Category Archives: Road Trip

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 2


It’s another glorious sunrise – I just love my room, now that I’ve had a chance to actually look at it. King Bed, tons of space, private bathroom with a lovely shower and for some reason a bucket in the shower with a small scoop.

When we gather to meet our driver – this time I get his name – Diplip – which means King – I ask and am told – that’s if you don’t want to use either the shower head or the hand held. Oh. Or – you can use it for washing your clothes. Oh again.

This time we have agreed to meet earlier – 5:30 – because we’re going to drive an hour (this I didn’t know until we did it) to another entrance to the Park. We’re told that this entrance is less frequently used – and we should have the park to ourselves.

Today is Sunday – and it’s 5-30 AM – and we are the only car on the road. Everyone else who is moving around – and there aren’t very many people about yet – are either walking, setting up shop, riding bicycles or riding in Tuk-Tuks. The roads aren’t crowded – in fact – they are so quiet that the driving danger comes not from the Tuk-Tuks but from the small mostly black goats. Apparently they think they own the road and stand, walk or sit on it. In large groups of maybe 7, or as individuals. And Diplip just casually steers the jeep around the groups, acting as if this is completely normal.

I suspect it is normal.

Half of the road is brilliantly paved, flat and lovely, half of the distance to the entrance is potholed and Diplip has to serve from side to side – not only to avoid the goats – but to avoid the worst of the potholes.

I smile and wave at everyone. I figure – if they smile back – it will be good day. And it’s a brilliant day. At least half of the people smile back and wave too. Not just the kids – but adults as well. I’m not sure if they are just shocked to see folks like us up and around so early – or if a crazy white lady in a Tiley Hat waving madly seems like something worth a smile. But it works!

We get to the entrance, pick up an armed guard after some discussion – I think so few folks use this entrance that they are amazed we actually went to go in – who again has a rusted rifle – and we head into the park.

The good news is- there are no other tourists. The bad news – there are no animals either.

A very disappointing Safari.

We eventually give up – repeat our hour drive back to the Musa Jungle Retreat – and get to eat breakfast/brunch.

The vote is to NOT repeat that trip – this afternoon we’re going back to the main entrance and just deal with the crowds.

To make up for the disappointing morning – this afternoon is amazing. We finally find the Elephants – and gets some great shots. There are two kinds of Elephants in the park – Domestic and Wild. They look just alike to me – except the Domestic ones have chains around one of their ankles. The guards ride them during their patrols of the Park, or use them to do heavy lifting when trees fall down and block the jeep paths.

Speaking of the guards – there are guard posts located all thru the park. These are ‘man caves’ where the guards live during their ‘duty’ weeks. And they are what you’d expect from a ‘man cave’ with no running water except from a well, outdoor toilets used only by guys (nope – I didn’t go it – Helmut checked), and a fire pit for cooking.

But the guards are so proud of their post. When they are in their kaki uniforms they look quite dashing – but often we spot them in more casual wear. These guard posts are their homes!

We spot more birds. There is a tree I call the Tree of Life that sports 2 Peacocks, an Elephant at the base, and countless other birds in the branches. It is stunningly beautiful.

We hang around a lake/pond for a while – just clicking away at the lovely reflections – and Abi gleefully identifies all the different birds we see and hear.

As the Sun starts to set – we head back – to find our way blocked by a family of 5 elephants! Mom and what we eventually decide is also Mom, and 3 juveniles of decreasing age. The pose for pictures coming straight at us – and Diplip slowly and oh so casually backs up the jeep to avoid them charging us. They continue to ‘follow’ us – and Diplip continues our retreat until they get bored with the game and turn off to much some particularly yummy grass.

Whew! Diplip puts the gear into forward and we slowly drive around the group, staying on the road as required.

30 minutes of bumpy path back to the gate in the dark with only our headlights to see the way – then home to the Musa Jungle Retreat.

Dinner at 6:30 – my butter chicken, and a real treat called Smoked Chicken and Pineapple that we all agree is totally delicious. Abi introduces us to some of his friends (fellow tour guides that he’s grown up with), and the manager of the Musa Jungle Retreat joins us for a bit to ask if we are having a good time.

I feel like a very important – but very tired person.

Helmut’s watch reports that he’s walked 16,000 steps today. That’s what that bumpy road apparently means to our Apple Watches!

Home – bed – and another early morning tomorrow.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 1


Today starts off bright and early! 6:00 AM and the sun is just starting to rise. As asked – we gather at the reception area of the resort, are greeted by Abi, and load up our personal 4×4 Jeep.

The lovely driver will be with us for the next 3 days – so today is a ‘getting used to the tourists’ day for him and ‘getting comfy with our cameras’ for us.e

Our transport is an open air jeep with three rows of 2 seats each. First row is for the driver on the right side, and there is a passenger seat on the left.

Helmut opts for the middle seat – behind the driver on the right – Andrea wants to sit in the back next to Abi, and the passenger seat is reserved for the park employee who is tasked with keeping us safe.

He is carrying a rifle. I’d feel a lot safer if the rifle weren’t rusted, and looks like it dates back to the days of British control of India. But Abi explains that the guard is just there to fire the gun if an animal attacks – not to actually hit the animal. The noise will scare them off.

We’re talking tigers and leopards and Rhinosaurs here.. and Elephants. There is no roof to our 4×4 jeep – and as our driver says – it’s seen better days. Lots better. Maybe better years. Maybe 30 years…

But we are not here to worry about the luxury of our travel – we’re here to see animals.

As with Safari’s I’ve taken in Africa – you get up early, return for breakfast/brunch, rest for a few hours, then go out again in the evening – and that’s the plan here as well.

Our ‘retreat’ is just around the corner from the entrance to the Park, and at 6:00 there’s no traffic. So we zip out, and are quickly at the entrance.

Our fees have been pre-paid, so we are simply waved in – and Abi directs the driver as to which path to take. The roads in the park (and you aren’t allowed to drive off road like we did in Kenya) are poorly maintained and very rutted – so I have to brace my knee against the metal door frame. It’s actually not uncomfortable. But to take photos – I generally need to stand on the seat – which means taking off my shoes!

Today we spent quite some time taking pictures of monkeys – they aren’t spoiled brats like the ones in Bali who will attack you – these guys are simply adorable. Doing their things in a monkey way. I got some great shots.

We also passed a very touristy Elephant Ride activity – but in the morning haze – the pictures looks awesome.

Abi is a bird fiend – and we stop time and time again for him to identify and get us to see (trust me – the latter was the hard part) – bird after bird after bird.

We wind up actually in Butan. There is a National Park in Butan that shares a long border but only one entrance with the Manas National Park. We pose for pictures at the border, but can’t cross – there’s a lot of paper work involved for non- Indians.

