Category Archives: General Mutterings

Nov 7 – Kaziranga National Park – Day 6


Sunrise – Yoga – Quick Coffee and cake – and we’re off.

Today we are going to hit the Central Entrance twice – morning and afternoon. So Lunch is going to be in the major tourist area around the entrance.

True to plan – we arrive at the opening bell and enter the park as the 2nd jeep. Cool.

And immediately run into the daily Elephant Ride! There is a ride at 5:00 AM, and a second at 6:30 – and the 6:30 one ends at 8:00 – so as we enter the park – they are just leaving!

Of course these are domestic Elephants – with slightly pink ears. Each Elephant has a driver with a long stick to provide the Elephant with directions – and on their back is a platform that holds 4 people – 2 to a side. They have ‘seat belts’, and even so seem to be leaning downwards. I guess they know what they are doing.

All I can say is you couldn’t catch me on one of these! First – there are probably 60 Elephants walking past us – so for most the front and back view is the Butt of one Elephant and the Head of another. And if you are sitting on one side – that’s your view. No way to turn around in your seat. And here’s the worst part – the Elephant bumps and sways – no way you are getting a decent picture.

But hey – they got to see us!

We prowl the park trying to find a tiger. We do spot some monkeys, plenty of one-horned Rhinos and some deer – but tiger’s are on holiday! Abi even tries having the driver stop to car and just stand still at a known tiger crossing – but no matter how long we wait – there’s no tiger showing up.

We do see a large reptile in his home in a tree trunk, and watch an eagle take off, catch a snake on the ground and then gracefully fly back to his perch to spot another tasty morsel. This is rather cool.

But no dice on the Tiger.

For Lunch we go to one of the nicest hotels/restaurants near the Central Entrance – the Igore. Delicious.

Back to the Park Entrance – more tourists, more noise, more cars – and no Tigers.

Bummer. 4 Safari’s done – and no tiger.. Just one left to go.

We make it back to the Park Entrance right at 5:00 – and they nicely don’t give Abi a warning. Whew.

On the way back to our place – we again drive thru the villages of the tea people – and realize they are having a celebration.

They have set up a tent made of bamboo poles by the river – and women and girls have gathered by the river. The men are sitting in chairs in the tent – and there’s music and singing. I will always stop for festivals – particularly ones that seem religious and this one looks perfect.

Abi directs the driver to park the car, and we hop out. We admire from afar – but then one of the men chats a bit with Abi – and we’re invited down to see what is going on – and are welcome to take pictures.

Cool!

The festival is in celebration of the Water Goddess – and Sunrise. They celebrate by carrying baskets of food down to the river, spend the night singing and praying and fasting, and then at dawn – go for a swim in the river and break their fast.

We are invited to sit with them to sing along – and then someone works up the nerve to ask if we’ll pose for a picture with them. That opens the flood gates – soon everyone wants a picture – from little 3-5 year olds to grannies and grandpas. We are the hit of the day!

As we are leaving – a group of young teen boys – who have been holding back and trying to look too mature for this – approach me for a hand-shake. I shake each and every one of their hands – wishing them health and Happiness.

Oh was this fun!

When we get back to the HomeStay – our host reports that one of the villagers had figured out we were staying with him – and had called him to let him know we’d be late for dinner because we were at the festival. This is a very small world.

I’m so glad we stopped – I had so much fun!

Great dinner – early ish to bed – tomorrow is another early day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 6 – Kaziranga National Park – Day 5


Tigers, Rhinos, Elephants and Buffalo – Oh My!

Our day starts early – glorious sunrise, lovely weather, a quick cup of coffee and some homemade cake to get our engines going! Today is our first day at Kaziranga National Park.

We climb aboard Abi’s lovely and extremely comfortable car and head out to the Park. We starting with the East Entrance – and since the roads are still cut off from the recent flooding (happens every year) – each entrance is a one road Round Trip. That’s quite different from Manas – which did have one main road – but dozens of side roads allowed us to dodge crowds. This won’t happen at Kaziranga – so our only defence are early starts and late finishes..

Unlike Manas – which has a relaxed approach to leaving the Park on time – Kaziranga is so busy that it has strict rules. And guides and drivers found guilty of breaking the timing rules face huge fines – and a week’s banishment from the park! Given that we left Mangas after 5:00 every night – I’m concerned that we will run afoul of the rules here. The Park also closes from noon to 2 – to give the animals a chance to rest I think.

Ok – early start – we want to hit the gate at opening time – 7:30.

From our HomeStay to the Park East Entrance is a short 15 minute ride – but we wind our way thru several Tea People of Assme villages. The Tea People originally came to this part of India 150 years ago to work the tea fields – and they stayed. Just recently – they have actually been recognized as a unique community within Assme.

And they are unique. They have a unique way of dancing, several unique festivals – particularly ones that celebrate water – and their homes are also unique. They live on flood plains – every year they will be flooded.

This isn’t just a bad thing – the yearly floods leave slit that fertilizes their fields – and in addition to picking tea (mostly women) – they grow Rice – lots of Rice. And they are proud of their homes and their status as a unique community.

Our host is particularly concerned with introducing his guests to the villagers around him – his home is the hunting lodge of his grand-father, and most of the people he employs are members of the Tea People. He explained to us that this is on purpose – education isn’t a huge priority – and that means adults find it challenging to get jobs outside of low level agriculture. He is offering on the job training in Hospitality – not to mention living wage salaries.

I love our drive thru the waking up villages – women are sweeping the front drives, doing laundry the old fashioned way – as I can see from the clothes lines – and the men are working in the Rice Fields, setting up huge fishing nets that get filled as the tide goes in or working on their homes. It’s a busy place – but everyone is pleased to smile and wave as we drive by.

Soon enough we are at the East Entrance – and we switch from Abi’s car to a 4×4 jeep. Like the jeeps in Manas – there is a row for the driver and the armed security guard (these are wild animals), then two rows for guests. Abi and I share the middle road, Helmut and Andrea are in the back.

We are the only jeep we see! Perfect. We slowly bump our way into the park – immediately finding ourselves face to face with several Indian Buffalo – huge animals that sport horns that are at least 5 feet wide from tip to tip. Glorious photo opportunities abound and I’m very happy.

The animals are close enough to us that I have no issues with focus – and are calm enough to pose for picture after picture.

Abi stops the driver at a pile of brown – well – shit. It’s Rhino scat – recognizable by its ground up look and lighter color than Elephant dung. It turns out that Rhinos like to have bathroom spots – and they will return to that spot as often as they can.

