Category Archives: Singalila (Nepal Border)

Nov 14 – A Religious High and a Fabulous Hotel – Day 13


6 Years, 6 months, 6 weeks, 6 days, 6 hours, 6 minutes.

As per Rio – That’s how long a Tibetan Monk meditates to ascend to a higher rank. There’s also a 3 year, 3 month, 3 week, 3 day, 3 hour, 3 minute option to obtain a lower rank. In case you are interested.

We start today with a visit to the beautiful Tibetan Monastery that is about 1/4 of the way up that same winding road we’ve been taking – over and over again.

But this time after a hair-raising drive thru town, we pull into the unearthly quiet of a lovely Monastery perched on a flat piece of ground on the Nepal side of the road.

Rio – who is Tibetan – walks us thru the Monastery. We spin the prayer wheels waking slowly from wheel to wheel and concentrating on our thoughts and we see the ‘Monk’ only residence for Monk who are doing a mediation – 6 years, 6 months, 6 weeks, 6 days, 6 hours, 6 minutes – with only one acolyte in attendance to help as he needs it.

There is a yearly Retreat held here with hundreds of Tibetans seeking enlightenment held here in the Retreat Hall, and housing cascading down the hillside for the younger monks in training or I suppose the folks who come on Retreat. There is no question that this is a power point in the world. Even I can feel that this is a very special place.

It is the oldest Tibetan Monastery in the world. There are others that are much fancier – but this was the first. And it’s obvious why.

We take the required photos, and eventually leave. We still must drive to Darjeeling, check-into our next hotel, and eat lunch at the fancy restaurant I’ve been promised!

By Helmut’s mapping app – we should be about 1 hr from Darjeeling – and we can even see it across the valley. It looks close enough to touch, but nothing is as it seems in this part of the world!

I suppose it’s not a surprise to be told that while the crow flies, Darjeeling is very close, by car it’s a lot lot further. And when we finally reach the outskirts of Darjeeling we find out why.

One of the Major Political Figures is coming TODAY to open a new outdoor shopping experience, with many small booths dedicated to selling hand-made product from each province in India. There’s music, there are flags, there are dancers, drummers and singers, and there is no driving thru!

Our driver has to stop at each of the barricades to explain he’s got guests who are going to the Elgin. That name clearly holds power because each time he uses it – the Barriers go down, and we are waved or saluted thru! Hmmm – I’m wondering what the Elgin is?

Eventually (1.5 hrs – anyone surprised) we arrive at a lovely wrought iron gate manned by a gentleman in uniform. Our driver explains who we are – and we are saluted thru the gate and into a driveway that ends at one of the most beautiful hotels I’ve ever seen.

Originally built over 125 years ago (1887) – it’s been maintained in the traditional style except for the addition of modern plumbing – including a huge deep Bathtub, and Room heaters.

We’re greeted – offered a drink – and given a small gift to welcome us to the hotel. Photo’s dot the walls reflecting the glorious past of this hotel, and there is staff ready to escort us to our rooms.

My room is warm and huge. Actually about 3 or 4 times the size of my room at the HomeStay – and with the most beautiful thing I’ve seen in a week. A bathtub. I’m not alone about focusing on the bathtub – I no sooner get into my room than I get a photo from Andrea – it’s Helmut in the Bathtub!

We regroup – and head out to lunch. Rio knows the way (of course – I think he knows the way everywhere) and we find ourselves in the middle of the main shopping street and smack dab in the center of the crowd gathering to greet the arriving Politician Mamata Banerjee. I immediately get distracted by a group of dancers in lovely Saris – and Andrea gets sent to find me and drag me back to the group! (Sigh)

We walk thru the town to a restaurant called Glenary – it was originally a pastry shop – and has morphed into a 3 story Restaurant, Pastry Shop, Bar that is a popular favorite. And it serves Steak.

Rio basically tells us – you must order the steak, so we do. I also try to order something fried. I’ve discovered that the fried foods tend to agree better with my stomach, and after several attempts – waiter takes the order, returns to say – we’re out, takes another order – returns to say we’re out – until finally I ask – well what do you have – and it’s the Chinese style fried chicken that is available.

We relax, have drinks – they have a choice of beer – Helmut is so happy. This part of India isn’t alcohol free – but it’s been a challenge to source beer – and this time he gets to choose! First time since we arrived that there’s been not only beer, but a choice of beers.

Our Chinese fried chicken arrives – and it’s perfect. I’d have been perfectly happy with just that for lunch. The steaks are served – and my doubts are in fact set in front of me. This isn’t steak, although I’ll agree that it’s beef. It’s just a much larger serving of what I’d call pot roast than the one we got the other evening at the HomeStay.

We do our best, but no one can finish their potion – even with Helmut taking 1/2 of Andrea’s. So after some discussion – Rio takes the remainder back with him. I think his plan is to feed the ‘homeless’ dogs that live near his HomeStay – because he’s let the car go with his 2nd in command. They have to go pick up a new guest from Bagdogra Airport. Rio is going home by public transport.

