Category Archives: Personal Challenge

Egypt and Jordan – Day 17 – Feb 18, 2026


Petra! I can’t believe it. I’ve been dreaming of going to Petra forever – long before Indiana Jones made the Treasury famous in the Movie.

And now, finally – I’m going to do it! I’m completely excited, thrilled, and a bit nervous about the walk. But hey – I climbed into and up the Great Pyramid – I can do anything.

Unfortunately, Victor wakes up feeling very poorly and tells me that he’s rolling over and going back to sleep. I tell him – it’s Petra! You sure. He’s sure. So I go down to the lobby and explain to Osama that Victor’s not coming. He insists on calling up to the room to explain that Victor can take the cart option – but Victor says no – but thanks. He’s going back to sleep.

We walk across the road, Osama explains the layout of the Park – and then tells us that he plans on doing the walk very slowly, timing it so we get to the Treasury when the sun hits the face perfectly. I’m relieved. A nice slow walk – that I can do.

There are other options of course – some folks jog down as fast as possible. Other folks take a cart. And there’s even a horse riding option. Osama makes sure that no one wants the other options – and that folks know that it’s really easy to just do the carts back in case they get tired.

I’m not sure at this point that I realized that the Treasury isn’t actually in ‘Petra’ the city. It’s part of the Petra Momument of course – but it’s 1/2 way to the city. You must walk another mile and 1/2 to get to the city itself – and that’s where we’re having lunch. So basically it’s 3 miles down and 3 miles back from our lunch stop.

Completely innocently – I follow the leaders down the gravel, but relatively flat path past vendors (1 dinar – just 1 dinar), past folks hustling for horseback rides (want ride – horse ride), and past incredible views. Then we arrive at the entrance to The Siq – the canyon of the moon as per Indiana Jones. There’s a flat part, some bathrooms – and about 12 Roman Reactors! They do a quick formation march – then stand at attention as we walk down into the Siq.

As promised, Osama takes it slowly. He points out the elaborate water system that provided the city with water from springs up in the surrounding mountains, the dams that are part of that watering system, and a place where there’s a carving, now very eroded of a Roman (based on the Toga he’s wearing) leading several Camels. Once pointed out – you can’t miss it.

The pass thru the red rock canyons – colored magnificantly by nature in Red, White, and Black – curves and winds. This was the way Camel teams – 100 camels long – would get into Petra. Their goal – as ours is now – was the city. It’s an Oasis in the middle of the desert – right on the crossing of numerous trade routes North, East, and West.

Pictures simply do not do it justice.

Nah – not good enough. It is absolutely the most amazing thing.

And it’s not just the Treasury – although that’s staggeringly beautiful. There is so much more. Some of it easy to get to, some of it a lot more challenging. For example – there’s the Monastery – so named because folks who originally lived in the Siq and knew no archology – didn’t realize it was a tomb. Ed and Todd galloped up and down the 900+ steps, and could easily have done more. Me – not a chance!

Compared to the Tombs and Temples of Egypt, the city of Petra is relatively young – only about 2300 years old, compared to 4000 to 5000 years for the Egyptian Monuments – but the beauty can’t be understated.

It was a popular spot for 270 years (170 BC to 106 AD) for Camel Carvans because it had water year round. And it had water year round in the middle of a desert with maybe 14” of rain a year because the Nabataeans – a Bedouin Tribe out of Saudi Arabia – were amazing water engineers. They managed to get so much water to flow year round into the city that the Romans when they took over the city actually built a Nymphaeum, a quite elaborate public fountain.

In addition to the basic 3 mile walk – from the Entrance to the Treasury and on to the city of Petra itself, I’m considering a slight detour. It’s an easier walk amoung the options – up to what are called the Royal Tombs – although there are no records of any Royal folks living here. Then my phone bings – I get a message from Victor to let me know he’s feeling a lot better.

Osama says – we’ll do lunch down here as planned – it’s a magnificant buffet of Egyptian delights, you will love it. Then I’ll go back, pick him up and take him down to the Treasury in a cart. Odessey has already paid for the ticket so it’s just the cost of the cart extra. Naturally – I’ll go with Osama – and that means everyone else is on their own after lunch.

Plan made – I let Victor know that Osama and I will pick him up at around 3:00 to go see the Treasury.

After a deliciou lunch I hoof it back up the path (yes – 3 MORE miles) from the city of Petra, past the Royal Tombs, Past the Treasury and up, up, up to the Monument exit. Meanwhile Osama gets everyone else organized and then probably runs up to the Exit. Sigh – Oh to be young again.

I stumble back into our hotel room at 2:15 – quite proud of myself if a bit sore, and when Osama calls us at 2:30 PM – he’s ready to head back down – both Victor and I are ready to go. We enter the park again, and thank goodness – this time we are taking a cart down to the Treasury. I’m not at all sure I had another 3 miles in me. Victor admires the carving, the colors of the rocks, and some of the additional carvings, and then we take a cart back up the hill.

In addition to the expected hustle of ‘ride my camel’ – we are treated to a wonderful display of tourists behaving badly. To take the cart back – you have to line up and wait your turn. On large group of about 8 tourists – with their guide – ignore the line and try to push their way ahead of folks – including Victor and I – who have been waiting our turn to get on a cart very politely. I’ve having none of that I tell you – so I explain to them – there’s a line – and they are NOT getting ahead of my husband’s trip back to the hotel. And they aren’t getting ahead of those people who were waiting with us – or that guy that was also lined up before they so rudely decided to stand on our right rather than wait their turn.

To applause from the other folks patiently waiting – we are seated in the next cart to make the journey back thru the canyon. On our way up – we spot at least 5 carts heading back down empty – I guess the word got to the Powers that Be that folks were getting unruly at the cart stop.

Victor goes back to our room to rest – I do the Petra Museum. It’s actually a lot larger than it looks and covers the entire history of this part of Jordan. As I enter the museum, I run into Andrea who tells me to be sure and see the introductory movie. It’s all about water – and how the Nabataeans ruled for 270 years because they understood how truly important it was!

Just FYI – (I had to look this up on a map) – Petra is in the middle South of Jordan – well below the end of the Dead Sea and about 1/2 way from the Dead Sea to the Red Sea. Definitely in the middle of the desert.

It’s easy to imagine 100 long camel carvans going up and down – destination Petra and water. The high period of Petra ended when the last of the Kings died without an heir and the Romans decided they would rule Petra.

Fortunately – they improved, not destroyed the carvings in the soft Limestone done by the Nabataeans. But they did force them to stop carving tombs, and eventually they were absorbed into the Roman culture. In the city of Petra there are huge Roman ruins including a giant Temple which had it’s own swimming pool and garden, a multi-story building, traditional entrance arches, and of course the Nymphaeum.

I suspect that the Siq even impressed the Romans as they didn’t really widen it – but left it as this magnificant entry way into another world.

Dinner is a group affair – more mezze for me – and we are fairly early to bed. Thank goodnes. My watch is very proud of me – I did over 24,000 steps – and I’m pretty well done in. I just hope Victor continues to feel better in the morning.

Signing off to pass out – the Soup Lady

Egypt and Jordan – Day 15 – Feb 16, 2026


8:00 AM and the noise level in Cairo is already quite unbelievable. I will admit however, that I am starting to get used to the noise, the people seeming to constantly be yelling at each other, the insane amount of traffic – and as we head out into the ‘country-side’ – the increasing use of donkeys and/or horses to pull carts.

We’ve even seen donkeys pulling carts containing Oxen.

These are not tourist attractions, these are farmers who have no other way of getting their goods to market. There is a level of poverty here that is quite challenging by western standards.

Yet again we are also stunned by the piles of garbage everywhere – and while I believe that Hussein believes it shows how little the population respects the government – we watched out the bus window while a police officer in a dress uniform standing near an oh so common police standpoint casually take a paper out of his pocket, wipe the front of his uniform, then lean down and clean his shoes. When he finished – we all watched as he tossed the paper onto the already dirty street.

I know myself that if there is no liter – I will careful put a trash wrapper in my pocket. I’ll even pick up a piece of litter if it is the only piece and find a garbage can. But with no garbage cans in sight, and a filty street – picking up one piece seems hopeless. So even I – while annoyed – won’t stop to clean. I’m guessing the population of Egypt must be feeling the same way – and there are millions of them! (and we actually never saw a public garbage can!)

Somehow, I think the issue is more a cultural disregard for property that is not mine. Maybe the inside of my home is clean, but I’ll guarentee that streets in your neighborhood are dirty, areas near fences layered in discarded boxes and crates, the sidewalks challenging to walk down, and if there is a unoccupied area – particularly a gully of any size, it is filled with garbage. And the mounds are often high.

Maybe there is a ‘nicer’ section of Cairo, but we have yet to see it. Unless it is a very clearly tourist area – it’s a mess. Have people no pride?

But clearly, I digress. We are headed for the Step Pyramid. Hussein tells us that this national monument area is his favorite and he can’t wait to share it with us.