Abi explains that this used to make it easier for the poachers – all they had to do was find a dung pile and hang around. Now the Indian Government and the Animal Agencies have drastically reduced the amount of poaching – so the Rhinos can go to the bathroom in peace. I definitely share that pain…

We also see Sus scrofa or Wild Pigs. These only faintly resemble pigs from North America. These pigs have long noses, oblong bodies, short legs – and no snout. We see at least one family – Mom, Dad, and a few younger ones – checking out the grasses right in front of a pair of grazing Buffalo. Lovely.

Carefully placed and well maintained towers afford higher view points over the marsh lands that border the park between India and Butan. We spot herds of deer grazing – and as expected – Abi is happy to point out bird after bird. My camera is only able to get out of focus shots of the birds – but it is fun to know you’ve seen them.

I do get a decent shot of a Roller – that’s a small but magnificent bird that has bright blue wings that shine when it flies!

The Rhinos of India have only one horn – hence the marketing slogan – One Horn Nation. And Kaziranga has over 1000 Rhinos. Here at the Eastern Entrance the Rhinos are relaxed, easy to spot and fun to photograph. I’m loving it.

We don’t manage a close up encounter like we had at Manas – but there are still lots of Rhino photos to take! Such fun.

There’s the ruins of a wooden bridge we must drive around – and I love my photo looking thru the remaining wooden structure to the water and wilderness beyond. The lighting is definitely with us this morning.

The Tiger and Jaguar Gods however – are not. We don’t spot a Tiger – or even hear birds and deer calling out their ‘Tiger Alarm’ calls. Oh well – we have 4 more Safari’s here – lots of chances.

Towards the end of our drive – I spot a Dragon in the water! It’s actually a log – but it really looks exactly like a dragon in the water – complete with fire coming out of its mouth. It makes for a Great photo!

We also run into a gal from Mumbai who is on her own, touring with just a driver. She’s clearly a birder judging by her camera, and her set-up. The middle seat of her jeep has been removed, and there’s a mattress and several bean bags arranged for long waits for just the right bird to appear. We exchange hellos – and continue on our ways.

It’s getting on to noon – and we must exit the park. So we drive out – back thru the villages and to our lovely HomeStay. The first of several Great meals and head off for our afternoon adventure.

This time we’re going to hit the Central Entrance to Kaziranga National Park – and we’ve been warned by other folks – as well as by our host and by Abi – that it is going to be a lot more crowded.

It’s about a 30 minute drive to the Central Entrance – thru the animal crossing zones – so the ride is bumpy! Not as bad as inside the park where I promise you – I feel like I’m on a 1970’s weight loss machine -but bad enough.

We arrive at the entrance to discover a huge line-up of jeeps filled with tourists – mostly Indian’s – not ‘foreigners’ like us – waiting for the gates to open.

I’m going to guess that there were probably about 100 jeeps waiting at 2:00 – and another couple hundred or so drove in later. Groups of giggling school kids on day trips to the National Park, family groups packed 5 and 6 into a jeep that comfortably sits just 4 with at least one screaming kid, and a much smaller sub-set of serious folks with serious drivers.

It’s a mad-house – and it’s not going to be better inside the park because there is just one main road with only two short spur roads. If you stop to catch a shot you can expect at least 4 jeeps to try to squeeze by. And if you don’t leave passing room – and they must wait behind you – they will leave their engines running. On the wooden bridges that abound this makes for enough vibration to be sure to ruin most shots.

But this is the best place to see Tigers. We are going to have to make the best of it.

But despite Abi’s best efforts – again we are Tiger disappointed. And with so much noise – the animals seem more timid – and tend to stay further away from the road.

Tomorrow is another day.

So it’s home (sleeping policeman yet again), a great dinner, lovely conversation with our host who takes us on a tour of ‘The Big House” – and then it’s bed time.

Signing off with hopes of tiger sightings tomorrow…

The Soup Lady

Nov 5 – Travel Day – Manas to Kaziranga National Park – India on Safari – Day 4


We leave Musa Jungle Retreat near the Manas National Park and start our 8 hour drive across the Assme Province of India.

Helmut checks the distance – and it’s not really that far – but I’m guessing the 8 hour estimate is based on time spent dodging Goats, Cows, Cars, Trucks, Scooters, and all the other obstacles that make driving on the left in India such an adventure!

And one I am NOT signing up for! I don’t mind driving on the left – but I really seriously don’t want to try using my left hand to switch gears. That just sounds like an accident waiting for somewhere to happen.

Some interesting things I’ve learned about driving is Assme. 1 – you must honk your horn when passing trucks, even small ones. It’s a safety concern – both for you and the truck! (Well – that explains why folks call India noisy). 2 – Officially trucks are not allowed on the roads between 8:00 AM and 5:00 PM. This is an interesting rule if you think about it – but it makes sense if you are trying to control traffic congestion. Unfortunately – even here in Assme – lots of truck drivers either don’t know the rules – or ignore them. Good idea though, right?

Our mini-bus for 15 picks us up – we’re 5 including Abi (our guide) and the driver. Lots of space to spread out – and plenty of room for luggage.

The trip starts with us back-tracking – we leave the area near the Manas National Park and drive back to Guwahati. But this time we bypass the area near the airport – and instead head straight for the almost vertical Mountains that surround Guwahati to the East.

The ‘highway’ winds it way up the first of two mountains – past stalls selling Pineapples – tons and tons of Pineapples. Apparently this region is famous for its Pineapples – and it’s Coconuts. Abi gets the driver to pull over – and for about 60 cents he buys us two fresh pineapples. Our plan is to hand them to our next host – and ask for a repeat of our favorite dinner at Musa Jungle Retreat – Smoked Chicken and Pineapple!

We carefully pull back on the ‘highway’. Silly me – I thought highways were limited access… not here in India they aren’t – at least not the older ones. Stalls line the edges – which means you are swerving around cars pulling back on the road after shopping – and the distraction of the stalls themselves. Chalk that up to Surprising India!

We have a quick lunch break – nothing to write home about – and then take a detour to do a water Safari! Yup – that’s right – we’re going boating – to see Dolphins.

These are fresh water Dolphins – with remarkably long noses. But we quickly discover that they don’t jump out of the water. This makes picture taking almost impossible. Sure they poke their heads out from time to time – but each ‘peek’ is only a couple of seconds – not enough time to get your camera rotated and focuses.

