Category Archives: Kaziranga

Nov 8 – Last chance for Tigers – and I go shopping!


Again it’s Yoga, quick breakfast, and we’re off. Today we’re going to hit the West side of the Kaziranga Park. It’s not ‘known’ for seeing the tigers – but the crowding has just beaten us down!

It’s a bit of a longer drive – so we start a bit earlier – and still get to the park at opening bell. Good news – it’s so early the Ranger’s aren’t even ready!

So at least we’re going to be doing this at the earliest possible time, and while it’s unlikely we’ll see Tigers, we’re betting that at least the bird and other animal population will put on a good photographic effort.

Good news and Bad news – we were right on both accounts.

No Tigers (that’s the bad news) – a video of an Amazing Rhino Mate-ing session (the male lost this round) – and lots of close-up encounters with birds and Rhinos, Wild Pigs and Buffalo – and lots of Photo stops. It’s a far easier to focus on the pictures you are taking when there are no other jeeps buzzing past you – or worse sitting behind you looking disappointed.

It’s fun, it’s beautiful – and yes – I’m disappointed that we managed not to see any Tigers.

We did stop at a look-out tower that offered three interesting things:

  1. A toilet. No it didn’t flush, and no there was no place to sit, and yes I provided my own toilet paper – but it had a door that closed and locked (double success) and all my squat work-outs with Mona have strengthened my legs so – well – I could do what needed to be to be done.
  2. A sign showing all the Flood Levels over the years – as measured at this particular tower. Wow – these guys get seriously flooded. Big years (like over my head!) were 1988, 2017, 2019, 2024, and 1998. That means the water not only went over its banks – but it went over the footings of the tower, and reached over 5’ up the posts supporting the first floor. And that happened just this summer for the 5th time since 2014 when the tower was built. My photo is on the blog if you go to http://www.MontrealMadame.com
  3. Another sign gave the Animal Census result as of 2022

Animal Census Results:

  1. Greater One Horned Rhinoceros: 2613
  2. Royal Bengal Tiger: 104
  3. Asiatic Wild Buffalo: 2565
  4. Asiatic Elephants: 1200+ (2024)
  5. Eastern Swamp Deer: 1129
  6. Important Bird #’s: 553 Species including 25 Globally Important Species

Photo’s taken and bathroom break finished, we are leaving the park when Abi suddenly says to our driver – turn right then back up NOW! He’s speaking Hindi – but it’s impossible not to miss his meaning.

The driver is surprised – but after some reinforcement – does what Abi says. We end up on the left side of the road – back to the park, front to the entrance – looking toward the Park. Perfect lighting!

There’s a Male Rhino on one side of the road, a Female Rhino on the other side – who is going ‘Huff, Huff, Huff’. And about 8 Jeeps parked on the sides – just waiting.

We get our cameras ready- and I actually decide to try to use my iphone to film this. Abi says – they are either going to fight or mate – just watch.

So we watch.

After a few minutes of pawing the ground – the Male (on my left – other side of the road) – starts moving up and across and then down the other side. Not munching speed – but a lot lot fast. I think that’s a Rhino fast walk.

He goes nose to nose to the clearly in Heat Female – and they exchange Huffs getting louder and louder. Then she charges! OMG – she’s going to butt him!

He spins around (I didn’t know Rhinos could do that) – and starts running – these may the large animals – but they are FAST!

The Female is in hot pursuit – and they both hit the pond just below us with a gigantic splash. Our driver – who is rather new at this – gets scared and puts his foot on the gas – we scream STOP!!! We’re Filming!!!!

The Rhinos complete the dash across the pond – then the Male finally gets clear – or the Female thinks she’s made her point… They calmly – like nothing happened – get back into their original positions – the Male on one side of the road – the female on the other – and they calmly put their noses down and start munching.

Excitement over team – you all can go now.

Whew!

Since time is almost up (we must be out of the park by noon) we head to the exit, stop for a bit of T-shirt shopping, and then head for Lunch.

After that excitement – you’d think lunch could only be a let down – but you’d be WRONG!

Abi knew a gal who is running a cooperative looming group for women of the area. She had spinning wheel, 3 full size looms – a full manual, a more Automated (there are strings to pull the shuttles, you don’t pass it by hand, and a Jacquard Loom. She explains that there are a team of women who come and spend time making cloth for Saris and finished placemats for sale. In addition, she’s been working on getting women committed to getting an education, and involved in a lot of other community projects. I’m impressed.