If you are interested in the history of this pyramid – there is a lot of information in Google on it, and on the rest of this National Park – check it out. I’m going to just talk about the parts I found interesting.

But first – when we park the bus inside the Monument – I see something I haven’t seen before. A man sweeping garbage on the sand into a dust pan. And not just one. I spot at least 3 employees cleaning up here – and then I realize that there is no litter to be seen. What a contrast to the street in Cairo!

Our first stop is the tomb of Idut – one of Hussein’s favorites – and rightly so. Unlike the massive Temples of Luxor and Karnak, the tombs we visited in the Valley of the Kings, or even the smaller temples we visited by boat in the Nubian area of Upper Egypt – the hieroglyics in this tomb are not about the book of the dead, or even much about the young princess (probably the daughter of King Teti) that died. They are all about local activities from 4,340 years ago! Imagine that – it’s a picture book for kids on what common folks were doing in the fields, and the kind of products that the Princess might expect to get from the common folks in the afterlife.

There’s hunting, fishing, farming, and even tax payments shown. This tomb is stunningly different from anything we have seen before.

There are colored carvings of rivers filled with different kind of fish, with Fishermen pictured fishing with lines with multiple hooks and a fish caught on one of them. There are other fishermen using nets. The accounting scene looks like it could be drawn today – with the scribe having pencils held behind his ears as he records the days receipts. There are common folks shown bowing to the princess to show respect, and a lovely colored scene of a fisherman with his net avoiding a hippo to catch huge fish. Another hunter is trying to use his staff to spear something. There are farmers carrying different kinds of birds to the princess, some being held, some in a sack.

In another scene, cows are being coaxed across a stream by the simple technique of holding a calf by his legs from a boat. The calf is clearly calling out to his mother – and the herd in solidarity are following the mother across the river!

In another scene – the farmers are crossing the river in a boat while below them the hippos including a baby hippo are being pursued by a Crocodile.

In another scene – a commoner is shown carrying a hind quarter of a calf – complete with the leg and hoof. There is also a butchering scene with the cows legs tied together in the forground. Another carving shows a young ibex leading his owner towards the Princess – one assumes that the young ibex is a gift to her.

One imagines that over 4000 years ago – an artist was having a lot of fun drawing what he could see around him every day.

We then move on to see the oldest tomb found so far with paintings from the book of the Dead. It’s easy to get inside compared to the challenge of the Great Pyramid – just down a few steps and you are surrounded by extremely well preserved Hieroglypics giving all the instructions for the Ka – the soul of the dead person – on how to enter the afterlife! All over 4000 years old. And some of these pyramids even still have sections of the finer limestone in tact.

It is easy to understand why Hussein, as an Arcologist finds these tombs of greater interest than the more popular and famous Giza Momuments. They are truly stunning.

Finally we are going to visit the funeral complex of King Unas – also dating back 4500 years. He ruled long enough to have time to build a truly elaborate Complex – including a Hall of columns, a large courtyard with false fascades so when his Ka came to visit – it would feel at home. Think Disneyland – from one side they look like elaborate buildings, but from the back they are just 2 stones thick.

There is a lot of ongoing excavaations going on in this area – and it’s been a hot bed of exploration for over 100 years – so you can imagine how much there is to see. But while our time isn’t limited, our ability to cope with the heat and the crowds limits our desire to explore. We only check out the highlights. There are well over 100 pyramids in this area alone – many of them visible from a high view point.

Hussein explains that the architect for King Unas was very creative, but hedged his bets. So while the buildings are made of stone, they are made to look like they are made of logs in keeping with older techniques. And the Hall of Columns features Columns attached to walls – not free standing – to make sure they didn’t fall down. We end our visit with a walk thru the stunningly beautiful hall of columns – and reboard our bus.

What has made our trip to Egypt so interesting is the depth of knowledge that Hussein is willing/able to share with us. He clearly knows his stuff. And some of the most interesting ‘lectures’ are about how he views the current political and Economic Situation. It’s way more interesting than – “and on your right is the Great Pyramid”.

We have one more stop before we get lunch. There is a magnificant statude of Ramses II that was found on it’s side with his feet missing. It has been uncovered and left lying on his back so the magnificant carving work can be seen up close. And it is amazingly lovely. I’m particularly impressed by the carving of his nose, his lips, and the bracelet on his right arm.

My best part of this visit is not the statue – but the opportunity to drive thru different sections from Cairo. We pass farm land, and more interestingly – farm land that has been converted into private schools. Hussein points out that the farmers make more money selling the land – but the problem is that the students who go to this school aren’t local students – they couldn’t afford it. So the kids are bused in, and bused out.

He also says that the government has caught on to this, and recently has created a law that makes it much harder – but not impossible – for farmers to try to cash in on their arable land. But the farmers figured out that they could make their land ‘useless’ by simply not farming it for a couple of years. Then they go to government and get a certificate that says the land isn’t worth farming – and bang – they can sell it for development.

Soon we are back at the hotel. A quick clean-up and we have our farewell dinner.

Early tomorrow morning we have to get our suitcases into the hallway and our bodies to the lobby. 5 of us are leaving the tour – 16 of us are going on to Jordan.

Signing off to catch way too few hours of sleep – The Soup Lady.

Egypt and Jordan – Day 16 – Feb 17, 2026


6:00 AM – time to get up, grab coffee and breakfast – and get to the airport. I’m quite excited – While I couldn’t wait to see the Pyramids and Egypt – Petra was huge on our bucket list – and finally we are getting to go.

Thank goodness for the Odyessy folks. They do a tag team to get us into the airport, thru the layer upon layer of security checks including another full body pat down and to our gate in plenty of time. That seems to be an Odyessy objective. Make sure they are never late to anything!

Andrea and I decide to walk the airport – and find the most interesting thing – Two white modular ‘containers’ that hold a bed, a mirror, a shelf and a bit of space for a carry-on. Emergency sleeping arrangements in the airport. Perfect!

Even more interesting – because we are so close to Ramadan – there are folks of folks heading to Mecca. They are dressed all in white, and many of them are wearing cloth signs that say things like “Heavenly Tour”. We smile and wave, they smile and wave back.

When we get to Jordan, Osma – our Odessey Guide for the Jordan portion of the trip explains that going to Mecca on Pilgramage is one of the 5 pillars of Islam.

Our flight goes painlessly – and we are met as soon as we clear the security area of the airport. So much better than our arrival in Cairo. I’m already loving Jordan.

As I mentioned – our new guide is Osma – and he seems really nice. And quickly tells us – I’m Jordanian – I always have a Plan!

His plan for today is for us to get on our bus (which is ours for our entire stay – so we can leave stuff inside), and start heading out of Amman. Our first stop is Madaba – a favorite stop for pilgrams to the Holy Land starting around 100 AD. There is a mosiac map of the sites of the Holy Land – including the Dead Sea, Jalem, Bethlehem, the Jordan River, Jericho, Jocob’s Well, Mount Sinai, the Nile Delta, Karak, St. Lot’s Monastery and Hebron. About 1/2 of it was destroyed in an earthquake in 790 AD, which is often the reason for destruction in Jordan. That was some Earthquake for sure.

The map is – as advertised – marvelous. It’s in Greek because that was the common language of tourists at that time. And it’s of course vividly decorated except for the places that were considered ‘offensive’ by the Catholic Church when it was decided to destroy all the icons and all recognizable figures for fear that they would distract men from their worship. We’ll hear more about both the earthquake and the distruction of icons later.

It’s finally time for lunch – and it is in a marvelous restaurant. Family owned and operated – the mother who was a good home chef but not a restaurantur by any means – got a grant from USAid. They trained her how to run a kitchen, bought her the equipment to make her recipes in larger quantities, helped her enlarge her restaurant to seat over 100 – and publish a cook book. The food lived up to Osama’s description – yummy! Victor was particularly fond of the Zatar coved crisp Pita strips and he of course bought her cookbook after checking out several of the recipes. I’m looking forward to some really interesting meals when we get home but first Victor says we’ll have to find some Zatar. Putting that on the shopping list.

After lunch we continue our drive to Petra. We arrive just in time to check-in and go for dinner in the hotel. We are staying in the Movenpick – and it’s right across the street from the entrance to Petra. I’m getting excited.

Time for bed – it’s another early morning tomorrow, but at least there’s no bus or plane ride to take.

Signing off to sleep! The Soup Lady

Egypt and Jordan – Day 13 – Feb 15, 2026


The Pyramids – we are Going to see the Pyramids!

Finally – after 12 days in Egypt we are going to go where everyone who visits Egypt thinks of first – the Great Pyramid.

Hussein tells us that isn’t just one Pyramid in Egypt – there are over 185 of them. But the truly famous ones are of course the three Pyramids of the Khufu family. King Khufu who was buried in the Great Pyramid, his son and his grandson who were buried in the middle and smallest of the Giza Pyramids in their turns.