Oh well – it was great being on the water – The sunset images were stunning and it broke up the long long drive.

Back in the bus – we head further East to our first HomeStay – Kathoni HomeStay near Kaziranga National Park.

Kaziranga is known for it’s Rhino population, It’s Begal Tiger Population, it’s Elephant populaton and it’s numerous birds. We’re here to spot all the larger animals – and given Abi’s love of birds – I’m betting I’ll be spotting birds as well.

This long and thin National Park has three entrances – one West, one East and one Central. Our HomeStay is located just a bit outside the East Entrance – so we must drive the entire length of the Park to get there.

Nothing is done to keep animals inside the Parks in India – or at least not the ones we’ve visited so far – instead the emphasis is on keeping Poachers out – and counting the cars going in and out.

In recent years India has made huge headway in stopping Poachers – even stoping folks from flying with fake replicas for endangered Animals. As annoying as that was for Andrea (foreshadowing here – she’s going to lose a fake tiger claw), it does make sense. When even replicas are banned – you know they are going to get seriously tough on actually body parts.

So – why am I bringing this up now? Because Kaziranga has no borders – animals are free to roam in and out of the park at will – and to try to keep the crossings clear for the animals – they have restricted speeds. They also have ‘traffic calming’ sections – what we’d call sleeping policemen. Some are just rumble strips – some will break an axel.

Our already slow pace slows down even further. What would be a quick 45 minute drive at home – is stretched to 2 hours.

Finally we arrive at our Kathoni HomeStay – after a short drive on a very very bumpy road. It is truly stunning.

The owner lives in the ‘big house’, our palace is a custom built 2 floor – 2 bedroom lodging – each bedroom has a king bed and a glorious en-suite bathroom – with teak floor in the shower and a huge shaded window that lets in light. There’s even a balcony for each room – with lovely Teak Furniture.

There’s a small fridge – and enough ‘munchies’ to keep even me happy. And they not only supply single use plastic bottles of water – they have glass pitchers with clean water as well. And the fridge is stocked with non-alcoholic drinks of all kinds – mostly heading towards fruits.

The first floor is completely open on all 4 sides – and shelters two custom built Bamboo tables each sitting 4, and a large serving bar that hides power strips, storage space, and behind that a sink for quick wash-ups. There are chairs around a fire pit to one side – and protected parking with a private gate as well.

My room – exactly like the one that Helmut and Andrea are sharing – features lots of storage space, lots of hanging space, a lovely work space and two chairs for relaxing and admiring the stunning view.

I’m definitely home.

We quickly clean up and come downstairs to enjoy our first dinner. The chef and his 3 helpers have done a wonderful job of preparing Indian Cusine for us to enjoy. I’m happy with a simple selection of a bit of rice and some Chicken. Helmut and Andrea are keen to try everything! They even serve us Crème Caramel for dessert.

We have our own butler – who seems unbothered by the crazy hours we’ll be attempting to dine (Safari’s tend to start early, eat breakfast after the first safari, then a bit of a rest – lunch – then an afternoon safari – then dinner. And he’s there for all those times – plus he greets us when we return from the Safari’s with home made lime drinks. I feel like royalty!

Dinner done – we head up stairs to shower off the dust of our travel – and to get to bed. No surprise – it’s an early morning – again!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 9 – What a Travel Day – Kaziranga – Guwdahati – Bagdogra – Singalila – Day 8


I know – I’m jumping ahead – but right now I’m in Singalila – on the Nepal/India border – and what a travel day this has been. I promise I’ll jump back to Kaziranga – but I need to get this day done and dusted.

After last night – check on the Blog for Nov 8 when I get around to writing it – we set our alarms for an early wake-up – 3:45 AM in my case. We have a long, long, long day in front of us.

Alarm goes off – and it is so early – I forget where the cell phone is sitting! So it seems like I’m going to wake everyone before I find the thing and shut it off! (Yup – I woke Helmut and Andrea – as they later tell me… sigh).

Ok – I’m up. I must pack – and of course I’ve strewn stuff everywhere. We have a 4 hour drive first, then a short 35 minutes flight, then another 4 hour drive before we get to our next Homestay – on the border between Nepal and India in the foothills of the Himalayas.

I carefully plan my packing to have my large suitcase full, my carry-on light (I know they will weigh it), and I’ll have to sling my camera bag and backpack over my shoulder. That means my purse with my US Passport, all my credit cards, and my spare reading glasses are going into the Carry-on. I have definitely over-packed – and my shopping yesterday doesn’t help – but I’m confident I’ll smile my way thru.

4:45 – I’m drinking a quick cup of coffee – saying good bye to our charming host and his staff – as I write in their guest book – we arrived as Guests – We left as good friends. Amazingly beautiful Homestay – Wow.

Abi arrives a bit late – but assures us it’s no problem. Our flight to Bagdogra isn’t until 1:15 – We’ll be fine.

They load us into the van – we say final farewells – and we’re off.

At 5:15 the roads are blissfully empty – except of course for the goats and dogs, people walking, Tuk-Tuks, Bikes, scooters, motorcycles, and the occasional car and truck.

Drivers here have nerves of steel and the reflexes of Batman.

Bumpy road out to the paved road, thru the lovely village of the Tea People of Assame – and onto a main paved road that runs parallel to the border of Kaziranga Park.

No Tiger’s make their presence known – but we count at least a dozen Rhinos that have come to the marshland that borders the Park to munch on the lovely fresh greens this morning.

Once past the Western End of the National Park – the road curves gradually through villages and towns. There are sections with construction, there are magnicent Temples (mostly Hindu – but other religions are also represented) – Market after Market – including a cow market and the road gets busier and busier.

We eventually stop for a bathroom break and breakfast. The plan is to visit the ladies/men’s rooms – then grab just a quick coffee before heading back to the bus to eat the breakfast our Homestay packed for us.

But our driver has ordered Puri – and I’ve never seen Puri before. Not like these anyway – they are huge round puff balls of Onion flavoured bread that are crunchy and thin and DELICIOUS. We order that – then Parata (another type of breakfast bread), and then Dosa – the large pancake that looks like a crepe but is crisp and light. Oh Yum.

Breakfast done – we’re off. Back on the road and driving past miles and miles of Assame Tea Plantations.

Finally we are going up the hill – that’s an understatement – it’s a fairly decent sized Mountain actually – that separates the tea plains of Assame from the City of Guwahati – 3 Million people (and at least 4 Million Cows and the same number of goats).

