Tag Archives: Petra

Egypt and Jordan – Day 18- Feb 19, 2026


Well yesterday was Amazing – between the Treasury, the Royal Tombs and the insanely beautiful Siq – Petra was clearly worth the trip.

But now we’re heading out. Again it’s an early start – but since I managed to look at the map, and realize how far we are down South in Jordan – I’m not surprised. It’s early because we have a very LONG way to go.

But first an aside. We all know that Moses spent 40 years wandering the desert, but unfortuately – he didn’t leave a map of his journey. So there are countless places in Jordan that assure tourists that “Moses Slept Here”.

In fact – the town that we spent the night is in is called Wadi Musa – Valley of Moses. And there are apparently endless number of towns with similar names – the idea is that this is where Moses struck the stone that got him in so much trouble – he was supposed to ‘Speak’ to it – not ‘Hit’ it!

Osama tells us that while we could visit some of these towns – it’s rather fruitless – there’s no evidence to suggest exactly where this happened – but we are very sure where Moses went up the mountain to get his peak at the Promised Land before he died – and that is Mount Nebo.

Osama told us the first day that he rates toliet stops – from 1 to 5 stars, with 6 stars reserved for the really over the top options. And we have a 5 star version at the halfway point of our trip North to Mount Nebo.

It turns out that this is exactly the same place we stopped on the way from the airport to Petra – and it does deserve the 5 star label. Lovely bathroom. But more importantly to me – it also has really really good Coffee.

Victor and I managed not to get coffee before the bus pulled out of Wadi Musa – and I’m feeling the need for some caffine – and this lovely bathroom/Coffee Shop fits the bill. Yum.

Not surprisingly but reminding me strongly of those gift shops in Disney World that you have to walk thru when you exit a ride – to get to the toilets from the front door you have to walk the sales option guantlet.

The trick – don’t touch anything. If you even stroke a rug, or finger a gold plated dish, or pick-up a figurine – a salesman will appear like a geni out of a lamp. It’s Jordan, not Egypt – so they are very polite – but very present. You touched – you must want to buy. So moral – don’t touch. Walk straight to the toliet (and it is 5 stars – which means it’s clean, there is a seat on the toilet, the flush works – and – the best part – there’s toliet paper. And they don’t even charge!), do what you need to do – and walk straight back out.

I had to detour for my coffee – but that didn’t set off the sales team. It’s when I touched a lambs fur coat wondering who would wear such a thing here in Jordan – where in the dead of winter it gets down to say 70 degrees – or maybe even a frightening – don’t let the kids out – 50 degrees. Sigh – I touched – and had to tell the very cute, very pleasant salesman – I just wondered why anyone would buy such a thing.

Of course I led with “I’m sorry” – I am Canadian after all.

Back on the luxury bus – we continue to drive North – admiring the numerous small and mid-sized businesses along the way. They look modern, and busy. What a change from Egypt where the only ‘businesses’ we saw were run by the Military. I looked it up – apparently 75% of the GNP of Egypt is generated by Military related businesses – leaving the middle class in Egypt without work. Officially Egypt has a 6.1% unemployement rate – but that doesn’t seem correct when you see the number of men just hanging around. In Jordan – we haven’t seen unemployed men just ‘hanging’ – everyone – including the omni-present vendors – seems gainfully and in many cases rather joyfully employed. It’s a huge and obvious difference between the two countries. That and the garbage. Almost none in Jordan, and the garbage is piled deep in Egypt. But back to the bus ride.

Osama shows us how to put the red and white shemagh. This is a large square piece of cloth with a distinctive pattern and often seen with tassels on the corners. It is generally worn wrapped around the head and sometimes held in place by a black cord. It is considered a national symbol of Jordan, representing pride, heritage, and the Bedouin culture. Osama goes on to tell us that it is extremely popular in Jordan because King Hussein wore it, as does his son (the current King) and his grandson (the future king). Odessey bought one for each of us – and lots of us are sporting it today. I bet that’s why the lesson – we really had no idea how to tie it. I continue to wear it as a scarf. The last thing I want is a large cotton cloth wrapped around my head. How can this be cooler?

As we get closer to Amman, the traffic gets a bit more intense – and we start passing sheep and goat herders minding their flocks. Some are flocks are small, some flocks are a tad larger – but all the animals look very healthy – and there is lots of greenery for them to eat. Osama explains that Northern Jordan gets anywhere from 14” to 24” of rain a year – a very good thing since the only other sources of water are natural springs. Further North Jordan borders the Jordan River and of course the Dead Sea – but neither is a really good souce of fresh water. They rely on those springs and the rain.