We’d been able to see them from the GEM (Great Egyptian Museum) – but this time we’re going to up close and personal.

On the ride from the Kempenski to the Pyramid Complex, Hussein explains that we all have tickets to climb inside the Great Pyramid to the place where King Khufu was buried, but it’s a challenging tour and our guides can not come with us.

First you climb up large blocks to the entrance to the Pyramid, craved by the Muslins who were certain there was treasure inside, and were I suspect sorely disappointed to discover that the tomb raiders had been there long, long, long before them. Then you walk thru a 2 way narrow stone tunnel to the staircase and go up a narrow staircase. Then you are at the first of 3 ramps that climb ever upward. It is 340 meters to the top of the ramps, the ceiling becoming increasingly lower until people must stoop or even crawl. And your reward? An empty Stone Rectangle with nothing inside. The worst part – you must reverse the journey to get back.

He continues to explain that folks have complained of back and thigh pain for 2 and 3 days after this experience.

Hmm – not sure that sounds like much fun.

But then I tell myself – I travel here for 24 hours on airplanes – and I’m going to admit to my friends and family that I didn’t go inside the Great Pyramid. Does that sound like me? I think not.

So – the bus drops us off, we gather near the foot of the Great Pyramid to be told a bit of it’s history, along with the fact that for over 3000 years it was the tallest man made structure in the world and is the last of the 7 great wonders of the ancient world still standing.

We walk the short distance up to the foot of the pyramid – and it is a lot larger from this perspective than it was from the GEM windows.

There is a crowd of people lined up climbing the big stones to the begining of the tunnel that marks the entrance to the Pyramid, and Hussein asks – ok – who is going to go inside.

Bravely, I raise my hand. I’m not even alone of our group to do this. This is highly reassuring. I’m not the only nut!

Naturally, I quickly fall the rear of our group – I’m easily going to be the slowest climber – but my first thought is to just do the tunnel – say I’ve been inside – and be done with it.

But in for a nickel, in for a pound. Of course I do the first tunnel, then I climb the stairs, and now I’m going up the first of the ramps. These are wooden ramps with wooden ‘steps’ going across at about 9” intervals. The ramps will get increasingly steep as we go higher, but at this point I don’t know that. This first ramp, which extends out of view above me looks very do-able.

So I start climbing. I bang my head on the ceiling from time to time – it is quite low and the height changes suddenly – hence the ‘bangs’ but I’m doing ok. What is most challenging is that folks are going down the same ramp, and the ramp is only about 2’ wide. Some folks slip by easily – but the guy going down sitting on his bum and taking up the entire 2’ does pose a climbing challenge.

First ramp completed – now I’m at a flat part about 2’ square (just enough to breathe and stretch) before I start the next part. A guard is stationed at this point, and his job is to encourage folks to keep moving! This time there is one ramp going up, and another ramp going down – so it’s much much faster. But the ceiling is getting lower – and I’m definitely having to stoop. It’s the stooping that slows you down.

This ramp ends, and the third and last ramp is now visible. We’re back to the 2’ wide 2 way ramp design, so I’m frequently forced to stop while someone passes me on their way down.

And this ramp is much much steeper, and the ceiling is quite a bit lower. I’ve figured out that my head is safer if I keep a hand raised over it, dragging my fingers along the ceiling. When my fingers find a down part – I duck a bit further.

340 meters upward – that’s about 340 yards or 1000 feet – I’m at a flat tunnel that is seriously small. This is where some folks crawl, but I’m ok walking with my back bent, hand above my head, and my knees stretching out straight ahead with each step.

At the end – as promised – the actual burial space of King Khufu. Hurrah – I made it! And I’m very proud of mysel.

But as promised – it’s an large empty space. I take a photo of a fan to prove I’ve been there, look around and stretch – and then start the long crouch back down.

I suppose if figures that if I’m polite on the way up, I’ll be polite on the way down – so bottom line – I’m slow. But I make it back down all the ramps, the stairs and thru the tunnels to daylight. The guards at the entrance greet us with “You’ve been born again” – which makes me chuckle.

I DID IT! I climbed to King Khufu’s burial Chamber. Yea Me!

We re-group, and get back on the bus to go to the Sphinx. This is actually easy to visit – although it’s finally getting a bit crowded and there’s a bottleneck where we have to squeeze thru a narrow doorway. But it’s totally worth it – it’s the Great Sphinx. I even spot the location where Detective Hercule Poirot sat at the being of Death on the Nile! If you’ve never seen it, or it’s been too long – the 1978 version is such a classic – Check it out.

Folks are posing as if they are kissing the Sphinx – if you stand on the high edge of the walkway and bend over – from the right angle it does look like you are exchanging kisses.

We walk back slowly, it’s the SPHINX! I’m so excited to finally come face to face with something so beautiful, so historic, so old!

Hussein gives us a bit of a talk about the Sphinx, then Victor takes the mike to explain that Napoleon definitely didn’t blow the nose off – there are written reports from years before he came to Egypt describing the Sphinx as having no nose.

Back to the bus, and it’s time for our camel rides. I can’t resist. I’ve climbed up inside the Great Pyramid – I can sit on a camel. And I now have the picture to prove it. I even got a ride – albeit very short. But enough to realize that a camel is a lot like a horse with a very awkward way of kneeling. First they put their front legs out and bend their knees toward the back. Then they bring down their back legs – with the knees bending towards the front. It makes for a bit of a pitch forward then backwards – which some folks in our group find surprising, but it’s quite fast.

The Camel Handler signals me to raise both my hands to frame the Great Pyramid behind me – and snaps my picture.

Very Cute!

And no – my camel did not spit at me, or behave in the last bit inappropriately. He was easy down for me to get on, easy up with me on his back, a bit of posting while he walked around, and then absolutely still when asked to stop by the driver so we could get the photos.

Next stop – the smaller of the Pyramids, where we walk around looking at the pits where the boats we saw in the GEM were discovered – and Hussein explains a bit more about how these momuments were built. They have found ruins of mud brick ramps in other places, so they are quite certain that the same method was used here. The most interesting – I didn’t know that – thing is that they discovered above the burial chamber of King Khufu a series of decreasing empty chambers ending in one that is triangular. They suspect that these were used to reduce the pressure on the burial chamber by redirecting the weight of the stones above it on all 4 sides. Neat.

Back to the bus, a drive along the highway linking the GEM to Cairo proper past the crowded and half empty appartment buildings, and crowds of folks pushing and shoving their way on the streets to a Fish Restaurant. It’s relatively new and actually interviewed Victor for a TV advertisement they were working on after each of us was served a whole grilled fish (a small sea bream we decide) with skewers of 3 grilled shrimp (head and tail on). I like the Mezze the best to be honest.

Then it’s back to the hotel – and I opt for a lovely afternoon on the roof terrace, hidden from the sun by a large umbrella – working on my blog of course.

For dinner we go back to the Taboula with Ed and Todd. We have a very very lovely time, the food is even better than last time. The host remembers us from the night before (I think it’s my hat with it’s purple flower – or maybe Victor’s destinctive sideburns and ponytail?) and greets us warmly. He suggests different dishes – although we insist that one of the main courses be the Beef with Pomegrante and Citrus Sauce. Dessert is 3 unique dishes – and I love everything. Best place we’ve eaten since we arrived in Egypt – for sure.

The walk home is past the security guards for the British and American Embassys again – and it still feels awkward.

Cairo just feels like a city in big trouble. So many men just standing around, not even talking in small groups, just standing around at all hours of the day and night. Hussein says unemployment is about 30% amoung younger men – which tallies with what we see. Although when I look up unemployment in Egypt – officially it’s at 6.5%. Hmmm – hard to believe.

Although they are doing the 3rd world thing of throwing people at problems, not equipment as we would in the 1st world. There are donkeys used to pull carts – not just one or two, but clearly the obvious choice. And while I don’t see the thousands of motorbikes that I did in Thailand and Vietnam – there are ‘common’ taxis.

These are white vans that pick up folks standing on the highways. Hand signals determine where the van with it’s load of riders is heading so the folks needing a ride can quickly determine if this van will work for them. And everyone – old and young, men and women – use these services. Apparently a ride is 1/2 an Egyptian pound. We see crowds of people just standing around waiting – literally blocking an entire lane of the highway on each side.

And I can see that the much advertised Metro to the GEM is very closed.

Signing off to go to bed – tomorrow is another busy day.

The Soup Lady

Egypt and Jordan – Day 12 – Feb 14, 2026


Another insanely early start day! That’s 2 in a row – tough on these old bones – but it is what I signed up for – so I’ll pull up my big girl pants and bravely head out into the dark.

Our destination is Cairo – and everything goes smoothly. Thank goodness for the Odyessy Folks – they really have this streamlined. We re-group at a completely unreasonable hour in the lobby, grab coffee or tea or hot water from the hotel staff who also had to get up early, grab our ‘to go’ breakfast bags – and board a bus for the 45 minute trip to the Luxor Airport.