Up, Up, Up the road curves in a car swaying series of sharp 135 degree turns. Our driver handles not only the curves – but the required dodging in and out with nerves of steel.

At the top we get a brief respite – and then we must drive down the other side. Stalls selling Pineapples crowd the edges of the road – with cars haphazardly parked while folks shop. The road continues to snake down in a series of 135 degree turns that remind me of a roller coaster ride I hated years ago.

Eventually – we are in Guwahati – and now must brave the construction, trucks, goats, people, scooters… etc… of this very large city. An hour later we are safely at the airport – my palms sweaty from gripping the metal bar that separates me from the Passenger Seat.

This should be the easy part. Just get out of our van, get into the airport, get on the plane, get to Bagdogra. And from there a quick 4 hour ride to Singalila – home to Red Pandas – the purpose of this part of our adventure.

But first I check my messages – My grand-daughter Sophie was in a competition called D-Voice – and of the 25 participants – she’s made the top 3 finalists and is going on to an inter-collegiate competition with the top 3 singers from 5 other Schools! I’m so proud of her.

Back to getting into the airport. There’s a military gun truck stationed in the roadway – desert camouflage with a guy in the turret aiming a machine gun at us! OMG. We walk past – he’s not being friendly – and enter the airport.

Our passports, Visas, and tickets are scanned by another solider – and we’re allowed in.

Now the luggage that will go inside the plane is run thru a scanner and then zip-tied shut. No touching them again. In the rush – not only is my green large suitcase taken – but so is my burgundy carry-on. My comments are ignored – my carry-on is now zip-tied shut – and it contains my purse! I have my Canadian passport but I have no credit cards and only 50 rupees in my pocket.

Abi pushes us (we’re apparently later than he’d like) around the airport – finds the check-in counter – and they want to weigh everything. We’re only allowed 7 kg of carry-on – but fortunately all the camera gear doesn’t count.

For security – Abi tells us – no food, no water – so we dump our precious water – and Helmut and Andrea down a small water bottle filled with rum that they have been carrying for a night cap. Since it’s full – I’m guessing there were no night caps… but hey. I dump my precious water. We left the sandwiches packed by the HomeStay in the van for the driver – another mistake it turns out.

My suitcase plus my carry-on do not pass muster. I have to pay over-weight or over count – or over something – and it’s 14,000 rupees – that’s almost $200. With my credit cards out of reach inside my zip-tied closed bag – Abi has to cover that expense for me. I’m going to owe him plenty when this is done.

But I’m not going to argue now. My suitcase and my carry-on (with my credit cards) disappears into the luggage conveyor- and we head for security.

Completely different rules from what we were told to expect. Has Abi never done this before? Did the rules change in the last year – who knows. Food and drink are no problem!

We quickly get to the security check-point – and I am forced to go to a different section – leaving Abi and Helmut and Andrea. I make sure that Abi has seen that I’ve been singled out – and he smiles and waves – it’s ok.

Turns out that there is a security line for women only. The men have a choice of at least 6 lines – we have just one. Andrea quickly joins me. I’m so relieved.

It’s now that we discover that while liquids are just fine – replicas of endangered species are NOT. Andrea’s fake tiger paw – which she’s been carrying around from trip to trip for years – is confiscated.

And then we find out why there’s women’s only line. We must individually go into a curtained private booth for a body search. They don’t touch us (thank goodness) – but they wand us looking for metal. The zippers in my safari pants are found and quickly ignored.

I’m out – Andrea’s out without her fake tiger paw – and with the remains of the Rum and a sandwich from the Homestay she’s forgotten to throw away.

Sheesh.

We re-gather at our gate – wait to board our flight – and I quickly realize why it’s a good thing that they took my carry-on. This plane is just about the smallest one I’ve seen for years. And that’s counting the seaplane in St. Croix. There’s no room for even the smallest carry-on – I’m lucky my camera bag fits in the overhead.

The Flight (although about an hour late leaving) is fast and painless. I have been assigned a window seat – and the view is stunning. There’s a river that runs below us – glistening in the noon sun.

We land at Bagdogra – and quickly de-plane and grab our luggage. Thank goodness both of mine are safely back in my hands. I’m so happy to see my carry-on – with not only my credit cards – but with my US Passport!

This time we have two drivers. And Two cars. The smaller car is filled with our luggage – the larger one will be carrying us for the four hour drive to the Nepal border.

After about 30 minutes of lovely scenery filled with more tea plantations and ladies gathering the tea leaves by hand, filling baskets and transferring their precious burdens into trucks (or bicycles) for transport to the processing plant – we enter the beginnings of the Himalayas.

I’m not prepared.

I’m sitting in the middle of the back seat of the car – no seat belt – no actual seat – and the road quickly becomes a one and a half lane – but two way road – up and up and up. Curve after curve after curve. If there is traffic in the other direction – and there’s LOTS of traffic in the other direction – we must squeeze left – and they must squeeze right to get past.

If I thought the drive to the airport in Guwahati was scary – it was nothing compared to this.

I’m either gasping for breath or grabbing the left or right head rest to keep from slamming into either Andrea or Abi.

Our driver literally has nerves of steel – he doesn’t slow down for anything! We swerve into the lane on the right to pass car after car after truck – then quickly swerve back into our lane in the face of on-coming traffic. Meanwhile we’re climbing about 2000 meters into the Mountains.

Amazingly – there are actually villages – even small towns – occasionally squeezed on ether side of the road. When we get to a town, not only are we dodging the other traffic – there are parked cars to swerve around, people crossing the road – and after it becomes dark – neon everywhere!

My stomach was never meant to experience this kind of driving.

Abi realizes I’m getting just a touch upset – and offers to switch places with me. He takes the middle seat and I try to fasten the seat belt on the passenger seat. Won’t work.

So now I’m squeezed between the door and Abi – while we continue our upward swerving climb. At least on our side of the road is the Mountain – not the jaw dropping plunge into nothing that is on the right side.

I keep thinking – in 5 days – I have to repeat this trip – alone. On the other side of the road. I wish I’d stayed in nice safe comfy Kaziranga.

I keep asking – how much longer. And it’s never just 10 minutes. The time is endless – and my stomach is getting more and more agitated.

Finally – Finally – we enter the last of the little villages – which is having a cultural festival. There are folks sitting in folding seats on the right edge of the road – and performers – including clearly the Mayor of the Town on the left.