Eventually it’s home for lunch and a break – then back on the road again. This time we score an Elephant family (Mom, Dad, Junior) who pose for pictures for at least an hour. We also take a photo of a lovely butterfly, some other birds, and then end up at sunset in a grassland area with a stunning sky and wonderful trees. I go snap happy!

Then we spot a guard tower (these are all over the park – and free to climb) – and see a herd of Guar headed our way. Yup – they have two kinds of buffalo here in the Manas Park. These giants have white socks on all 4 legs, and smaller horns then the true buffalo of India. Their horns curl out and up and they are generally found in herds.

They move closer and closer until they are just maybe 30 feet away. Our guard is not happy that they are this close – but clearly we have parked the Jeep where they think they should be walking. We take pictures – say good bye to the guard house and the Guar – and head home.

The rutted roads of the Park taken at speed feel like those exercise machines that jiggled you to take off wait – and it’s about 40 minutes in the dark to the park gate. My watch asks if I want to record my outdoor walk!

An early night. Can you believe it.

I’m so happy I can’t stand it.

For dinner I order Onion Pakora – and a Ginger Soup. Abi thinks I’m starving myself – so under pressure I add Butter Chicken and Rice.

We have WAY too much food. The Butter Chicken goes back to the kitchen to keep for dinner the next night – and I gleefully scarf down the best onion Pakoras I’ve ever eaten.

It’s bed time – I’m done. I transfer my pictures to my ipad, plug in my batteries to charge.. and drop.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Emirates First Class KICKS ASS!


I have clearly been double blessed – when I booked this trip – I knew I would need to have a lay flat bed in order to sleep. 36 hours of travel is no joke.

But I was clearly unaware of what Emirates First Class is really, really like.

I left you at the Emirates First Class Lounge – Sushi Bar, tons of pastry options – service upon service. I just glazed in wonder, enjoyed the feel of luxury (and those that know me know that I do enjoy the feel of over the top luxury.. ) and gathered my stuff to find my friends.

Helmut and Andrea were to meet me at Gate B12 – where the flight for Kolkata would be departing, and I knew they’d wonder if I was delayed. In hindsight – taking some ‘take-out’ for them would have been the best plan – but nope – I didn’t think about that. Next time, more smarter!

I got just a bit lost trying to get out of the lounge, past the insanely huge Business class Emirates lounge, and managed to end up in a dead end. This is a HUGE airport. Ok – no problem. I’ll backtrack – return to the First Class lounge and start again. This time I do better – and find the escalator down before walking the length of that HUGE Business Lounge. I finally get to Gate B12 and it’s packed – wall to wall, ceiling to floor – people. Every chair is taken – and the folks waiting are now flooding past the boundaries of the gate and flowing to both side gates.

Ok – I’ll just go slowly. I walk past the mobs – noting the huge group of folks – men and women, mostly older – dressed in white and wearing Name tags. Clearly a group of some kind.. I did ask – and they are pilgrims returning from Mecca. Right – this is the flight to India!

I round a corner – and there’s Helmut – engrossed in his cell phone – I cough gently in my absolutely horrid German – say – do you speak German? He looks up curiously – recognizes me and Smiles broadly! Since he is still recovering from breaking his hip and left leg in multiple places – I insist he stay down and give him a big hug.

We chat a bit longer, they had just arrived (whew – timing perfect) – and then Andrea shows up. I realize that the crowd is getting thinner – and we mossy over to Gate B12. As First Class – I have a private check-in counter – but then everyone regroups downstairs in a larger waiting area. I save seats for Helmut and Andrea, they arrive – we chat – and then they start boarding the flight. I say goodbye – see you in Kolkata!

There are two jet-ways – one for First and Business Class passengers – one for the great unwashed. As per the gal in the Exotic Marigold Hotel, I get to turn left.

I wait while the folks in front of me in line get seated, and present myself at the entrance to the plane – and hand my ticket to the host on duty. He smiles broadly at me – welcomes me – and then leaves his post to walk me to my Suite.

Suite? Are you kidding me? I have a Suite? With a double doors and everything!

OMG

I’m repeating that – OMG.

This is so over the top even I’m amazed. It’s like that scene in Crazy Rich Asians when they are brought to their suite on the plane – and the gal jokes – these PJs are better than the ones I own at home.

And dutifully Michael – my new best friend and the host – asks my size and presents me with PJ’s.

The seat is a leather wonder with buttons and gizmos aplenty – there is a pop=up personal bar with water selections, there is a vanity space with what is described to me as lavender spray to make sure I sleep well among other delights. There is a goodie basket with snacks including 75% Dark Chocolate bars. There are a selection of seasoned nuts in little glass jars, there is a pillow – a MATTRESS – and of course a duvet.

Michael presents me with the menu – takes my order for breakfast – and then we discuss my alcohol options. I’m going for the Sauterne. Then I explains that I’m beyond exhausted and really just want to sleep. Can I delay breakfast until we are close to arriving in Kolkata. Of course my wish is his command – but he insists on showing off his skill at pouring Arabic coffee – which I politely taste and then get ready for take-off.

Once off the ground – I ask to have the bed made – and am blown away – again! The bed is a narrow strip of non-soft material barely wide enough for my hips – it’s a full sized twin – with a cozy mattress – that lovely duvet, a soft pillow – and slippers! And an eye mask of course.

I nestle down for the best sleep I’ve ever had on an airplane – and am woken by a gentle nap on the door. My suite has a door! Right. I remember that!

They serve me a lovely breakfast – shower me with more gifts – will this never stop – and then tell me to prep for landing.

To leave the plane with all my gifts – they give me a shopping bag to put stuff in, explaining that it’s really great quality and worth keeping. Gifts include a full size bottle of Bvlgari Perfume, too numerous to spell out other signature gifts, a lovely gold tote to hold all of them, neatly sized to fit into my carry bag – plus gifts of more sweets in honor of Duvali – the Hindu Festival of lights. My shopping bag is so heavy – I’m worried about getting stopped when I board the next flight!

I have been seriously spoiled. It will be horrid to have to tolerate the garbage that Air Canada calls First Class.

Heading off to find Helmut and Andrea – our real adventure is just beginning!

Signing off – The over-the top, that’s amazing – incredibly spoiled – Soup Lady!

*** Stop the Presses ***


OMG – there’s an even MORE beautiful first class lounge!

The Dubai airport is divided into three interconnected buildings – reasonably called A, B, And C. Very creative, right?

Anyway – I was in C – stayed and ate in the first class lounge there. Then following the directions of the lovely host of the lounge – made my slow way to B concourse – and the B version of the first class Emirates Lounge.

