Egypt and Jordan – Day 5 – Feb 7, 2026


Cruising Lake Nasser – what a delight.

The weather is absolutely perfect – which given that Egypt gets 1” of rain a year is probably not a hard target. But it’s not only clear and bright and lovely – it’s not insanely hot either. So perfect.

Our ship pulls away from it’s mooring at exactly 6:15 – and we arrive in front of Abu Simbel just in time to admire the morning sun illuminating the two temples. Lovely.

Now that we have a broader view of the Temples at Abu Simbel and the surrounding landscape it’s easy to see that our ship was actually moored extremely close to the monuments – the need for a boat ride and a bus ride one of ‘guest safety’ – not distance. I had a feeling this would be true – my intense sense of geographical orientation had been ringing off the hook. I just couldn’t explain the relatively short boat/bus rides and my feeling of exactly where the monuments were located.

The interesting thing about seeing the Temples from the water is that you can also understand where they had been before being moved. It’s really not that far!

After breakfast – not up to Kempinski standards – but I did love my eggs – so fresh and delicous – Andrea and I decide to do a walk.

Ok – we’re on a ship – and it’s a small ship at that – but we still want to walk. The best bet is the 6th floor – where there’s an open air covered lounge area, a swiming pool, two ‘hot tubs’ – one with cold water, the other empty, and enough space to allow folks to walk two abreast.

We walk and chat – and walk and chat. I haven’t done that since my last walk and chat with the Intrepid Traveller – and I admit to missing her, and our walks terribly.

At 10:30 we get a passing view of an old fortress – Kasr Ibrim – and then a detailed lecture on the subject of Ethopia, Egypt and the dam. Not the Ashwan Dam – the one that Ethopia has built blocking off the source of the Blue Nile. The dam has yet to generate any electricity – but it is blocking the entire flow of the Blue Nile into Egypt – and as per Hussien – the discussions between Egypt and Ethopia are not going well. 15% of the water for the Nile comes from the White Nile, 85% from the Blue Nile – so it’s a major problem.

He predicts that if the normal 7 year cycle of the Nile repeats (as it usually does), Egypt will face severe water challenges and it is highly likely that a war will be waged to settle the issue. He explained the situation from Egypt’s perspective – and detailed some of the compromise positions that Egypt has offered, all of which have been denied by Ethopia. He’s predicting that Egypt will (with Sudan’s ok – since Sudan lies between Egypt and Ethopia), try to grab the new dam and run it. Keep your eyes open on that topic.

Sigh – great – another war.

After the lecture we have free time – and I chit chat with my fellow travellers before deciding that I’m seriously hungry. Good news – it’s almost lunch time!. Suddenly several huge flocks of birds skimming the water of the lake fly in formation right in front of the Ship. Our birder friends recognize the larger white birds as Pelicans! They are certainly a lot prettier than the brown ones on St. Croix.

I know it’s insane – but the open air and the exercise has combined to make me hungrier than normal – and I find myself counting down the minutes to ‘feeding time’!

As all the other meals, it’s a buffet with a small section that has two cooks who are preparing food in front of your eyes. Today’s selection is grilled chicken. Yum.

After the lunch, we take the smaller boat from the Ship to a landing near the Amada Temple. Another Temple devoted to Rhamses II – he did a LOT of building in Nubia – and again – it’s glorious.

Unlike Abu Simbel which is lit inside with Electric lights, the Amada Temple is not lit inside. But Hassien is allowed to come inside with us – so in fact the tour is more interesting. The quality of the wall carvings, like those at Abu Simbel is wonderful. Hassien uses a very bright flashlight to illuminate the walls – translates some of the Hiergliphix for us – and explains the meaning of the various images. He also explains how the Egyptians used both natural and artificial colors. They were excellent chemists- and the artificial colors were a lot less $$ – so they are used here – and the colors are still bright 4000 years later. When the temples were moved – the walls were coated in at attempt help preserve the colors – I hope it works.

I do love the pictures I took – there is the oval of the light of the flashlight – illuminating images as Hussien carefully explains the meaning of the pictures. Like Abu Simbel – and unlike Egyptian Temple art I’ve seen in the past, these images seem to move. Brilliant.

Hassien directs our attention to newer ‘graffiti’. This was a camel way station on the way to Mecca – and there are images of camels drawn along the top edges of the walls. A Muslin version of Killroy was here!

We explore the temple complex – its not huge but it is glorious – and then reboard the skiff to head back to our ship.

I should mention how we get on and off the skiff. Leaving the ship, there is a metal staircase that is lowered to the level of the skiff, and then a 2 step ‘stool’ is added to make it relatively easy to get up and down. Helping out are several ‘sailors’ from the ship – and I for one am quite happy to hold their outstretched arms or hands!

When we have to get off the skiff and onto land – there have been created landing areas that are a bit uphill – and the skiff pulls up level with the landing, a boarding plank is placed from the bow of the boat to the landing site, and two sailors hold a pole as a make-shift ‘railing’. Another sailor will stand below the plank to offer a supporting hand on the other side. It sounds dangerous – but actually feels quite safe. I am not thrilled to ‘walk the plank’ – but I haven’t fallen yet!

We return to our ship, I grab a very welcome cup of tea from one of the staff, and we head up to the open air terrace to watch the sunset. At around 5:00 PM Hassien gathers us in the Lounge to watch an old TV show dedicated to the Herculean Task undertaken by UNESCO to rescuse the Nubia Temples. Images of hundreds of workers carefully hand sawing the monuments into pieces which are then carefully transport to the new Temple sites – with the same orientation to the sun of course – but above the eventual high water mark.

Of most interest to me is the fact that they built an arch of steel above the temples, and then hid the arch with stones to create the effect of the temples being built into the rock face as they were when they were made 4000 years ago. This was done between 1960 and 1965 – paid for and orchestrated by French, British, American, etc. experts. I’m so glad they did this – these Temples are unbelievable.

The sunsets – and sunrises – are amazing. A huge round disk appears on the horizon – and showly assends to the sky. This repeats at sunset. But this is not at all what the sunsets look like in Canada. Not even close. Because the horizon is basically flat – no mountains ring the lake – there is nothing to distrub the view. You can easily see why the Egyptians thought there was a scarb pushing a round disk around the sky. It’s stunning.

I take photos – but in this case – a picture just doesn’t do the view justice.

