Category Archives: Dining out!

Egypt and Jordan – Day 18- Feb 19, 2026


Well yesterday was Amazing – between the Treasury, the Royal Tombs and the insanely beautiful Siq – Petra was clearly worth the trip.

But now we’re heading out. Again it’s an early start – but since I managed to look at the map, and realize how far we are down South in Jordan – I’m not surprised. It’s early because we have a very LONG way to go.

But first an aside. We all know that Moses spent 40 years wandering the desert, but unfortuately – he didn’t leave a map of his journey. So there are countless places in Jordan that assure tourists that “Moses Slept Here”.

In fact – the town that we spent the night is in is called Wadi Musa – Valley of Moses. And there are apparently endless number of towns with similar names – the idea is that this is where Moses struck the stone that got him in so much trouble – he was supposed to ‘Speak’ to it – not ‘Hit’ it!

Osama tells us that while we could visit some of these towns – it’s rather fruitless – there’s no evidence to suggest exactly where this happened – but we are very sure where Moses went up the mountain to get his peak at the Promised Land before he died – and that is Mount Nebo.

Osama told us the first day that he rates toliet stops – from 1 to 5 stars, with 6 stars reserved for the really over the top options. And we have a 5 star version at the halfway point of our trip North to Mount Nebo.

It turns out that this is exactly the same place we stopped on the way from the airport to Petra – and it does deserve the 5 star label. Lovely bathroom. But more importantly to me – it also has really really good Coffee.

Victor and I managed not to get coffee before the bus pulled out of Wadi Musa – and I’m feeling the need for some caffine – and this lovely bathroom/Coffee Shop fits the bill. Yum.

Not surprisingly but reminding me strongly of those gift shops in Disney World that you have to walk thru when you exit a ride – to get to the toilets from the front door you have to walk the sales option guantlet.

The trick – don’t touch anything. If you even stroke a rug, or finger a gold plated dish, or pick-up a figurine – a salesman will appear like a geni out of a lamp. It’s Jordan, not Egypt – so they are very polite – but very present. You touched – you must want to buy. So moral – don’t touch. Walk straight to the toliet (and it is 5 stars – which means it’s clean, there is a seat on the toilet, the flush works – and – the best part – there’s toliet paper. And they don’t even charge!), do what you need to do – and walk straight back out.

I had to detour for my coffee – but that didn’t set off the sales team. It’s when I touched a lambs fur coat wondering who would wear such a thing here in Jordan – where in the dead of winter it gets down to say 70 degrees – or maybe even a frightening – don’t let the kids out – 50 degrees. Sigh – I touched – and had to tell the very cute, very pleasant salesman – I just wondered why anyone would buy such a thing.

Of course I led with “I’m sorry” – I am Canadian after all.

Back on the luxury bus – we continue to drive North – admiring the numerous small and mid-sized businesses along the way. They look modern, and busy. What a change from Egypt where the only ‘businesses’ we saw were run by the Military. I looked it up – apparently 75% of the GNP of Egypt is generated by Military related businesses – leaving the middle class in Egypt without work. Officially Egypt has a 6.1% unemployement rate – but that doesn’t seem correct when you see the number of men just hanging around. In Jordan – we haven’t seen unemployed men just ‘hanging’ – everyone – including the omni-present vendors – seems gainfully and in many cases rather joyfully employed. It’s a huge and obvious difference between the two countries. That and the garbage. Almost none in Jordan, and the garbage is piled deep in Egypt. But back to the bus ride.

Osama shows us how to put the red and white shemagh. This is a large square piece of cloth with a distinctive pattern and often seen with tassels on the corners. It is generally worn wrapped around the head and sometimes held in place by a black cord. It is considered a national symbol of Jordan, representing pride, heritage, and the Bedouin culture. Osama goes on to tell us that it is extremely popular in Jordan because King Hussein wore it, as does his son (the current King) and his grandson (the future king). Odessey bought one for each of us – and lots of us are sporting it today. I bet that’s why the lesson – we really had no idea how to tie it. I continue to wear it as a scarf. The last thing I want is a large cotton cloth wrapped around my head. How can this be cooler?

As we get closer to Amman, the traffic gets a bit more intense – and we start passing sheep and goat herders minding their flocks. Some are flocks are small, some flocks are a tad larger – but all the animals look very healthy – and there is lots of greenery for them to eat. Osama explains that Northern Jordan gets anywhere from 14” to 24” of rain a year – a very good thing since the only other sources of water are natural springs. Further North Jordan borders the Jordan River and of course the Dead Sea – but neither is a really good souce of fresh water. They rely on those springs and the rain.

On the top of all the houses and appartment buildings in Amman are white tanks for water. Once a week for 2 hours everyone gets their share of water from the springs and it is piped directly into those tanks. Then each home must ration the water for the week. If they run out – they will need to buy water (expensive) – or do without.

Osama is very proud of his country – and shares with us their medical success story. They have a free public heath system for all Jordanians – but there is a private health system that caters to folks from the other Gulf States. He thinks their medical system is 4 stars – and says – yes you might have to wait 30 minutes to see a Doctor – but the care is very good.

The compares incredibly favorably with what we learned of the Egyptian medical system where much much longer waits are the norm. And honestly – the difference in the appearance of the hospitals is remarkable. In Egypt they are older buildings with hundreds of folks standing around outside – simply waiting. In Jordan, the hospitals – public or private, are modern – and we never saw any waiting lines.

After our 4 hour ride – we arrive and Mount Nebo. Fortunately, we don’t have to climb it like 100+ year old Moses did. The bus drives us up and we are in a huge parking lot (I think they are expecting lots of visitors). There is a tiny museum, and then we are in the courtyard of a beautiful church. Osama takes us around the side – and there – directly across from the entrance to the church is the view of the Promised Land. It’s not terribly clear today – but we can easily see the top of the Dead Sea, and beyond it the hills and valleys of Isreal.

The symbol of this place is a staff with a serpent coiled around it – the universal sign of healing – and indeed my Doctor’s buttons (1812 Regency Period) feature exactly the same coiled snake.