They separate long enough to motion us down a rutted dirt path – aka nearly vertical ‘road’ down towards our Homestay.

A few more swerves and curves and we’re in another village center. This time, our drivers get out to find the driver of a truck that is parked blocking the entrance to the ‘road?’ To our Homestay. He moves – we drive down – and end up at a prison block.

Metal walls in front and on the sides. Buildings in varying states of decay and construction – none of which look habitable.

Even Helmut and Andrea – who are truly seasoned travellers – are alarmed. Abi has told us that while he’s stayed at Singalila before – he’s never stayed in this Homestay. I’m thinking – it’s a scam. There is no Homestay – we’re sleeping in the car. Helmut must be tuned to my brain because he says – well – we can always sleep in the car.

Oh dear.

Then the car doors open – and a young man with a smiling face greets us and gestures to the one door that actually looks like a door. We enter the Homestay to discover we’re on the ground floor – and our rooms are on the 2nd floor. We climb up and are shown our rooms.

I’m in the Sapphire Room – a Queen bed, my own toilet – and a Balcony! Helmut and Andrea are across the hall with a king bed – and Abi is at the end of the hall. Up one more flight is the common area – very lovely if a bit on the cold (temperature) side – and there sit two folks from England near Cambridge. They arrived this morning – and have already seen a Red Panda.

Our hosts give us each a cup of tea (I drink hot water, Helmut gets coffee), and we’re told that dinner is served at 7:00.

There’s great internet – there’s lot of space – the folks seem nice – but my stomach is not interested. It is still thinking about the drive up the Mountain – and trust me – I’m fairly sure I can not eat anything.

We set-up our rooms – then re-group for dinner. They have set each group – us, the couple from England, and the drivers, at separate tables – which is a shame – I was really hoping to chat with the folks from England.

They serve a multi-course meal of Indian Specialities from the region – but I can’t put anything into my stomach. I just want to curl up in my nice warm bed. And why is my bed warm? They have electric Mattress heaters!

Finally dinner is over and I can escape back to my room. Never has any space looked so lovely.

Despite the dogs barking – that will go on all night – my bed is warm, it’s a bit on the firm side – which I like – and I’m done.

Signing off to face another day in surprising, amazing, lovely once you get past the driving, India.

I’m so glad I came.

The Soup Lady

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 3


I meet the Minister of Tourism for this part of India.

It’s another early morning – and when we arrive at reception – there’s a crowd. I spot a man carrying one of the those massive birding lens – and ask – Wow – 600 or 800? Answer – it’s 800.

Abi quickly joins us to introduce me to the Minister of Tourism and I take in the rest of the crowd. There the manager of the Retreat, several staff, lots of police looking ‘protective’, and us.

Oh – hi.

The Minister gets into his jeep, most of the rest get into their jeeps – and the three jeep parade takes off – heading for the entrance to the Park.

Abi says – ok – here’s the plan – we need to try some off the path trails to avoid getting stuck behind those guys – our goal – be in front!

So we quickly load up and leave. The Minister and his entourage haven’t gotten far – they found a bird in a tree right outside the retreat, so we scoot past and head for the park.

After yesterday – our decision is not to do that long drive again – not worth it. Instead we want to explore the paths less visited around the park.

And it’s a winning decision. Lots of great photo opps – although we sadly don’t see any monkeys. I’m getting a lot better at spotting the birds when Abi points them out – and also getting better at using my cameras.

I’m up to about 1000 photos to edit – but some of them are winners.

The highlight for me of our two safari’s today – besides dodging the Minister’s party – is our rest stop.

We are parked on a higher ridge line overlooking the river – just enjoying the view of Butan and enjoying a brief snack. In the distance in the river there is a solitary true Buffalo with his giant horns – and in the far distance two juvenile Rhino are playing in the water.

After a bit – Diplip says – excuse me – I need to use the little boys room. On one side of our admittedly tiny hill is a guard house – on the other side is a path down to the river. And there’s a bit of shade.

Diplip gets out of the jeep – walks along the ruts on the ridge line about 25 steps – and then quickly hassles back to the jeep! There are 2 Adult Rhinos just behind the guard house.

We slowly drive forward to take a look at- then Abi says – Back up Diplip – they are going to go around the back of the Guard House. We return to the shade of our tree – and are treated with 2 HUGE Rhinos just munching their way thru the back path of the Guard House, around to the ‘front’ yard right under our noses. One has a single horn – this is the older of the pair.

We shoot and shoot and shoot.

They hear the noises of our cameras – but can’t quite figure out where it is coming from – so we get full face views!

Awesome.

After a bit the Rhinos decide that they would like to join us on the ridge – Diplip slowly and carefully moves out of their way – and with surprising speed for such massive beasts – they run up the jeep path – up and over the ridge – and head down the way towards the river.

Perfect.

Absolutely Perfect.

We head back to the Retreat for breakfast/lunch – a break – and then we head out again. Before we go – I’m tasked with ordering dinner. And I ask if they do Tandouri Chicken. Turns out they just got a Tandouri Oven – so the answer is yes! It’s Chicken tonight people!

After this morning’s adventures – the afternoon is quite relaxed. We spot up close a true Indian Buffalo (not a Guar) with it’s Magnificat horns spread about 5’ wide – have a face to face encounter with a Guar with only one horn who poses for pictures, and find more stunning sunset pictures.

Tomorrow we’re leaving Manas for another Park – and 8 hour drive away. So at least I’ll get to sleep in until 5:30… but then I must pack.

Dinner was predictably delicious – Helmut even gets a Cold Beer – not the easiest thing to find apparently – and we are all happy campers.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Close encounters at Manas National Park


I just can’t resist sharing this photo.

Andrea is sitting in back of me – and the Elephant decided to reach over her head to give the top of Helmut’s head – sitting right next to me – a bit of a sniff.

Enjoy the image.. imaging the moment!

The Soup Lady!

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 2


It’s another glorious sunrise – I just love my room, now that I’ve had a chance to actually look at it. King Bed, tons of space, private bathroom with a lovely shower and for some reason a bucket in the shower with a small scoop.

When we gather to meet our driver – this time I get his name – Diplip – which means King – I ask and am told – that’s if you don’t want to use either the shower head or the hand held. Oh. Or – you can use it for washing your clothes. Oh again.

This time we have agreed to meet earlier – 5:30 – because we’re going to drive an hour (this I didn’t know until we did it) to another entrance to the Park. We’re told that this entrance is less frequently used – and we should have the park to ourselves.