He insists on walking us back to the hotel – I think they think we will get lost if we wander outside of their protective vision – and we say good-bye.

We opt to return to our rooms and give those bathtubs a good hard workout. I actually wash my hair TWICE. I’d been making do with a washcloth and a quick wipe because the room was so cold. But with a warm bathtub, a proper bathroom and – wow – a Bathrobe – well, I’m ready to get comfy.

We opt to meet at 7:30 for a drink in the bar of the hotel. And you can envision the Raj arriving to greet folks.

It reminds me of scenes from the movie – The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. At one point they go into a private club – and I promise you – this could have been where they filmed that section.

I’m so relaxed that I make the beginning traveler’s mistake of ordering a Pina Colada. Silly me – of course they can’t make one. What was I thinking! But I’m so happy and so warm and so clean I don’t really care. We chat, go over some of our adventures, and basically say good-bye.

Tomorrow I’m leaving – starting my journey home while Helmut and Andrea will continue the adventure – several days in Darjeeling to explore, than visits to Gangtok, Pelling, the Rabdanste ruins, Ravangla, Kalimpong, Sunderbans National Park, Corbett National Park, and the Corbett Tiger Reserve. I know they will have a blast, but I’m ready to head back home.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 13 – Singalila National Park – Day 12


Last day – we NEED a Red Panda!

And we wake to the good news – the spotters have one and we need to go NOW!

This time I’m determined to brave the Bamboo Forest.. but first I must brave the ride up the Mountain. This just doesn’t get easier.

To comfort me – Rio promises that tomorrow – our travel day – will feature a visit to a Tibetan Monastery in Nepal – and the best Resturant in Darjeeling.

Deal!

Final the jeeps stop at the closest trail into the Red Panda’s location – and we all jump (well – I slowly slide) out of the jeep and start the climb. The spotters have been holding the Panda in his tree – it’s a juvenile- not the same one spotted two days ago – but in the same location.

I’m the tail of the line – Andrea is moving at full speed, with Helmut close behind her but I’m just trying not to hurt myself.

I have on my good Utah ‘boot’s’ with their deep rubber cut soles, and a hiking stick for my right hand. I need to be sure that my right knee doesn’t take any twisting.

Mingmar is sticking to me like glue. We hike past the point that I ‘quit’ last time – and follow the narrow track (about 6” wide – not a typo – 6 inches wide) into the bamboo forest.

As before – the bamboo is so dense here that you can’t see more than a few feet ahead – but I’ll be honest – my view is my FEET! I put each foot down carefully, making sure I’m steady on that foot before shifting to the next.

The path is up and down small but steep terrain. Maybe 5 steps down, two steps across a muddy patch, then 5 steps up. 2 steps across the top of the ridge, then 5 steps down. Repeat.

I don’t think I’m scared – but my heart rate would disagree with that. I’m going slowly – but super carefully – and my heart rate is going up and up. It’s mostly the adrenaline and the Altitude combined to fuel my increasing heart rate, not really the exercise.

We are suddenly very close to the Panda sighting – and we stop to decide where everyone else is standing. The team with me starts whistling – and we hear whistles coming back at us.

There’s one problem – At least for me. I can’t tell where the returning whistles are coming from!

Apparently Mingmar is also having trouble deciding – since he tells me NOT TO MOVE – and goes in first one direction, and then the other.

I am most definitely not moving.

If I got lost – I don’t know how to whistle!

Suddenly the team with Andrea and Helmut appears. The Panda has changed trees – he came down the tree, ran within inches of Helmut (there are BIG animals – so think a large large large dog with a really long tail) and then disappeared.

The decision is to re-group and wait to see if the trackers can spot the new location.

So we wait. I’m actually glad – I need to get my heart rate back down.. It’s at about 148 BPM – and I know if I just stop and do my Yoga breathing – I’ll be fine. But I have to stop.

We stand quietly in the forest – listening and occasionally whispering as Helmut and Andrea fill me in on what happened. Apparently they spotted the Red Panda and started taking pictures when it ran down the tree and within inches of Helmut to disappear into the forest.

Eventually my heart rate goes back to normal (under 100 BPM), and the trackers return. Bad news – they can’t find him. Imagine it – he’s huge, he’s red, and you can’t see him!

Rio explains that the Panda will curl into a ball in the fork of a tree hidden by the moss and ferns – and they are invisible.

Back to plan B

While Andrea and Helmut are disappointed – I’m so thrilled I made the climb I can’t stand it! And Rio comments on how well I did – he actually says – you must have done a lot of climbing in the past. You are a BadAss!

Hee, Hee – I’m definitely not sharing my heart rate with him… I’ll just say thank you – and get myself out of the forest.

I think Mingmar wanted me to need more help!

We get back to the jeeps – and the decision is to drive to the top of the Mountain – because it’s there – and because we’re going to eat Lunch on the top of the Mountain.

If I thought the road was curvy and rough before – I under estimated the effect weather has on these roads. The road to this point was smooth as a baby’s bottom in comparison to what we are now bouncing along on!