Inside the Basilica of Moses there is a fabulous mosaic that was saved from the destruction of all images during the Iconoclasm in 754. The priest got word of what was happening to all the mosaics and painted icons and got the brilliant idea to save this mosaic by covering it up with sand and then having another mosaic with just simple patterns put on top.

Then folks seemed to have forgotten that the priest had made this happen – and the mosaic remained hidden until work was done on the church floor in the 1800’s.

Imagine their surprise!

The mosaic is simply stunningly beautiful. It tells the story of what life was like before and after the birth of Jesus. Before Jesus, man hunted animals freely – you can see the blood from a Lion being speared. Then there is a gap indicating the birth of Jesus, and the Mosaic afterwards shows a very different world. Animals and Man live in peace under the trees of peace – the Pomegrante and the Olive tree. There is even a very detailed image of two men, one white, one black. Independently they are both leading animals, a camel, a horse, an Ostrich. Osama uses that image to explain that he thinks there is room for everyone in the world.

Then he takes us to a place that actually makes Mosaics today. We go into the Mosaic’s workroom where 8 folks are seated carefully putting tiny stones one by one into a frame that will become the desired image.

Our host explains the technique. You start with the drawing of the finished design reversed onto a piece of cloth. The cloth is put into a frame that hold the cloth stiffly and the artist creates the design by using tweezers to pick up each stone, dip it into a paste of water and flour that is sticky, and then places the stone. Repeat again and again and again. It can take several months to create a really large, very small stone design like a tree of life, or only a hour to create a smaller design using larger stones. The stones are all Granite, gotten from folks who make kitchen counters and the like – left over pieces work just fine. Before the artists start, the large stones are cut into thin strips with a stone saw, and then the artists creates the smaller pieces using the same cutting tool I used when I was doing Stained Glass.

When the piece is done – you are looking at the back of the Mosaic, and it’s very bumpy since the pieces aren’t even close to exactly the same size. But that helps make the finished piece last. The next step has someone taking the finished art, spreading a really good glue layer on a proper frame, and then carefully flipping the art so the ‘top’ lines up within the frame.

Wait until the glue dries, then carefully remove the cloth by adding water to disolve the sticky layer. You reveal the Mosaic – right side up this time!

Our host explains that this workshop and the rug making workshop are all part of buisnesses started in Jordan by Queen Noor with Foreign help, primarly USAid. They are extremely proud of their connection to the US – and display the brand IDs of some of their sponsors. Because of their relationship with DHL – they can even provide free shipping. This is important because rugs and tables are very heavy!

Now we are led into their sales room. If you show any interest at all – a lovely sales person is quickly glued to your side. They work on commission of course – and we were quite taken with the young woman (single mother, 2 kids) who wants to help us pick something to send home.

Yeah – we folded. Come visit us in NOTL if you want to see what we bought.

We leave the shop – and finally enter Amman proper. It’s the capital of Jordan, and a much smaller city. But it is also a very very lovely city cascading as it does over 7 hills. I actually think that number is wrong – it’s more like 14 or more hills – but Osama defends their use of 7 by saying is a lucky number – like the 7 hills of Rome. So just let it go.

We are staying in a lovely Hyatt for 2 nights – and tonight we are on our own for dinner. There are options in the city and in the hotel – but Victor is still feeling under the weather, and I’m not exploring on my own – so we opt to just eat a quick dinner in the hotel lounge (steak sandwhich – I’m so happy).

Tonight is the first night of Ramadan. Osama explained this on our bus ride as well. The muslims follow the lunar calendar with no corrections – so Ramadan moves about 10 days a year. The start of Ramadan is determined by when the head Iman of each country sees the Cresent Moon – and it was overcast just a bit around the part of the sky where the moon would appear the first night we were in Jordan, so Ramadan didn’t start. It did start in Egypt and Saudi Arabia because their Imans could see the cresent moon. Jordan’s Iman only saw the Cresent moon the night before – so today was the first day of Ramadan.

When we drove thru the city of Amman – I saw crowds of men buying what appeared to be pancakes from bakeries. I asked Osama and he confirmed my guess – these pancakes are special for Ramadan. Naturally – I want to try some.

He’s going to see what he can do tomorrow. He’s also going to try to get Victor and I into a proper grocery store. We love walking the aisles of a grocery store – so I’ve definitely got my hopes up for tomorrow.

Tonight it’s that Steak Sandwich and bed. How can riding all day in a bus tired you out so much? Mystery to me.

Signing off – the Soup Lady

Egypt and Jordan – Day 16 – Feb 17, 2026


6:00 AM – time to get up, grab coffee and breakfast – and get to the airport. I’m quite excited – While I couldn’t wait to see the Pyramids and Egypt – Petra was huge on our bucket list – and finally we are getting to go.

Thank goodness for the Odyessy folks. They do a tag team to get us into the airport, thru the layer upon layer of security checks including another full body pat down and to our gate in plenty of time. That seems to be an Odyessy objective. Make sure they are never late to anything!

Andrea and I decide to walk the airport – and find the most interesting thing – Two white modular ‘containers’ that hold a bed, a mirror, a shelf and a bit of space for a carry-on. Emergency sleeping arrangements in the airport. Perfect!

Even more interesting – because we are so close to Ramadan – there are folks of folks heading to Mecca. They are dressed all in white, and many of them are wearing cloth signs that say things like “Heavenly Tour”. We smile and wave, they smile and wave back.

When we get to Jordan, Osma – our Odessey Guide for the Jordan portion of the trip explains that going to Mecca on Pilgramage is one of the 5 pillars of Islam.

Our flight goes painlessly – and we are met as soon as we clear the security area of the airport. So much better than our arrival in Cairo. I’m already loving Jordan.

As I mentioned – our new guide is Osma – and he seems really nice. And quickly tells us – I’m Jordanian – I always have a Plan!