They bring us into their ‘back space’ – aka restaurant – and serve us a lovely vegetarian lunch. We start the meal with prayers, and end the meal with prayers. It’s all very calm and wonderful.

Yes – I bought some cloth… How could I not, right? But since I had no money (long silly credit card story) – Abi covers my debt. I’ll pay him back later. Meanwhile my big suitcase is suddenly a lot heavier…

We leave, wander back to our lovely HomeStay – and take a bit of a rest before an early dinner. Tonight our host has invited (for the first time ever) a group of 10 Tea People dancers who will be performing for us.

The host and I walk the space where the dancers will be performing – and to no ones surprise, I make some suggestions about the lighting. He has bought lanterns to put in around the dancing space – but I suggest that instead we line-up the lanterns in front and then block the light going into the eyes of the audience. He listens to my suggestions – and to my completely surprise – has his team make the changes.

Now we can actually see the performers faces! And the change has brought the audience much closer! You can thank me later…

The music is wonderful – drums and singing by the male dancers – while the women do their dancing in circles and in lines in front of the guys. Can anyone say – mating ritual?

They invite Andrea and I into the circle – and she says – come on – let’s go. Never one to miss a chance to party – I join the group. With any luck at all the videos will never get off of Helmut’s cell phone! I just hope they don’t go viral.

Then it’s time to thank the dancers for their efforts – comment on the beauty of their dancing – and head upstairs to bed.

No surprise – but tomorrow is another early day. We have an 8 hour drive ahead of us.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 7 – Kaziranga National Park – Day 6


Sunrise – Yoga – Quick Coffee and cake – and we’re off.

Today we are going to hit the Central Entrance twice – morning and afternoon. So Lunch is going to be in the major tourist area around the entrance.

True to plan – we arrive at the opening bell and enter the park as the 2nd jeep. Cool.

And immediately run into the daily Elephant Ride! There is a ride at 5:00 AM, and a second at 6:30 – and the 6:30 one ends at 8:00 – so as we enter the park – they are just leaving!

Of course these are domestic Elephants – with slightly pink ears. Each Elephant has a driver with a long stick to provide the Elephant with directions – and on their back is a platform that holds 4 people – 2 to a side. They have ‘seat belts’, and even so seem to be leaning downwards. I guess they know what they are doing.

All I can say is you couldn’t catch me on one of these! First – there are probably 60 Elephants walking past us – so for most the front and back view is the Butt of one Elephant and the Head of another. And if you are sitting on one side – that’s your view. No way to turn around in your seat. And here’s the worst part – the Elephant bumps and sways – no way you are getting a decent picture.

But hey – they got to see us!

We prowl the park trying to find a tiger. We do spot some monkeys, plenty of one-horned Rhinos and some deer – but tiger’s are on holiday! Abi even tries having the driver stop to car and just stand still at a known tiger crossing – but no matter how long we wait – there’s no tiger showing up.

We do see a large reptile in his home in a tree trunk, and watch an eagle take off, catch a snake on the ground and then gracefully fly back to his perch to spot another tasty morsel. This is rather cool.

But no dice on the Tiger.

For Lunch we go to one of the nicest hotels/restaurants near the Central Entrance – the Igore. Delicious.

Back to the Park Entrance – more tourists, more noise, more cars – and no Tigers.

Bummer. 4 Safari’s done – and no tiger.. Just one left to go.

We make it back to the Park Entrance right at 5:00 – and they nicely don’t give Abi a warning. Whew.

On the way back to our place – we again drive thru the villages of the tea people – and realize they are having a celebration.

They have set up a tent made of bamboo poles by the river – and women and girls have gathered by the river. The men are sitting in chairs in the tent – and there’s music and singing. I will always stop for festivals – particularly ones that seem religious and this one looks perfect.

Abi directs the driver to park the car, and we hop out. We admire from afar – but then one of the men chats a bit with Abi – and we’re invited down to see what is going on – and are welcome to take pictures.

Cool!

The festival is in celebration of the Water Goddess – and Sunrise. They celebrate by carrying baskets of food down to the river, spend the night singing and praying and fasting, and then at dawn – go for a swim in the river and break their fast.

We are invited to sit with them to sing along – and then someone works up the nerve to ask if we’ll pose for a picture with them. That opens the flood gates – soon everyone wants a picture – from little 3-5 year olds to grannies and grandpas. We are the hit of the day!