It’s about 10 times the size of the one I was in – has a Pizza oven section, a SPA! (You have to be kidding me), Showers, and – this really stopped me – A Sushi Bar with Sushi Chefs. Plus a standard for the Emirates huge buffet with various dishes, and yet again another dessert selection.

All the folks cooking sport tall, tall, tall Toque Blanche – or white hats. And one section of the lounge actually lets you walk past the kitchens – all stainless, all spotless clean at almost midnight – and with the staff cheerfully saying good night to each other.

The lounge also has fountains at the entrance. Huge fountains. Check out my picture – clearly it’s the Soup Lady on the Prowl!

The Soup Lady after 30 hours of travel – in the First Class Lounge Dubai

And here’s something I didn’t mention earlier – there are at least 2 five star hotels IN the airport. I mean the front desks are right off Concourse C and B – and the hotel rooms overlook the Concourse. I’m reminded of those huge 5,000+ passenger cruise ships where some folks pick the rooms looking over the center part of the ship. Who wants to see water when on a cruise ship anyway?

The hotels are designed to look different from the concourse architecture – one featuring Moroccan influenced arches, the other a unique facade. Beautiful. And my walk from C to B was filled with more neon flashing. And another two Duty Free Shops.

You have GOT to be kidding me.

And the ladies bathroom have sections for folks to wash their feet before services. That is definitely not something I’ve ever seen in North America.

This time – I’m really signing off.

Next stop Kalkata, India – which if all goes to plan will consist of us being picked up at the airport and driven to another airport to fly to another city to drive to our first Safari Park!

Yes – I’m exhausted just typing all that.

The Soup Lady

Emirates First Class Lounge in Dubai


I have died and gone to heaven! This place is insanely beautiful – not just the lounge which puts many of the fancy restaurants I’ve enjoyed over the years to shame – but the airport here in Dubai itself is worth seeing to believe!

I’m reminded of the line from the Movie “Crazy Rich Aliens” when they arrive in Singapore and the heroine quips – all JFK has is Salmonella and Despair.

This airport definitely rivals the one in Bali for sheer beauty. There are huge – like 60’ high – Palm trees growing inside the atrium of the Airport Walkways.

And there is the largest Duty-free shop I’ve ever seen. Plus more neon than in some areas of Tokyo. (Those of you who have been to Tokyo know what area I’m talking about…)

So how did a 76 year old traveling grannie – who admittedly tends to travel on the cheap side – end up sitting in this lovely lounge enjoying – get this – a Wagu Burger and fresh French fries?

Let’s start at the beginning – Many years ago we did a ‘cheap’ safari in Africa which emphasized camping outdoors in the game parks. I didn’t see nearly as many animals as I’d have liked – but we made good friends with a couple from Bavaria! And we’ve stayed friends over the years.

Our Bavarian Mates come from Munich – and over the years have teased us with their enthusiasm for wild and crazy travel. They are also very good friends!

So in May 2024 – when they told us they had planned a trip to India (a Safari to see Tigers, Red Pandas, and Rhinoceros) – I asked if I could tag along. Victor wasn’t the least bit interested – but I was totally determined to take on this unique challenge. Consider – at 76 – how many more times will I be willing/able to take on a 36 hr air flight – do homestays in a country that requires a lot of vaccines – and is often described as noisy and crowded and smelly.

And if your next thought is why would I want to – you are in the same mind as my husband! Even the Intrepid Traveler has no interest.

So here I am – part way thru my 36 hour flight to Kolkata. My Bavarian friends are also flying into Dubai from Munich – so we will meet at the gate to the Emirates flight to Kolkata.

Now you know why I’m sitting and waiting – but not why I’m doing it first class.

I have only flown first class once before in my life – and it was under similar circumstances. Neither Victor nor The Intrepid Traveler was coming along, I was joining friends in Bali – and the flight was in the 36 hr range. I figured the difference in price between economy and first class was just $20 an hour – and I was so WORTH it!

The same is true this time. The differential wasn’t that great – not when you thought of it per hour – and because I was going to have 2 long waits in airports (Toronto and Dubai) – Going first class sounded more than reasonable. It sounded like a deal!

The flight from Toronto to Dubai was on Air Canada – and while I enjoyed the service and the lay flat beds – I wouldn’t rate the experience as 5 star. The ‘Maple Leaf Lounge’ in the Toronto airport had mediocre food at best – my ‘dinner’ was Nachos with Pico de Gallo and shredded cold cheddar. It was food. And I ate it. The only desert options were cookies – chocolate chocolate chip and white chocolate with Macadamia nuts. They were my favorite part of the meal.

Food even in first class wasn’t that good either, I’m sorry to report. Waste of calories to be honest. I ate what I had to be sure my stomach wasn’t growling, but it was hardly memorable. Or maybe it was truly memorable in how deplorable it was.

Highlights – the fresh oranges in the fruit basket available near the service area. Those were indeed yummy. And the big TV to watch movies was quite a nice touch. But storage was non-existent, and because I’m so short – reaching the Touch Screen TV to change movies wasn’t easy. At least the headphones they gave us were noise cancelling. That was a nice touch.

On the other hand – the Emirates Lounges here in the Dubai Airport – and I visited two – were awesomely beautiful. The first one was the business class version – described by the hostess as smaller than the similar one in the B terminal. I think I need to check out that one – I thought the one I was in was huge. There was a vast display of food options – cold, hot, room temperature, an ice cream trolley with 8 different flavours and 4 types of cones, an entire desert display, and around a corner – another section with Indian specialities like Samosas.

A full pour it yourself Bar – plus bottles of several different wines were available.

I was just settled into the Business class Lounge when the hostess came up to tell me I was in the wrong place. I should be in the much much nicer First class lounge. And she helped me gather my things and walked me across the concourse.

Wow – This lounge is truly special – and I don’t blame her for saying – it was much nicer. It’s smaller, with a specific dining area – with get this – service! And the food is prepared to order! Wow. In an airport lounge. And the menu goes on and on for several pages. So many choices.

I opted for the Wagu Burger because I know I won’t seeing Beef for the next two weeks. Get it while I can I figure! And it was delicious. A huge portion I couldn’t finish – although I gave it my best effort. Easily the tastiest food I’ve had since leaving home!

Time for desert – there’s a lovely desert selection – and of course Ice cream. I’m having macaroons – and Pistachio Ice Cream.

Then it’s on to my gate, my friends (I hope), and my flight to Kolkata!

Signing off to gather and walk on – The Soup Lady

Days 8 and 9 – the journey Home


Sunday morning we must all say good-bye – take our last pictures of the Ranch – and start the drive back to Albuquerque and from there home.