His plan for today is for us to get on our bus (which is ours for our entire stay – so we can leave stuff inside), and start heading out of Amman. Our first stop is Madaba – a favorite stop for pilgrams to the Holy Land starting around 100 AD. There is a mosiac map of the sites of the Holy Land – including the Dead Sea, Jalem, Bethlehem, the Jordan River, Jericho, Jocob’s Well, Mount Sinai, the Nile Delta, Karak, St. Lot’s Monastery and Hebron. About 1/2 of it was destroyed in an earthquake in 790 AD, which is often the reason for destruction in Jordan. That was some Earthquake for sure.

The map is – as advertised – marvelous. It’s in Greek because that was the common language of tourists at that time. And it’s of course vividly decorated except for the places that were considered ‘offensive’ by the Catholic Church when it was decided to destroy all the icons and all recognizable figures for fear that they would distract men from their worship. We’ll hear more about both the earthquake and the distruction of icons later.

It’s finally time for lunch – and it is in a marvelous restaurant. Family owned and operated – the mother who was a good home chef but not a restaurantur by any means – got a grant from USAid. They trained her how to run a kitchen, bought her the equipment to make her recipes in larger quantities, helped her enlarge her restaurant to seat over 100 – and publish a cook book. The food lived up to Osama’s description – yummy! Victor was particularly fond of the Zatar coved crisp Pita strips and he of course bought her cookbook after checking out several of the recipes. I’m looking forward to some really interesting meals when we get home but first Victor says we’ll have to find some Zatar. Putting that on the shopping list.

After lunch we continue our drive to Petra. We arrive just in time to check-in and go for dinner in the hotel. We are staying in the Movenpick – and it’s right across the street from the entrance to Petra. I’m getting excited.

Time for bed – it’s another early morning tomorrow, but at least there’s no bus or plane ride to take.

Signing off to sleep! The Soup Lady

Egypt and Jordan – Day 12 – Feb 14, 2026


Another insanely early start day! That’s 2 in a row – tough on these old bones – but it is what I signed up for – so I’ll pull up my big girl pants and bravely head out into the dark.

Our destination is Cairo – and everything goes smoothly. Thank goodness for the Odyessy Folks – they really have this streamlined. We re-group at a completely unreasonable hour in the lobby, grab coffee or tea or hot water from the hotel staff who also had to get up early, grab our ‘to go’ breakfast bags – and board a bus for the 45 minute trip to the Luxor Airport.

The streets are empty – but the airport is packed. There are layers upon layers of security. First stop – we seperate into women’s and men’s lines – We are told to carry only our passports – Everything else goes thru the scanners. And then we walk thru a human scanner – and everyone gets a pat down. They even make us put our legs up on a block and they pat them down. There is a woman doing the patting on the ladies side, and a man for the man’s side.

Then we get to the check-in counter – wait in line to check-in, then we go to the security system (Men vs Women division and another full body pat down this one with shoes off), and finally we are at the gate level. All these checks – and we are only flying Domestic – Egypt Air from Luxor to Cairo.

The plane is packed, not an empty seat to be had. But at least we are all able to get on the plane. Hussein warned us that sometimes groups are bumped to later flights if they arrive late at the check-in counter. But we dodged that bullet.

Even so the flight is delayed, and we get a late start. No matter – Hussein has plans that he can flex to make sure we get to see everything we were told we’d see in Cairo.

The other option is the train from Luxor to Cairo – a distance of about 500 miles. But the train takes 13 hours! The train from Montreal to Toronto, a distance of 600 miles, takes a bit over 4 hours – and we’re screaming that this is extremely slow. Well – it’s not slow in comparison, that’s for sure.

Anyway – we have a quick flight and uneventful flight – and we land in Cairo. Our first experience with the Cairo Airport wasn’t great – but this time we are firmly in Hussein’s hands. His cheerful ‘Follow Me’ gets us out of security to baggage claim. There’s a heart stopping few moments when everyone elses luggage has arrived – and ours is MIA. But then the baggage conveyer begins to spin again – and out pop our Bags.

Whew.

We walk out of baggage claim to our bus without anyone asking if they can help us, and we are on our way to our first stop in Record Time. I’m impressed. There are clearly advantages to being with a well organized tour group like Odyessey!

The Citidel in Old Cairo was built in response to the Crusades – The rulers of Egypt wanted to defend themselves, but in fact the feared invasions never happened, and the Citidel was never used. It does remain today as the Egyptian reminder of the Crusades. In the courtyard of the Citidel is a Mosque built like Turkish Aga Sophia except they used Alebastor for the walls. Inside it is stunningly beautiful.

Right now it’s being refurbished, so while all visitors either cover their shoes or remove them, we were allowed in to get a better feel for the place. Among the planned refurmishments are new carpets, so the old carpets have been removed, giving the giagantic inside a clean and very relaxed feel. I’m also impressed by the view of Old Cairo from the Balcony that runs the entire width of the Mosque.

We take a short bus ride down to the ‘old Bazzar’ area of Cairo. It feels a lot like the Bazzar in Fez – except all the vendors are hawking tourist items. But the narrow alley ways and the tiny size of the shops definitely brings home that Bazzar feeling.

Some of us opt to shop, but Victor, Andrea, Ed, Todd and I opt for a different tour. Hussein takes us to see some of the more interesting aspects of “Old Cairo’. We walk past an entry way where the Threshold stone is has clearly been lifted from a Temple – it is covered in Hieroglypics. There a door way to a former Synogous – recognizable by the Jewish Star. There are butcher shops with butchers working on cutting Beef Quarters into smaller cuts of meat. I chat with a lovely Egyptian Family – Mother, Grandmother and two Daughters. Curled around the legs of the Grandmother – but finally willing to do high fives with me is the pride of the family – a young son!

Other highlights – a shop making and selling Brass Cannons – in a variety of sizes – from large to really really large! I tell Victor – NO CANNONS!

There are also Tin shops making Hookahs in various sizes – including

Just as we are getting ready to leave – Andrea and I beg for a bathroom stop. Our security guard chats up one of the shop owners – and we are alowed to accend a very narrow spiral stone staircase 3 flights to a tiny bathroom. I don’t care – it’s clean and the guy who found us the toliet hands us some toliet paper!

Life is good!