As we are leaving – a group of young teen boys – who have been holding back and trying to look too mature for this – approach me for a hand-shake. I shake each and every one of their hands – wishing them health and Happiness.

Oh was this fun!

When we get back to the HomeStay – our host reports that one of the villagers had figured out we were staying with him – and had called him to let him know we’d be late for dinner because we were at the festival. This is a very small world.

I’m so glad we stopped – I had so much fun!

Great dinner – early ish to bed – tomorrow is another early day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 6 – Kaziranga National Park – Day 5


Tigers, Rhinos, Elephants and Buffalo – Oh My!

Our day starts early – glorious sunrise, lovely weather, a quick cup of coffee and some homemade cake to get our engines going! Today is our first day at Kaziranga National Park.

We climb aboard Abi’s lovely and extremely comfortable car and head out to the Park. We starting with the East Entrance – and since the roads are still cut off from the recent flooding (happens every year) – each entrance is a one road Round Trip. That’s quite different from Manas – which did have one main road – but dozens of side roads allowed us to dodge crowds. This won’t happen at Kaziranga – so our only defence are early starts and late finishes..

Unlike Manas – which has a relaxed approach to leaving the Park on time – Kaziranga is so busy that it has strict rules. And guides and drivers found guilty of breaking the timing rules face huge fines – and a week’s banishment from the park! Given that we left Mangas after 5:00 every night – I’m concerned that we will run afoul of the rules here. The Park also closes from noon to 2 – to give the animals a chance to rest I think.

Ok – early start – we want to hit the gate at opening time – 7:30.

From our HomeStay to the Park East Entrance is a short 15 minute ride – but we wind our way thru several Tea People of Assme villages. The Tea People originally came to this part of India 150 years ago to work the tea fields – and they stayed. Just recently – they have actually been recognized as a unique community within Assme.

And they are unique. They have a unique way of dancing, several unique festivals – particularly ones that celebrate water – and their homes are also unique. They live on flood plains – every year they will be flooded.

This isn’t just a bad thing – the yearly floods leave slit that fertilizes their fields – and in addition to picking tea (mostly women) – they grow Rice – lots of Rice. And they are proud of their homes and their status as a unique community.

Our host is particularly concerned with introducing his guests to the villagers around him – his home is the hunting lodge of his grand-father, and most of the people he employs are members of the Tea People. He explained to us that this is on purpose – education isn’t a huge priority – and that means adults find it challenging to get jobs outside of low level agriculture. He is offering on the job training in Hospitality – not to mention living wage salaries.

I love our drive thru the waking up villages – women are sweeping the front drives, doing laundry the old fashioned way – as I can see from the clothes lines – and the men are working in the Rice Fields, setting up huge fishing nets that get filled as the tide goes in or working on their homes. It’s a busy place – but everyone is pleased to smile and wave as we drive by.

Soon enough we are at the East Entrance – and we switch from Abi’s car to a 4×4 jeep. Like the jeeps in Manas – there is a row for the driver and the armed security guard (these are wild animals), then two rows for guests. Abi and I share the middle road, Helmut and Andrea are in the back.

We are the only jeep we see! Perfect. We slowly bump our way into the park – immediately finding ourselves face to face with several Indian Buffalo – huge animals that sport horns that are at least 5 feet wide from tip to tip. Glorious photo opportunities abound and I’m very happy.

The animals are close enough to us that I have no issues with focus – and are calm enough to pose for picture after picture.

Abi stops the driver at a pile of brown – well – shit. It’s Rhino scat – recognizable by its ground up look and lighter color than Elephant dung. It turns out that Rhinos like to have bathroom spots – and they will return to that spot as often as they can.

Abi explains that this used to make it easier for the poachers – all they had to do was find a dung pile and hang around. Now the Indian Government and the Animal Agencies have drastically reduced the amount of poaching – so the Rhinos can go to the bathroom in peace. I definitely share that pain…

We also see Sus scrofa or Wild Pigs. These only faintly resemble pigs from North America. These pigs have long noses, oblong bodies, short legs – and no snout. We see at least one family – Mom, Dad, and a few younger ones – checking out the grasses right in front of a pair of grazing Buffalo. Lovely.

Carefully placed and well maintained towers afford higher view points over the marsh lands that border the park between India and Butan. We spot herds of deer grazing – and as expected – Abi is happy to point out bird after bird. My camera is only able to get out of focus shots of the birds – but it is fun to know you’ve seen them.

I do get a decent shot of a Roller – that’s a small but magnificent bird that has bright blue wings that shine when it flies!