All goes well. We return my rental car, (an incredible bargain of $107 US for 7 days rental) and jump into Carrie’s car and drive into Old Albuquerque- it’s a large area around a beautiful square that features restaurants and art shops and junk emporiums. Something for everyone.

We grab lunch at “The Old Time Cafe” – best bear claw ever – then wander from shop to shop. Eventually the heat gets to us and we decide to head back to the hotel for a nap before dinner.

Dinner at Applebee’s is as expected – but I enjoyed my rib steak (oh meat, how much I’ve missed you) and ate every dribble.

Back to the hotel – I say good night to my new friends and head off to bed.

My flight is at 6:00 AM and that means up at 3:00 AM to catch the 3:30 shuttle to the airport. I know – probably a bit of overkill – but I hate having to rush thru these things.

Needless to say – I don’t sleep.

Finally it’s 3:00 – I’m up, I’m dressed, I’m downstairs. The shuttle arrives – no issues – next stop the airport.

Check in, pass security – boring wait for the plane to Dallas to board – fly to Dallas, another long drag to the next gate. Just FYI – Dallas is a huge airport. Again nothing exciting to report – until I get a call from my husband.

He’s got a cold and doesn’t feel great – should he meet me at the airport, or do I take a taxi home?

I ask – did you get a COVID test. He says – not yet – on it.

He has COVID. I’m Not going home. I can’t risk getting sick. He has maybe a tough day – I get a tough month! So NO WAY am I going home.

Bummer.

What to do, what to do. A hotel say is so pricy – but I do have friends. I call the Intrepid traveler – and she immediately invites me to stay with her until Victor tests Negative.

Thank goodness for FRIENDS!

So I arrive in Montreal, I take a taxi to our house, my husband wears a mask, we stay 10’ apart and chat a bit – then I grab the car and drive to my friends home.

Crazy ending to a crazy adventure right?

It’s now 3 days later – Victor is feeling fine and testing negative and I’m home. Finally.

I’m so glad I’m home – I could kiss the floors but I think I’m just going to hug my husband and my bed!

End of an exciting adventure.. I’m not ready today for any more travel. I need at least 2 days off!

Signing off until my next adventure (how does a safari in India sound?)

The Soup Lady

Day 1 at an Artist Retreat


I’m at a ranch near Santa Fe, New Mexico with a group of 7 other women on an art retreat.

For me – That is one truly wierd sentence. For starters – I can’t remember ever being with a group of only women before in my life. I’ve been just 2 or 3 with just women – when my sisters and I travel together without our sig others – and when I travel with the Intrepid Traveler – but 8 women. Just Women. First time.

Point 2 – It’s a ‘Art Retreat’. I knew I wanted to do a yoga retreat, and I’ve definitely done Bridge regionals and nationals – which I suppose are rather ‘retreat like’ in that you focus on one activity – but Art. Really? Nothing but Art? I mean – I love doing Art – but just Art… maybe that’s why I’m blogging – a retreat from an Art Retreat.

Am I over thinking this?

Yesterday was my travel day. I woke at 3:00 AM in a hotel near the Toronto Airport having eaten a lovely dinner the night before with my husband. We said our good-byes before bed – knowing that I had to be at the airport so very early it wasn’t a good plan to wake him up.

So – I’m up, I didn’t do my Yoga – hard to do that without disturbing my husband, and got dressed in the dark. I had mostly prepared the night before – so it went quickly – and I’m pretty sure I didn’t forget anything.

The trip to the airport in the shuttle was painless – but surprisingly crowded. Lots of airline crew starting their days – and a few other travellers. My fellow voyagers are clearly Japanese heading home. Neatly dressed, with their suitcases carefully over-wrapped in flashy cover-ups to make them easy to spot on the carrousels. Organized travellers. In comparison I feel like a flake – a very senior hippy heading out to see the world.

My ‘Safari bag’ suitcase is a hold-over from our first trip to Africa. Soft sided, but with wheels, it’s easy to over fill, and has no structure. So I’ve put in all my paints and art supplies – including the 10 canvases I’m hoping will be filled with art on my way back home. Right now they are white and unprepared – Full of potential – but very empty.

The airports were airports – large, packed with people with very specific destinations – and busy. The trip itself, while long, was uneventful. Not Adventure travel, unless you count arriving at my connecting flight just as they called my group # to board! I think that’s just great timing. I will admit I wondered if my big suitcase packed with the art supplies would make the connection – just 50 minutes, and Dallas is a huge airport – but yup – it was safely riding around in Baggage Claim in Albuquerque.

Getting the rental car was super easy. There are clear signs to ‘Rental Cars’ near Baggage Claim – and they have just one bus that takes all folks picking up Rental Cars to an off the airport Rental Car Building. Go right for one group of agencies, go left for the other. Hard to get lost – easy to find your agency!

Got my car – a small SUV – that to my eyes looks like a huge truck. And drives like one too! The agent proudly explained that it was a 2024 model – one of the newest they had on the lot. Hmmm.

I’ll grant you it was huge – although when Char (76) and Carol (58) and I put all out luggage in – we had to use the 4th seat for extra storage. I think the issue is all the art supplies. We all were told to come prepare to paint not shop – and it’s hard to judge what you’ll need. Just picking the colors is a challenge – what works in Montreal might not be appealing to paint with in Santa Fe. The light is different, the air is different – and I think the colors will be very different. We shall see.

We meet up with Carrie (1/4 Cherokee and 79) and Dee (my age, 4’11” and super nice) – and agree to follow them as we head out to the Turquoise Road – a scenic bypass between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Painless trip – broken up by stopping for lunch at a decrepit looking old Coal Mining town that has been turned into a terribly cutesy Western themed Art community.

We all agree that the wide-open spaces around us are both lovely, and conducive to folks doing big sculpture. We pass several ‘art studios’ that feature old car frames that have been repurposed into ‘art’. Some painted, some left to continue rusting. There’s even an Origami Garden with the largest Metal Origami structures I’ve ever seen. They tower over the landscape looking like huge folding paper Birds and Horses. Unfortunately – it’s closed, and we can only peak in from the entrance.

We chat over lunch – I learn that Carol is Gluten Free – and suffers badly if she even eats the tiniest bit of Gluten, and Dee has a dairy free diet that it turns out to include all Cheese made with goat, sheep or cow milk. Well – I knew that – but the folks at the ranch did not – and they had carefully added cheese to both the salad and the ‘Gratin’ dish at dinner time. I know – dealing with ‘food issues’ isn’t fun – but hey, at least we are all getting better at saying ‘No’ – rather then eating and suffering, or not eating and just pushing the food around the plate to make it look like we ate.