On the top of all the houses and appartment buildings in Amman are white tanks for water. Once a week for 2 hours everyone gets their share of water from the springs and it is piped directly into those tanks. Then each home must ration the water for the week. If they run out – they will need to buy water (expensive) – or do without.

Osama is very proud of his country – and shares with us their medical success story. They have a free public heath system for all Jordanians – but there is a private health system that caters to folks from the other Gulf States. He thinks their medical system is 4 stars – and says – yes you might have to wait 30 minutes to see a Doctor – but the care is very good.

The compares incredibly favorably with what we learned of the Egyptian medical system where much much longer waits are the norm. And honestly – the difference in the appearance of the hospitals is remarkable. In Egypt they are older buildings with hundreds of folks standing around outside – simply waiting. In Jordan, the hospitals – public or private, are modern – and we never saw any waiting lines.

After our 4 hour ride – we arrive and Mount Nebo. Fortunately, we don’t have to climb it like 100+ year old Moses did. The bus drives us up and we are in a huge parking lot (I think they are expecting lots of visitors). There is a tiny museum, and then we are in the courtyard of a beautiful church. Osama takes us around the side – and there – directly across from the entrance to the church is the view of the Promised Land. It’s not terribly clear today – but we can easily see the top of the Dead Sea, and beyond it the hills and valleys of Isreal.

The symbol of this place is a staff with a serpent coiled around it – the universal sign of healing – and indeed my Doctor’s buttons (1812 Regency Period) feature exactly the same coiled snake.

Inside the Basilica of Moses there is a fabulous mosaic that was saved from the destruction of all images during the Iconoclasm in 754. The priest got word of what was happening to all the mosaics and painted icons and got the brilliant idea to save this mosaic by covering it up with sand and then having another mosaic with just simple patterns put on top.

Then folks seemed to have forgotten that the priest had made this happen – and the mosaic remained hidden until work was done on the church floor in the 1800’s.

Imagine their surprise!

The mosaic is simply stunningly beautiful. It tells the story of what life was like before and after the birth of Jesus. Before Jesus, man hunted animals freely – you can see the blood from a Lion being speared. Then there is a gap indicating the birth of Jesus, and the Mosaic afterwards shows a very different world. Animals and Man live in peace under the trees of peace – the Pomegrante and the Olive tree. There is even a very detailed image of two men, one white, one black. Independently they are both leading animals, a camel, a horse, an Ostrich. Osama uses that image to explain that he thinks there is room for everyone in the world.

Then he takes us to a place that actually makes Mosaics today. We go into the Mosaic’s workroom where 8 folks are seated carefully putting tiny stones one by one into a frame that will become the desired image.

Our host explains the technique. You start with the drawing of the finished design reversed onto a piece of cloth. The cloth is put into a frame that hold the cloth stiffly and the artist creates the design by using tweezers to pick up each stone, dip it into a paste of water and flour that is sticky, and then places the stone. Repeat again and again and again. It can take several months to create a really large, very small stone design like a tree of life, or only a hour to create a smaller design using larger stones. The stones are all Granite, gotten from folks who make kitchen counters and the like – left over pieces work just fine. Before the artists start, the large stones are cut into thin strips with a stone saw, and then the artists creates the smaller pieces using the same cutting tool I used when I was doing Stained Glass.

When the piece is done – you are looking at the back of the Mosaic, and it’s very bumpy since the pieces aren’t even close to exactly the same size. But that helps make the finished piece last. The next step has someone taking the finished art, spreading a really good glue layer on a proper frame, and then carefully flipping the art so the ‘top’ lines up within the frame.

Wait until the glue dries, then carefully remove the cloth by adding water to disolve the sticky layer. You reveal the Mosaic – right side up this time!

Our host explains that this workshop and the rug making workshop are all part of buisnesses started in Jordan by Queen Noor with Foreign help, primarly USAid. They are extremely proud of their connection to the US – and display the brand IDs of some of their sponsors. Because of their relationship with DHL – they can even provide free shipping. This is important because rugs and tables are very heavy!

Now we are led into their sales room. If you show any interest at all – a lovely sales person is quickly glued to your side. They work on commission of course – and we were quite taken with the young woman (single mother, 2 kids) who wants to help us pick something to send home.