We are going from 8,000 feet to 10,000 feet. And the road is basically large unfinished stones that have been laid down and filled in with mud. Even walking on the road would be a challenge – driving it in 4×4 Jeeps is beyond exciting.

Since it’s getting towards noon – the mist has rolled in – and there is nothing to see on the left or the right. Sheer cliffs drop into the mist on both sides as we climb. There are trekking tracks crossing the path (I’m not calling this a road – and neither would you).

Serious Trekkers routinely make this climb – and we pass several small groups on our way up, and up, and up. There are at least three small clusters of buildings – HomeStays, mini-stores, and small square buildings labeled ‘Toilet’ along the route as well.

I peaked into one of the Toilets – they are squat toilets of ceramic- but I suspect that underneath is a Pit. I’ll bet they just move the ‘toilet’s’ each season.

Occasionally there are religious points – recognizable by the 5 color flags draped in banners everywhere – Red for Fire, Blue for Water, White for Purity, Yellow for Sun, Green for Earth. Rio explains that when a Tibetan (Hindu) wants a special favour they will buy a series of these banners and hang them in a spiritual spot. Some are very old, most are newer. But the locations are specific – points of power I’m willing to bet.

We continue up eventually stopping at the Mount Everest view point – but the mist is too thick to see the Mountain. We do however see Yaks.

At the top of the top there is another Military Encampment – and again we must check-in. Then we wander around and eventually go inside to eat Lunch. Guess what’s on the menu…

Did you guess Rice and Chicken! Good for you!

I get a Fanta – my stomach is roiling from the adrenaline of the climb, the twisting of the road, and the altitude. Never has ANYTHING tasted so good.

We are blessed with an occasional clearing moment – but basically the sky is white. In the photographs it looks as if we are standing in front of a Photographers Backdrop – it’s so evenly colored and smooth. Check out today’s photo.. taken at 10,000 feet and looking towards Mount Everest – notable in it’s NOT THERE!

It took 1.5 hours to make the climb. It will take us 3 hours to get down.

I hug Helmut and Andrea – and tell them that words simply can’t describe how happy I am to have been able to do this.

I don’t care that I’m cold, I don’t care that I didn’t see a Red Panda, I don’t care (much) that I didn’t get to see Mount Everest – I have challenged myself and done what I wanted to do!

I am so so so happy.

I’m even willing to use the squat toilet before we start the ride back down!

Since this is our last trip into the Park – we need to stop at each of the Check-points to a) check out for today, and b) check-out completely. At one of the check-points – there’s no solider on duty. So Rio has to go to camp and actually call out. Eventually a solider appears – and apparently understands that we are foreigners checking out.

Back at the ‘low’ altitude of 8,000 feet – we drive thru town – and I spot a chicken butcher. He’s got a whole chicken on a chopping block – and he’s using a Machete to cut it up!

Well – that explains all the bones and random appearing pieces.

Tonight Andrea and Helmut go out and spot a Flying Squirrel. He’s huge – and he does FLY! Well – not fly exactly – kinda spread his legs and arms and coast downward – but it’s very cool.

I’m warming up on my heated mattress pad.. glad to be warm again.

For dinner – Abi makes Biryani for us – he’s the cook in his family – with Chicken of course. It’s delicious. And there’s lovely Sauces to go with it.

We chat, compare photos, and basically say good bye. Tomorrow Abi will leave early for the long drive to Bagdogra Airport, and we will head to Darjeeling. But before we part – we want to be sure to exchange contact information so that we can remain friends.

Eventually it’s not only past my bedtime – it’s past everyone else’s too – and we head downstairs to our beds.

Tomorrow will again be a long day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 12 – Singalila National Park – Day 11


Today starts just like yesterday – Dog Fight, Yoga, Breakfast, Crazy drive up the Mountain.

But unlike yesterday – No Red Panda Sightings.

We wait, and wait – change locations – Wait and Wait.

We get silly and start climbing onto the top of the Jeep for a photo opportunity – check it out on my website – MontrealMadame.com

Lunch – and back down the Mountain.

Sigh

Not to be defeated – Andrea and Helmut decide to go Owl hunting (with cameras). There are also HUGE flying Squirrels here to see – if the team can spot one.

I opt to try to warm up. I’m telling you – I NEED Electric Socks – and a proper sweater. These Mountains get seriously cold when that mist comes in.

What surprises me are the folks who live here. I never got a specific answer as to whether or not they spend the winters in these houses – but it must be very cold. They are still walking around in flip-flops and layers of sweaters. All the houses we’ve seen – either finished or being built – do not have insulation. Nor what we’d call sources of heat other than wood burning fireplaces.

Even the Military Stations appear to not to have insulation in the walls.

I guess if you were born and/or raised here – this would be the norm. But I still find it surprising.

Rio points out again that while the Indian side of the Mountain is fully treed – the Nepal side is tree-less from over cutting. The lack of trees makes the folks who live here have to go far for firewood – and on the Nepal side, I suspect that this means that they are clear-cutting further and further down the Mountain.