The Ranch is a 10 acre field with a large low adobe building forming the main ranch house, and a heavily renovated ‘barn’ acting as the home of the hosts. We have the entire run of the place – all rooms are huge – all the furniture is huge and well worn – and there are tons of ‘spaces’ where folks can gather or be alone. I like it.

My room is a small suite. Huge bedroom with lots of storage spots but not much furniture and a mini-kitchen/desk area. Bathroom too. I have windows on 2 sides – one with a lovely view of the sunrise – that I admired greatly while writing this post, and one leading to a ‘private’ porch with a hammock I shall never use.

After getting our gear into our rooms – I help move the suitcases of several of the other guests – who thought that at 76 I’d be the strongest… (Thank you Mona) – then we gather for a quick chat and orientation.

We play a name game – which clearly didn’t help me because I’ve forgotten names already – but I’m going to write them down over breakfast so I get them right in the blog.

We spend time introducing our selves, and describing where we are ‘art’ wise. Outside of Tabatha (58) – our leader – Cat (68) and Xan (54 and the youngest) are the only ones actually making a living from doing ‘art’. Char explains that she is a newbie – but learning constantly, Xan is a friend of Tabatha – and has been doing art for a long time – although I don’t think she makes a living painting – it’s creating jewelry that she sells on line that provides some income.

Some of the women are married – although for all of us – while our husbands support our desire to do ‘art’ – they didn’t come on the retreat. Most of the women are single and unattached. Two never had kids, One has only one daughter who at 24 is still living at home and has health issues.

After dinner there is more chatting until I excuse myself. I’m way past my expiry date… I need to wind down, straighten my room and go to bed.

Signing off to do Yoga – eat Breakfast – record names – and start painting…

The Soup Lady

Crazy Month – July 2023


In the planning – the summer of 2023 started out boring!

We had a blank slate – no plans, nothing doing. So we decided it might be a really good idea to spend a month in Niagara on the Lake. That’s a small town near Niagara Falls – known for it’s summer Shaw Festival, and lots of period correct (for us) re-enactments at Fort George.

So It made a lot of sense – we’d get a change to see what it would be like to live in Ontario – and we could check out that part of Ontario. Win-Win. And my sister and my brother-in-law would gleefully join us for a Shaw Festival/Stratford Play-a-ton!

And our friend Sonia could join us. This would be awesome.

Then we thought – gee – maybe it would be great to spend some time on the beach in Wells. And then a friend asked me to join him at the Chicago Bridge National. So I said Yes and Yes.

Then my grand-daughter and aspiring Actress/Singer Sophie decided she would love to go to the 2 week long Stratford Shakespeare Camp. And – Grannie and Grandpa – how about I join you in Maine…

Great stuff Sophie – always take advantage of any time older grand-kids are willing to spend time – and at 16 going on 17 – how many more summers will she want to spend with us? It’s the countdown that all Grannies face.

So our boring summer turned into anything but boring! We’d start in late June on the Beach in Wells with Sophie, then Victor and Sophie would drive to Cape Vincent for a Napoleonic Re-enactment while I hang out in Maine, Then the Sophie Shuffle. Her partners would drive to Cape Vincent and pick up Sophie, and Victor would drive back to Maine.

When our Maine holiday ended – Victor would drop me off in Boston at Logan to fly to Chicago for the Bridge tourney – and drive back to Montreal. Then on the next day, Victor would fly to Chicago – eat dinner with our buddy Todd – then fly home. I’d play bridge for the week, then fly to Toronto to meet Victor on our way to Stratford to pick up Sophie and drive back to Montreal.

Whew – you tired yet? I am just thinking about all this planning. And we haven’t even gotten to Niagara Yet.

Then we layer on a layer – a weekend re-enactment/Theatre experience in Montreal – some time to chat with friends – then the trip back to Ontario and Niagara;

Well – we’ve now done part 1. And it was – well interesting. Very weather dependant.

Maine had a lousy first two weeks. Rainy and Cold until it wasn’t. And we were 3 adults camping out in a hotel room. Great view of the beach- but it was raining so hard you couldn’t do any outdoor activities. Sheesh

So we ate. And ate. Fisherman’s Catch, Wells Lobster Pound (more than once), and even the Steakhouse. Good meals I tell you!

Meanwhile we have our first sunny day in Maine – and Sophie tries to get a tan – and since she missed the first 3 days due to rain – does the 16 year old trick of just spending the day toasting – and somehow not applying sun tan lotion.

Result – burned to a crisp. But completely evenly! It actually looked like she’d painted on a white bikini. A perfect burn everywhere!

I smear her with Aloe, dose her with Motrin (looked it up on Dr. Google – highly recommended) and pack her off to her summer camp in Stratford.

Two lovely days on my own in Maine – mostly spending painting – my newest passion. I’ll have you know that I’m up to painting #4! Take that stinky art teacher when I was 15 who told my mother to stop wasting money giving me painting lessons!

Victor returns from a very successful parade in Cape Vincent – and we make plans to meet up with friends from STX who have a ‘camp’’ in Maine. They join us for lunch one day (3 hrs over fried fish – what’s wrong with that) and then a full day at their camp.

In between I have art class – and I know it’s just flattery – but one of the other students (all of whom have reams of more experience than I) comments that she can’t believe this is just my 4th painting – it’s stunning.

I admit it – I like it too. I’m going to get it framed. Maybe hang it in STX….?

The camp is lovely – truly lovely. 2 bedrooms, nice kitchen/living space – and a quick walk to the ‘beach’ where they keep their Boston Whaler. They feed us lunch (yum) and take us to see the ‘rustic camp’ they are selling. It is truly rustic. No – seriously – rustic. Outhouse and everything. Cute camp area with lots of other homes – some rustic, some rebuilt – very cool. Then we go back to their ‘camp’ and spend several hours just burning gas and circling their lake and chatting about this that and the other. Kisses – and see you guys in STX – and we head for dinner.

Ok = it has been said that Eiser’s plan dinner while eating lunch – and unfortunately – it’s mostly true. The next meal is very important to us. And this one is going to be at one of our most favorite restaurants – The White Barn.

Yes – it’s a multi-course tasting menu – Yes Victor gets the Wine Pairing – and Yes – it’s delicious! My 3 favorite courses are a Tomato Tartar, a Shortbread sandwich filled with truffles, and a Wagu Beef in a completely yummy sauce. Got to give it to the White Barn – they don’t have a Michelin Star – but that’s Michelin’s problem!