The streets are empty – but the airport is packed. There are layers upon layers of security. First stop – we seperate into women’s and men’s lines – We are told to carry only our passports – Everything else goes thru the scanners. And then we walk thru a human scanner – and everyone gets a pat down. They even make us put our legs up on a block and they pat them down. There is a woman doing the patting on the ladies side, and a man for the man’s side.

Then we get to the check-in counter – wait in line to check-in, then we go to the security system (Men vs Women division and another full body pat down this one with shoes off), and finally we are at the gate level. All these checks – and we are only flying Domestic – Egypt Air from Luxor to Cairo.

The plane is packed, not an empty seat to be had. But at least we are all able to get on the plane. Hussein warned us that sometimes groups are bumped to later flights if they arrive late at the check-in counter. But we dodged that bullet.

Even so the flight is delayed, and we get a late start. No matter – Hussein has plans that he can flex to make sure we get to see everything we were told we’d see in Cairo.

The other option is the train from Luxor to Cairo – a distance of about 500 miles. But the train takes 13 hours! The train from Montreal to Toronto, a distance of 600 miles, takes a bit over 4 hours – and we’re screaming that this is extremely slow. Well – it’s not slow in comparison, that’s for sure.

Anyway – we have a quick flight and uneventful flight – and we land in Cairo. Our first experience with the Cairo Airport wasn’t great – but this time we are firmly in Hussein’s hands. His cheerful ‘Follow Me’ gets us out of security to baggage claim. There’s a heart stopping few moments when everyone elses luggage has arrived – and ours is MIA. But then the baggage conveyer begins to spin again – and out pop our Bags.

Whew.

We walk out of baggage claim to our bus without anyone asking if they can help us, and we are on our way to our first stop in Record Time. I’m impressed. There are clearly advantages to being with a well organized tour group like Odyessey!

The Citidel in Old Cairo was built in response to the Crusades – The rulers of Egypt wanted to defend themselves, but in fact the feared invasions never happened, and the Citidel was never used. It does remain today as the Egyptian reminder of the Crusades. In the courtyard of the Citidel is a Mosque built like Turkish Aga Sophia except they used Alebastor for the walls. Inside it is stunningly beautiful.

Right now it’s being refurbished, so while all visitors either cover their shoes or remove them, we were allowed in to get a better feel for the place. Among the planned refurmishments are new carpets, so the old carpets have been removed, giving the giagantic inside a clean and very relaxed feel. I’m also impressed by the view of Old Cairo from the Balcony that runs the entire width of the Mosque.

We take a short bus ride down to the ‘old Bazzar’ area of Cairo. It feels a lot like the Bazzar in Fez – except all the vendors are hawking tourist items. But the narrow alley ways and the tiny size of the shops definitely brings home that Bazzar feeling.

Some of us opt to shop, but Victor, Andrea, Ed, Todd and I opt for a different tour. Hussein takes us to see some of the more interesting aspects of “Old Cairo’. We walk past an entry way where the Threshold stone is has clearly been lifted from a Temple – it is covered in Hieroglypics. There a door way to a former Synogous – recognizable by the Jewish Star. There are butcher shops with butchers working on cutting Beef Quarters into smaller cuts of meat. I chat with a lovely Egyptian Family – Mother, Grandmother and two Daughters. Curled around the legs of the Grandmother – but finally willing to do high fives with me is the pride of the family – a young son!

Other highlights – a shop making and selling Brass Cannons – in a variety of sizes – from large to really really large! I tell Victor – NO CANNONS!

There are also Tin shops making Hookahs in various sizes – including

Just as we are getting ready to leave – Andrea and I beg for a bathroom stop. Our security guard chats up one of the shop owners – and we are alowed to accend a very narrow spiral stone staircase 3 flights to a tiny bathroom. I don’t care – it’s clean and the guy who found us the toliet hands us some toliet paper!

Life is good!

Now we are driven to the Coptic area of Old Cairo. This area is actually buried underneath ‘New’ Cairo, and was built on top of Roman Ruins. So layer upon layer upon layer! So interesting. To get to the Coptic area, you actually walk down a rather steep staircase and under a bridge that carries pedestrians. There – much like Diagon Alley – is an under ground shopping street with small restaurants – a very large antique book store, and a Christian Nunnery (I spot a Nun!). There are two reasons we came down – a quick visit to the ‘Cavern’ where Jesus was hidden for from 3 months to 2 years – depending on who is telling you, and a magnificant old Synagogue that has been donated to the Egyptian Government during Nasser’s Nationalization of all things Jewish.

After taking over the Synagogue, the Egyptians discovered a hidden room filled with old records. In the records – it is recorded that Mamonidies once came here. It is unclear from the presentation we have what he might have been doing – research perhaps – but he was here! Amazing.

To say I’m impressed is an understatement. I know from being in England many times that history can be found buried in the ground, but this is a complete community that is still functional.

We then visit the Hanging Church – built over Roman Ruins that can actually be seen thru the floor boards, and get back on the Bus. For the first time today, I am feeling ‘crowded’. A high school group joins us in the church – and there isn’t even room to breathe. I’m out of here! (hey – first I admire the mosaics – then I run!)

Next stop – lunch and then back to the hotel for a well earned Nap.

We are ‘free’ for dinner, and Hussein suggests a Lebonese Restaurant called Taboula. It was on Victor’s – must try – list, so we are for sure going. Pam and Suzanne join us – and we get a shared meal for 4. There’s enough food for 6 – and it is easily the best meal we’ve enjoyed in Egypt. Superb cooking, great presentation – and one of the main courses – a Beef dish with a Pomegranate/Citris sauce blows us away. Victor asks how it was made or even just the name – but the maitre d’s lack of English and our lack of Arabic proves a stumbling block. He’s definitely looking it up when we get back to the hotel.

Dessert is also excellent – we decide that it’s a bread pudding made with pita – so a Pita Pudding!

The short walk back to the Kempenski takes us past the American and British Embassies. There is – not unexpectedly – a huge police presence. They are set up with Metal riot shields, Personnel Carriers, machine guns, and helmets with face shields every 25 yards – and clearly awake and on guard. I had wondered early about the relatively high number of police in the area of the hotel – now I know why. It’s definitely not about us!

The Kempenski is a warm and welcoming beacon and we gleefully say hi to the staff and make our way to our room.

Definitely bed time.

Signing off – the Soup Lady

Egypt and Jordan – Day 11 – Feb 13, 2026


A Balloon Ride over the west bank of Luxor – To Go or Not to Go?.

Hussien starts off the ‘sales’ pitch by telling us that the Balloon Ride is expensive, and that there are 32 people in the basket with you – plus of course the Pilot. And you must get up super early to get to the launch site. And it’s possible that the Balloons won’t fly because the wind is wrong, or there’s too much sand in the air.

Given that Cairo is under a Sand Storm watch – We do hesitate for a second – but then Hussien continues by telling us that it is unbelievably good.

To go or Not to go? But I loved my balloon ride in Turkey – so we decide – Ok – we’re going.

Turns out that 15 of the 21 of us opt in – so we will make up 1/2 of the basket. That sounds a bit better – but I’m still wondering about crowding. Well – we will see.

The alarm rings, we dress warmly (I don’t know WHY I listen to Egyptians complaining about the temperature. They are wearing faux fur coats and I’m in short sleeves and shorts – and find it warm). But maybe it’s colder 300’ above Luxor.

We all pile into a large van – and head out. The city is very quiet – there are folks around, but the real action hasn’t started yet, thank goodness. So traffic is light, very very light by Cairo standards for sure.

In the pre-dawn, we cross over the Nile, and quickly find ourselves in a van parking lot! There must be over 100 white ‘tourist’ vans jockeying for parking locations, but our driver knows exactly were to go – so we’re parking right acoss from 2 balloons spread out on the sand. The first of these is ‘Our’ Balloon.

Most folks opt to stay in the van, but I’m way to curious to do that. So out I hop to check out the action. There are ‘coffee’ shops along the side away from the balloons – and probably 100 balloons laid out on the sand, ready to start the process as soon as they get the ok to fly!

I walk over to our balloon. The basket is on it’s side – and there are 3 Giant Fans on the right and left side of the basket. The basket is huge – figures if 33 people are going to be inside. And the size of the balloon is equally huge. Way larger than the balloons I ‘flew’ in Turkey for sure. The width of the opening is larger than the basket – and the balloon itself stretches at least 100’ off.

I am totally surprised when a voice from inside the basket say – hi! A face peeks out of a foothole in the basket – and I ask – who are you? Maybe a better way might have been to say hi back – I’m Leslie – Who are you. But never mind – too late to fix mistakes.

He explains he’s part of the crew! I then realize that what I’d taken to be an empty set of steps is now the resting place for 4 other guys – and they are taking out drums to entertain themselves before the balloon gets launched. I’m chatting with them when suddenly folks are running past me in all directions – sprinting to their assigned Balloons. The ‘GO’ signal has sounded.