There is a ‘cocktain’ party tonight in the Lounge Bar – they present the heads of departments to us while music plays and we applaud. It’s a chance to meet and chat before going into dinner.

As is our norm – we eat and chat – this time we join Ed and Todd – and are having such a good time the staff has to come over to ask us to leave already! Oppsie!

It’s late, it’s bedtime – and I’ve definitely done my 10,000 steps for the day.

Signing off for another day.

The Soup Lady

Egypt and Jordan – Day 3 – Feb 5, 2026


It’s another day in Cairo, and today we start our Odyssey Tour by meeting our guide and fellow travelers in the lobby of the Kempinski.

But first – breakfast. It’s just as overwhelming as it was yesterday – but this time I bravely ask the chefs to prepare me an Egyptian Version. They gleefully agree and are handing me plates with samples of all the ‘special’ things that they feel Egypt has to offer.

I do love their version of scambled eggs I will admit – add nuts to anything and you pretty much have me sold, but Ful Medames has me frankly unimpressed. Part of the issue – I said not spicy – and I’ll bet it is always served spicy. But it’s a very unappealing grey color. I kinda pretend to eat it, and then push it aside.

Now we go down to the lobby area and meet our guide – Hussain, and our 19 fellow travelers. They are mostly in the 60 to 79 age range = or as Victor refers to us – the White Haired Crowd. But they seem very nice. Hussain – our guide and fearless leader for the next 2 weeks is a Nubian Gentleman with a degree in Egyptology, and has actually worked 2 seasons as a archologist. He’s experienced, well spoken, extremely informatie – and a general delight.

This is going to be great.

We start with the standard ‘rules’. No polictics – there was a fist fight several months ago – they don’t want repeats. Don’t talk or even recognize the vendors. If you ignore them, they will ignore you. Be polite, be on time (he’s not waiting if you aren’t there), All delivered in a droll manner and with a smile. I like him!

We then board our 44 passenger bus. Given that we’re just 19 (21 if you include Hussian and our security guard), that makes for plenty of space.

As before – we are heading out to the GEM.

I ask Hussain about the frequent condos that have entire floors vacant – without even windows.

Hussain says that naturally there are lots of reasons – but bottom line – it’s money. If you want to put up a building – you need a permit. Permits are only good for one year.. So developers hop to it. and get the structure of the bilding up and running . They stop just sort of finishing the building! No foors, No ceilings, No windows, and tell the buyer – your job to finish. They have fulfilled the requirements of the Permit – their job is done.

And there are lots and lots of building like this –

As one of our fellow travellers quipped – well that explains the lack of ‘homelessness’.

After what feels like a much faster trip – avoid rush hour in Cairo folks – it’s not worth the travel time – we again arrive at the GEM.

And this time Hussain takes care of everything for us. We are given ‘Whispers’ – remote listening devices that allow us to hear what Hussim has to say – even if he Whispers. Since we must set them to a specific channel – I’m going to guess a version of an old fashioned walkie-talkie. Our channel for the entire trip will be #5!

What is astonding is the differences between what Hussain (remember – he’s a University trained Egyptogist and has experience doing digs) shows us and what we saw yesterday reveals the incredible depth of displays in this volumous space.

Again we start with a quick look at some of the materials before King Tut – focusing on reading the hieroglyphics. Hussain tells us that we define Civilization as an Organized society with a discernable leadership, a written language, and records. By this standard – as soon as the Egyptians had formalized hieroglyphics, they were civilized – and that happened almost 5000 years ago.

He shows us how to do a beginner’s read of hieroglyphics, then takes us to see some of the most interesting examples of why the Egyptians were considered Civilized so long before other communities. In the museum’s collection are examples of early writings that have now been ‘translated’ – and because the Egyptains loved to write on stone – are still readable. He also shows us perserved early versions of the Book of the Dead – the insanely complicated instructions that had to go with a corpse to the afterlife.

Unlike our first guide – Hussain is interested in convincing us of the depth and weath of Egypt. He also is concerned with some of the more conteversal aspects of the current regime. But more on that later.

We tour the museum slowly – but very differently today. So worth that extra day! I spot places that I didn’t ‘see’ yesterday and would like to spend more time at today because Hussain has promised us time to wander. The docents have done a wonderful job of identifing in both English and Arabic all the display cases – sometimes repeating a brief explanation 4 times (once on each side), but sometimes changing it up.

After our 2 hour guided tour – which includes a much more detailed description of what might have gone wrong with King Tut who died very young – and was buried with 365 Canes (clearly he had trouble walking) and a very detailed discussion of the relationship between the 4 gods – Osiris, Isis, Set and the 4th sister – Nephithys – it’s free time.

Victor finds a comfy place to sit – I go back to sections that were skipped on both tours. There are 3 (maybe more – I found 3) underground sections. One dedicated to the Valley of the Kings, one to what has been uncovered in the ‘artist’ colony that existed not far from the Valley of the Kings and housed all the folks and their families who had dedicated themselves to workiing on the tombs, and one focused on what has been done underwater near the former site of Alexandria.

The last was my favorite. They had video footage of the divers ‘discovering’ various items – mostly statue pieces and coins – and then the items were displayed for us to see. As a scuba diver who’s done some underwater ‘forging’ – this was super interesting.

They also had photos taken during the opening of King Tut’s tomb, a section devoted to explaining what happens during the 12 hours of night – including images of the various gates a soul must navigate on their way to the afterlife.

It’s a huge huge museum, and like all really big museums, there is lots to uncover. I barely make it on time back to our meeting place!

We all go for lunch at Zooba – and this time are served a feast of Egyptian flavors and foods. Beware the Egyptian appetizers – it’s easy to eat your fill of beets, sausages, and humus – not leaving room for the main courses of grilled chicken (I do LOVE their grilled chicken), fava bean and cheese vegetarian dishes, and of course deserts. Today it was a truly delicious rice pudding.

Hussain now takes us over to see the full sized ship that carried King Korfu to the great Pyramid and was then unassembled and stored near by for his use in the afterlife. I’m am again impressed. Not only with the ship which is remarkable intact after 4000 years – but the incredible design of the building built to house it.

Hussain also points out some Paprus that is growing at the museum. I didn’t actually realize it was a plant much like bamboo! Cool.

We have definitely walked our feet off today – but we still need to get back to the hotel.