Now we pack and leave Wells Beach. Originally our thought was that Victor would drive me to Logan – but it turns out that there’s a bus that goes from Portsmouth, NH direct to Logan – for $27. So instead of taking Victor miles and miles out of his way – he drops me off at the bus depot and I take a surprisingly nice bus ride into Boston.

Naturally – the plane is delayed. I’m grinding to suspect that an on-time plane doesn’t happen – but eventually I get to Chicago – navigate my way to the Bridge Tournament – and play bridge. Earn Master Points – Yeah me.

Then I fly to Toronto – relatively on time I’ll have you know – get to Stratford, Cheer like crazy for my grand-daughter – and then head back to Montreal.

Whew – That’s some July – right?

Wondering how August turns out? Me too! Stay tuned.

The Souplady signing off.

100 Best Cities in the World – #’s 40 to #1 – Where have you been?


Given that no one has been able to travel for MONTHS, a review of the top 100 cities in the world seems on the face of it an insane activity. But I suppose a traveler remains a traveler at heart. It’s just been a time off kind of year I suppose.

I admit it – when I’m in an airport, I do look at the departure signs – and consider – been there, want to go there, nope – not interested.. Been doing that for years.

So here is the last 40 of the list of the world’s 100 Best Cities – taken from http://www.best cities.org. Out of the last 60 cities, I’ve been to 37 of them – or 62 % – let’s see how we do on the top 40, shall we?

First – an apology – I was so long in doing this – that the list changed! So I’m playing a bit of catch-up – I’m starting with 42 – Seoul (which was much higher in my original list – and then working my way from there, trying to avoid repeats.

42. Seoul – Amazingly beautiful city. I loved the renovation of the Canal (stream) that runs thru the downtown area. It’s below street level, but open to the sky and filled with stones for ‘crossing’ and it even has elevators. And I loved the history and the museums – even the free ones! And the food – oh, don’t get me started on the food. Korean Fried Chicken is a revelation – and while we have Korean BBQ in Montreal – clearly it’s a pale and shameful copy of the real thing. And the best thing – the subway cars have senior sections! Reserved seating for seniors – where folks play a game of – I’m older and frailer than you are. Actually – the game is the reverse – clearly you are the older and frailer one – so you need the seat. With Jill’s white hair – we were always able to sit down! I do think this might be one of my favorite cities in the world.

41. Orlando – moved up from 48 in the last post… read all about it there

40. Bangkok – My first impression of Bangkok – fresh off the plane from Montreal – was dirty, noisy, crowded, scary. But after 5 weeks of travelling thru Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, my return to Bangkok proved how wrong first impressions can be. Bangkok now seemed modern and sophisticated and lovely. So do give Bangkok a chance – it will quickly grow on you!

39. Munich – Home to Octoberfest and Helmut and Andrea – dear friends. Can’t say I thought much of Munich – we just did Octoberfest and left – but Octoberfest was fun – so I must rate Munich well for that.

38. Sao Paulo – moved up from position 44 in the last post – still haven’t been there

37. Budapest – Been there – I was 21 – can’t remember a thing

36. Seattle – drove thru on our way from Vancouver (lovely city) to Los Angeles. Do I remember it? Nope.

35. Zurich – Banking, Banking, Banking – and some decent restaurants and some really really nice hotels.

34. Miami – I’m aghast – I tell you aghast that Miami rates on this list. It’s a gold diggers, wild man’s frontier – no rules, no law, no order. A mess – with some wonderful hotels and a famous beach. Ok – and Joe’s Crab House. That’s probably good enough to put Miami on the map. But trust me – I’m not a fan of Florida in general, and Miami in particular. There are a lot nicer places to hang a hat.

33. Dublin – visited when I was 20 – which is 52 years ago now. So my memory is dim. What I do remember is kissing the Blarney Stone (hey- it’s near Cork which is in Ireland – close enough. I also remember loving Shanty’s – which are basically watered down beer – but I didn’t know that then. Most memorable was getting stuck in Limerick (ok – again not Dublin) when the plane my sister and I were flying in had an engine fire and had to turn around over the Atlantic and fly back to the UK. Limerick had the nearest large airport. We were stuck for 3 days there – waiting for the engine to be repaired. It was 1969 – these things happened.

32. Houston – Cowboys and Guns and Big Buildings and Money. Not what I’d consider a great place to visit. Go at your own risk.

31. Boston – Ah – Boston. I lived there for 4 years while at University – and I met my husband there. Boston has a very special place in my heart. It’s totally worth a visit – or two, or even try living there. I do love Boston.

30. Melbourne – nope – down under is forbidden these days

29. Hong-Kong – Moved up from 42 – doesn’t deserve it – but maybe things have changed. It has been 20 some years since I was there.

28. San Diego – been there. Don’t remember it at all.

27. Milan – been there – I was 21. So I remember almost nothing except that it was – by Italian standards – graceless and busy and industrial and lacking in the pleasures that make Italy so wonderful. Maybe a return trip is warranted?

26. Prague – been there. My food memories are of Beer (which the Intrepid Traveler will not drink) and Sausages. I loved the bridges, and we rode the buses everywhere with our guide books open. You can see a lot of a city with a good bus map and a guide book with pictures…. Just saying.

25. Beijing – been there. The Intrepid Traveler and I went there just before the Olympics and were shocked at how completely the city was being remade. Entire neighbourhoods that had survived for hundreds of years were being completely emptied and razed to make way for the new modern China. Condos were being built to house the folks tossed out of their traditional homes in the thousands – with little or no respect. Many of these new ‘condos’ were still ghost towns, places waiting for folks who might never come. But China is China – and we did love the Forbidden City, the ceaseless natural rhythm of the nights, and the wealth of options for entertainment – some really upright, some debatable. This is a wild and wooly place – the Wild West on Steroids in a foreign language.

24. Vienna – been there. I was 21 – that was 52 years ago – I remember very little – except I went to the Opera – standing room for $5 – and loved it. Hey – I was really really young…

23. Istanbul – been there. Multiple times. It’s a cross-roads from East to West – and really a nifty place. Two strong memories – the magnificent Topkapi Museum – which needs two days, and we only had one to give it. Among other must-see items is the staff of Moses, and the arm of John the Baptist. His head as a child is in another museum in case you wondered. We managed to not see the famous Haram – we simply ran out of time. I think the advantage of having a tour guide would be that they move you along. As the Intrepid Traveler and I are wont to do – we moved slowly… My other strong memory is more unique (everyone knows to visit the Topkapi). We were eating an outdoor lunch in a large park and a couple walked by. The woman was in traditional Muslim covered dress – but still posed for pictures! We found that so interesting. We were less thrilled with the food – I think we just never found exactly the right restaurant – but I’m sure there was one that would have made us happier. But I would go back in a heartbeat. It’s a wonderful city.