Everyone has his assigned job. Guys man each of the Giant fans, and 3 other guys open up the mouth of the Giant Balloon. The fans fill the balloon with air – slowly at first, then increasingly effective as more and more of the silk gets filled. The guys walking around inside the balloon straighten folds, push out the sides, and then check that things are going correctly.

The pilot arrives – walks the interior of the Balloon – just like a pilot inspecting his airplane, and then he signals to the crew that the fire will be starting. A huge flame erupts from the center of the basket – hot air is driven into the air filled balloon, and it starts slowly to rise up.

What seems like a slow process accelerates as the Balloon fills, and starts to float over our heads. Suddenly there’s a tap on my arm – Andrea has joined me to watch. Victor, Andrea and I decide to share a section of the huge basket. Over the noise of the flame – the pilot explains that there are 9 sections – one for him and 4 on each side. 4 people max can go in each basket section – but one group will be 3. We opt to be 3.

That settled we wait for a few moments as the crew pushes the basket up right and readies the basket for us to clamber in. The sides are high – to my chest for sure – so no falling out! I watch how other folks get into their sections – and the teams bring a step stool up so we can get a start on the height. But to get down off the rim, we have to drop down 3.5 feet. I do a horse descent – super glad for that training – and suddenly everyone is in the basket. We are instructed on the landing position – bend your knees hard, duck your head, put your hands on the cords on the side of the basket and DON’T move until the pilot gives the all clear.

The crew has stopped holding the fans – and are now circling the basket holding it down while the Pilot get’s the engines ready to take us up. The air in the balloon has to be heated before the crew can let go – but there’s an exciting minute or so while the crew puts all their weight into keeping the balloon on the ground.

The pilot signals the crew to let go – and we wave goodbye! Suddenly we are flying.

Our balloon rises quickly – and now that I’m not paniced – I take a look around. There are over 100 balloons flying – We are in the middle of the pack – but 2nd to go up. The balloons were laid out in such a way as to keep enough space between the balloons to avoid collisions. I’m guessing they also control ‘lift-off’ time to stagger the balloons further.

The ride up is actually quiet and the view is amazing. We are looking towards the hills that seperate Luxor from the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens and the pilot explains that we definitely don’t want to go over those hills – There’s no easy place to land. And we aren’t allowed to cross the Nile for exactly the same reason. It would be really hard to find a landing space for one of these huge balloons in Luxor City.

So we are hoping to drift North towards Cairo where there is a good place to land the balloons.

But right now – he’s going to spin the balloon and the basket so we can all get a Pano picture of the sunrise over Luxor. Insanely beautiful. I’m so happy.

We drift over towns on the west bank of the Nile – Victor loves the view of the roof tops – it’s HO scale! I’m just enjoying the breeze, the feeling of flying, and the thrill of being up so high.

My heart is definitely racing! This is so beautiful. Much better than the balloon ride in Turkey!

Folks in another basket ask our Pilot how much training he has – and after quiping that this is his first try – admits that to be a Pilot you must do 3 years of training and get something like 1000 hours of experience before you can take up a balloon on your own – let alone with guests.

He then starts explaining about landing – reminds us of the landing position – and then shows us where it is safest to bring the balloon down. Only then does he also explain that it’s almost impossible to hit a good spot – so we need to be prepared to stay in the landing position till his all clear.

Our 90 minute flight is almost over – and to say it has flown by is an understatement! Wonderful.

We start to decend – and while several of the balloons are already down in the right place, we decend a bit quicker than our Pilot planned – and we are going to be landing in a rougher area than he likes. He cautions us again about the landing position – and then asks us to assume it!

We are only 20 feet above the sand and rock – and the crew has driven around to be directly below us with the truck parked safely to the side. As we decend – the crew grabs the basket and tugs it into a flatter part of the landing area.

Then once again they put all their weight into holding us down. The balloon as a different idea and makes a quick dash for the sky – but loses the battle and falls gentle to the ground.

Now most of the crew stop hanging onto the basket and switch jobs. The silk of the balloon can not be torn – so they have somehow spread a large mat on the rocks and sand where we have landed and pull the lower part of the balloon onto that mat. There is still a bit of air in the upper part of the balloon so they team up to fold and twist the lower part of the balloon, safely protected by the mat, and pull it forward into a fold. Pull, twist, fold, Pull, twist, fold – repeat until the balloon has been emptied of all the air – and safely carried onto a truck.

Next it’s our turn. The crew circles around the basket helping folks out of their sections. We were the last section in – so we’re the last section out. And it’s not like getting out of bed, but it’s easier than getting up from the ground without using your hands! Victor waits until both Andrea and I are safely out of the basket and in the hands of the crew before climbing out himself.

Now we must board a flat bed truck to be taken back to our van. Remember we were last out … well – everyone else is already sitting in the truck bed – we have to squeeze in. This is made more interesting by the fact that the side of the flat bed has to be raised to hold us all in. Us and 29 of our closest friends cuddle up on the bed of the truck with some members of the crew. Other crew members sit on top of the truck Cab!

It’s about a 5 minute drive – 30 minute walk – to where the vans are waiting. We get off the truck bed, into to the Van – and all of us cheer! We’ve done it – and it was super fun.

My heart is racing the entire ride back to the hotel for a quick breakfast. Surprisingly there’s an Egyptian Gal with a Chef’s badge working the omlet station! I’m so surprised – it’s one of the few women I’ve seen working since we got to Egypt. We start to chat and I tell her that my daughter and my granddaughter are also chefs! She asks about what they do – and without mention the animal – I explain that Adrienne used to butcher animals and use the meat to make sausages and that Anais is a running a bar and the head Mix-ologist. She says – say hello to them from a Chef in Egypt!

So Hello Adrienne and Anais from Chef Yasmine!

Now we regroup for the moments this tour has been working towards – visiting the tombs of the Valley of the Kings and the tombs in the Valley of the Queens.

Hussein explains that there are 32 tombs in ‘good’ condition in the valley of the Kings, but only 5 are open to visits each day. They rotate which of the 5 will be open – but always include one of the ‘Super Stars’! And he thinks 2 of the 5 of the ones open today are amazing!

But first we are starting with the place that King (Queen) Hapshepsut had built to be mummified. Imagine – this was built for just 40 days of use! And every Pharoah had one. Despite the efforts of her nephew to remove her name from the lists of Pharoahs, this survived quite intact – and was an amazing place to visit.

The outside is more amazing than the inside – but still – pretty cool. On the ground floor on the left side of the building (a 3 story hehemoth with a huge entrance staircase) are some well preserved carvings celebrating the Expedition to Punt – still with some of the original 4000 year old coloring). This is one of the few military victories for Hatshepsut – doesn’t it surprise you that she believed in compromise over the sword? We check those out, climb the steps up to the actually Temple, and then Hussein explains that because so many tourists visit these temples – as of 6 years ago – the government banned all guides from entering.

It was determined that having the guides in with their tour groups delayed folks from quickly leaving the inner chambers – and I have to admit that most folks move a lot faster when someone isn’t trying to get them to see a particular carving.

Hussein outlines the ‘top’ things to watch for – including the stunning blue sky with stars in the Santuary. I recognize and gleefully photograph the image celebrating the fact that this Pharoah ruled both upper and lower Egypt. It’s clearly Horus and Set holding ropes that knot around the spine (for stability) to the lungs. I particularly love the fact that in this rendition the feet of the Gods are so vividly pushing down on the lungs to get more pressure on the knot.

There are frequent occurances of the Lives Life slogan.

Unlike the paintings on the bottom floor – the carvings in the Santurary are High Relief and very well done. Given that her nephew tried to erase her – it’s a miracle that her Mortuary Temple survived.

I meet an Egyptian family wearing of all things – Disney attire! They pose for a picture with me – what fun!

Next stop – the Valley of the Kings. First stop Tomb of Ramses IV – and as Hussein predicted – it’s extraordinary.

One of my concerns has always been that the Valley of the Kings – because of the massive amount of tourists that visit it – will disappoint. I’m pleased to report that I was wrong. The carvings are truly magnificant – from the Book of the Dead carved into the walls to help the Pharoah’s Ka find it’s way to heaven to the stars on the ceiling to full color (4000 years old people) images of his attendance in different colored robes, to the magnificant ceiling – still highly colored.

I can’t read the Hieroglics – but I can admire them.

After all of Hussein’s efforts – I do recognize the symbol for Ra giving Life to the Pharoah!

The way into the tomb is fairly straight – and easy – and again guides are not allowed in so the stream of folks moves fairly quickly. Yet again I run into another Egyptian Family – also touring the tombs with their 1 year old son. Did I get a picture – of course!

Hussian challenged us to find the image of the sky – a woman bending at her hips and shoulders to protect the land. Her legs are firmly planted on the land, her hips to shoulder are the sky, and from the shoulders her arms reach back down to the earth. It’s a very powerful way of seeing the world.