My highlight picture of the day – beside us on the Jeep – is a lady making Ghee (clarified butter) on a wood fire. At least she’s warm.

Back to the Owl Hunt – when Andrea and Helmut return – they report spotting 4 Brown Owls – which is confirmed by the British Couple who are sharing our HomeStay with us. But no Flying Squirrels. So they decide to go back out tomorrow night.

Early to bed – which is lovely and warm.

I’m betting on a dog fight again tonight though…

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 11 – Singalila National Park – Day 10


Today we are going to finally see the Red Pandas…

But first there’s breakfast to get thru. The ladies are trying their best to figure out what will make us happy – and today there are Pancakes! That’s a winner – and of course we all enjoy a scrambled egg – Helmut wants his Marsala Style, Andrea and I opt for plain. I’m a fan of the Pomegranate Fruit Juice – it’s quite yummy.

We get an earlier start today – because the spotters are already up and have let Rio know that they think they have a Red Panda spotted. The sooner we get up to Gairibus the better.

It’s truly incredible how quickly these guys can put peddle to the metal – our 1.5 hr drive yesterday is only 1 hr today! Sheesh.

The spotters have a seen a Red Panda in a tree – but a bit further in on the Napel side than Rio would like – but he feels that we really need a Red Panda – so after warning us to be quiet – we start in on a trail thru the Bamboo Forest.

Here’s an alert – no matter how large your group – if you are more than 5 feet apart – you are invisible to each other. The teams know this of course – so they use bird sounds to keep in physical touch without alarming the Red Pandas.

Everyone make the first part of the climb – but pretty soon both Helmut and I decide – we’ve done enough. So we stop – and our minders keep us company. The rest file into the woods – Abi carrying my camera so at least one of us gets the credit for the sighting.

They return after about 30 minutes – the red panda posed nicely for pictures – and Abi managed to get my camera to take photos!

Helmut and I could see the Red Panda from our view point, but it was too far for anything but top end binoculars.

The rest of the team returns – we go for lunch. It’s Chicken again. I’m really wondering why all the bones? After lunch our host tells us that there was another sighting – but they decided we needed to eat so they didn’t tell us. Bummer – this time I would have tried the climb myself. Oh well – there’s tomorrow.

After lunch there are no more sightings – so we head back down the Mountain to our HomeStay. Rio tells us to take a rest – dinner is at 7:30.

I turn on my heated mattress and warm up my toes. Next time I come to the Himalayan Mountains I’m definitely bringing warmer socks and a proper sweater! When the suns out – it’s nice and warm, but when the sun is hidden by the mist – aka Clouds – it’s cold and damp. We’re at 12,000 feet at the top of the Mountain, about 10,000 where the Red Panda’s live – and a much more reasonable 8,000 where we are sleeping.

There is no point not realizing that we are at Altitude. Drink Water – Lots of Water!

Dinner is another Indian Feast – this time featuring Beef. And while the cut is in recognizable, it’s almost a pot roast in tenderness. I quite enjoy it. And again they serve a uniquely Indian Dessert. I’d call it bread pudding actually – although clearly there’s no bread in it – and no pudding! Yummy anyway.

Then bed.

Another early day tomorrow. I’m hoping the dog fight happens at a more reasonable hour… I’m not silly enough to hope for NO Dog fight!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Part 2 – Nov 10 – Singalila National Park – Day 8


PART Two – aka continuing…

Why the security? We are actually driving right along the Napel/India border. As in – one side of the road is Napel and the other side is India. There are signs everywhere that explain that folks who are NOT citizens of India or Napel can not cross the border without an appropriate Visa.

This is a lot harder to avoid than it sounds by the way. All the homestays, all the tea shops, and the tiny tiny stores are on the left side of the road (Napel) because the right side (India) is basically a vertical drop!

The only flat portions on the right side have been ‘claimed’ by the India Military Border Patrol as secure military encampments. The MBP are mainly responsible for catching smugglers – but they also keep track of who comes into these mountains.

Rio stops at the first check-point, and since this is our first trip in – we must fill in forms and sign. Think registering for a hotel with armed security and you have the picture.

On tiny issue – I had sent our amazing Travel Agent – Cristina – both my US and Canadian Passport. But when I filled in the India Visa – it required me to use as my country my place of Residence. So I used my Canadian Passport. When I pointed this out to Rio – his comment – don’t worry – they don’t know that Canada and US aren’t the same place.

Ok then… In any case – I signed, and they seemed happy. At least they waved us thru.

We continue the bumpy curvy hilly drive up and up and up – there are 3 more check-points – again requiring a copy of my passport and Visa – again not worrying about the US/Canadian thing – and finally we reach the Singalila Park Entrance.

A quick comment on Jeeps. Wow. I never appreciated those adds where they show the Jeeps climbing up rocks – but I do now. We are taking almost vertical 170 degree turns every few seconds – What the jeeps lack in cushy comfort they more than make-up in their ability to get up this road.