Because buses are higher than cars, on the return trip we drive very close to the appartment buildings we’ve been passing. Hussain explains that these appartment buildings were painted by the government when it was realized that the road visitors must travel from the ‘fancy hotel district near the Nile’ and the museum would pass this way.

We also see ‘farms’ on the roofs of several of the buildings. Once you know to look for them – they were highly visible from our elevated positon. We say several chicken farms of course – but also sheep herds, and goat herds. I’m consumed with wondering how they take them down the elevators!

Back at the hotel we get a brief period to relax – then we meet for a welcome ‘drink’ (I’m drinking only soda water – this place is dry!) – and then we go over to one of the popular islands in the Nile for dinner. Again the appetizers (Mezze) are delicious. This time we have the Egyptian version of Samosas, Fried Beef buns, and course Pita. The main course – Grilled Chicken! I’m a happy camper.

Back to the hotel and bed. We must have our luggage outside by 1:30 AM – and we must be in the lobby by 2:00 AM sharp as we are flying tomorrow to Ashwan!

Signing off to get packing – and trying to grab some sleep – The Soup Lady

Nov 14 – A Religious High and a Fabulous Hotel – Day 13


6 Years, 6 months, 6 weeks, 6 days, 6 hours, 6 minutes.

As per Rio – That’s how long a Tibetan Monk meditates to ascend to a higher rank. There’s also a 3 year, 3 month, 3 week, 3 day, 3 hour, 3 minute option to obtain a lower rank. In case you are interested.

We start today with a visit to the beautiful Tibetan Monastery that is about 1/4 of the way up that same winding road we’ve been taking – over and over again.

But this time after a hair-raising drive thru town, we pull into the unearthly quiet of a lovely Monastery perched on a flat piece of ground on the Nepal side of the road.

Rio – who is Tibetan – walks us thru the Monastery. We spin the prayer wheels waking slowly from wheel to wheel and concentrating on our thoughts and we see the ‘Monk’ only residence for Monk who are doing a mediation – 6 years, 6 months, 6 weeks, 6 days, 6 hours, 6 minutes – with only one acolyte in attendance to help as he needs it.

There is a yearly Retreat held here with hundreds of Tibetans seeking enlightenment held here in the Retreat Hall, and housing cascading down the hillside for the younger monks in training or I suppose the folks who come on Retreat. There is no question that this is a power point in the world. Even I can feel that this is a very special place.

It is the oldest Tibetan Monastery in the world. There are others that are much fancier – but this was the first. And it’s obvious why.

We take the required photos, and eventually leave. We still must drive to Darjeeling, check-into our next hotel, and eat lunch at the fancy restaurant I’ve been promised!

By Helmut’s mapping app – we should be about 1 hr from Darjeeling – and we can even see it across the valley. It looks close enough to touch, but nothing is as it seems in this part of the world!

I suppose it’s not a surprise to be told that while the crow flies, Darjeeling is very close, by car it’s a lot lot further. And when we finally reach the outskirts of Darjeeling we find out why.

One of the Major Political Figures is coming TODAY to open a new outdoor shopping experience, with many small booths dedicated to selling hand-made product from each province in India. There’s music, there are flags, there are dancers, drummers and singers, and there is no driving thru!

Our driver has to stop at each of the barricades to explain he’s got guests who are going to the Elgin. That name clearly holds power because each time he uses it – the Barriers go down, and we are waved or saluted thru! Hmmm – I’m wondering what the Elgin is?

Eventually (1.5 hrs – anyone surprised) we arrive at a lovely wrought iron gate manned by a gentleman in uniform. Our driver explains who we are – and we are saluted thru the gate and into a driveway that ends at one of the most beautiful hotels I’ve ever seen.

Originally built over 125 years ago (1887) – it’s been maintained in the traditional style except for the addition of modern plumbing – including a huge deep Bathtub, and Room heaters.

We’re greeted – offered a drink – and given a small gift to welcome us to the hotel. Photo’s dot the walls reflecting the glorious past of this hotel, and there is staff ready to escort us to our rooms.

My room is warm and huge. Actually about 3 or 4 times the size of my room at the HomeStay – and with the most beautiful thing I’ve seen in a week. A bathtub. I’m not alone about focusing on the bathtub – I no sooner get into my room than I get a photo from Andrea – it’s Helmut in the Bathtub!

We regroup – and head out to lunch. Rio knows the way (of course – I think he knows the way everywhere) and we find ourselves in the middle of the main shopping street and smack dab in the center of the crowd gathering to greet the arriving Politician Mamata Banerjee. I immediately get distracted by a group of dancers in lovely Saris – and Andrea gets sent to find me and drag me back to the group! (Sigh)

We walk thru the town to a restaurant called Glenary – it was originally a pastry shop – and has morphed into a 3 story Restaurant, Pastry Shop, Bar that is a popular favorite. And it serves Steak.

Rio basically tells us – you must order the steak, so we do. I also try to order something fried. I’ve discovered that the fried foods tend to agree better with my stomach, and after several attempts – waiter takes the order, returns to say – we’re out, takes another order – returns to say we’re out – until finally I ask – well what do you have – and it’s the Chinese style fried chicken that is available.

We relax, have drinks – they have a choice of beer – Helmut is so happy. This part of India isn’t alcohol free – but it’s been a challenge to source beer – and this time he gets to choose! First time since we arrived that there’s been not only beer, but a choice of beers.

Our Chinese fried chicken arrives – and it’s perfect. I’d have been perfectly happy with just that for lunch. The steaks are served – and my doubts are in fact set in front of me. This isn’t steak, although I’ll agree that it’s beef. It’s just a much larger serving of what I’d call pot roast than the one we got the other evening at the HomeStay.

We do our best, but no one can finish their potion – even with Helmut taking 1/2 of Andrea’s. So after some discussion – Rio takes the remainder back with him. I think his plan is to feed the ‘homeless’ dogs that live near his HomeStay – because he’s let the car go with his 2nd in command. They have to go pick up a new guest from Bagdogra Airport. Rio is going home by public transport.

He insists on walking us back to the hotel – I think they think we will get lost if we wander outside of their protective vision – and we say good-bye.

We opt to return to our rooms and give those bathtubs a good hard workout. I actually wash my hair TWICE. I’d been making do with a washcloth and a quick wipe because the room was so cold. But with a warm bathtub, a proper bathroom and – wow – a Bathrobe – well, I’m ready to get comfy.

We opt to meet at 7:30 for a drink in the bar of the hotel. And you can envision the Raj arriving to greet folks.