There are also full colored carving of the Pharoah taking the boat thru the night to reach heaven. Not surprisingly – the carved boat looks very much like the one found near King Korfu at the GEM.

Hussein also challenged us to keep our eyes out for snakes – a re-occuring theme in tombs of this period. There are good and bad snakes of course – the good ones protect the Pharoah, the bad ones provide challenges he must overcome to get to Heaven.

One last challenge – see if you can find the ‘good’ people and the ‘bad’ people. The ‘good’ people are shown walking upright to greet their God, the ‘bad’ people are shown upside down, and sometimes headless on their way to Egyptian hell.

Our next tomb is the one created for the sons of Rameses II. Given that he had close to 50 sons – there were lots of folks to celebrate – and the tomb is fairly large.

We pause for a photo of the plaque showing where the tomb of King Tut Ankh Amun was found – they charge extra to enter the tomb ($20 US) – and Hussein warns us that it is small, crowded and empty. There are not even any carvings because he died so young.

We also get to visit the Tomb of Rameses VI – originally intended for Rameses V but quickly repurposed for Rameses VI. Like the one for Rameses IV – it’s covered with paintings – but the carvings at the top level are much less impressive and have been damaged. You have to continue walking downwards to get to the ‘good stuff’.

I particularly liked the carving showing Rameses VI on his throne and suplicants coming to him up a staircase. They represent the different tribes he had conquored! Again its the richness of the blue and yellow colors that is most surprising. How can artifical colors, created by chemist 4000 years ago have lasted so long?

In this tomb I easily find the upside down folks heading for their punishment – They are actually carved in Low Relief right below their more fortunately fellows heading to heaven!

This tomb goes on and on – as it spirals downward – the colors are better preserved and the carvings become High Relief – clearly the artists started at the lowest level.

Hussein explains that when the 40 days required to mummify the body was finished – all work immediately stopped on that Pharoah’s tomb, the body was sealed inside and the artists moved on to the tomb of the next Pharoah.

My favorite image in this tomb – just for the use of color – shows the Pharoah on his chair holding blue and white colored staffs crossed, a red sash that is tied and flows down to the hem of his robe, and an offering of a Lotus Flower.

At the lowest levels – this tomb is insanely beautifully decorated – and at the very lowest level there is the final burial chamber – with it’s images of the sky as a woman bent over the earth to protect it.

The colors and carvings at this level are breathtaking.

Without Hussein’s guidence I can only guess at the meanings – but I easily find the snakes – both good and bad, and the details are just wonderful.

We then visit the tomb of Rameses III – I do love the crocodile details and take a close up image of the Pharoah (identified by the snake shown on his forehead ready to spit posion at his enemies offering smoking incense to a God. I am reminded yet again that High Relief makes a huge difference!

There is also a surprising image of a large block of stone sliding down a ramp. Is this a hint at building techniques?

Did I mention the other Egyptian family I met who had brought their 2 year old son to view the tombs. Friday is a day off for Egyptians – which explains why today I’m meeting Egyptians among the hoards of Foreign Tourists!

We get back on the bus – and Hussein has a treat for us – the Egyptian version of Lays Potato chips! Yum!

We move on the Valley of the Queens – where we are offered access to two tombs. One has been severly damaged by water coming in over the years from the Nile, but the 2nd one is my personal favorite.

Unlike most tombs which just celebrate a Pharoah and at best have interesting scenes of the conquests marching towards the Pharoah with their hands tied behind their backs – this one has a very loving story to tell.

The Prince buried here was the Pharoah’s favorite and his death was a shock. So the images on the walls of the tomb show the father first telling his Queen that he will return and the son is shown walking behind the grieving couple. The young prince is identified by his side hairlock and the Ostrich feather he proudly carries. In another scene his father introduces him to the Gods, and in the last scene – the father is seen leaving the tomb with his son among the Gods.

I’m emotional just writing about this story. It is told so clearly and so beautifully.

Like the best of the tombs in the Valley of the Kings – the carvings are high relief, the colors brilliant and the story told well.

Our last tomb is the least impressive – although it is much more famous – it’s the tomb of Titi. Unfortunately the damage by the water seeping in and out of the tomb has destroyed the colors and made the carving hard to see. Because they are so damaged, glass panels have been placed over them – making them hard to see and a challenge to photograph.

We board our bus and head back to the hotel for a mixed grill lunch and an afternoon of leisure. Victor and I grab a nap – then try to take a walk outside. We manage to go in the wrong direction – so we quickly run out of anywhere to walk.

We are approached by two different gentlemen – who say that they remember seeing us at breakfast in the hotel.

Fortunately – Hussein had mentioned that this had become the newest ‘come-on’ – so we know to ignore them. But isn’t that funny – twice – about 5 minutes apart.

We return to the hotel, eat dinner – and go to bed. Later tonight (like 1:30 AM) we have to wake up, pack our bags, and check-out. We fly to Cairo at about 4:30 AM and definitely can’t be late.

Signing off for a few hours of rest – The Soup Lady

Reviewing the Santa Fe Retreat


So how do you really, really feel?

Such a great question. After a week of being way outside of the box – a new city, a new place to sleep, 8 new people – has anything changed?

Tabetha has challenged us to answer some questions – to give a bit of time and a bit of thought to what the retreat has meant to us – and I shall oblige her – and blog about it!

Here are her list of mentally challenging questions…

  1. What aspects of the retreat environment helped you feel connected (to yourself, to others, to your art, to your source?)
  2. What aspects of the retreat helped you to feel safe?
  3. What/who inspired you?
  4. How can you create or recreate that kind of space (connected, safe and inspirational) for yourself at home?
  5. What part of the creative process felt most freeing or energizing?How can you bring more of that energy into your everyday life?
  6. What was the most transformative moment for you during the retreat?How did that experience shift your perspective or open you up to new possibilities?
  7. What emotions surfaced during the retreat, and how do you feel about them now?What did those emotions teach you?
  8. What personal or creative insights emerged for you during the retreat?How can you use these insights to guide the next steps in your creative journey or life path?
  9. What challenges or resistance did you encounter on the retreat?What did they teach you about yourself, and how can you navigate similar challenges moving forward?
  10. What new habits or practices from the retreat would you like to incorporate into your life?How will you ensure you make time and space for these practices?
  11. Looking back at the retreat, what are you most grateful for?

Question 1: What aspects of the retreat environment helped you feel connected (to yourself, to others, to your art, to your source.?

When I was in Santa Fe at the Ranch – I felt very connected to the sun and the shadows of Santa Fe/New Mexico. The light was so bright, the shadows so dark and the lines between so clean and sharp. I simply love light like that – it stirs my soul I think. I hated leaving because I knew I was going back to cold and damp and grey. Of course Montreal didn’t disappoint me – but that’s not a surprise. So the openness of the Ranch, the walls that weren’t really walls, the doors that weren’t really doors – all of that made me feel connected to the outside even when I was inside – and I love that feeling.

The ease with which folks moved from one area of the Ranch to another also made for an interesting feeling of connection. Some rooms even had passages thru them – and connectivity happened in an unforced and very natural way. There was always someone to talk with – and it was equally easy to find quiet spots where others steered clear. This of course works best when the weather is lovely – and thank goodness – the weather in Santa Fe was amazing.

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 2: What aspects of the retreat helped you to feel safe?

I’m guessing this about feeling safe to relax and be yourself – and for that I’d say – Tabetha and the other retreat folks. When the folks around you are feeling safe to share – you feel safe to share too.

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 3: Who/What Challenged you?

My good feelings about the light, the sun, the heat – made me want to capture those feelings – and since I’m not a great artist – I felt very challenged by my intense desire to create something/anything that captured that joy and relaxed feeling.

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 4: How can you create that space/feeling at home?

I can’t. And I tried. I come closer on St. Croix – similar light, similar heat – similar relaxation – but without other people going – ‘now is time to do art’ – I find myself distracted by life.

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 5: What part of the creative process felt most freeing. How can you bring that feeling into your daily life?

Since I left the retreat – 18 months ago – I’ve experimented with other kinds of art – and I found my greatest focus doing medium sized Zentangles on – of all things – the lids from Swifter Wet Containers. They are clear plastic – and quite stiff. I painted them white, then drew on images, then Zentangled inside the drawings. Such fun! Of course I painted the white other colors – generally a sea green that just felt relaxing. And right now – I’m being creative by writing – first about that retreat – and then about my lastest crazy trip – to Egypt and Jordan. In fact, right now I’m actually sitting on the roof terrace of our hotel, listening to kids swimming in the pool and watching the Nile flow past. What a busy river!

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 6: Most Transformative Moment?

Chatting with one of the fellow participants who explained to me that I thrive on the energy of a group of people. Left alone, I retreat into myself, but put me into a group and I’m more alive, energetic, and happy. And siting here on the roof of our hotel in Cario, I’m thinking – yup – so true.