Turns out that there are only 140 guys certified to drive this road.. No surprise there. Rio says he’s won’t do it – he had a crash. Only the jeep was hurt – but he lost his confidence. And trust me – you need nerves of steel and incredible reflexes to do this kind of driving – on the left, with a gear shift, on a one lane road with 170 degree turns and traffic in both directions.

Our driver explains that there are rules… You must honk before every blind corner (that’s like 90% of them), you must judge who of the passing jeeps has the better place to pull over enough to let the other squeeze past – and you have to be polite.

I’m basically gasping at every turn, and after trying the left hand seat for one drive – have stuck to the inside seats! The sheer drops terrify me.

We finally get to one of the two ‘major’ villages – Gairibus. On the India side is a large military encampment – on the Napel side are two ‘tea shops’, a few homes and up a rocky short road – a ‘Homestay’ that features proper seat-upon toilets! Heaven. Beyond that we’re told not to wonder as we’ve already strayed into Napel.

After our break – we continue on to the next ‘major’ village – Batasi – and from there we are going to walk to a frequent Red Panda Sighting location. I’m game, although I might be sorry later. The hike is almost 2 Km round trip – and we’re following an old Jeep track that has been long abandoned. There are muddy sections and while the path is relatively flat – it’s also headed down hill! We descend about 750 ft in vertical (which we’ll have to climb back up), and get to the ‘we see Panda’s’ here location. Nope.

The spotters check around – Nope. Panda are all curled up in trees – impossible to spot.

We hike back up – get back in our Jeeps, and head back to Gairibus.

We are going to have to try again another day – the clouds have rolled in, our view is gone, and it’s gotten cold.

Lunch is served at the HomeStay with that lovely toilet – it’s a typical Indian repas – so lots and lots of dishes served separately so you mix and match in your rice. There’s what we will discover is mystery Chicken with bones – lots of bones, several different sauces, lots of Rice – and Bottled water.

Helmut gleefully eats his share, and then finishes off what is left on my plate. This is going to be a repeating pattern. They simply won’t let me ‘help my self’ – so there’s always a lot more than I can consume. Helmut is very happy to help!

With no chance to see the Red Pandas – we head back down the Mountain.

It’s 1.5 hr up, and 1.5 hr down – that’s a 3 hour round trip.. which we will be repeating daily trying to find the elusive Red Pandas.

Once back at our HomeStay – we’re told that dinner is at 7:00 – and we can rest. I go back to my room, turn on my Mattress heat to max – and try to warm up. I didn’t bring the right gear – that’s obvious. But tomorrow I’m definitely putting on more layers.

Dinner is lovely – again traditional India – starting with a Ginger Soup, then the main course which is more Chicken with bones in a delicious sauce, vegetables, sliced cucumbers and onions (yum), Dal, and some pickles that Abi warns us are a bit spicy. Helmut loves them.

Dinner done – it’s early to bed. Tomorrow we’re getting an earlier start in hopes of getting up the Mountains early enough to spot those Red Pandas.

I sure hope we do!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 10 – Singalila National Park – Day 8


After yesterday’s harrowing journey – getting woken up to the sounds of a serious dog fight – apparently right outside my window – doesn’t surprise me.

We left an absolutely fabulous HomeStay in Kathoni, driven 8 hours the last 2 of which can best be described as nauseating – and I’m woken to a Dog fight. Just figures.

But not one to not give places a chance – I shiver my way out of bed and say a quick mental thank goodness to our host who has equipped every bed with an electric mattress warmer that works a treat!

First things first – I need a place to do my Yoga – and my room is way too small. I go up stairs to the kitchen/dining area and find our host – Roi. He says – use the prayer room.

Hmm – ok I guess. Yoga is very meditative – and our hosts are Tibetan – so it works.

The prayer room is just the right size with a nice rug on the floor. I put down my Yoga Mat and I’m facing a wall sized Tibetan Shrine. There are 3 large ‘goddess’ statues plus several smaller ones. 6 beautiful metal cups are carefully placed in front of the shrine, and there is an incense burner.

The room is calm and peaceful – perfect for Yoga!

When I’m done – I cross the hall to the dining area to join Helmut and Andrea for Breakfast. It’s a bit of learning experience – the 5 gals that work in the open kitchen are determined to please us – and start by throwing at us all the food they think we might want.

We’re talking Indian Breakfast options like puffed rice that is yesterdays rice – re-fried, cereals, breads the like of which I’ve never seen, two types of juice – Guava and Orange today – Porridge, eggs, jam, honey, coffee, tea, chicken sausages… They basically fill the table and watch what we eat.

Problem – I’m still feeling a bit like I spent too long on a very rough, very curvy road – and despite a decent sleep – eating just isn’t working right now.

But I need to take my Malaria Pills – and experience has shown that doing that on an empty stomach is a recipe for disaster – so I pick thru the bounty trying for bland as possible. I succeed and swallow the pills.

Now it’s time to start our first Safari into the Singalila National Park.

We are currently at about 4000 feet (up from sea level just yesterday), and the Park itself starts at about 7000 feet and extends up to over 9000 feet. This is pretty high Altitude – and I have had Altitude issues in the past – but I know now to take it easy on the first day for fear of Collapsing.