Today is Sunday – and it’s 5-30 AM – and we are the only car on the road. Everyone else who is moving around – and there aren’t very many people about yet – are either walking, setting up shop, riding bicycles or riding in Tuk-Tuks. The roads aren’t crowded – in fact – they are so quiet that the driving danger comes not from the Tuk-Tuks but from the small mostly black goats. Apparently they think they own the road and stand, walk or sit on it. In large groups of maybe 7, or as individuals. And Diplip just casually steers the jeep around the groups, acting as if this is completely normal.

I suspect it is normal.

Half of the road is brilliantly paved, flat and lovely, half of the distance to the entrance is potholed and Diplip has to serve from side to side – not only to avoid the goats – but to avoid the worst of the potholes.

I smile and wave at everyone. I figure – if they smile back – it will be good day. And it’s a brilliant day. At least half of the people smile back and wave too. Not just the kids – but adults as well. I’m not sure if they are just shocked to see folks like us up and around so early – or if a crazy white lady in a Tiley Hat waving madly seems like something worth a smile. But it works!

We get to the entrance, pick up an armed guard after some discussion – I think so few folks use this entrance that they are amazed we actually went to go in – who again has a rusted rifle – and we head into the park.

The good news is- there are no other tourists. The bad news – there are no animals either.

A very disappointing Safari.

We eventually give up – repeat our hour drive back to the Musa Jungle Retreat – and get to eat breakfast/brunch.

The vote is to NOT repeat that trip – this afternoon we’re going back to the main entrance and just deal with the crowds.

To make up for the disappointing morning – this afternoon is amazing. We finally find the Elephants – and gets some great shots. There are two kinds of Elephants in the park – Domestic and Wild. They look just alike to me – except the Domestic ones have chains around one of their ankles. The guards ride them during their patrols of the Park, or use them to do heavy lifting when trees fall down and block the jeep paths.

Speaking of the guards – there are guard posts located all thru the park. These are ‘man caves’ where the guards live during their ‘duty’ weeks. And they are what you’d expect from a ‘man cave’ with no running water except from a well, outdoor toilets used only by guys (nope – I didn’t go it – Helmut checked), and a fire pit for cooking.

But the guards are so proud of their post. When they are in their kaki uniforms they look quite dashing – but often we spot them in more casual wear. These guard posts are their homes!

We spot more birds. There is a tree I call the Tree of Life that sports 2 Peacocks, an Elephant at the base, and countless other birds in the branches. It is stunningly beautiful.

We hang around a lake/pond for a while – just clicking away at the lovely reflections – and Abi gleefully identifies all the different birds we see and hear.

As the Sun starts to set – we head back – to find our way blocked by a family of 5 elephants! Mom and what we eventually decide is also Mom, and 3 juveniles of decreasing age. The pose for pictures coming straight at us – and Diplip slowly and oh so casually backs up the jeep to avoid them charging us. They continue to ‘follow’ us – and Diplip continues our retreat until they get bored with the game and turn off to much some particularly yummy grass.

Whew! Diplip puts the gear into forward and we slowly drive around the group, staying on the road as required.

30 minutes of bumpy path back to the gate in the dark with only our headlights to see the way – then home to the Musa Jungle Retreat.

Dinner at 6:30 – my butter chicken, and a real treat called Smoked Chicken and Pineapple that we all agree is totally delicious. Abi introduces us to some of his friends (fellow tour guides that he’s grown up with), and the manager of the Musa Jungle Retreat joins us for a bit to ask if we are having a good time.

I feel like a very important – but very tired person.

Helmut’s watch reports that he’s walked 16,000 steps today. That’s what that bumpy road apparently means to our Apple Watches!

Home – bed – and another early morning tomorrow.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 1


Today starts off bright and early! 6:00 AM and the sun is just starting to rise. As asked – we gather at the reception area of the resort, are greeted by Abi, and load up our personal 4×4 Jeep.

The lovely driver will be with us for the next 3 days – so today is a ‘getting used to the tourists’ day for him and ‘getting comfy with our cameras’ for us.e

Our transport is an open air jeep with three rows of 2 seats each. First row is for the driver on the right side, and there is a passenger seat on the left.

Helmut opts for the middle seat – behind the driver on the right – Andrea wants to sit in the back next to Abi, and the passenger seat is reserved for the park employee who is tasked with keeping us safe.

He is carrying a rifle. I’d feel a lot safer if the rifle weren’t rusted, and looks like it dates back to the days of British control of India. But Abi explains that the guard is just there to fire the gun if an animal attacks – not to actually hit the animal. The noise will scare them off.

We’re talking tigers and leopards and Rhinosaurs here.. and Elephants. There is no roof to our 4×4 jeep – and as our driver says – it’s seen better days. Lots better. Maybe better years. Maybe 30 years…

But we are not here to worry about the luxury of our travel – we’re here to see animals.

As with Safari’s I’ve taken in Africa – you get up early, return for breakfast/brunch, rest for a few hours, then go out again in the evening – and that’s the plan here as well.

Our ‘retreat’ is just around the corner from the entrance to the Park, and at 6:00 there’s no traffic. So we zip out, and are quickly at the entrance.

Our fees have been pre-paid, so we are simply waved in – and Abi directs the driver as to which path to take. The roads in the park (and you aren’t allowed to drive off road like we did in Kenya) are poorly maintained and very rutted – so I have to brace my knee against the metal door frame. It’s actually not uncomfortable. But to take photos – I generally need to stand on the seat – which means taking off my shoes!

Today we spent quite some time taking pictures of monkeys – they aren’t spoiled brats like the ones in Bali who will attack you – these guys are simply adorable. Doing their things in a monkey way. I got some great shots.

We also passed a very touristy Elephant Ride activity – but in the morning haze – the pictures looks awesome.

Abi is a bird fiend – and we stop time and time again for him to identify and get us to see (trust me – the latter was the hard part) – bird after bird after bird.

We wind up actually in Butan. There is a National Park in Butan that shares a long border but only one entrance with the Manas National Park. We pose for pictures at the border, but can’t cross – there’s a lot of paper work involved for non- Indians.

Eventually it’s home for lunch and a break – then back on the road again. This time we score an Elephant family (Mom, Dad, Junior) who pose for pictures for at least an hour. We also take a photo of a lovely butterfly, some other birds, and then end up at sunset in a grassland area with a stunning sky and wonderful trees. I go snap happy!