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 7: Emotions?

During the retreat – I felt inspired and relaxed. A marvelous combination for creating art. And I felt very focused – which is part of the reason I started doing art anyway. I love how I feel when I’m focused – at work or at play – hence Competitive Bridge, Programming Computers, Developing IT Solutions to ERP problems. Focus is Fun. I like doing my blog for the same reason – Being Focused makes me happy. And I love being happy.

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 8: Personal or Creative Insights?

During the retreat – my big learning moment was that insight into how I pull energy from a group (in a good way I hope). Since the retreat I’ve become more aware of how absolutely goal driven I am. I wanted to earn my Life Master’s in Bridge. And for 5 years I did everything I could to achieve that goal. I studied techniques, I played countless hands, and traveled to Regional and National Competitions. I play on-line daily, had a list of potential partners all lined up – and there was rarely a day where I didn’t play at least 2 games. Then in September of 2024 – I got my Life Masters. And suddenly – I didn’t really feel like playing bridge. My drive was gone. Goal achieved, check that off – move on.

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 9: Challenges during the retreat?

I know that I’m not really very artistic – I enjoy the focus, I love doing the art and creating images that convey how I’m feeling – and I really like creating useful items – hence the fun of painting the lids of Swifter Boxes. They make great bedside trays to keep stuff from staining wood. So ignoring my self-defined limitations and moving on to be creative – that’s tough. Actually – it’s getting started that’s the hardest thing. So many distractions!

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 10: New Habits and how to make space for them?

Oh Tabetha – that’s a really tough question. I’m not sure that I came up with new habits, and I’m pretty certain that I didn’t make space for them. If anything – my artistic push rather peaked in St. Croix in 2025 – and I’ve found it increasing challenging to make time to do ‘art’ since then. Zentangle, because it’s faster and easier to prep and finish (often under an hour) – is the easier choice, so I have found time to do that – not daily however. I did however find time daily to do Yoga. And that has been very inspiring. And to force that habit – I just guilted myself when I didn’t spend the 20 minutes each AM doing Yoga. This said – I had a major collapse in January 2026 – I caught Flu-A, which knocked me flat – got a transfer of 1 litre of water (I was super dehydrated), and eventually ended up with Pneumonia. My sister helped pull me thru – but now it’s a month later and I’ve done no Yoga and no Painting – not even Zentangle. About time to get my life back on track!

(Feb 4, 2026) Question 11: What am I most grateful for?

Health and Happines – Family and Friends of course!

Signing off to change gears and start writing up my Bucket List trip to Egypt and Jordan

The Soup Lady

Nov 14 – A Religious High and a Fabulous Hotel – Day 13


6 Years, 6 months, 6 weeks, 6 days, 6 hours, 6 minutes.

As per Rio – That’s how long a Tibetan Monk meditates to ascend to a higher rank. There’s also a 3 year, 3 month, 3 week, 3 day, 3 hour, 3 minute option to obtain a lower rank. In case you are interested.

We start today with a visit to the beautiful Tibetan Monastery that is about 1/4 of the way up that same winding road we’ve been taking – over and over again.

But this time after a hair-raising drive thru town, we pull into the unearthly quiet of a lovely Monastery perched on a flat piece of ground on the Nepal side of the road.

Rio – who is Tibetan – walks us thru the Monastery. We spin the prayer wheels waking slowly from wheel to wheel and concentrating on our thoughts and we see the ‘Monk’ only residence for Monk who are doing a mediation – 6 years, 6 months, 6 weeks, 6 days, 6 hours, 6 minutes – with only one acolyte in attendance to help as he needs it.

There is a yearly Retreat held here with hundreds of Tibetans seeking enlightenment held here in the Retreat Hall, and housing cascading down the hillside for the younger monks in training or I suppose the folks who come on Retreat. There is no question that this is a power point in the world. Even I can feel that this is a very special place.

It is the oldest Tibetan Monastery in the world. There are others that are much fancier – but this was the first. And it’s obvious why.

We take the required photos, and eventually leave. We still must drive to Darjeeling, check-into our next hotel, and eat lunch at the fancy restaurant I’ve been promised!

By Helmut’s mapping app – we should be about 1 hr from Darjeeling – and we can even see it across the valley. It looks close enough to touch, but nothing is as it seems in this part of the world!

I suppose it’s not a surprise to be told that while the crow flies, Darjeeling is very close, by car it’s a lot lot further. And when we finally reach the outskirts of Darjeeling we find out why.

One of the Major Political Figures is coming TODAY to open a new outdoor shopping experience, with many small booths dedicated to selling hand-made product from each province in India. There’s music, there are flags, there are dancers, drummers and singers, and there is no driving thru!

Our driver has to stop at each of the barricades to explain he’s got guests who are going to the Elgin. That name clearly holds power because each time he uses it – the Barriers go down, and we are waved or saluted thru! Hmmm – I’m wondering what the Elgin is?

Eventually (1.5 hrs – anyone surprised) we arrive at a lovely wrought iron gate manned by a gentleman in uniform. Our driver explains who we are – and we are saluted thru the gate and into a driveway that ends at one of the most beautiful hotels I’ve ever seen.

Originally built over 125 years ago (1887) – it’s been maintained in the traditional style except for the addition of modern plumbing – including a huge deep Bathtub, and Room heaters.

We’re greeted – offered a drink – and given a small gift to welcome us to the hotel. Photo’s dot the walls reflecting the glorious past of this hotel, and there is staff ready to escort us to our rooms.

My room is warm and huge. Actually about 3 or 4 times the size of my room at the HomeStay – and with the most beautiful thing I’ve seen in a week. A bathtub. I’m not alone about focusing on the bathtub – I no sooner get into my room than I get a photo from Andrea – it’s Helmut in the Bathtub!

We regroup – and head out to lunch. Rio knows the way (of course – I think he knows the way everywhere) and we find ourselves in the middle of the main shopping street and smack dab in the center of the crowd gathering to greet the arriving Politician Mamata Banerjee. I immediately get distracted by a group of dancers in lovely Saris – and Andrea gets sent to find me and drag me back to the group! (Sigh)

We walk thru the town to a restaurant called Glenary – it was originally a pastry shop – and has morphed into a 3 story Restaurant, Pastry Shop, Bar that is a popular favorite. And it serves Steak.

Rio basically tells us – you must order the steak, so we do. I also try to order something fried. I’ve discovered that the fried foods tend to agree better with my stomach, and after several attempts – waiter takes the order, returns to say – we’re out, takes another order – returns to say we’re out – until finally I ask – well what do you have – and it’s the Chinese style fried chicken that is available.

We relax, have drinks – they have a choice of beer – Helmut is so happy. This part of India isn’t alcohol free – but it’s been a challenge to source beer – and this time he gets to choose! First time since we arrived that there’s been not only beer, but a choice of beers.

Our Chinese fried chicken arrives – and it’s perfect. I’d have been perfectly happy with just that for lunch. The steaks are served – and my doubts are in fact set in front of me. This isn’t steak, although I’ll agree that it’s beef. It’s just a much larger serving of what I’d call pot roast than the one we got the other evening at the HomeStay.

We do our best, but no one can finish their potion – even with Helmut taking 1/2 of Andrea’s. So after some discussion – Rio takes the remainder back with him. I think his plan is to feed the ‘homeless’ dogs that live near his HomeStay – because he’s let the car go with his 2nd in command. They have to go pick up a new guest from Bagdogra Airport. Rio is going home by public transport.

He insists on walking us back to the hotel – I think they think we will get lost if we wander outside of their protective vision – and we say good-bye.

We opt to return to our rooms and give those bathtubs a good hard workout. I actually wash my hair TWICE. I’d been making do with a washcloth and a quick wipe because the room was so cold. But with a warm bathtub, a proper bathroom and – wow – a Bathrobe – well, I’m ready to get comfy.

We opt to meet at 7:30 for a drink in the bar of the hotel. And you can envision the Raj arriving to greet folks.

It reminds me of scenes from the movie – The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. At one point they go into a private club – and I promise you – this could have been where they filmed that section.

I’m so relaxed that I make the beginning traveler’s mistake of ordering a Pina Colada. Silly me – of course they can’t make one. What was I thinking! But I’m so happy and so warm and so clean I don’t really care. We chat, go over some of our adventures, and basically say good-bye.

Tomorrow I’m leaving – starting my journey home while Helmut and Andrea will continue the adventure – several days in Darjeeling to explore, than visits to Gangtok, Pelling, the Rabdanste ruins, Ravangla, Kalimpong, Sunderbans National Park, Corbett National Park, and the Corbett Tiger Reserve. I know they will have a blast, but I’m ready to head back home.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 13 – Singalila National Park – Day 12


Last day – we NEED a Red Panda!

And we wake to the good news – the spotters have one and we need to go NOW!

This time I’m determined to brave the Bamboo Forest.. but first I must brave the ride up the Mountain. This just doesn’t get easier.