22. Washington, D.C. – been there, lived there for 2.5 years. Magnificent gardens, glorious homes, frighteningly poor ghettos (yeah – still). But of course it’s the museums that will bring you back over and over again. There is never ever enough time to see them all.

21. Las-Vegas – been there. Several times. Always a bit sorry I went. Once it was with my Dad, about 4 months before he died. He was in a wheel chair, but basically feeling ok – so we just ‘rolled’ him here, there, and everywhere. Because of the wheel chair, we had to park and get him into the wheel chair and from there into the hotel. So we discovered the fact that it is impossible to get from a parking lot into a hotel in Las Vegas without going thru the Casino. No way! Once we were going from point A to point B – and I had to stop for a ladies break. I left my Dad sitting near the entrance to the ladies room in the Casino area and disappeared to do what was needed. When I returned, he was chatting gleefully with a gal wearing nothing but tail feathers and a head dress. She was doing that bunny stoop that shows off the best features – and my Dad had a grin from ear to ear. Only in Las Vegas.

20. Berlin – been there (one of my favourites). The Intrepid Traveler and I visited for a week, my husband and I for a few days. I found the city completely stunning. The food was incredible – although I most fondly remember just a roast chicken we bought near our lodging from a Turkish Roast Chicken Place. The museums are incredible. The Germans were great at taking ‘souvenirs’ back from abroad – entire Altars, Walls, and such. And they keep them safe and tourist friendly. Amazing. I most enjoyed a very adorable private museum on life in East Berlin – and the History of the rise and fall of Hilter is a must do (and needs a strong stomach). Give the Germans credit for coming clean on how and why things went so wrong. The Eastern part of the city was more interesting – when you go (and you definitely should) – see if you agree with me on that perception.

19. Sydney – haven’t been – and since they are completely shut down – not even the top ranked Tennis player in the world can get in – I don’t think I’m going any time soon. Oh well.

18. Toronto – been there. My daughter lived there for a year, and they have a really good bridge club, and hosted a National Bridge Competition one year. So I’ve been in and out many times. It’s a modern North American City with a very diverse population, some excellent museums, and as I learned when I went with my sisters for my 65th birthday – a very loud, very in your face – Rainbow community.

17. St. Petersburg – been there. The Intrepid Traveler and I spent 3 weeks in St. Petersburg – enjoying ourselves immensely. You can check out my more detailed blog report elsewhere on this site. The trick to St. Petersburg is to avoid like the plaque (Covid or Black) the crowds from the cruise ships. I watched in horror as one lady took out another for getting in the way of her ‘shot’ in a museum. And saw another man lift his iphone over his head to aim at the tiny but incredibly famous painting of the Benoit Madonna. There was a crowd of about 25 people in front of him – so he took his shot – and went on to see other things. We just avoided the famous sections of the Hermitage until the cruise ship passengers left (around noon), and then had the entire place to ourselves. Crazy city but really good food if you are willing to go where the normal folks eat and avoid anything smacking of tourists. And you can get incredible Georgian Wines at the local quick market for around $2. Now that’s worth visiting a city to experience.

16. Amsterdam – been there. Canals are amazing, buildings are amazing, food is expensive but really really good – and there are interesting museums. I did enjoy visiting the Anne Frank house – crowds aside, it’s worth doing. When I visited with my husband, we even checked out the red light district. Interesting. Can’t say much more though – but I’m glad I did it so I can say I did. I did not, I admit, participate – not there, and not in the Canabis houses. Not my thing. But certainly part of the life of the city.

15. San Francisco – been there. It’s hilly

14. Abu-Dhabi – kinda maybe sort of want to go. Know nothing about it though

13. Chicago – been there. I must say my memories are mostly of our hotel – the Trump Palace. I got a Hotwire discount rate – and simply couldn’t resist. Location was perfect – and since this was in the days before he was President – I didn’t much mind taking advantage of a lovely 5-star hotel in a great location. Not sure if I’d easily stay there again, but there you go. My other memory is of our abortive attempt to see a play. We made reservations, got to the theatre to discover that someone had stolen the computer that powered the lights. And without that – the play couldn’t go on. But the Magician that was the ‘star’ decided to offer a free magic show to the very disappointed customers – and that was great! We also had a fabulous dinner in one of the 5-star restaurants – a tiny place open only to 4 tables a night. Meal was great – company even more fun. Chicago is pretty cool.

12. Doha – in Qatar – I looked it up. Never been there

11. Rome – been there. If you have not – why not? What are you waiting for? Have you not read the guidebooks? I’m asking seriously – to not have seen Rome is to not have traveled. It’s a must. If only for the Pistachio Gelato.

10. Madrid – been there. There are some great museums – and some lovely parks. The problem with Madrid is that the rest of Spain is so amazing – it kinda loses it’s thrill because you can’t wait to get on to the rest of your tour. Too bad too – because I think Madrid might be worth a much closer look – I just never had the time. Barcelona on the other hand… sigh.

9. Barcelona – been there, been thrilled. The Gaudi homes, parks, and Cathedral are literally beyond belief. And it doesn’t surprise me one wit that Barcelona is higher on the ‘great cities’ list than Madrid. It literally has everything. Great food, a beach, a proper city, an old city, and all the Gaudi stuff which alone is worth the visit. And it’s driving distance from the justifiably famous Salvador Dali Museum. And home to Museums featuring works by Miro and Picasso. I think it’s the lighting that inspires so many famous artists to call Barcelona home.. the city has a glow about it that is quite the stunner. Anyway – it’s well worth a visit. Or two. Or three.

8. Los Angeles – been there. Not that thrilled – So Sorry. I actually lived in Los Angeles for 3 months – on the beach – in Venice. Which at the time (early 70’s) was cheap and dirty and full of outdoor workout ‘gyms’. The beach was large and flat – and honestly, not that thrilling. I was in my ‘hippie’ days – and spent most of my time selling drift wood sculptures and just hanging around. I had neither the money nor the interest in doing much exploring. Do you think I should plan another visit?

7. Singapore – Ok – I’m going to say been there – but in all honesty – I was only in the airport. But I was in the airport for a really long time. I think that counts. Of course I hated it. Dirty and crowded and no where comfortable to sit. But I watched ‘Crazy Rich Asians’ and I think I’d like to go back with someone to tour around with. Maybe when the intrepid Traveler and I plan our next trip to Taiwan…

6. Tokyo – been there several times. Went on business with my husband, and for pleasure with the Intrepid Traveler and her son. This is a massive, massive, massive city with the cleanest subway toilets in the world. And I should know. I’ve visited lots of them. Yes it is expensive – and Yes – I had to go without coffee when I was there with the Intrepid Traveler – but still, it’s amazing. And folks in general are very friendly. I love the museums, I love the people, I hate the crowding and I got seriously scared in a subway station when massive of folks just swarmed thru at the same moment. Moral learned – steer clear of the subways during rush hour.