It reminds me of scenes from the movie – The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. At one point they go into a private club – and I promise you – this could have been where they filmed that section.

I’m so relaxed that I make the beginning traveler’s mistake of ordering a Pina Colada. Silly me – of course they can’t make one. What was I thinking! But I’m so happy and so warm and so clean I don’t really care. We chat, go over some of our adventures, and basically say good-bye.

Tomorrow I’m leaving – starting my journey home while Helmut and Andrea will continue the adventure – several days in Darjeeling to explore, than visits to Gangtok, Pelling, the Rabdanste ruins, Ravangla, Kalimpong, Sunderbans National Park, Corbett National Park, and the Corbett Tiger Reserve. I know they will have a blast, but I’m ready to head back home.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 13 – Singalila National Park – Day 12


Last day – we NEED a Red Panda!

And we wake to the good news – the spotters have one and we need to go NOW!

This time I’m determined to brave the Bamboo Forest.. but first I must brave the ride up the Mountain. This just doesn’t get easier.

To comfort me – Rio promises that tomorrow – our travel day – will feature a visit to a Tibetan Monastery in Nepal – and the best Resturant in Darjeeling.

Deal!

Final the jeeps stop at the closest trail into the Red Panda’s location – and we all jump (well – I slowly slide) out of the jeep and start the climb. The spotters have been holding the Panda in his tree – it’s a juvenile- not the same one spotted two days ago – but in the same location.

I’m the tail of the line – Andrea is moving at full speed, with Helmut close behind her but I’m just trying not to hurt myself.

I have on my good Utah ‘boot’s’ with their deep rubber cut soles, and a hiking stick for my right hand. I need to be sure that my right knee doesn’t take any twisting.

Mingmar is sticking to me like glue. We hike past the point that I ‘quit’ last time – and follow the narrow track (about 6” wide – not a typo – 6 inches wide) into the bamboo forest.

As before – the bamboo is so dense here that you can’t see more than a few feet ahead – but I’ll be honest – my view is my FEET! I put each foot down carefully, making sure I’m steady on that foot before shifting to the next.

The path is up and down small but steep terrain. Maybe 5 steps down, two steps across a muddy patch, then 5 steps up. 2 steps across the top of the ridge, then 5 steps down. Repeat.

I don’t think I’m scared – but my heart rate would disagree with that. I’m going slowly – but super carefully – and my heart rate is going up and up. It’s mostly the adrenaline and the Altitude combined to fuel my increasing heart rate, not really the exercise.

We are suddenly very close to the Panda sighting – and we stop to decide where everyone else is standing. The team with me starts whistling – and we hear whistles coming back at us.

There’s one problem – At least for me. I can’t tell where the returning whistles are coming from!

Apparently Mingmar is also having trouble deciding – since he tells me NOT TO MOVE – and goes in first one direction, and then the other.

I am most definitely not moving.

If I got lost – I don’t know how to whistle!

Suddenly the team with Andrea and Helmut appears. The Panda has changed trees – he came down the tree, ran within inches of Helmut (there are BIG animals – so think a large large large dog with a really long tail) and then disappeared.

The decision is to re-group and wait to see if the trackers can spot the new location.

So we wait. I’m actually glad – I need to get my heart rate back down.. It’s at about 148 BPM – and I know if I just stop and do my Yoga breathing – I’ll be fine. But I have to stop.

We stand quietly in the forest – listening and occasionally whispering as Helmut and Andrea fill me in on what happened. Apparently they spotted the Red Panda and started taking pictures when it ran down the tree and within inches of Helmut to disappear into the forest.

Eventually my heart rate goes back to normal (under 100 BPM), and the trackers return. Bad news – they can’t find him. Imagine it – he’s huge, he’s red, and you can’t see him!

Rio explains that the Panda will curl into a ball in the fork of a tree hidden by the moss and ferns – and they are invisible.

Back to plan B

While Andrea and Helmut are disappointed – I’m so thrilled I made the climb I can’t stand it! And Rio comments on how well I did – he actually says – you must have done a lot of climbing in the past. You are a BadAss!

Hee, Hee – I’m definitely not sharing my heart rate with him… I’ll just say thank you – and get myself out of the forest.

I think Mingmar wanted me to need more help!

We get back to the jeeps – and the decision is to drive to the top of the Mountain – because it’s there – and because we’re going to eat Lunch on the top of the Mountain.

If I thought the road was curvy and rough before – I under estimated the effect weather has on these roads. The road to this point was smooth as a baby’s bottom in comparison to what we are now bouncing along on!

We are going from 8,000 feet to 10,000 feet. And the road is basically large unfinished stones that have been laid down and filled in with mud. Even walking on the road would be a challenge – driving it in 4×4 Jeeps is beyond exciting.

Since it’s getting towards noon – the mist has rolled in – and there is nothing to see on the left or the right. Sheer cliffs drop into the mist on both sides as we climb. There are trekking tracks crossing the path (I’m not calling this a road – and neither would you).

Serious Trekkers routinely make this climb – and we pass several small groups on our way up, and up, and up. There are at least three small clusters of buildings – HomeStays, mini-stores, and small square buildings labeled ‘Toilet’ along the route as well.

I peaked into one of the Toilets – they are squat toilets of ceramic- but I suspect that underneath is a Pit. I’ll bet they just move the ‘toilet’s’ each season.

Occasionally there are religious points – recognizable by the 5 color flags draped in banners everywhere – Red for Fire, Blue for Water, White for Purity, Yellow for Sun, Green for Earth. Rio explains that when a Tibetan (Hindu) wants a special favour they will buy a series of these banners and hang them in a spiritual spot. Some are very old, most are newer. But the locations are specific – points of power I’m willing to bet.

We continue up eventually stopping at the Mount Everest view point – but the mist is too thick to see the Mountain. We do however see Yaks.

At the top of the top there is another Military Encampment – and again we must check-in. Then we wander around and eventually go inside to eat Lunch. Guess what’s on the menu…

Did you guess Rice and Chicken! Good for you!

I get a Fanta – my stomach is roiling from the adrenaline of the climb, the twisting of the road, and the altitude. Never has ANYTHING tasted so good.

We are blessed with an occasional clearing moment – but basically the sky is white. In the photographs it looks as if we are standing in front of a Photographers Backdrop – it’s so evenly colored and smooth. Check out today’s photo.. taken at 10,000 feet and looking towards Mount Everest – notable in it’s NOT THERE!