To comfort me – Rio promises that tomorrow – our travel day – will feature a visit to a Tibetan Monastery in Nepal – and the best Resturant in Darjeeling.

Deal!

Final the jeeps stop at the closest trail into the Red Panda’s location – and we all jump (well – I slowly slide) out of the jeep and start the climb. The spotters have been holding the Panda in his tree – it’s a juvenile- not the same one spotted two days ago – but in the same location.

I’m the tail of the line – Andrea is moving at full speed, with Helmut close behind her but I’m just trying not to hurt myself.

I have on my good Utah ‘boot’s’ with their deep rubber cut soles, and a hiking stick for my right hand. I need to be sure that my right knee doesn’t take any twisting.

Mingmar is sticking to me like glue. We hike past the point that I ‘quit’ last time – and follow the narrow track (about 6” wide – not a typo – 6 inches wide) into the bamboo forest.

As before – the bamboo is so dense here that you can’t see more than a few feet ahead – but I’ll be honest – my view is my FEET! I put each foot down carefully, making sure I’m steady on that foot before shifting to the next.

The path is up and down small but steep terrain. Maybe 5 steps down, two steps across a muddy patch, then 5 steps up. 2 steps across the top of the ridge, then 5 steps down. Repeat.

I don’t think I’m scared – but my heart rate would disagree with that. I’m going slowly – but super carefully – and my heart rate is going up and up. It’s mostly the adrenaline and the Altitude combined to fuel my increasing heart rate, not really the exercise.

We are suddenly very close to the Panda sighting – and we stop to decide where everyone else is standing. The team with me starts whistling – and we hear whistles coming back at us.

There’s one problem – At least for me. I can’t tell where the returning whistles are coming from!

Apparently Mingmar is also having trouble deciding – since he tells me NOT TO MOVE – and goes in first one direction, and then the other.

I am most definitely not moving.

If I got lost – I don’t know how to whistle!

Suddenly the team with Andrea and Helmut appears. The Panda has changed trees – he came down the tree, ran within inches of Helmut (there are BIG animals – so think a large large large dog with a really long tail) and then disappeared.

The decision is to re-group and wait to see if the trackers can spot the new location.

So we wait. I’m actually glad – I need to get my heart rate back down.. It’s at about 148 BPM – and I know if I just stop and do my Yoga breathing – I’ll be fine. But I have to stop.

We stand quietly in the forest – listening and occasionally whispering as Helmut and Andrea fill me in on what happened. Apparently they spotted the Red Panda and started taking pictures when it ran down the tree and within inches of Helmut to disappear into the forest.

Eventually my heart rate goes back to normal (under 100 BPM), and the trackers return. Bad news – they can’t find him. Imagine it – he’s huge, he’s red, and you can’t see him!

Rio explains that the Panda will curl into a ball in the fork of a tree hidden by the moss and ferns – and they are invisible.

Back to plan B

While Andrea and Helmut are disappointed – I’m so thrilled I made the climb I can’t stand it! And Rio comments on how well I did – he actually says – you must have done a lot of climbing in the past. You are a BadAss!

Hee, Hee – I’m definitely not sharing my heart rate with him… I’ll just say thank you – and get myself out of the forest.

I think Mingmar wanted me to need more help!

We get back to the jeeps – and the decision is to drive to the top of the Mountain – because it’s there – and because we’re going to eat Lunch on the top of the Mountain.

If I thought the road was curvy and rough before – I under estimated the effect weather has on these roads. The road to this point was smooth as a baby’s bottom in comparison to what we are now bouncing along on!

We are going from 8,000 feet to 10,000 feet. And the road is basically large unfinished stones that have been laid down and filled in with mud. Even walking on the road would be a challenge – driving it in 4×4 Jeeps is beyond exciting.

Since it’s getting towards noon – the mist has rolled in – and there is nothing to see on the left or the right. Sheer cliffs drop into the mist on both sides as we climb. There are trekking tracks crossing the path (I’m not calling this a road – and neither would you).

Serious Trekkers routinely make this climb – and we pass several small groups on our way up, and up, and up. There are at least three small clusters of buildings – HomeStays, mini-stores, and small square buildings labeled ‘Toilet’ along the route as well.

I peaked into one of the Toilets – they are squat toilets of ceramic- but I suspect that underneath is a Pit. I’ll bet they just move the ‘toilet’s’ each season.

Occasionally there are religious points – recognizable by the 5 color flags draped in banners everywhere – Red for Fire, Blue for Water, White for Purity, Yellow for Sun, Green for Earth. Rio explains that when a Tibetan (Hindu) wants a special favour they will buy a series of these banners and hang them in a spiritual spot. Some are very old, most are newer. But the locations are specific – points of power I’m willing to bet.

We continue up eventually stopping at the Mount Everest view point – but the mist is too thick to see the Mountain. We do however see Yaks.

At the top of the top there is another Military Encampment – and again we must check-in. Then we wander around and eventually go inside to eat Lunch. Guess what’s on the menu…

Did you guess Rice and Chicken! Good for you!

I get a Fanta – my stomach is roiling from the adrenaline of the climb, the twisting of the road, and the altitude. Never has ANYTHING tasted so good.

We are blessed with an occasional clearing moment – but basically the sky is white. In the photographs it looks as if we are standing in front of a Photographers Backdrop – it’s so evenly colored and smooth. Check out today’s photo.. taken at 10,000 feet and looking towards Mount Everest – notable in it’s NOT THERE!

It took 1.5 hours to make the climb. It will take us 3 hours to get down.

I hug Helmut and Andrea – and tell them that words simply can’t describe how happy I am to have been able to do this.

I don’t care that I’m cold, I don’t care that I didn’t see a Red Panda, I don’t care (much) that I didn’t get to see Mount Everest – I have challenged myself and done what I wanted to do!

I am so so so happy.

I’m even willing to use the squat toilet before we start the ride back down!

Since this is our last trip into the Park – we need to stop at each of the Check-points to a) check out for today, and b) check-out completely. At one of the check-points – there’s no solider on duty. So Rio has to go to camp and actually call out. Eventually a solider appears – and apparently understands that we are foreigners checking out.

Back at the ‘low’ altitude of 8,000 feet – we drive thru town – and I spot a chicken butcher. He’s got a whole chicken on a chopping block – and he’s using a Machete to cut it up!

Well – that explains all the bones and random appearing pieces.

Tonight Andrea and Helmut go out and spot a Flying Squirrel. He’s huge – and he does FLY! Well – not fly exactly – kinda spread his legs and arms and coast downward – but it’s very cool.

I’m warming up on my heated mattress pad.. glad to be warm again.

For dinner – Abi makes Biryani for us – he’s the cook in his family – with Chicken of course. It’s delicious. And there’s lovely Sauces to go with it.

We chat, compare photos, and basically say good bye. Tomorrow Abi will leave early for the long drive to Bagdogra Airport, and we will head to Darjeeling. But before we part – we want to be sure to exchange contact information so that we can remain friends.

Eventually it’s not only past my bedtime – it’s past everyone else’s too – and we head downstairs to our beds.

Tomorrow will again be a long day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 12 – Singalila National Park – Day 11


Today starts just like yesterday – Dog Fight, Yoga, Breakfast, Crazy drive up the Mountain.

But unlike yesterday – No Red Panda Sightings.

We wait, and wait – change locations – Wait and Wait.

We get silly and start climbing onto the top of the Jeep for a photo opportunity – check it out on my website – MontrealMadame.com

Lunch – and back down the Mountain.

Sigh

Not to be defeated – Andrea and Helmut decide to go Owl hunting (with cameras). There are also HUGE flying Squirrels here to see – if the team can spot one.

I opt to try to warm up. I’m telling you – I NEED Electric Socks – and a proper sweater. These Mountains get seriously cold when that mist comes in.

What surprises me are the folks who live here. I never got a specific answer as to whether or not they spend the winters in these houses – but it must be very cold. They are still walking around in flip-flops and layers of sweaters. All the houses we’ve seen – either finished or being built – do not have insulation. Nor what we’d call sources of heat other than wood burning fireplaces.

Even the Military Stations appear to not to have insulation in the walls.

I guess if you were born and/or raised here – this would be the norm. But I still find it surprising.

Rio points out again that while the Indian side of the Mountain is fully treed – the Nepal side is tree-less from over cutting. The lack of trees makes the folks who live here have to go far for firewood – and on the Nepal side, I suspect that this means that they are clear-cutting further and further down the Mountain.

My highlight picture of the day – beside us on the Jeep – is a lady making Ghee (clarified butter) on a wood fire. At least she’s warm.

Back to the Owl Hunt – when Andrea and Helmut return – they report spotting 4 Brown Owls – which is confirmed by the British Couple who are sharing our HomeStay with us. But no Flying Squirrels. So they decide to go back out tomorrow night.

Early to bed – which is lovely and warm.

I’m betting on a dog fight again tonight though…

Signing off – The Soup Lady