Yeah – we folded. Come visit us in NOTL if you want to see what we bought.

We leave the shop – and finally enter Amman proper. It’s the capital of Jordan, and a much smaller city. But it is also a very very lovely city cascading as it does over 7 hills. I actually think that number is wrong – it’s more like 14 or more hills – but Osama defends their use of 7 by saying is a lucky number – like the 7 hills of Rome. So just let it go.

We are staying in a lovely Hyatt for 2 nights – and tonight we are on our own for dinner. There are options in the city and in the hotel – but Victor is still feeling under the weather, and I’m not exploring on my own – so we opt to just eat a quick dinner in the hotel lounge (steak sandwhich – I’m so happy).

Tonight is the first night of Ramadan. Osama explained this on our bus ride as well. The muslims follow the lunar calendar with no corrections – so Ramadan moves about 10 days a year. The start of Ramadan is determined by when the head Iman of each country sees the Cresent Moon – and it was overcast just a bit around the part of the sky where the moon would appear the first night we were in Jordan, so Ramadan didn’t start. It did start in Egypt and Saudi Arabia because their Imans could see the cresent moon. Jordan’s Iman only saw the Cresent moon the night before – so today was the first day of Ramadan.

When we drove thru the city of Amman – I saw crowds of men buying what appeared to be pancakes from bakeries. I asked Osama and he confirmed my guess – these pancakes are special for Ramadan. Naturally – I want to try some.

He’s going to see what he can do tomorrow. He’s also going to try to get Victor and I into a proper grocery store. We love walking the aisles of a grocery store – so I’ve definitely got my hopes up for tomorrow.

Tonight it’s that Steak Sandwich and bed. How can riding all day in a bus tired you out so much? Mystery to me.

Signing off – the Soup Lady

Egypt and Jordan – Day 17 – Feb 18, 2026


Petra! I can’t believe it. I’ve been dreaming of going to Petra forever – long before Indiana Jones made the Treasury famous in the Movie.

And now, finally – I’m going to do it! I’m completely excited, thrilled, and a bit nervous about the walk. But hey – I climbed into and up the Great Pyramid – I can do anything.

Unfortunately, Victor wakes up feeling very poorly and tells me that he’s rolling over and going back to sleep. I tell him – it’s Petra! You sure. He’s sure. So I go down to the lobby and explain to Osama that Victor’s not coming. He insists on calling up to the room to explain that Victor can take the cart option – but Victor says no – but thanks. He’s going back to sleep.

We walk across the road, Osama explains the layout of the Park – and then tells us that he plans on doing the walk very slowly, timing it so we get to the Treasury when the sun hits the face perfectly. I’m relieved. A nice slow walk – that I can do.

There are other options of course – some folks jog down as fast as possible. Other folks take a cart. And there’s even a horse riding option. Osama makes sure that no one wants the other options – and that folks know that it’s really easy to just do the carts back in case they get tired.

I’m not sure at this point that I realized that the Treasury isn’t actually in ‘Petra’ the city. It’s part of the Petra Momument of course – but it’s 1/2 way to the city. You must walk another mile and 1/2 to get to the city itself – and that’s where we’re having lunch. So basically it’s 3 miles down and 3 miles back from our lunch stop.

Completely innocently – I follow the leaders down the gravel, but relatively flat path past vendors (1 dinar – just 1 dinar), past folks hustling for horseback rides (want ride – horse ride), and past incredible views. Then we arrive at the entrance to The Siq – the canyon of the moon as per Indiana Jones. There’s a flat part, some bathrooms – and about 12 Roman Reactors! They do a quick formation march – then stand at attention as we walk down into the Siq.

As promised, Osama takes it slowly. He points out the elaborate water system that provided the city with water from springs up in the surrounding mountains, the dams that are part of that watering system, and a place where there’s a carving, now very eroded of a Roman (based on the Toga he’s wearing) leading several Camels. Once pointed out – you can’t miss it.

The pass thru the red rock canyons – colored magnificantly by nature in Red, White, and Black – curves and winds. This was the way Camel teams – 100 camels long – would get into Petra. Their goal – as ours is now – was the city. It’s an Oasis in the middle of the desert – right on the crossing of numerous trade routes North, East, and West.

Pictures simply do not do it justice.

Nah – not good enough. It is absolutely the most amazing thing.