Now we are driven to the Coptic area of Old Cairo. This area is actually buried underneath ‘New’ Cairo, and was built on top of Roman Ruins. So layer upon layer upon layer! So interesting. To get to the Coptic area, you actually walk down a rather steep staircase and under a bridge that carries pedestrians. There – much like Diagon Alley – is an under ground shopping street with small restaurants – a very large antique book store, and a Christian Nunnery (I spot a Nun!). There are two reasons we came down – a quick visit to the ‘Cavern’ where Jesus was hidden for from 3 months to 2 years – depending on who is telling you, and a magnificant old Synagogue that has been donated to the Egyptian Government during Nasser’s Nationalization of all things Jewish.

After taking over the Synagogue, the Egyptians discovered a hidden room filled with old records. In the records – it is recorded that Mamonidies once came here. It is unclear from the presentation we have what he might have been doing – research perhaps – but he was here! Amazing.

To say I’m impressed is an understatement. I know from being in England many times that history can be found buried in the ground, but this is a complete community that is still functional.

We then visit the Hanging Church – built over Roman Ruins that can actually be seen thru the floor boards, and get back on the Bus. For the first time today, I am feeling ‘crowded’. A high school group joins us in the church – and there isn’t even room to breathe. I’m out of here! (hey – first I admire the mosaics – then I run!)

Next stop – lunch and then back to the hotel for a well earned Nap.

We are ‘free’ for dinner, and Hussein suggests a Lebonese Restaurant called Taboula. It was on Victor’s – must try – list, so we are for sure going. Pam and Suzanne join us – and we get a shared meal for 4. There’s enough food for 6 – and it is easily the best meal we’ve enjoyed in Egypt. Superb cooking, great presentation – and one of the main courses – a Beef dish with a Pomegranate/Citris sauce blows us away. Victor asks how it was made or even just the name – but the maitre d’s lack of English and our lack of Arabic proves a stumbling block. He’s definitely looking it up when we get back to the hotel.

Dessert is also excellent – we decide that it’s a bread pudding made with pita – so a Pita Pudding!

The short walk back to the Kempenski takes us past the American and British Embassies. There is – not unexpectedly – a huge police presence. They are set up with Metal riot shields, Personnel Carriers, machine guns, and helmets with face shields every 25 yards – and clearly awake and on guard. I had wondered early about the relatively high number of police in the area of the hotel – now I know why. It’s definitely not about us!

The Kempenski is a warm and welcoming beacon and we gleefully say hi to the staff and make our way to our room.

Definitely bed time.

Signing off – the Soup Lady

Egypt and Jordan – Day 10 – Feb 12, 2026


Oh No! it’s another transfer day, although this one is by far the easiest. We just have to get off the ship and onto a bus for a short ride to our next hotel – the Steigenberger Nile Palace.

Of course it’s NEVER that simple in Egypt. The trick is that we can’t check in to the hotel under afternoon – and of course we have to check-out by 10:00 AM. But Odyessy doesn’t waste time. Hassein has planned a full agenda for us this morning.

So – suitcases outside by 7:30 – get breakfast and be ready in the lobby by 8:00.

I begining to think that Hassein has only two start times – insanely early and 8:00 AM!

Anyway – good travelers that we all are – we are ready at 8:00 to visit the Big Fish of all Temples in Egypt – Karnak. And it is huge. 60 acres in it’s entirety – and Hassein jokes that we shouldn’t worry – we are only visiting 59 of the acres.

Cute. Very Cute.

Even though it seems really early to me – Karnak is busy, busy, busy – and Hassein basically tells us – you haven’t seen anything yet. That and Follow Me are his ways of letting us know it’s time to move!

As we have come to expect from the bigger temples – there’s a ticket required – which Hassein hands us when we get to the automated ticket scanning booths. Inside the ‘Visitor Welcome Center’ there is a 3D structure of the original Temple – as best we can imagine it today. Hassein points out that what makes Karnak special is that every Pharoah from the Old, Middle and New Dynasties had a finger in the pie. Each created a part of the temple, or added a wall, or erected an Obelisk or two. And well meaning folks have tried to ‘save’ sections, sometimes helping out, sometimes with disasterous results.

The worst attempt was French – an well meaning gentleman was asked to just get rid of some of the salt build-up along one side of the Temple. The problem was that the Nile’s flood and drop cycle had left salt over time and the salt had created issues. His idea was to allow the Nile water’s to remove the salt – so he built channels to bring in the water and left it sit under the wall for 3 months.

The wall fell down.

What the fellow didn’t know was that the builders had put cedar wood pegs in the middle of the stone blocks to hold them in place. Adding humidity made the wood swell – and the stones were pushed apart. Just brilliant, right!

On the other hand – under the wall that came tumbling down were found the painted tiles from the temple of Akhenaten that I described in the last Blog. So in fact – in failure they gave Akhenaten eternal life!

Anyway – we spend a brief moment looking at the 3D model, and then it’s time to see the real thing. And it is HUGE. Sheesh. The main hall – famous for having the stone pushed down in the movie – Death on the Nile – is actually as mysterious and huge as the movie makes it seem. A dozen men couldn’t link arms and circle just one of the Columns and there are dozens.

The ‘shorter’ columns are topped with closed Lotus Flowers, and the larger columns in the center of main hall are carved as Open Lotus flowers. The roof was built to go up vertically on the inner set of closed Lotus Flower Columns and then over the open Lotus Flower Columns and then down vertically on the other side. In the Vertical spaces, are grids of windows – creating rays of light. The net effect is to have the rays of the Sun illuminating the Open Lotus Flowers!

So cool. Such a neat effect.

I get some lovely sun rise images over bits and pieces of the temple. There are some really striking parts to this temple – not least of which is the remainders of the ramp system that the builders and artists used to create a Wall. Basically they used mud bricks, built a ramp up to the final height, placing the blocks layer by layer as the ramp was being built.

Then the artists arrive and start carving the blocks from the top. As they finish, the ramp is destroyed and they can access the lower parts of the wall. To make sure the designs are carved in the right places – they used plumb lines to make straight vertical lines (ask your local painter) – and then other plumb lines to make horizontal lines. That makes a grid – and then the images are transfered into the grids.