The Rhinos of India have only one horn – hence the marketing slogan – One Horn Nation. And Kaziranga has over 1000 Rhinos. Here at the Eastern Entrance the Rhinos are relaxed, easy to spot and fun to photograph. I’m loving it.

We don’t manage a close up encounter like we had at Manas – but there are still lots of Rhino photos to take! Such fun.

There’s the ruins of a wooden bridge we must drive around – and I love my photo looking thru the remaining wooden structure to the water and wilderness beyond. The lighting is definitely with us this morning.

The Tiger and Jaguar Gods however – are not. We don’t spot a Tiger – or even hear birds and deer calling out their ‘Tiger Alarm’ calls. Oh well – we have 4 more Safari’s here – lots of chances.

Towards the end of our drive – I spot a Dragon in the water! It’s actually a log – but it really looks exactly like a dragon in the water – complete with fire coming out of its mouth. It makes for a Great photo!

We also run into a gal from Mumbai who is on her own, touring with just a driver. She’s clearly a birder judging by her camera, and her set-up. The middle seat of her jeep has been removed, and there’s a mattress and several bean bags arranged for long waits for just the right bird to appear. We exchange hellos – and continue on our ways.

It’s getting on to noon – and we must exit the park. So we drive out – back thru the villages and to our lovely HomeStay. The first of several Great meals and head off for our afternoon adventure.

This time we’re going to hit the Central Entrance to Kaziranga National Park – and we’ve been warned by other folks – as well as by our host and by Abi – that it is going to be a lot more crowded.

It’s about a 30 minute drive to the Central Entrance – thru the animal crossing zones – so the ride is bumpy! Not as bad as inside the park where I promise you – I feel like I’m on a 1970’s weight loss machine -but bad enough.

We arrive at the entrance to discover a huge line-up of jeeps filled with tourists – mostly Indian’s – not ‘foreigners’ like us – waiting for the gates to open.

I’m going to guess that there were probably about 100 jeeps waiting at 2:00 – and another couple hundred or so drove in later. Groups of giggling school kids on day trips to the National Park, family groups packed 5 and 6 into a jeep that comfortably sits just 4 with at least one screaming kid, and a much smaller sub-set of serious folks with serious drivers.

It’s a mad-house – and it’s not going to be better inside the park because there is just one main road with only two short spur roads. If you stop to catch a shot you can expect at least 4 jeeps to try to squeeze by. And if you don’t leave passing room – and they must wait behind you – they will leave their engines running. On the wooden bridges that abound this makes for enough vibration to be sure to ruin most shots.

But this is the best place to see Tigers. We are going to have to make the best of it.

But despite Abi’s best efforts – again we are Tiger disappointed. And with so much noise – the animals seem more timid – and tend to stay further away from the road.

Tomorrow is another day.

So it’s home (sleeping policeman yet again), a great dinner, lovely conversation with our host who takes us on a tour of ‘The Big House” – and then it’s bed time.

Signing off with hopes of tiger sightings tomorrow…

The Soup Lady

Nov 5 – Travel Day – Manas to Kaziranga National Park – India on Safari – Day 4


We leave Musa Jungle Retreat near the Manas National Park and start our 8 hour drive across the Assme Province of India.

Helmut checks the distance – and it’s not really that far – but I’m guessing the 8 hour estimate is based on time spent dodging Goats, Cows, Cars, Trucks, Scooters, and all the other obstacles that make driving on the left in India such an adventure!

And one I am NOT signing up for! I don’t mind driving on the left – but I really seriously don’t want to try using my left hand to switch gears. That just sounds like an accident waiting for somewhere to happen.

Some interesting things I’ve learned about driving is Assme. 1 – you must honk your horn when passing trucks, even small ones. It’s a safety concern – both for you and the truck! (Well – that explains why folks call India noisy). 2 – Officially trucks are not allowed on the roads between 8:00 AM and 5:00 PM. This is an interesting rule if you think about it – but it makes sense if you are trying to control traffic congestion. Unfortunately – even here in Assme – lots of truck drivers either don’t know the rules – or ignore them. Good idea though, right?

Our mini-bus for 15 picks us up – we’re 5 including Abi (our guide) and the driver. Lots of space to spread out – and plenty of room for luggage.

The trip starts with us back-tracking – we leave the area near the Manas National Park and drive back to Guwahati. But this time we bypass the area near the airport – and instead head straight for the almost vertical Mountains that surround Guwahati to the East.