It took 1.5 hours to make the climb. It will take us 3 hours to get down.

I hug Helmut and Andrea – and tell them that words simply can’t describe how happy I am to have been able to do this.

I don’t care that I’m cold, I don’t care that I didn’t see a Red Panda, I don’t care (much) that I didn’t get to see Mount Everest – I have challenged myself and done what I wanted to do!

I am so so so happy.

I’m even willing to use the squat toilet before we start the ride back down!

Since this is our last trip into the Park – we need to stop at each of the Check-points to a) check out for today, and b) check-out completely. At one of the check-points – there’s no solider on duty. So Rio has to go to camp and actually call out. Eventually a solider appears – and apparently understands that we are foreigners checking out.

Back at the ‘low’ altitude of 8,000 feet – we drive thru town – and I spot a chicken butcher. He’s got a whole chicken on a chopping block – and he’s using a Machete to cut it up!

Well – that explains all the bones and random appearing pieces.

Tonight Andrea and Helmut go out and spot a Flying Squirrel. He’s huge – and he does FLY! Well – not fly exactly – kinda spread his legs and arms and coast downward – but it’s very cool.

I’m warming up on my heated mattress pad.. glad to be warm again.

For dinner – Abi makes Biryani for us – he’s the cook in his family – with Chicken of course. It’s delicious. And there’s lovely Sauces to go with it.

We chat, compare photos, and basically say good bye. Tomorrow Abi will leave early for the long drive to Bagdogra Airport, and we will head to Darjeeling. But before we part – we want to be sure to exchange contact information so that we can remain friends.

Eventually it’s not only past my bedtime – it’s past everyone else’s too – and we head downstairs to our beds.

Tomorrow will again be a long day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 12 – Singalila National Park – Day 11


Today starts just like yesterday – Dog Fight, Yoga, Breakfast, Crazy drive up the Mountain.

But unlike yesterday – No Red Panda Sightings.

We wait, and wait – change locations – Wait and Wait.

We get silly and start climbing onto the top of the Jeep for a photo opportunity – check it out on my website – MontrealMadame.com

Lunch – and back down the Mountain.

Sigh

Not to be defeated – Andrea and Helmut decide to go Owl hunting (with cameras). There are also HUGE flying Squirrels here to see – if the team can spot one.

I opt to try to warm up. I’m telling you – I NEED Electric Socks – and a proper sweater. These Mountains get seriously cold when that mist comes in.

What surprises me are the folks who live here. I never got a specific answer as to whether or not they spend the winters in these houses – but it must be very cold. They are still walking around in flip-flops and layers of sweaters. All the houses we’ve seen – either finished or being built – do not have insulation. Nor what we’d call sources of heat other than wood burning fireplaces.

Even the Military Stations appear to not to have insulation in the walls.

I guess if you were born and/or raised here – this would be the norm. But I still find it surprising.

Rio points out again that while the Indian side of the Mountain is fully treed – the Nepal side is tree-less from over cutting. The lack of trees makes the folks who live here have to go far for firewood – and on the Nepal side, I suspect that this means that they are clear-cutting further and further down the Mountain.

My highlight picture of the day – beside us on the Jeep – is a lady making Ghee (clarified butter) on a wood fire. At least she’s warm.

Back to the Owl Hunt – when Andrea and Helmut return – they report spotting 4 Brown Owls – which is confirmed by the British Couple who are sharing our HomeStay with us. But no Flying Squirrels. So they decide to go back out tomorrow night.

Early to bed – which is lovely and warm.

I’m betting on a dog fight again tonight though…

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 11 – Singalila National Park – Day 10


Today we are going to finally see the Red Pandas…

But first there’s breakfast to get thru. The ladies are trying their best to figure out what will make us happy – and today there are Pancakes! That’s a winner – and of course we all enjoy a scrambled egg – Helmut wants his Marsala Style, Andrea and I opt for plain. I’m a fan of the Pomegranate Fruit Juice – it’s quite yummy.

We get an earlier start today – because the spotters are already up and have let Rio know that they think they have a Red Panda spotted. The sooner we get up to Gairibus the better.

It’s truly incredible how quickly these guys can put peddle to the metal – our 1.5 hr drive yesterday is only 1 hr today! Sheesh.

The spotters have a seen a Red Panda in a tree – but a bit further in on the Napel side than Rio would like – but he feels that we really need a Red Panda – so after warning us to be quiet – we start in on a trail thru the Bamboo Forest.

Here’s an alert – no matter how large your group – if you are more than 5 feet apart – you are invisible to each other. The teams know this of course – so they use bird sounds to keep in physical touch without alarming the Red Pandas.

Everyone make the first part of the climb – but pretty soon both Helmut and I decide – we’ve done enough. So we stop – and our minders keep us company. The rest file into the woods – Abi carrying my camera so at least one of us gets the credit for the sighting.

They return after about 30 minutes – the red panda posed nicely for pictures – and Abi managed to get my camera to take photos!

Helmut and I could see the Red Panda from our view point, but it was too far for anything but top end binoculars.

The rest of the team returns – we go for lunch. It’s Chicken again. I’m really wondering why all the bones? After lunch our host tells us that there was another sighting – but they decided we needed to eat so they didn’t tell us. Bummer – this time I would have tried the climb myself. Oh well – there’s tomorrow.

After lunch there are no more sightings – so we head back down the Mountain to our HomeStay. Rio tells us to take a rest – dinner is at 7:30.

I turn on my heated mattress and warm up my toes. Next time I come to the Himalayan Mountains I’m definitely bringing warmer socks and a proper sweater! When the suns out – it’s nice and warm, but when the sun is hidden by the mist – aka Clouds – it’s cold and damp. We’re at 12,000 feet at the top of the Mountain, about 10,000 where the Red Panda’s live – and a much more reasonable 8,000 where we are sleeping.

There is no point not realizing that we are at Altitude. Drink Water – Lots of Water!

Dinner is another Indian Feast – this time featuring Beef. And while the cut is in recognizable, it’s almost a pot roast in tenderness. I quite enjoy it. And again they serve a uniquely Indian Dessert. I’d call it bread pudding actually – although clearly there’s no bread in it – and no pudding! Yummy anyway.

Then bed.