We are assigned our ‘jeeps’ for the 4 days we’ll be doing safari’s here. I’m the only guest in my jeep – there’s also the driver – Schwan – the owner and boss of the team – Roi, and my personal assistant – Mingwa

Apparently it’s been determined that I’m quite fragile – and will need a personal porter. Well, I’m not sending Mingwa home. He’s young (23) and sweet – and is willing to carry my camera. Since I figure I’ll need both hands free to hike into the Bamboo Forests to see the Red Panda – I’m fine with that.

Helmut and Andrea are in a 2nd jeep with a driver and the 2nd in command – Sergio. In a 3rd jeep are a British Couple (he 78 and in pretty decent shape – she’s a bit younger but quite ill. I think this is a bucket trip for them).

We head out – and immediately get stopped – the 100 K Himalayan Challenge Run is happening – and they are going thru our little village! There folks are insane – they are going to RUN (ok – not all run, some will end up stumbling) up 2000 Vertical feet on a road that makes a roller coaster look like a super highway. OMG.

When the police deem it safe, we pull out and head up following the same (and only) road that the runners are using. As we pass each group I cheer and wave – because I remember what if felt like when I did 5 Ks on flat ground… hearing someone cheer for you is deeply motivating and highly personal, even if you don’t know them.

Nothing in all the write-ups I read mentioned the road you must take to get to the area where the Red Panda’s are found.

If you go to MontrealMadame.com – you’ll see a map of this area – we’re driving from Manebhanjyang to the area between Gairibus and Batasi.

On the map it looks so so short – but it’s 1.5 hours of the narrowest, steepest, pot-holed filled road I’ve ever seen.

The drivers are specially trained – and there are only 108 jeeps in Manebhaniyang with about 130 drivers available. Naturally some are better than others – and they all know each other! Most grew up together – so it isn’t a surprise when more often than not our driver will roll down his window and say hi to the driver headed the other way.

The road actually looks pretty good for the first 100 yards maybe.. then you hit the first 170 degree turn – and you realize – wow – this road is really really curvy.

The ‘straight’ parts last about twice as long as the curves – and you literally corkscrew your way up one Mountain and then down and up another one even higher, then down.. repeat and repeat and repeat.

To add interest – along the way is a Tibetan Monastery, several small villages, and 4 military check-points. These are spaced fairly evenly along the road and maned by soldiers who take their job seriously.

We are blest with a clear clear sky – and the views are simply amazing! The sun is at the exactly right angle to allow the layers of Mountain Greenery to glow in different shades of Green and Blue – Culminating in a lovely view of the White Capped “Sleeping Buddha” – the tallest mountain in India. Wow.

Since this is our first trip up the road – our passports are verified and a copy kept for their records, our guide has to verify for us – and the soldiers peek into the jeep to be assured that the folks the guide has said are inside are in fact inside.

The first check-point is the most serious – and all the soldiers are armed and dressed in camouflage from head to toes. Once you’ve completed the check-in – they do smile and wave you on.

Why the security? We are actually driving right along the Napel/India border.

Want to know what happens next? Check out Part 2 of Nov 10.

Nov 9 – What a Travel Day – Kaziranga – Guwdahati – Bagdogra – Singalila – Day 8


I know – I’m jumping ahead – but right now I’m in Singalila – on the Nepal/India border – and what a travel day this has been. I promise I’ll jump back to Kaziranga – but I need to get this day done and dusted.

After last night – check on the Blog for Nov 8 when I get around to writing it – we set our alarms for an early wake-up – 3:45 AM in my case. We have a long, long, long day in front of us.

Alarm goes off – and it is so early – I forget where the cell phone is sitting! So it seems like I’m going to wake everyone before I find the thing and shut it off! (Yup – I woke Helmut and Andrea – as they later tell me… sigh).

Ok – I’m up. I must pack – and of course I’ve strewn stuff everywhere. We have a 4 hour drive first, then a short 35 minutes flight, then another 4 hour drive before we get to our next Homestay – on the border between Nepal and India in the foothills of the Himalayas.

I carefully plan my packing to have my large suitcase full, my carry-on light (I know they will weigh it), and I’ll have to sling my camera bag and backpack over my shoulder. That means my purse with my US Passport, all my credit cards, and my spare reading glasses are going into the Carry-on. I have definitely over-packed – and my shopping yesterday doesn’t help – but I’m confident I’ll smile my way thru.

4:45 – I’m drinking a quick cup of coffee – saying good bye to our charming host and his staff – as I write in their guest book – we arrived as Guests – We left as good friends. Amazingly beautiful Homestay – Wow.

Abi arrives a bit late – but assures us it’s no problem. Our flight to Bagdogra isn’t until 1:15 – We’ll be fine.

They load us into the van – we say final farewells – and we’re off.

At 5:15 the roads are blissfully empty – except of course for the goats and dogs, people walking, Tuk-Tuks, Bikes, scooters, motorcycles, and the occasional car and truck.