5. Dubai – nope – not really interested

4. Moscow – oops – want to go

3. Paris – been there. Unfortunately – this is probably my least favourite city on the entire list of 100 cities. I have been there many many times, starting when I was just 16 – and I even have a tiny bit of French so I can handle menus and most signs. But the folks that call Paris home are so universally snobby that I just can’t enjoy the place. One memorable trip featured a subway strike forcing us to walk miles and miles to get back to our lodging. Another trip included one of my worst meals ever – eaten at a 3-Star Michelin Restaurant that should have known better. Yes the pastry shops are delightful – and you can easily get coffee, so I suppose that’s in Paris’s favour. And I’ve been there on Free Museum Night – which was wonderful. But honestly – there are better cities out there folks. Trust me.

2. New York – been there. Like Paris – I’ve visited many many times. I have family that actually own homes in the city, and the Intrepid Traveller has friends that live there as well. So it’s not for lack of a local vibe that New York tends to annoy me. It’s just dirty. For years my mantra was – never wear white in New York City – for obvious reasons. I will admit that during my last visit, the efforts that have been made to clean it up did seem to be having an impact – and I found the High Line really really nice. Green space on a former elevated railroad – that’s a concept I can put my head around. Anyway – I’d take New York over Paris – but I’d take Berlin or Barcelona or London or Montreal over either of those!

1. London – been there – and here right now. As I write this blog I’m actually sitting looking at the traditional January Grey London sky. Not cold enough to be really cold (snow STOPS this city – big time), not dry enough not to be chilly, barely tolerable weather really. And Covid has made London hurt. The theatres are open, but suffering. The Covid numbers (on Jan 7, 2022) are sky-rocketing – everyone knows at least someone who is sick, and hopefully not living with them. 3/4 of my daughter’s team were sick with Covid over the Christmas run-up – which made getting product out the door rather challenging. And now with Christmas sadly behind them, Londoners are slogging their way thru to Spring. But aside from Covid – I do love London. Not as much as Barcelona – it’s the weather that hurts London it that comparison – but it’s got a sweet, kinda anything goes if you are polite about it, vibe. And almost everyone speaks English. Not generally American/Canadian of course – but English. One does wonder why underwear are pants, why dessert is pudding, and why bonnet refers to the engine space on a car, but in general, it’s polite, it’s friendly, they have decent food, and if you ignore the exchange rate – the prices aren’t horrid. London is a good city to top the list

And there you have it – out of the top 100 Cities of the world – I’ve been to 70 of them – that’s an easy calculation – 70%.

How did you do on this list? Do you agree with my descriptions? I think the list has issues – but the folks that created it used a scale that they developed – not a been there, remember it well analysis. So I guess that’s that.

Hopefully some day we shall be able to travel again. Think Positive I say! And Travel safely and be healthy! Signing off to plan for my very scary flight back to Park City Utah from London…. The Soup Lady

Sorry Chief – I’m Air Frames


That’s a very British Military way of saying – not my party!

And frankly – I love it. Craig, my daughter’s husband’s father – or as my grand-daughter tells me – her daddy’s daddy – is a retired British Officer – and he taught me this one! Thank you Craig

Back to the car – or as Craig would say – Sorry Chief – I’m Air Frames.

The car is still lying dead on it’s back – despite a momentary glimpse at life after death.

We drove back to Sutton Courtney on Saturday, we had to revisit the rental agency to extend the lease since at that point the car was still dead. They had tested everything they could think of – including replacing some electrical something (Hence the Sorry Chief – I’m Air Frames). Didn’t help.

We met up with Craig and Jan and had a delightful adults only lunch at the Barley Mow. This is a gastronomic Pub that is well worth it’s full bookings and occasional – sorry, no room apologies.

The pub is nestled in a village that if you squint your eyes and ignore the recycling bins is straight out of the 1800’s – maybe the 1600’s for all I know. Thatched roofs on all the brick cottages, narrow roadways, it even has a stream that rambles thru so it can be featured on narrow boat trips. It has everything – including the Barley Mow.

We knew we were in the right place this time because the decor was upper cottage. Dark beams across a white washed ceiling, well spaced tables, lots of tiny rooms that linked up in some strange (is there a map) way – and a lovely fireplace in every room.

We were escorted into the very oldest part of the Barley Mow – a low ceilinged room (under 6’ for SURE – and maybe topping out at 5’8” in places) that featured 4 tables and a lovely roaring fire. Cozy, cute, comfortable – and one hoped – food to match.

Like most gastropubs – the menu was filled with pub classics – fish and chips in several varieties, shrimp scampi and the like – plus oddities like French Onion Soup and Beet Salad – kinda 2022 meets 1920.

I loved the presentation of my fish and chips – I ordered the sweet potato fries, and opted for garden peas over mushy peas – so not truly traditional. But yummy. Even the onion soup was yummy although I don’t think the restaurants in France are going to lose any sleep over it.

The true food highlights were the conversation on how to make Tarter Sauce (never eat with foodies if you don’t want to know those details), and the best Bakewell Tart I’ve had since I’ve been coming to London.

I’m sorry Costa – your commercial offering, while yummy, is not up to this offerings scratch.

We had a nice long leisurely lunch – it’s really pleasant when it’s just adults, something you forget quickly when constantly accompanied by a lovely, and well behaved, but still 5 year old.

Then we checked in on the dead bug. Still dead. So we headed back to London. 2.5 hours later, we arrived in London to be told that the garage had called – and the car was fixed!

Miracle of Miracles!

Turns out that there was a blown fuse. His fix of the obvious electrical whatever (I’m Air Frames remember) didn’t appear to work because the fuse was blown. When that was fixed – the car ran!

We decide that another 4 hour plus drive just isn’t going to happen – so the plan is for Adrienne to take me to Heathrow Monday morning early (I’m heading to Utah next), then drive on to pick up the car.

Best laid plans

This morning we are greeted with an oops – not quite.

Craig – completely helpful soul that he is – decided to walk to the repair shop and get the car. In doing so – he discovered that the cure wasn’t permanent. The fuse had blown again. Three fuses later – and the conclusion is that there is something blowing the fuses.

Ya think?

So bug is still dead. I’m still going to Heathrow on Monday – but when the car will be deemed healthy remains a mystery.

Signing off to do VeriFLY – the newest wrinkle in an already painful flying experience… Can they possibly make it worse?

The Soup Lady