I use exactly the same technique to copy a painting from a small sketch to a bigger piece of paper. Wow – who knew I was using a 5000 year old technique.

There are some lovely low Relief and high Relief images to admire – and of course the wonderful Obelisks of Hatshepsut. She married her Nephew, then made him marry her daughter, all to keep control of the throne and title of Pharoah in her hands. She ruled for 18 years – and when she died – her Nephew – who finally got to be Pharoah – tried to erase her name everywhere. Nice family – right.

Anyway – Hassein went to great effort to explain what we know and don’t know about the creation and placement of an Obelisk. Because they are needles pointing the way to Heaven for the souls – they are made of one huge piece of stone, carved out in the Quarry. He explains how they measured out the size, carved out parts including the pieces that would in the end make the Obelisk raised at one end and lower at the other. Then the carving would start. When that was finished, the rest of the stone that wasn’t Obelisk was removed and the obelisk put on a boat to take it to the Temple. It was moved into position, and then raised. There are images that have been found that detail carefully all the steps except the one key one – how did they raise the Obelisk into position? No one apparently knows!

We pose for a group photo in front of the Obelisk of Hatshepsut – Admire the magnificant carving of a young King Tut and then use our free time to wander (or go to the toilet!).

We then take the bus a very short distance to a place where they make and paint Papyrus. There’s an interesting demonstration of the technique – starting with the plant (a lot like bamboo), and showing how strips are laid in both horizontil and Vertical position to create after 5 to 10 days of drying – Papyrus. And based on what we’ve seen in the GEM – this stuff really lasts and lasts! It’s flexible and pliable, and with proper preparation – easy to paint. Lots of our fellow travelers happily do some shopping – but we’re trying to downsize – and honestly – nothing really grabs our attention.

Then it’s finally time for lunch – which Hassein tells us is his favorite meal of the trip. We are crossing the Nile by boat to eat at a framer’s home. I must admit I’m sceptical – but in fact – is really truly is his home. There’s a shady area in front of his door that they have put out tables and benches to seat the 21 of us – and a bread oven in the corner. The walls of the space are painted to remind the family of their 2 trips to Mecca – one by steamship, one by airplane.

14 people live in the house – it has 3 floors with maybe 12 rooms, and from what we can see – one sink, and one toilet. Sharing is caring.

The kitchen where the meal has been prepared is very very basic – but the meal is amazing. We start with a vegtable delicious soup (all veggies from their farm), followed by Chicken and Beef. The beef is so tender – it’s wonderful. Of course there’s Rice, Hummus and Tahini – and pita. No meal in Egypt is Pitaless!

They show us how to make a ‘pastry’ type of bread that they dip into Molasses for dessert (it’s yummy – and I’m a complete Klutz at rolling out the bread). The farmer – who speaks excellent English, although he appologizes first – answers all our questions, explains how big his family is – and also tells us that no one knows how old his mother actually is – because age doesn’t matter!

Then they take us inside the house so the Mother who is probably 1/2 my height – can show us how she spends every day grinding wheat using a grinder handed down to her from her mother. One of my fellow travelers tries it – and can make the grinder turn, but just barely. I wait till everyone else is outside to ask if I can try. I can’t even turn the top stone 1/2 way. And this tiny little lady can make it grind wheat.

Mona – if you read this – you know what I need to work on – sigh.

We then say our good-byes and get back on the boat to check-in finally at our hotel.

It’s the best one I might EVER have stayed at. Huge and beautiful. The rooms are stunning, tons of space, lots of lights and we have a giant balcony that overlooks the Nile. I sit on the Balcony working on my blog while Victor takes a nap.

In the late afternoon we are escorted to another Cotton House – where more of our group do more shopping. Victor buys a lovely Blue shirt of linen, and a cotton scarf he’s been hunting for. I chat with one of the very sweet sales girls.

When we get back to the hotel, we take a stroll around the swiming pool, various restarants and double lobby – at the lowest level we find a cute bar where some of our fellow travelers have gathered. We join them for drinks (delicous). I see one of the staff swinging a bucket of coals to get them to light up – and then put the coals into a tall, rather elborately decorated stand. Victor takes one looks and says – those are Hookahs – and lots of folks are smoking. Our waiter asks if we’d like to try one – but we all agree since we don’t smoke – it might not be a good idea to start with these!

When we get up to leave the waiter tells us that entertainment is starting – we should stay. But we all agree – we are done for the evening!

We settle for a simple dinner (I have a salad) at one of the hotel’s restaurants – and go back to bed. Naturally – tomorrow is another LONG day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Days 8 and 9 – the journey Home


Sunday morning we must all say good-bye – take our last pictures of the Ranch – and start the drive back to Albuquerque and from there home.

All goes well. We return my rental car, (an incredible bargain of $107 US for 7 days rental) and jump into Carrie’s car and drive into Old Albuquerque- it’s a large area around a beautiful square that features restaurants and art shops and junk emporiums. Something for everyone.

We grab lunch at “The Old Time Cafe” – best bear claw ever – then wander from shop to shop. Eventually the heat gets to us and we decide to head back to the hotel for a nap before dinner.

Dinner at Applebee’s is as expected – but I enjoyed my rib steak (oh meat, how much I’ve missed you) and ate every dribble.

Back to the hotel – I say good night to my new friends and head off to bed.

My flight is at 6:00 AM and that means up at 3:00 AM to catch the 3:30 shuttle to the airport. I know – probably a bit of overkill – but I hate having to rush thru these things.

Needless to say – I don’t sleep.

Finally it’s 3:00 – I’m up, I’m dressed, I’m downstairs. The shuttle arrives – no issues – next stop the airport.

Check in, pass security – boring wait for the plane to Dallas to board – fly to Dallas, another long drag to the next gate. Just FYI – Dallas is a huge airport. Again nothing exciting to report – until I get a call from my husband.

He’s got a cold and doesn’t feel great – should he meet me at the airport, or do I take a taxi home?