Drivers here have nerves of steel and the reflexes of Batman.

Bumpy road out to the paved road, thru the lovely village of the Tea People of Assame – and onto a main paved road that runs parallel to the border of Kaziranga Park.

No Tiger’s make their presence known – but we count at least a dozen Rhinos that have come to the marshland that borders the Park to munch on the lovely fresh greens this morning.

Once past the Western End of the National Park – the road curves gradually through villages and towns. There are sections with construction, there are magnicent Temples (mostly Hindu – but other religions are also represented) – Market after Market – including a cow market and the road gets busier and busier.

We eventually stop for a bathroom break and breakfast. The plan is to visit the ladies/men’s rooms – then grab just a quick coffee before heading back to the bus to eat the breakfast our Homestay packed for us.

But our driver has ordered Puri – and I’ve never seen Puri before. Not like these anyway – they are huge round puff balls of Onion flavoured bread that are crunchy and thin and DELICIOUS. We order that – then Parata (another type of breakfast bread), and then Dosa – the large pancake that looks like a crepe but is crisp and light. Oh Yum.

Breakfast done – we’re off. Back on the road and driving past miles and miles of Assame Tea Plantations.

Finally we are going up the hill – that’s an understatement – it’s a fairly decent sized Mountain actually – that separates the tea plains of Assame from the City of Guwahati – 3 Million people (and at least 4 Million Cows and the same number of goats).

Up, Up, Up the road curves in a car swaying series of sharp 135 degree turns. Our driver handles not only the curves – but the required dodging in and out with nerves of steel.

At the top we get a brief respite – and then we must drive down the other side. Stalls selling Pineapples crowd the edges of the road – with cars haphazardly parked while folks shop. The road continues to snake down in a series of 135 degree turns that remind me of a roller coaster ride I hated years ago.

Eventually – we are in Guwahati – and now must brave the construction, trucks, goats, people, scooters… etc… of this very large city. An hour later we are safely at the airport – my palms sweaty from gripping the metal bar that separates me from the Passenger Seat.

This should be the easy part. Just get out of our van, get into the airport, get on the plane, get to Bagdogra. And from there a quick 4 hour ride to Singalila – home to Red Pandas – the purpose of this part of our adventure.

But first I check my messages – My grand-daughter Sophie was in a competition called D-Voice – and of the 25 participants – she’s made the top 3 finalists and is going on to an inter-collegiate competition with the top 3 singers from 5 other Schools! I’m so proud of her.

Back to getting into the airport. There’s a military gun truck stationed in the roadway – desert camouflage with a guy in the turret aiming a machine gun at us! OMG. We walk past – he’s not being friendly – and enter the airport.

Our passports, Visas, and tickets are scanned by another solider – and we’re allowed in.

Now the luggage that will go inside the plane is run thru a scanner and then zip-tied shut. No touching them again. In the rush – not only is my green large suitcase taken – but so is my burgundy carry-on. My comments are ignored – my carry-on is now zip-tied shut – and it contains my purse! I have my Canadian passport but I have no credit cards and only 50 rupees in my pocket.

Abi pushes us (we’re apparently later than he’d like) around the airport – finds the check-in counter – and they want to weigh everything. We’re only allowed 7 kg of carry-on – but fortunately all the camera gear doesn’t count.

For security – Abi tells us – no food, no water – so we dump our precious water – and Helmut and Andrea down a small water bottle filled with rum that they have been carrying for a night cap. Since it’s full – I’m guessing there were no night caps… but hey. I dump my precious water. We left the sandwiches packed by the HomeStay in the van for the driver – another mistake it turns out.

My suitcase plus my carry-on do not pass muster. I have to pay over-weight or over count – or over something – and it’s 14,000 rupees – that’s almost $200. With my credit cards out of reach inside my zip-tied closed bag – Abi has to cover that expense for me. I’m going to owe him plenty when this is done.

But I’m not going to argue now. My suitcase and my carry-on (with my credit cards) disappears into the luggage conveyor- and we head for security.

Completely different rules from what we were told to expect. Has Abi never done this before? Did the rules change in the last year – who knows. Food and drink are no problem!

We quickly get to the security check-point – and I am forced to go to a different section – leaving Abi and Helmut and Andrea. I make sure that Abi has seen that I’ve been singled out – and he smiles and waves – it’s ok.

Turns out that there is a security line for women only. The men have a choice of at least 6 lines – we have just one. Andrea quickly joins me. I’m so relieved.

It’s now that we discover that while liquids are just fine – replicas of endangered species are NOT. Andrea’s fake tiger paw – which she’s been carrying around from trip to trip for years – is confiscated.

And then we find out why there’s women’s only line. We must individually go into a curtained private booth for a body search. They don’t touch us (thank goodness) – but they wand us looking for metal. The zippers in my safari pants are found and quickly ignored.

I’m out – Andrea’s out without her fake tiger paw – and with the remains of the Rum and a sandwich from the Homestay she’s forgotten to throw away.

Sheesh.