Then we spot a guard tower (these are all over the park – and free to climb) – and see a herd of Guar headed our way. Yup – they have two kinds of buffalo here in the Manas Park. These giants have white socks on all 4 legs, and smaller horns then the true buffalo of India. Their horns curl out and up and they are generally found in herds.

They move closer and closer until they are just maybe 30 feet away. Our guard is not happy that they are this close – but clearly we have parked the Jeep where they think they should be walking. We take pictures – say good bye to the guard house and the Guar – and head home.

The rutted roads of the Park taken at speed feel like those exercise machines that jiggled you to take off wait – and it’s about 40 minutes in the dark to the park gate. My watch asks if I want to record my outdoor walk!

An early night. Can you believe it.

I’m so happy I can’t stand it.

For dinner I order Onion Pakora – and a Ginger Soup. Abi thinks I’m starving myself – so under pressure I add Butter Chicken and Rice.

We have WAY too much food. The Butter Chicken goes back to the kitchen to keep for dinner the next night – and I gleefully scarf down the best onion Pakoras I’ve ever eaten.

It’s bed time – I’m done. I transfer my pictures to my ipad, plug in my batteries to charge.. and drop.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Adventure Travel – Aka – Something goes wrong


It’s not an Adventure until something goes wrong!

After leaving the Emirates flight to Kolkata – which has arrived a bit late – but I’m not concerned – I choose to wait for Helmut and Andrea near where they have the folks getting wheel chairs. I figure they flew cheap economy and Helmut is not walking super fast – so they are going to be getting off last. But there’s seat – and I’m still on my high from spending time in my personal suite – what could possibly go wrong?

We re-unite, Helmut agrees to accept the ride in a wheelchair and our lovely newest friend directs us down the hall and into the ‘fast’ line for folks in Wheelchairs. Unfortunately, one of our fellow wheelchair riders didn’t get her Visa to India done correctly – and the line stalls out while the patient border guard walks her thru the challenge.

Eventually it’s our turn – and we quickly clear the border to realize that the luggage hasn’t yet gotten off the plane. Ok – we wait. Our luggage appears (thank goodness – I hadn’t seen mine since Montreal, Helmut and Andrea last saw there’s in Munich!)

We exit the border control area – and re-group. In the instructions we were all sent – it was clear that we had to exit the airport to meet up with the guy from the travel agency who would have our boarding passes. Andrea decides to walk out first – and Helmut and I follow slowly. Slow enough to get stopped by a guy with a GUN! He’s dressed in camouflage and I’m hoping he’s India Military…

Without a word of English or German – he waves Helmut – still being pushed by our new best friend – and me back into the airport – and clearly won’t let Andrea back in!

Our wheelchair driver explains to Andrea that she needs to go up stairs to enter the airport – we have to go to the interior entrance that is at the far end of the concourse. We make our way to the interior entrance – and our drive asks Helmut for his Ticket. I have mine – but Andrea went outside to get their boarding passes! Here’s where confusion 1 happens – Helmut has their tickets – he doesn’t have the boarding passes, or as it turns out his Passport. With the ticket he can get past security. – but not without his passport.

I’m ok – I have my ticket and my passport – but I don’t want to leave Helmut. The wheelchair driver doesn’t realize a) Helmut has the tickets and b) Helmut doesn’t have his passport. He and Helmut are certain that the issue is Andrea and the boarding passes.

So we all wait thinking Andrea will appear shortly – but she doesn’t.

We try to call Andrea – but her phone isn’t working (she has an old phone and no India service), mine isn’t working either (not sure why – but it wouldn’t help anyway) , and we are all stuck. After a few minutes of hair pulling – our driver decides to find Andrea. Hopefully she has the boarding passes. And Helmut reminds him – his Passports – she is carrying both passports.

Helmut and I wait. The line to enter grows longer and longer – and then I decide to check on the time of our next flight. It’s at 10:10 – and it’s now after 9:00 AM. I doubt we’ll make it. But I don’t say anything to Helmut – this isn’t good news – but with no passport – Helmut isn’t going anywhere!

The driver returns – announcing that all the guy had for Andrea – who is now inside the terminal – was my ticket. No boarding passes. Then we all realize that in fact – all we needed were the tickets – and Helmut has those – but no passport – that’s still with Andrea.

Again we divide and conquer. I get inside and go find Andrea. We got to the Guest Assistance desk for the airline on my ticket India2Go – explain the problem – maybe they will hold the flight? and the guy says – why aren’t you on the flight!

I explain that I’m traveling with friends. And they have no boarding passes. He says – take the tickets to the counter and they will get the boarding passes. I know that Helmut has both tickets, and suddenly realize that Andrea has Helmut’s passport (that wasn’t clear to me until that moment) – so I grab the passport and run back to security – I find Helmut and the driver, and explain – Helmut has the tickets – it’s the TICKETS they need at security – not the boarding passes.

We pass thru security – race to the nice guy at the guest help desk who explains we are too late. The flight is closed. We need to sit down on these chairs and just wait till they finish boarding = then they will rebook us.

The lovely wheelchair driver says good bye at this point – and takes the wheelchair with him. No matter. We are just sitting around anyway.

Finally the 10:10 flight has departed and the India2Go team have time to talk to us. They quickly realize that even though the time for the flight on Helmut and Andreas ticket is exactly the same as the time on my ticket – the AIRLINE is different. Their tickets are on AirIndia!

OMG.

We finally reach Cristina (travel agent) and Avi (her assistant in Delhi) and they say. Ok – step 1 – let’s just ask Air India if they can help. If they can’t help – we’ll go back to India2Go and buy two seats on the 4:00 flight that I’m on.

Air India folks are very pleasant – but the next Air India flight to our destination is tomorrow. So sorry.

Ok – we call Avi back – he gets Helmut and Andrea tickets on the 4:00 flight to our destination in Northeastern India – and we hand in our suitcases. Their bags are checked for free – my bag costs $70 Canadian to fly. At this point – I’m not getting upset. At least we will make it to our destination by 5:45 of so tonight.

We stay in the airport, go past security (real security this time – not the front door to the airport security) and grab Chinese Food for lunch. Spring Rolls. Delicious.

We board our flight – arrive in Guwahati – are met by Abi (I know – different guy and different name – but just one letter off!) – who reminds us that we now have a 4 hour drive to get to the Musa Jungle Retreat. But don’t worry – they got a large car.