And it’s not just the Treasury – although that’s staggeringly beautiful. There is so much more. Some of it easy to get to, some of it a lot more challenging. For example – there’s the Monastery – so named because folks who originally lived in the Siq and knew no archology – didn’t realize it was a tomb. Ed and Todd galloped up and down the 900+ steps, and could easily have done more. Me – not a chance!

Compared to the Tombs and Temples of Egypt, the city of Petra is relatively young – only about 2300 years old, compared to 4000 to 5000 years for the Egyptian Monuments – but the beauty can’t be understated.

It was a popular spot for 270 years (170 BC to 106 AD) for Camel Carvans because it had water year round. And it had water year round in the middle of a desert with maybe 14” of rain a year because the Nabataeans – a Bedouin Tribe out of Saudi Arabia – were amazing water engineers. They managed to get so much water to flow year round into the city that the Romans when they took over the city actually built a Nymphaeum, a quite elaborate public fountain.

In addition to the basic 3 mile walk – from the Entrance to the Treasury and on to the city of Petra itself, I’m considering a slight detour. It’s an easier walk amoung the options – up to what are called the Royal Tombs – although there are no records of any Royal folks living here. Then my phone bings – I get a message from Victor to let me know he’s feeling a lot better.

Osama says – we’ll do lunch down here as planned – it’s a magnificant buffet of Egyptian delights, you will love it. Then I’ll go back, pick him up and take him down to the Treasury in a cart. Odessey has already paid for the ticket so it’s just the cost of the cart extra. Naturally – I’ll go with Osama – and that means everyone else is on their own after lunch.

Plan made – I let Victor know that Osama and I will pick him up at around 3:00 to go see the Treasury.

After a deliciou lunch I hoof it back up the path (yes – 3 MORE miles) from the city of Petra, past the Royal Tombs, Past the Treasury and up, up, up to the Monument exit. Meanwhile Osama gets everyone else organized and then probably runs up to the Exit. Sigh – Oh to be young again.

I stumble back into our hotel room at 2:15 – quite proud of myself if a bit sore, and when Osama calls us at 2:30 PM – he’s ready to head back down – both Victor and I are ready to go. We enter the park again, and thank goodness – this time we are taking a cart down to the Treasury. I’m not at all sure I had another 3 miles in me. Victor admires the carving, the colors of the rocks, and some of the additional carvings, and then we take a cart back up the hill.

In addition to the expected hustle of ‘ride my camel’ – we are treated to a wonderful display of tourists behaving badly. To take the cart back – you have to line up and wait your turn. On large group of about 8 tourists – with their guide – ignore the line and try to push their way ahead of folks – including Victor and I – who have been waiting our turn to get on a cart very politely. I’ve having none of that I tell you – so I explain to them – there’s a line – and they are NOT getting ahead of my husband’s trip back to the hotel. And they aren’t getting ahead of those people who were waiting with us – or that guy that was also lined up before they so rudely decided to stand on our right rather than wait their turn.

To applause from the other folks patiently waiting – we are seated in the next cart to make the journey back thru the canyon. On our way up – we spot at least 5 carts heading back down empty – I guess the word got to the Powers that Be that folks were getting unruly at the cart stop.

Victor goes back to our room to rest – I do the Petra Museum. It’s actually a lot larger than it looks and covers the entire history of this part of Jordan. As I enter the museum, I run into Andrea who tells me to be sure and see the introductory movie. It’s all about water – and how the Nabataeans ruled for 270 years because they understood how truly important it was!

Just FYI – (I had to look this up on a map) – Petra is in the middle South of Jordan – well below the end of the Dead Sea and about 1/2 way from the Dead Sea to the Red Sea. Definitely in the middle of the desert.

It’s easy to imagine 100 long camel carvans going up and down – destination Petra and water. The high period of Petra ended when the last of the Kings died without an heir and the Romans decided they would rule Petra.

Fortunately – they improved, not destroyed the carvings in the soft Limestone done by the Nabataeans. But they did force them to stop carving tombs, and eventually they were absorbed into the Roman culture. In the city of Petra there are huge Roman ruins including a giant Temple which had it’s own swimming pool and garden, a multi-story building, traditional entrance arches, and of course the Nymphaeum.

I suspect that the Siq even impressed the Romans as they didn’t really widen it – but left it as this magnificant entry way into another world.

Dinner is a group affair – more mezze for me – and we are fairly early to bed. Thank goodnes. My watch is very proud of me – I did over 24,000 steps – and I’m pretty well done in. I just hope Victor continues to feel better in the morning.

Signing off to pass out – the Soup Lady