We re-gather at our gate – wait to board our flight – and I quickly realize why it’s a good thing that they took my carry-on. This plane is just about the smallest one I’ve seen for years. And that’s counting the seaplane in St. Croix. There’s no room for even the smallest carry-on – I’m lucky my camera bag fits in the overhead.

The Flight (although about an hour late leaving) is fast and painless. I have been assigned a window seat – and the view is stunning. There’s a river that runs below us – glistening in the noon sun.

We land at Bagdogra – and quickly de-plane and grab our luggage. Thank goodness both of mine are safely back in my hands. I’m so happy to see my carry-on – with not only my credit cards – but with my US Passport!

This time we have two drivers. And Two cars. The smaller car is filled with our luggage – the larger one will be carrying us for the four hour drive to the Nepal border.

After about 30 minutes of lovely scenery filled with more tea plantations and ladies gathering the tea leaves by hand, filling baskets and transferring their precious burdens into trucks (or bicycles) for transport to the processing plant – we enter the beginnings of the Himalayas.

I’m not prepared.

I’m sitting in the middle of the back seat of the car – no seat belt – no actual seat – and the road quickly becomes a one and a half lane – but two way road – up and up and up. Curve after curve after curve. If there is traffic in the other direction – and there’s LOTS of traffic in the other direction – we must squeeze left – and they must squeeze right to get past.

If I thought the drive to the airport in Guwahati was scary – it was nothing compared to this.

I’m either gasping for breath or grabbing the left or right head rest to keep from slamming into either Andrea or Abi.

Our driver literally has nerves of steel – he doesn’t slow down for anything! We swerve into the lane on the right to pass car after car after truck – then quickly swerve back into our lane in the face of on-coming traffic. Meanwhile we’re climbing about 2000 meters into the Mountains.

Amazingly – there are actually villages – even small towns – occasionally squeezed on ether side of the road. When we get to a town, not only are we dodging the other traffic – there are parked cars to swerve around, people crossing the road – and after it becomes dark – neon everywhere!

My stomach was never meant to experience this kind of driving.

Abi realizes I’m getting just a touch upset – and offers to switch places with me. He takes the middle seat and I try to fasten the seat belt on the passenger seat. Won’t work.

So now I’m squeezed between the door and Abi – while we continue our upward swerving climb. At least on our side of the road is the Mountain – not the jaw dropping plunge into nothing that is on the right side.

I keep thinking – in 5 days – I have to repeat this trip – alone. On the other side of the road. I wish I’d stayed in nice safe comfy Kaziranga.

I keep asking – how much longer. And it’s never just 10 minutes. The time is endless – and my stomach is getting more and more agitated.

Finally – Finally – we enter the last of the little villages – which is having a cultural festival. There are folks sitting in folding seats on the right edge of the road – and performers – including clearly the Mayor of the Town on the left.

They separate long enough to motion us down a rutted dirt path – aka nearly vertical ‘road’ down towards our Homestay.

A few more swerves and curves and we’re in another village center. This time, our drivers get out to find the driver of a truck that is parked blocking the entrance to the ‘road?’ To our Homestay. He moves – we drive down – and end up at a prison block.

Metal walls in front and on the sides. Buildings in varying states of decay and construction – none of which look habitable.

Even Helmut and Andrea – who are truly seasoned travellers – are alarmed. Abi has told us that while he’s stayed at Singalila before – he’s never stayed in this Homestay. I’m thinking – it’s a scam. There is no Homestay – we’re sleeping in the car. Helmut must be tuned to my brain because he says – well – we can always sleep in the car.

Oh dear.

Then the car doors open – and a young man with a smiling face greets us and gestures to the one door that actually looks like a door. We enter the Homestay to discover we’re on the ground floor – and our rooms are on the 2nd floor. We climb up and are shown our rooms.

I’m in the Sapphire Room – a Queen bed, my own toilet – and a Balcony! Helmut and Andrea are across the hall with a king bed – and Abi is at the end of the hall. Up one more flight is the common area – very lovely if a bit on the cold (temperature) side – and there sit two folks from England near Cambridge. They arrived this morning – and have already seen a Red Panda.

Our hosts give us each a cup of tea (I drink hot water, Helmut gets coffee), and we’re told that dinner is served at 7:00.

There’s great internet – there’s lot of space – the folks seem nice – but my stomach is not interested. It is still thinking about the drive up the Mountain – and trust me – I’m fairly sure I can not eat anything.

We set-up our rooms – then re-group for dinner. They have set each group – us, the couple from England, and the drivers, at separate tables – which is a shame – I was really hoping to chat with the folks from England.

They serve a multi-course meal of Indian Specialities from the region – but I can’t put anything into my stomach. I just want to curl up in my nice warm bed. And why is my bed warm? They have electric Mattress heaters!

Finally dinner is over and I can escape back to my room. Never has any space looked so lovely.

Despite the dogs barking – that will go on all night – my bed is warm, it’s a bit on the firm side – which I like – and I’m done.

Signing off to face another day in surprising, amazing, lovely once you get past the driving, India.

I’m so glad I came.

The Soup Lady