The ‘highway’ winds it way up the first of two mountains – past stalls selling Pineapples – tons and tons of Pineapples. Apparently this region is famous for its Pineapples – and it’s Coconuts. Abi gets the driver to pull over – and for about 60 cents he buys us two fresh pineapples. Our plan is to hand them to our next host – and ask for a repeat of our favorite dinner at Musa Jungle Retreat – Smoked Chicken and Pineapple!

We carefully pull back on the ‘highway’. Silly me – I thought highways were limited access… not here in India they aren’t – at least not the older ones. Stalls line the edges – which means you are swerving around cars pulling back on the road after shopping – and the distraction of the stalls themselves. Chalk that up to Surprising India!

We have a quick lunch break – nothing to write home about – and then take a detour to do a water Safari! Yup – that’s right – we’re going boating – to see Dolphins.

These are fresh water Dolphins – with remarkably long noses. But we quickly discover that they don’t jump out of the water. This makes picture taking almost impossible. Sure they poke their heads out from time to time – but each ‘peek’ is only a couple of seconds – not enough time to get your camera rotated and focuses.

Oh well – it was great being on the water – The sunset images were stunning and it broke up the long long drive.

Back in the bus – we head further East to our first HomeStay – Kathoni HomeStay near Kaziranga National Park.

Kaziranga is known for it’s Rhino population, It’s Begal Tiger Population, it’s Elephant populaton and it’s numerous birds. We’re here to spot all the larger animals – and given Abi’s love of birds – I’m betting I’ll be spotting birds as well.

This long and thin National Park has three entrances – one West, one East and one Central. Our HomeStay is located just a bit outside the East Entrance – so we must drive the entire length of the Park to get there.

Nothing is done to keep animals inside the Parks in India – or at least not the ones we’ve visited so far – instead the emphasis is on keeping Poachers out – and counting the cars going in and out.

In recent years India has made huge headway in stopping Poachers – even stoping folks from flying with fake replicas for endangered Animals. As annoying as that was for Andrea (foreshadowing here – she’s going to lose a fake tiger claw), it does make sense. When even replicas are banned – you know they are going to get seriously tough on actually body parts.

So – why am I bringing this up now? Because Kaziranga has no borders – animals are free to roam in and out of the park at will – and to try to keep the crossings clear for the animals – they have restricted speeds. They also have ‘traffic calming’ sections – what we’d call sleeping policemen. Some are just rumble strips – some will break an axel.

Our already slow pace slows down even further. What would be a quick 45 minute drive at home – is stretched to 2 hours.

Finally we arrive at our Kathoni HomeStay – after a short drive on a very very bumpy road. It is truly stunning.

The owner lives in the ‘big house’, our palace is a custom built 2 floor – 2 bedroom lodging – each bedroom has a king bed and a glorious en-suite bathroom – with teak floor in the shower and a huge shaded window that lets in light. There’s even a balcony for each room – with lovely Teak Furniture.

There’s a small fridge – and enough ‘munchies’ to keep even me happy. And they not only supply single use plastic bottles of water – they have glass pitchers with clean water as well. And the fridge is stocked with non-alcoholic drinks of all kinds – mostly heading towards fruits.

The first floor is completely open on all 4 sides – and shelters two custom built Bamboo tables each sitting 4, and a large serving bar that hides power strips, storage space, and behind that a sink for quick wash-ups. There are chairs around a fire pit to one side – and protected parking with a private gate as well.

My room – exactly like the one that Helmut and Andrea are sharing – features lots of storage space, lots of hanging space, a lovely work space and two chairs for relaxing and admiring the stunning view.

I’m definitely home.

We quickly clean up and come downstairs to enjoy our first dinner. The chef and his 3 helpers have done a wonderful job of preparing Indian Cusine for us to enjoy. I’m happy with a simple selection of a bit of rice and some Chicken. Helmut and Andrea are keen to try everything! They even serve us Crème Caramel for dessert.

We have our own butler – who seems unbothered by the crazy hours we’ll be attempting to dine (Safari’s tend to start early, eat breakfast after the first safari, then a bit of a rest – lunch – then an afternoon safari – then dinner. And he’s there for all those times – plus he greets us when we return from the Safari’s with home made lime drinks. I feel like royalty!

Dinner done – we head up stairs to shower off the dust of our travel – and to get to bed. No surprise – it’s an early morning – again!

Signing off – The Soup Lady