We walk out to the car park – and they didn’t get a large car – they got a BUS! It has 5 sets of seats for 3 people – so plenty of room for the 5 of us. Abi, the driver of the Bus, and us!

We load up – Helmut takes 3 seats to rest his leg – and we pull out and into the main road to Kolkata.

It’s Diwali – The festival of Lights – and in India – this is a BIG THING. Fireworks everywhere – folks tossing firecrackers like mad men, the building are all strung with lights that hang down from the roof to the ground – no mean feat for 3 story buildings by the way.

Neon is clean IN – but it’s the hundreds of strings of lights 45’ long hanging from buildings that just says – WAY over the top.

Think Christmas lights on Steroids with Firecrackers and folks wandering around in the Diwali Best! It’s AWESOME!

I’m loving the action – Andrea is also having fun – but poor Helmut is trying to just not hurt so much.

About 1/2 way to Musa we stop for Pastry and tea. I have hot water – and then pick out two pastries that look good. Oh may – not what I expected of course – but delicious. I’m quite the fan of coconut – so the first one was my personal favorite, but there was also a savoury version of a puff pastry tart that we divided up 4 ways!

Back into the Bus – and on the Musa.

After the day we’ve had – I think just about anything would have been perfect if it had a bed in a room with a toilet. But Musa’s Jungle Retreat is first class. AC, fans, private toilets, king size beds, huge rooms, lots of staff… Man – too bad it’s past midnight and Abi wants us ready to go at 6:00 AM

I drop exhausted into my stand-along cabin with its glorious view, magnificent porch, and oh so welcoming King size bed.

I’m done.

More tomorrow.

Signing off – the Soup Lady

Emirates First Class KICKS ASS!


I have clearly been double blessed – when I booked this trip – I knew I would need to have a lay flat bed in order to sleep. 36 hours of travel is no joke.

But I was clearly unaware of what Emirates First Class is really, really like.

I left you at the Emirates First Class Lounge – Sushi Bar, tons of pastry options – service upon service. I just glazed in wonder, enjoyed the feel of luxury (and those that know me know that I do enjoy the feel of over the top luxury.. ) and gathered my stuff to find my friends.

Helmut and Andrea were to meet me at Gate B12 – where the flight for Kolkata would be departing, and I knew they’d wonder if I was delayed. In hindsight – taking some ‘take-out’ for them would have been the best plan – but nope – I didn’t think about that. Next time, more smarter!

I got just a bit lost trying to get out of the lounge, past the insanely huge Business class Emirates lounge, and managed to end up in a dead end. This is a HUGE airport. Ok – no problem. I’ll backtrack – return to the First Class lounge and start again. This time I do better – and find the escalator down before walking the length of that HUGE Business Lounge. I finally get to Gate B12 and it’s packed – wall to wall, ceiling to floor – people. Every chair is taken – and the folks waiting are now flooding past the boundaries of the gate and flowing to both side gates.

Ok – I’ll just go slowly. I walk past the mobs – noting the huge group of folks – men and women, mostly older – dressed in white and wearing Name tags. Clearly a group of some kind.. I did ask – and they are pilgrims returning from Mecca. Right – this is the flight to India!

I round a corner – and there’s Helmut – engrossed in his cell phone – I cough gently in my absolutely horrid German – say – do you speak German? He looks up curiously – recognizes me and Smiles broadly! Since he is still recovering from breaking his hip and left leg in multiple places – I insist he stay down and give him a big hug.

We chat a bit longer, they had just arrived (whew – timing perfect) – and then Andrea shows up. I realize that the crowd is getting thinner – and we mossy over to Gate B12. As First Class – I have a private check-in counter – but then everyone regroups downstairs in a larger waiting area. I save seats for Helmut and Andrea, they arrive – we chat – and then they start boarding the flight. I say goodbye – see you in Kolkata!

There are two jet-ways – one for First and Business Class passengers – one for the great unwashed. As per the gal in the Exotic Marigold Hotel, I get to turn left.

I wait while the folks in front of me in line get seated, and present myself at the entrance to the plane – and hand my ticket to the host on duty. He smiles broadly at me – welcomes me – and then leaves his post to walk me to my Suite.

Suite? Are you kidding me? I have a Suite? With a double doors and everything!

OMG

I’m repeating that – OMG.

This is so over the top even I’m amazed. It’s like that scene in Crazy Rich Asians when they are brought to their suite on the plane – and the gal jokes – these PJs are better than the ones I own at home.

And dutifully Michael – my new best friend and the host – asks my size and presents me with PJ’s.

The seat is a leather wonder with buttons and gizmos aplenty – there is a pop=up personal bar with water selections, there is a vanity space with what is described to me as lavender spray to make sure I sleep well among other delights. There is a goodie basket with snacks including 75% Dark Chocolate bars. There are a selection of seasoned nuts in little glass jars, there is a pillow – a MATTRESS – and of course a duvet.

Michael presents me with the menu – takes my order for breakfast – and then we discuss my alcohol options. I’m going for the Sauterne. Then I explains that I’m beyond exhausted and really just want to sleep. Can I delay breakfast until we are close to arriving in Kolkata. Of course my wish is his command – but he insists on showing off his skill at pouring Arabic coffee – which I politely taste and then get ready for take-off.

Once off the ground – I ask to have the bed made – and am blown away – again! The bed is a narrow strip of non-soft material barely wide enough for my hips – it’s a full sized twin – with a cozy mattress – that lovely duvet, a soft pillow – and slippers! And an eye mask of course.

I nestle down for the best sleep I’ve ever had on an airplane – and am woken by a gentle nap on the door. My suite has a door! Right. I remember that!

They serve me a lovely breakfast – shower me with more gifts – will this never stop – and then tell me to prep for landing.

To leave the plane with all my gifts – they give me a shopping bag to put stuff in, explaining that it’s really great quality and worth keeping. Gifts include a full size bottle of Bvlgari Perfume, too numerous to spell out other signature gifts, a lovely gold tote to hold all of them, neatly sized to fit into my carry bag – plus gifts of more sweets in honor of Duvali – the Hindu Festival of lights. My shopping bag is so heavy – I’m worried about getting stopped when I board the next flight!

I have been seriously spoiled. It will be horrid to have to tolerate the garbage that Air Canada calls First Class.

Heading off to find Helmut and Andrea – our real adventure is just beginning!

Signing off – The over-the top, that’s amazing – incredibly spoiled – Soup Lady!