Another early day tomorrow. I’m hoping the dog fight happens at a more reasonable hour… I’m not silly enough to hope for NO Dog fight!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Part 2 – Nov 10 – Singalila National Park – Day 8


PART Two – aka continuing…

Why the security? We are actually driving right along the Napel/India border. As in – one side of the road is Napel and the other side is India. There are signs everywhere that explain that folks who are NOT citizens of India or Napel can not cross the border without an appropriate Visa.

This is a lot harder to avoid than it sounds by the way. All the homestays, all the tea shops, and the tiny tiny stores are on the left side of the road (Napel) because the right side (India) is basically a vertical drop!

The only flat portions on the right side have been ‘claimed’ by the India Military Border Patrol as secure military encampments. The MBP are mainly responsible for catching smugglers – but they also keep track of who comes into these mountains.

Rio stops at the first check-point, and since this is our first trip in – we must fill in forms and sign. Think registering for a hotel with armed security and you have the picture.

On tiny issue – I had sent our amazing Travel Agent – Cristina – both my US and Canadian Passport. But when I filled in the India Visa – it required me to use as my country my place of Residence. So I used my Canadian Passport. When I pointed this out to Rio – his comment – don’t worry – they don’t know that Canada and US aren’t the same place.

Ok then… In any case – I signed, and they seemed happy. At least they waved us thru.

We continue the bumpy curvy hilly drive up and up and up – there are 3 more check-points – again requiring a copy of my passport and Visa – again not worrying about the US/Canadian thing – and finally we reach the Singalila Park Entrance.

A quick comment on Jeeps. Wow. I never appreciated those adds where they show the Jeeps climbing up rocks – but I do now. We are taking almost vertical 170 degree turns every few seconds – What the jeeps lack in cushy comfort they more than make-up in their ability to get up this road.

Turns out that there are only 140 guys certified to drive this road.. No surprise there. Rio says he’s won’t do it – he had a crash. Only the jeep was hurt – but he lost his confidence. And trust me – you need nerves of steel and incredible reflexes to do this kind of driving – on the left, with a gear shift, on a one lane road with 170 degree turns and traffic in both directions.

Our driver explains that there are rules… You must honk before every blind corner (that’s like 90% of them), you must judge who of the passing jeeps has the better place to pull over enough to let the other squeeze past – and you have to be polite.

I’m basically gasping at every turn, and after trying the left hand seat for one drive – have stuck to the inside seats! The sheer drops terrify me.

We finally get to one of the two ‘major’ villages – Gairibus. On the India side is a large military encampment – on the Napel side are two ‘tea shops’, a few homes and up a rocky short road – a ‘Homestay’ that features proper seat-upon toilets! Heaven. Beyond that we’re told not to wonder as we’ve already strayed into Napel.

After our break – we continue on to the next ‘major’ village – Batasi – and from there we are going to walk to a frequent Red Panda Sighting location. I’m game, although I might be sorry later. The hike is almost 2 Km round trip – and we’re following an old Jeep track that has been long abandoned. There are muddy sections and while the path is relatively flat – it’s also headed down hill! We descend about 750 ft in vertical (which we’ll have to climb back up), and get to the ‘we see Panda’s’ here location. Nope.

The spotters check around – Nope. Panda are all curled up in trees – impossible to spot.

We hike back up – get back in our Jeeps, and head back to Gairibus.

We are going to have to try again another day – the clouds have rolled in, our view is gone, and it’s gotten cold.

Lunch is served at the HomeStay with that lovely toilet – it’s a typical Indian repas – so lots and lots of dishes served separately so you mix and match in your rice. There’s what we will discover is mystery Chicken with bones – lots of bones, several different sauces, lots of Rice – and Bottled water.

Helmut gleefully eats his share, and then finishes off what is left on my plate. This is going to be a repeating pattern. They simply won’t let me ‘help my self’ – so there’s always a lot more than I can consume. Helmut is very happy to help!

With no chance to see the Red Pandas – we head back down the Mountain.

It’s 1.5 hr up, and 1.5 hr down – that’s a 3 hour round trip.. which we will be repeating daily trying to find the elusive Red Pandas.

Once back at our HomeStay – we’re told that dinner is at 7:00 – and we can rest. I go back to my room, turn on my Mattress heat to max – and try to warm up. I didn’t bring the right gear – that’s obvious. But tomorrow I’m definitely putting on more layers.

Dinner is lovely – again traditional India – starting with a Ginger Soup, then the main course which is more Chicken with bones in a delicious sauce, vegetables, sliced cucumbers and onions (yum), Dal, and some pickles that Abi warns us are a bit spicy. Helmut loves them.

Dinner done – it’s early to bed. Tomorrow we’re getting an earlier start in hopes of getting up the Mountains early enough to spot those Red Pandas.

I sure hope we do!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 10 – Singalila National Park – Day 8


After yesterday’s harrowing journey – getting woken up to the sounds of a serious dog fight – apparently right outside my window – doesn’t surprise me.

We left an absolutely fabulous HomeStay in Kathoni, driven 8 hours the last 2 of which can best be described as nauseating – and I’m woken to a Dog fight. Just figures.

But not one to not give places a chance – I shiver my way out of bed and say a quick mental thank goodness to our host who has equipped every bed with an electric mattress warmer that works a treat!

First things first – I need a place to do my Yoga – and my room is way too small. I go up stairs to the kitchen/dining area and find our host – Roi. He says – use the prayer room.

Hmm – ok I guess. Yoga is very meditative – and our hosts are Tibetan – so it works.

The prayer room is just the right size with a nice rug on the floor. I put down my Yoga Mat and I’m facing a wall sized Tibetan Shrine. There are 3 large ‘goddess’ statues plus several smaller ones. 6 beautiful metal cups are carefully placed in front of the shrine, and there is an incense burner.

The room is calm and peaceful – perfect for Yoga!

When I’m done – I cross the hall to the dining area to join Helmut and Andrea for Breakfast. It’s a bit of learning experience – the 5 gals that work in the open kitchen are determined to please us – and start by throwing at us all the food they think we might want.

We’re talking Indian Breakfast options like puffed rice that is yesterdays rice – re-fried, cereals, breads the like of which I’ve never seen, two types of juice – Guava and Orange today – Porridge, eggs, jam, honey, coffee, tea, chicken sausages… They basically fill the table and watch what we eat.

Problem – I’m still feeling a bit like I spent too long on a very rough, very curvy road – and despite a decent sleep – eating just isn’t working right now.