I ask – did you get a COVID test. He says – not yet – on it.

He has COVID. I’m Not going home. I can’t risk getting sick. He has maybe a tough day – I get a tough month! So NO WAY am I going home.

Bummer.

What to do, what to do. A hotel say is so pricy – but I do have friends. I call the Intrepid traveler – and she immediately invites me to stay with her until Victor tests Negative.

Thank goodness for FRIENDS!

So I arrive in Montreal, I take a taxi to our house, my husband wears a mask, we stay 10’ apart and chat a bit – then I grab the car and drive to my friends home.

Crazy ending to a crazy adventure right?

It’s now 3 days later – Victor is feeling fine and testing negative and I’m home. Finally.

I’m so glad I’m home – I could kiss the floors but I think I’m just going to hug my husband and my bed!

End of an exciting adventure.. I’m not ready today for any more travel. I need at least 2 days off!

Signing off until my next adventure (how does a safari in India sound?)

The Soup Lady

Ice Cream in Turin – aka La Romana


I Love Ice Cream – and I’m particularly fond of Pistachio Ice Cream/Gelato. And I adore the Ice Creams of Italy.

During my quick visit to Turin (July 2024) – I definitely intended to eat Ice Cream in as many places as possible.

But things got difficult. I was in Turin to do a Regency Weekend that included tours of several of the historical Palaces/Museums that related to Napoleon’s visits to the city, a dance practice, a Ball, and a night at a Turkish Bath. Squeezing in time to try Ice Cream was a challenge.

In the end – I only got to eat Ice Cream at La Romana. It was described as the best ice cream in Turin by the Receptionist at our hotel – and that was enough to make sure I found time to get some.

So – morning of the day we were to fly home turned out to be the only chance to get Ice Cream – and after breakfast we stored our luggage in the hotel and walked the 5 minutes to Piazza San Carlo.

La Romana is – for an ice cream shop – a magnificent store front. High ceilings, a long counter on one side, multiple tables in and around the displays of Ice Cream Confectionary, and a generally ‘yummy’ buzz of people enjoying the simple, but oh so good, offerings.

Ordering was simple – but required an explanation that clearly is given multiple times a day. First you pick a size and pay – only then do you get to taste and then select your flavours. This is the reverse of how it generally works in North America – because the hope is that upon tasting, you’ll order more. But – hey – when in Turin, do as the Turinians do!

So both my husband and I lined up to select a Medium sized Cup. Paid our 4 Euro’s each – and then lined up to select flavours. The team behind the counter cheerfully provided tastes – and in hindsight I should have done some tasting – but instead I just opted for the 3 flavours I thought sounded right.

Pistachio for sure, Sabayon, and a third that featured whole Hazelnuts and a name I can’t quite remember.

My husband also had several different flavours – but the Sorbet called Stratelli con More – Raspberry and Blackberry with Dark Chocolate pieces was not just his favorite – he went back for seconds.

Just how good was this Ice Cream? How about the best I ever had?

I actually started wondering if I could open a franchise in NOTL…

And I’m planning another trip to Turin. I definitely want more of that Ice Cream.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Crazy Month – July 2023


In the planning – the summer of 2023 started out boring!

We had a blank slate – no plans, nothing doing. So we decided it might be a really good idea to spend a month in Niagara on the Lake. That’s a small town near Niagara Falls – known for it’s summer Shaw Festival, and lots of period correct (for us) re-enactments at Fort George.

So It made a lot of sense – we’d get a change to see what it would be like to live in Ontario – and we could check out that part of Ontario. Win-Win. And my sister and my brother-in-law would gleefully join us for a Shaw Festival/Stratford Play-a-ton!

And our friend Sonia could join us. This would be awesome.

Then we thought – gee – maybe it would be great to spend some time on the beach in Wells. And then a friend asked me to join him at the Chicago Bridge National. So I said Yes and Yes.

Then my grand-daughter and aspiring Actress/Singer Sophie decided she would love to go to the 2 week long Stratford Shakespeare Camp. And – Grannie and Grandpa – how about I join you in Maine…

Great stuff Sophie – always take advantage of any time older grand-kids are willing to spend time – and at 16 going on 17 – how many more summers will she want to spend with us? It’s the countdown that all Grannies face.

So our boring summer turned into anything but boring! We’d start in late June on the Beach in Wells with Sophie, then Victor and Sophie would drive to Cape Vincent for a Napoleonic Re-enactment while I hang out in Maine, Then the Sophie Shuffle. Her partners would drive to Cape Vincent and pick up Sophie, and Victor would drive back to Maine.

When our Maine holiday ended – Victor would drop me off in Boston at Logan to fly to Chicago for the Bridge tourney – and drive back to Montreal. Then on the next day, Victor would fly to Chicago – eat dinner with our buddy Todd – then fly home. I’d play bridge for the week, then fly to Toronto to meet Victor on our way to Stratford to pick up Sophie and drive back to Montreal.

Whew – you tired yet? I am just thinking about all this planning. And we haven’t even gotten to Niagara Yet.

Then we layer on a layer – a weekend re-enactment/Theatre experience in Montreal – some time to chat with friends – then the trip back to Ontario and Niagara;

Well – we’ve now done part 1. And it was – well interesting. Very weather dependant.

Maine had a lousy first two weeks. Rainy and Cold until it wasn’t. And we were 3 adults camping out in a hotel room. Great view of the beach- but it was raining so hard you couldn’t do any outdoor activities. Sheesh

So we ate. And ate. Fisherman’s Catch, Wells Lobster Pound (more than once), and even the Steakhouse. Good meals I tell you!

Meanwhile we have our first sunny day in Maine – and Sophie tries to get a tan – and since she missed the first 3 days due to rain – does the 16 year old trick of just spending the day toasting – and somehow not applying sun tan lotion.

Result – burned to a crisp. But completely evenly! It actually looked like she’d painted on a white bikini. A perfect burn everywhere!

I smear her with Aloe, dose her with Motrin (looked it up on Dr. Google – highly recommended) and pack her off to her summer camp in Stratford.

Two lovely days on my own in Maine – mostly spending painting – my newest passion. I’ll have you know that I’m up to painting #4! Take that stinky art teacher when I was 15 who told my mother to stop wasting money giving me painting lessons!

Victor returns from a very successful parade in Cape Vincent – and we make plans to meet up with friends from STX who have a ‘camp’’ in Maine. They join us for lunch one day (3 hrs over fried fish – what’s wrong with that) and then a full day at their camp.

In between I have art class – and I know it’s just flattery – but one of the other students (all of whom have reams of more experience than I) comments that she can’t believe this is just my 4th painting – it’s stunning.

I admit it – I like it too. I’m going to get it framed. Maybe hang it in STX….?

The camp is lovely – truly lovely. 2 bedrooms, nice kitchen/living space – and a quick walk to the ‘beach’ where they keep their Boston Whaler. They feed us lunch (yum) and take us to see the ‘rustic camp’ they are selling. It is truly rustic. No – seriously – rustic. Outhouse and everything. Cute camp area with lots of other homes – some rustic, some rebuilt – very cool. Then we go back to their ‘camp’ and spend several hours just burning gas and circling their lake and chatting about this that and the other. Kisses – and see you guys in STX – and we head for dinner.

Ok = it has been said that Eiser’s plan dinner while eating lunch – and unfortunately – it’s mostly true. The next meal is very important to us. And this one is going to be at one of our most favorite restaurants – The White Barn.

Yes – it’s a multi-course tasting menu – Yes Victor gets the Wine Pairing – and Yes – it’s delicious! My 3 favorite courses are a Tomato Tartar, a Shortbread sandwich filled with truffles, and a Wagu Beef in a completely yummy sauce. Got to give it to the White Barn – they don’t have a Michelin Star – but that’s Michelin’s problem!

Now we pack and leave Wells Beach. Originally our thought was that Victor would drive me to Logan – but it turns out that there’s a bus that goes from Portsmouth, NH direct to Logan – for $27. So instead of taking Victor miles and miles out of his way – he drops me off at the bus depot and I take a surprisingly nice bus ride into Boston.

Naturally – the plane is delayed. I’m grinding to suspect that an on-time plane doesn’t happen – but eventually I get to Chicago – navigate my way to the Bridge Tournament – and play bridge. Earn Master Points – Yeah me.

Then I fly to Toronto – relatively on time I’ll have you know – get to Stratford, Cheer like crazy for my grand-daughter – and then head back to Montreal.

Whew – That’s some July – right?

Wondering how August turns out? Me too! Stay tuned.

The Souplady signing off.

Happy 75th Birthday to ME!!!


June 24, 2023 – I had an AMAZING 75th Birthday. Got off the train from Toronto on Friday night June 23rd to this – Adrienne had flown in from London, Alex from California – and the family was gathered on the Train Platform to sing me Happy Birthday.

I was completely completely stunned!

Then Saturday was packed – Adrienne, Alex, Victor and I ate breakfast – then went to the CARS to listen to them rehearse for their concert on Sunday. Rehearsal done – we did Dum Sum – then the 6 ‘grown-ups’ went back to our house to chat and lounge and rest and talk! I haven’t done that for YEARS with my kids.

Then Saturday night we did a lovely dinner – joined by Elena and Sebastian. Wide ranging chat and eating until we were ‘done’!

Sunday Alex flew home, Adrienne took the train to visit a friend, Vic and I went to the concert – CARS with Billie on drums and Ron (another neighbor) on Bass played and played. There was food and fun and a block party! Super cute. We had a strawberry shortcake from our favorite pastry shop – because strawberries are great right now – as per the bakery. Oh dear – amazing.

I sang Karoke with Anais and Sophie – we did “Lets do the Time Wrap again” (I like it because you TALK) – and something called “Free Falling”. And I danced. And Victor got up on the ‘stage’ to sing with the band – “Like a River Flows”. It was so romantic…..

I was so happy.

Family was so happy.

It was great fun.

I’m well and truly birthday’d.

The Soup Lady signing off to do her daily Yoga! I’ve been working on Adrienne’s 30 day MOVE challenge for a year. I’m on day 27. Slow progress – but I do enjoy it!

Leslie

Sorry Chief – I’m Air Frames


That’s a very British Military way of saying – not my party!

And frankly – I love it. Craig, my daughter’s husband’s father – or as my grand-daughter tells me – her daddy’s daddy – is a retired British Officer – and he taught me this one! Thank you Craig

Back to the car – or as Craig would say – Sorry Chief – I’m Air Frames.

The car is still lying dead on it’s back – despite a momentary glimpse at life after death.

We drove back to Sutton Courtney on Saturday, we had to revisit the rental agency to extend the lease since at that point the car was still dead. They had tested everything they could think of – including replacing some electrical something (Hence the Sorry Chief – I’m Air Frames). Didn’t help.

We met up with Craig and Jan and had a delightful adults only lunch at the Barley Mow. This is a gastronomic Pub that is well worth it’s full bookings and occasional – sorry, no room apologies.

The pub is nestled in a village that if you squint your eyes and ignore the recycling bins is straight out of the 1800’s – maybe the 1600’s for all I know. Thatched roofs on all the brick cottages, narrow roadways, it even has a stream that rambles thru so it can be featured on narrow boat trips. It has everything – including the Barley Mow.

We knew we were in the right place this time because the decor was upper cottage. Dark beams across a white washed ceiling, well spaced tables, lots of tiny rooms that linked up in some strange (is there a map) way – and a lovely fireplace in every room.

We were escorted into the very oldest part of the Barley Mow – a low ceilinged room (under 6’ for SURE – and maybe topping out at 5’8” in places) that featured 4 tables and a lovely roaring fire. Cozy, cute, comfortable – and one hoped – food to match.

Like most gastropubs – the menu was filled with pub classics – fish and chips in several varieties, shrimp scampi and the like – plus oddities like French Onion Soup and Beet Salad – kinda 2022 meets 1920.

I loved the presentation of my fish and chips – I ordered the sweet potato fries, and opted for garden peas over mushy peas – so not truly traditional. But yummy. Even the onion soup was yummy although I don’t think the restaurants in France are going to lose any sleep over it.

The true food highlights were the conversation on how to make Tarter Sauce (never eat with foodies if you don’t want to know those details), and the best Bakewell Tart I’ve had since I’ve been coming to London.

I’m sorry Costa – your commercial offering, while yummy, is not up to this offerings scratch.

We had a nice long leisurely lunch – it’s really pleasant when it’s just adults, something you forget quickly when constantly accompanied by a lovely, and well behaved, but still 5 year old.

Then we checked in on the dead bug. Still dead. So we headed back to London. 2.5 hours later, we arrived in London to be told that the garage had called – and the car was fixed!

Miracle of Miracles!

Turns out that there was a blown fuse. His fix of the obvious electrical whatever (I’m Air Frames remember) didn’t appear to work because the fuse was blown. When that was fixed – the car ran!

We decide that another 4 hour plus drive just isn’t going to happen – so the plan is for Adrienne to take me to Heathrow Monday morning early (I’m heading to Utah next), then drive on to pick up the car.

Best laid plans

This morning we are greeted with an oops – not quite.

Craig – completely helpful soul that he is – decided to walk to the repair shop and get the car. In doing so – he discovered that the cure wasn’t permanent. The fuse had blown again. Three fuses later – and the conclusion is that there is something blowing the fuses.

Ya think?

So bug is still dead. I’m still going to Heathrow on Monday – but when the car will be deemed healthy remains a mystery.

Signing off to do VeriFLY – the newest wrinkle in an already painful flying experience… Can they possibly make it worse?

The Soup Lady

What did you do on Jan 2, 2022?


We had a very exciting Jan 2.

Adrienne was going to drive back to London from Sutton Courtney. She left at 2:00 PM. Plan was for Craig to drive Abigail and I to a half way point on Jan 4 – and Adrienne to pick us up there. Then Abigail’s school is still starting on Jan 5.

I’m leaving Jan 10 – so there would be a week of me taking care of Abigail before and after school – then I fly away.

Best laid plans of mice and men

We go for a lovely tea with friends of Jan and Craig – their son is Abigail’s age and they get on a house afire. So we’re enjoying ourselves when my phone rings. It’s Adrienne (and it’s now 4:00 PM – 2 hours after she left the house). I figure she’s saying – I’m home – but no. The car broke down. Died. Won’t start. Not interested. About 15 minutes away from Sutton Courtney. She thinks she might have put Disel in the gas tank (it takes gas..) – which actually turns out to be wrong – not the problem.

But it’s Jan 2 which is a Sunday – and NOTHING is moving… well, mostly nothing. It will be 2 hours MORE before Tow Truck can come and they have suggested she go back to the house. So we drop kids and other family off at a play ground and go pick up Adrienne.

We make sure she put in proper fuel (she did), and we head back to Sutton Courtney. Then we head back to where we’ve deserted the car. Then we find out that nothing is open near that location, so we sit in the cold car. I’m so cold that I wrap myself in my good coat and lie down on the back seat. Anything to stay warm.

At around 7:00 PM a Truck appears – but it’s not a ‘tow’ truck – it’s a service truck. The driver agrees that it’s not the gas – that the car is dead and needs to be towed.

Another 2 hour wait for a real ‘tow’ truck.

He kindly says – go for dinner – we will call. And we can do a ‘keyless’ tow. So don’t worry about the car – we will get it to Sutton Courtney for you some time tonight.

So where to go. Our first choice says no dice. They have lots of reservations and are running out of food. So they can’t take the risk of disappointing someone who reserved to feed 3 cold and hungry drop ins. Given that it’s Christmas time – this feels somewhat like a Christmas Story.

So we continue down the road to another ‘Gastropub’. These are pubs that have determined that the money lies in food. And it is lovely, and empty. So we go in. There’s a beautiful outdoor eating area – with working heat lamps, but the inside is the real winner. It’s a meat lovers heaven, and the decor is higher antler. Huge massive stuffed heads of various animals adorn the different small sections – but since I’m quite a meat lover – this looks wonderful.

The menu is equally inspiring. A 2 course or 3 course option for 27 or 33 GBP – or you can choose the Sunday Roast. We go for the Roast – Adrienne and I will share the Roast Platter – Craig is going for the Lamb.

We know we’re in trouble when the waiter comes to tell us that they are out of Roast. But they can sub the Lamb in the Roast Platter. We agree, and continue to wait. No bread service, but they do bring hot water – which I definitely need at this point.

The waiter finally appears with our food. Craig’s Roast Lamb is a massive plate with a large hunk of Lamb, some roast potatoes (I think they might have been sitting for hours…), and slivers of fried parsnips.

Our Roast Platter is carried out on a huge wooden carving board – and consists of bowls of the various offerings. There are 2 bowls of the Roast Lamb, plus a bowl of pork belly bites, a smaller bowl of slivered and fried plantains, two really horrid Yorkshire Puddings acting as filler around the roast lamb (oh well) and some interesting veggies that looked rather like carrots and green beans but on the sweet side. The lamb was outstanding.. yummy. So good. And the pork belly bites – well – I do love those and these were great.

I’m feeling better about the restaurant – so we foolishly get inspired by the dessert offerings – and then of course are disappointed – really horrid Rice Pudding (I refused to pay for it – yes – it was that bad) and a mediocre Bread Pudding. Since that was much better than the Rice Pudding, we finished it.

We then headed back to the house – no car yet. So we put everyone to bed – and suddenly heard the tow truck. So dead car is now sitting in the driveway.

Ok – situation – we have dead car in driveway, we are 2 hours drive from London, and there is one functional car among the family. And we are here in Sutton Courtney.

Adrienne does some research – and we decide the best bet is likely to rent a car that we can drive to London – and eventually return here on Saturday to (we hope) pick up the repaired car since there is a lovely car repair place about 10 minutes away.

So… plan for today. Mourn the car, take a walk, eat a lovely dinner – perhaps at the Swan… deal with the rest of this tomorrow.
Tomorrow is another day!