But I need to take my Malaria Pills – and experience has shown that doing that on an empty stomach is a recipe for disaster – so I pick thru the bounty trying for bland as possible. I succeed and swallow the pills.

Now it’s time to start our first Safari into the Singalila National Park.

We are currently at about 4000 feet (up from sea level just yesterday), and the Park itself starts at about 7000 feet and extends up to over 9000 feet. This is pretty high Altitude – and I have had Altitude issues in the past – but I know now to take it easy on the first day for fear of Collapsing.

We are assigned our ‘jeeps’ for the 4 days we’ll be doing safari’s here. I’m the only guest in my jeep – there’s also the driver – Schwan – the owner and boss of the team – Roi, and my personal assistant – Mingwa

Apparently it’s been determined that I’m quite fragile – and will need a personal porter. Well, I’m not sending Mingwa home. He’s young (23) and sweet – and is willing to carry my camera. Since I figure I’ll need both hands free to hike into the Bamboo Forests to see the Red Panda – I’m fine with that.

Helmut and Andrea are in a 2nd jeep with a driver and the 2nd in command – Sergio. In a 3rd jeep are a British Couple (he 78 and in pretty decent shape – she’s a bit younger but quite ill. I think this is a bucket trip for them).

We head out – and immediately get stopped – the 100 K Himalayan Challenge Run is happening – and they are going thru our little village! There folks are insane – they are going to RUN (ok – not all run, some will end up stumbling) up 2000 Vertical feet on a road that makes a roller coaster look like a super highway. OMG.

When the police deem it safe, we pull out and head up following the same (and only) road that the runners are using. As we pass each group I cheer and wave – because I remember what if felt like when I did 5 Ks on flat ground… hearing someone cheer for you is deeply motivating and highly personal, even if you don’t know them.

Nothing in all the write-ups I read mentioned the road you must take to get to the area where the Red Panda’s are found.

If you go to MontrealMadame.com – you’ll see a map of this area – we’re driving from Manebhanjyang to the area between Gairibus and Batasi.

On the map it looks so so short – but it’s 1.5 hours of the narrowest, steepest, pot-holed filled road I’ve ever seen.

The drivers are specially trained – and there are only 108 jeeps in Manebhaniyang with about 130 drivers available. Naturally some are better than others – and they all know each other! Most grew up together – so it isn’t a surprise when more often than not our driver will roll down his window and say hi to the driver headed the other way.

The road actually looks pretty good for the first 100 yards maybe.. then you hit the first 170 degree turn – and you realize – wow – this road is really really curvy.

The ‘straight’ parts last about twice as long as the curves – and you literally corkscrew your way up one Mountain and then down and up another one even higher, then down.. repeat and repeat and repeat.

To add interest – along the way is a Tibetan Monastery, several small villages, and 4 military check-points. These are spaced fairly evenly along the road and maned by soldiers who take their job seriously.

We are blest with a clear clear sky – and the views are simply amazing! The sun is at the exactly right angle to allow the layers of Mountain Greenery to glow in different shades of Green and Blue – Culminating in a lovely view of the White Capped “Sleeping Buddha” – the tallest mountain in India. Wow.

Since this is our first trip up the road – our passports are verified and a copy kept for their records, our guide has to verify for us – and the soldiers peek into the jeep to be assured that the folks the guide has said are inside are in fact inside.

The first check-point is the most serious – and all the soldiers are armed and dressed in camouflage from head to toes. Once you’ve completed the check-in – they do smile and wave you on.

Why the security? We are actually driving right along the Napel/India border.

Want to know what happens next? Check out Part 2 of Nov 10.

Nov 8 – Last chance for Tigers – and I go shopping!


Again it’s Yoga, quick breakfast, and we’re off. Today we’re going to hit the West side of the Kaziranga Park. It’s not ‘known’ for seeing the tigers – but the crowding has just beaten us down!

It’s a bit of a longer drive – so we start a bit earlier – and still get to the park at opening bell. Good news – it’s so early the Ranger’s aren’t even ready!

So at least we’re going to be doing this at the earliest possible time, and while it’s unlikely we’ll see Tigers, we’re betting that at least the bird and other animal population will put on a good photographic effort.

Good news and Bad news – we were right on both accounts.

No Tigers (that’s the bad news) – a video of an Amazing Rhino Mate-ing session (the male lost this round) – and lots of close-up encounters with birds and Rhinos, Wild Pigs and Buffalo – and lots of Photo stops. It’s a far easier to focus on the pictures you are taking when there are no other jeeps buzzing past you – or worse sitting behind you looking disappointed.

It’s fun, it’s beautiful – and yes – I’m disappointed that we managed not to see any Tigers.

We did stop at a look-out tower that offered three interesting things:

  1. A toilet. No it didn’t flush, and no there was no place to sit, and yes I provided my own toilet paper – but it had a door that closed and locked (double success) and all my squat work-outs with Mona have strengthened my legs so – well – I could do what needed to be to be done.
  2. A sign showing all the Flood Levels over the years – as measured at this particular tower. Wow – these guys get seriously flooded. Big years (like over my head!) were 1988, 2017, 2019, 2024, and 1998. That means the water not only went over its banks – but it went over the footings of the tower, and reached over 5’ up the posts supporting the first floor. And that happened just this summer for the 5th time since 2014 when the tower was built. My photo is on the blog if you go to http://www.MontrealMadame.com
  3. Another sign gave the Animal Census result as of 2022

Animal Census Results:

  1. Greater One Horned Rhinoceros: 2613
  2. Royal Bengal Tiger: 104
  3. Asiatic Wild Buffalo: 2565
  4. Asiatic Elephants: 1200+ (2024)
  5. Eastern Swamp Deer: 1129
  6. Important Bird #’s: 553 Species including 25 Globally Important Species

Photo’s taken and bathroom break finished, we are leaving the park when Abi suddenly says to our driver – turn right then back up NOW! He’s speaking Hindi – but it’s impossible not to miss his meaning.

The driver is surprised – but after some reinforcement – does what Abi says. We end up on the left side of the road – back to the park, front to the entrance – looking toward the Park. Perfect lighting!

There’s a Male Rhino on one side of the road, a Female Rhino on the other side – who is going ‘Huff, Huff, Huff’. And about 8 Jeeps parked on the sides – just waiting.

We get our cameras ready- and I actually decide to try to use my iphone to film this. Abi says – they are either going to fight or mate – just watch.

So we watch.

After a few minutes of pawing the ground – the Male (on my left – other side of the road) – starts moving up and across and then down the other side. Not munching speed – but a lot lot fast. I think that’s a Rhino fast walk.

He goes nose to nose to the clearly in Heat Female – and they exchange Huffs getting louder and louder. Then she charges! OMG – she’s going to butt him!

He spins around (I didn’t know Rhinos could do that) – and starts running – these may the large animals – but they are FAST!

The Female is in hot pursuit – and they both hit the pond just below us with a gigantic splash. Our driver – who is rather new at this – gets scared and puts his foot on the gas – we scream STOP!!! We’re Filming!!!!

The Rhinos complete the dash across the pond – then the Male finally gets clear – or the Female thinks she’s made her point… They calmly – like nothing happened – get back into their original positions – the Male on one side of the road – the female on the other – and they calmly put their noses down and start munching.

Excitement over team – you all can go now.

Whew!

Since time is almost up (we must be out of the park by noon) we head to the exit, stop for a bit of T-shirt shopping, and then head for Lunch.

After that excitement – you’d think lunch could only be a let down – but you’d be WRONG!

Abi knew a gal who is running a cooperative looming group for women of the area. She had spinning wheel, 3 full size looms – a full manual, a more Automated (there are strings to pull the shuttles, you don’t pass it by hand, and a Jacquard Loom. She explains that there are a team of women who come and spend time making cloth for Saris and finished placemats for sale. In addition, she’s been working on getting women committed to getting an education, and involved in a lot of other community projects. I’m impressed.

They bring us into their ‘back space’ – aka restaurant – and serve us a lovely vegetarian lunch. We start the meal with prayers, and end the meal with prayers. It’s all very calm and wonderful.

Yes – I bought some cloth… How could I not, right? But since I had no money (long silly credit card story) – Abi covers my debt. I’ll pay him back later. Meanwhile my big suitcase is suddenly a lot heavier…

We leave, wander back to our lovely HomeStay – and take a bit of a rest before an early dinner. Tonight our host has invited (for the first time ever) a group of 10 Tea People dancers who will be performing for us.

The host and I walk the space where the dancers will be performing – and to no ones surprise, I make some suggestions about the lighting. He has bought lanterns to put in around the dancing space – but I suggest that instead we line-up the lanterns in front and then block the light going into the eyes of the audience. He listens to my suggestions – and to my completely surprise – has his team make the changes.

Now we can actually see the performers faces! And the change has brought the audience much closer! You can thank me later…

The music is wonderful – drums and singing by the male dancers – while the women do their dancing in circles and in lines in front of the guys. Can anyone say – mating ritual?

They invite Andrea and I into the circle – and she says – come on – let’s go. Never one to miss a chance to party – I join the group. With any luck at all the videos will never get off of Helmut’s cell phone! I just hope they don’t go viral.

Then it’s time to thank the dancers for their efforts – comment on the beauty of their dancing – and head upstairs to bed.

No surprise – but tomorrow is another early day. We have an 8 hour drive ahead of us.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 7 – Kaziranga National Park – Day 6


Sunrise – Yoga – Quick Coffee and cake – and we’re off.

Today we are going to hit the Central Entrance twice – morning and afternoon. So Lunch is going to be in the major tourist area around the entrance.

True to plan – we arrive at the opening bell and enter the park as the 2nd jeep. Cool.

And immediately run into the daily Elephant Ride! There is a ride at 5:00 AM, and a second at 6:30 – and the 6:30 one ends at 8:00 – so as we enter the park – they are just leaving!

Of course these are domestic Elephants – with slightly pink ears. Each Elephant has a driver with a long stick to provide the Elephant with directions – and on their back is a platform that holds 4 people – 2 to a side. They have ‘seat belts’, and even so seem to be leaning downwards. I guess they know what they are doing.

All I can say is you couldn’t catch me on one of these! First – there are probably 60 Elephants walking past us – so for most the front and back view is the Butt of one Elephant and the Head of another. And if you are sitting on one side – that’s your view. No way to turn around in your seat. And here’s the worst part – the Elephant bumps and sways – no way you are getting a decent picture.

But hey – they got to see us!

We prowl the park trying to find a tiger. We do spot some monkeys, plenty of one-horned Rhinos and some deer – but tiger’s are on holiday! Abi even tries having the driver stop to car and just stand still at a known tiger crossing – but no matter how long we wait – there’s no tiger showing up.

We do see a large reptile in his home in a tree trunk, and watch an eagle take off, catch a snake on the ground and then gracefully fly back to his perch to spot another tasty morsel. This is rather cool.

But no dice on the Tiger.

For Lunch we go to one of the nicest hotels/restaurants near the Central Entrance – the Igore. Delicious.

Back to the Park Entrance – more tourists, more noise, more cars – and no Tigers.

Bummer. 4 Safari’s done – and no tiger.. Just one left to go.

We make it back to the Park Entrance right at 5:00 – and they nicely don’t give Abi a warning. Whew.

On the way back to our place – we again drive thru the villages of the tea people – and realize they are having a celebration.

They have set up a tent made of bamboo poles by the river – and women and girls have gathered by the river. The men are sitting in chairs in the tent – and there’s music and singing. I will always stop for festivals – particularly ones that seem religious and this one looks perfect.

Abi directs the driver to park the car, and we hop out. We admire from afar – but then one of the men chats a bit with Abi – and we’re invited down to see what is going on – and are welcome to take pictures.

Cool!

The festival is in celebration of the Water Goddess – and Sunrise. They celebrate by carrying baskets of food down to the river, spend the night singing and praying and fasting, and then at dawn – go for a swim in the river and break their fast.

We are invited to sit with them to sing along – and then someone works up the nerve to ask if we’ll pose for a picture with them. That opens the flood gates – soon everyone wants a picture – from little 3-5 year olds to grannies and grandpas. We are the hit of the day!

As we are leaving – a group of young teen boys – who have been holding back and trying to look too mature for this – approach me for a hand-shake. I shake each and every one of their hands – wishing them health and Happiness.

Oh was this fun!

When we get back to the HomeStay – our host reports that one of the villagers had figured out we were staying with him – and had called him to let him know we’d be late for dinner because we were at the festival. This is a very small world.

I’m so glad we stopped – I had so much fun!

Great dinner – early ish to bed – tomorrow is another early day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady