Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 3


I meet the Minister of Tourism for this part of India.

It’s another early morning – and when we arrive at reception – there’s a crowd. I spot a man carrying one of the those massive birding lens – and ask – Wow – 600 or 800? Answer – it’s 800.

Abi quickly joins us to introduce me to the Minister of Tourism and I take in the rest of the crowd. There the manager of the Retreat, several staff, lots of police looking ‘protective’, and us.

Oh – hi.

The Minister gets into his jeep, most of the rest get into their jeeps – and the three jeep parade takes off – heading for the entrance to the Park.

Abi says – ok – here’s the plan – we need to try some off the path trails to avoid getting stuck behind those guys – our goal – be in front!

So we quickly load up and leave. The Minister and his entourage haven’t gotten far – they found a bird in a tree right outside the retreat, so we scoot past and head for the park.

After yesterday – our decision is not to do that long drive again – not worth it. Instead we want to explore the paths less visited around the park.

And it’s a winning decision. Lots of great photo opps – although we sadly don’t see any monkeys. I’m getting a lot better at spotting the birds when Abi points them out – and also getting better at using my cameras.

I’m up to about 1000 photos to edit – but some of them are winners.

The highlight for me of our two safari’s today – besides dodging the Minister’s party – is our rest stop.

We are parked on a higher ridge line overlooking the river – just enjoying the view of Butan and enjoying a brief snack. In the distance in the river there is a solitary true Buffalo with his giant horns – and in the far distance two juvenile Rhino are playing in the water.

After a bit – Diplip says – excuse me – I need to use the little boys room. On one side of our admittedly tiny hill is a guard house – on the other side is a path down to the river. And there’s a bit of shade.

Diplip gets out of the jeep – walks along the ruts on the ridge line about 25 steps – and then quickly hassles back to the jeep! There are 2 Adult Rhinos just behind the guard house.

We slowly drive forward to take a look at- then Abi says – Back up Diplip – they are going to go around the back of the Guard House. We return to the shade of our tree – and are treated with 2 HUGE Rhinos just munching their way thru the back path of the Guard House, around to the ‘front’ yard right under our noses. One has a single horn – this is the older of the pair.

We shoot and shoot and shoot.

They hear the noises of our cameras – but can’t quite figure out where it is coming from – so we get full face views!

Awesome.

After a bit the Rhinos decide that they would like to join us on the ridge – Diplip slowly and carefully moves out of their way – and with surprising speed for such massive beasts – they run up the jeep path – up and over the ridge – and head down the way towards the river.

Perfect.

Absolutely Perfect.

We head back to the Retreat for breakfast/lunch – a break – and then we head out again. Before we go – I’m tasked with ordering dinner. And I ask if they do Tandouri Chicken. Turns out they just got a Tandouri Oven – so the answer is yes! It’s Chicken tonight people!

After this morning’s adventures – the afternoon is quite relaxed. We spot up close a true Indian Buffalo (not a Guar) with it’s Magnificat horns spread about 5’ wide – have a face to face encounter with a Guar with only one horn who poses for pictures, and find more stunning sunset pictures.

Tomorrow we’re leaving Manas for another Park – and 8 hour drive away. So at least I’ll get to sleep in until 5:30… but then I must pack.

Dinner was predictably delicious – Helmut even gets a Cold Beer – not the easiest thing to find apparently – and we are all happy campers.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 2


It’s another glorious sunrise – I just love my room, now that I’ve had a chance to actually look at it. King Bed, tons of space, private bathroom with a lovely shower and for some reason a bucket in the shower with a small scoop.

When we gather to meet our driver – this time I get his name – Diplip – which means King – I ask and am told – that’s if you don’t want to use either the shower head or the hand held. Oh. Or – you can use it for washing your clothes. Oh again.

This time we have agreed to meet earlier – 5:30 – because we’re going to drive an hour (this I didn’t know until we did it) to another entrance to the Park. We’re told that this entrance is less frequently used – and we should have the park to ourselves.

Today is Sunday – and it’s 5-30 AM – and we are the only car on the road. Everyone else who is moving around – and there aren’t very many people about yet – are either walking, setting up shop, riding bicycles or riding in Tuk-Tuks. The roads aren’t crowded – in fact – they are so quiet that the driving danger comes not from the Tuk-Tuks but from the small mostly black goats. Apparently they think they own the road and stand, walk or sit on it. In large groups of maybe 7, or as individuals. And Diplip just casually steers the jeep around the groups, acting as if this is completely normal.

I suspect it is normal.

Half of the road is brilliantly paved, flat and lovely, half of the distance to the entrance is potholed and Diplip has to serve from side to side – not only to avoid the goats – but to avoid the worst of the potholes.

I smile and wave at everyone. I figure – if they smile back – it will be good day. And it’s a brilliant day. At least half of the people smile back and wave too. Not just the kids – but adults as well. I’m not sure if they are just shocked to see folks like us up and around so early – or if a crazy white lady in a Tiley Hat waving madly seems like something worth a smile. But it works!

We get to the entrance, pick up an armed guard after some discussion – I think so few folks use this entrance that they are amazed we actually went to go in – who again has a rusted rifle – and we head into the park.

The good news is- there are no other tourists. The bad news – there are no animals either.

A very disappointing Safari.

We eventually give up – repeat our hour drive back to the Musa Jungle Retreat – and get to eat breakfast/brunch.

The vote is to NOT repeat that trip – this afternoon we’re going back to the main entrance and just deal with the crowds.

To make up for the disappointing morning – this afternoon is amazing. We finally find the Elephants – and gets some great shots. There are two kinds of Elephants in the park – Domestic and Wild. They look just alike to me – except the Domestic ones have chains around one of their ankles. The guards ride them during their patrols of the Park, or use them to do heavy lifting when trees fall down and block the jeep paths.

Speaking of the guards – there are guard posts located all thru the park. These are ‘man caves’ where the guards live during their ‘duty’ weeks. And they are what you’d expect from a ‘man cave’ with no running water except from a well, outdoor toilets used only by guys (nope – I didn’t go it – Helmut checked), and a fire pit for cooking.

But the guards are so proud of their post. When they are in their kaki uniforms they look quite dashing – but often we spot them in more casual wear. These guard posts are their homes!

We spot more birds. There is a tree I call the Tree of Life that sports 2 Peacocks, an Elephant at the base, and countless other birds in the branches. It is stunningly beautiful.

We hang around a lake/pond for a while – just clicking away at the lovely reflections – and Abi gleefully identifies all the different birds we see and hear.

As the Sun starts to set – we head back – to find our way blocked by a family of 5 elephants! Mom and what we eventually decide is also Mom, and 3 juveniles of decreasing age. The pose for pictures coming straight at us – and Diplip slowly and oh so casually backs up the jeep to avoid them charging us. They continue to ‘follow’ us – and Diplip continues our retreat until they get bored with the game and turn off to much some particularly yummy grass.

Whew! Diplip puts the gear into forward and we slowly drive around the group, staying on the road as required.

30 minutes of bumpy path back to the gate in the dark with only our headlights to see the way – then home to the Musa Jungle Retreat.

Dinner at 6:30 – my butter chicken, and a real treat called Smoked Chicken and Pineapple that we all agree is totally delicious. Abi introduces us to some of his friends (fellow tour guides that he’s grown up with), and the manager of the Musa Jungle Retreat joins us for a bit to ask if we are having a good time.

I feel like a very important – but very tired person.

Helmut’s watch reports that he’s walked 16,000 steps today. That’s what that bumpy road apparently means to our Apple Watches!

Home – bed – and another early morning tomorrow.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 1


Today starts off bright and early! 6:00 AM and the sun is just starting to rise. As asked – we gather at the reception area of the resort, are greeted by Abi, and load up our personal 4×4 Jeep.

The lovely driver will be with us for the next 3 days – so today is a ‘getting used to the tourists’ day for him and ‘getting comfy with our cameras’ for us.e

Our transport is an open air jeep with three rows of 2 seats each. First row is for the driver on the right side, and there is a passenger seat on the left.

Helmut opts for the middle seat – behind the driver on the right – Andrea wants to sit in the back next to Abi, and the passenger seat is reserved for the park employee who is tasked with keeping us safe.

He is carrying a rifle. I’d feel a lot safer if the rifle weren’t rusted, and looks like it dates back to the days of British control of India. But Abi explains that the guard is just there to fire the gun if an animal attacks – not to actually hit the animal. The noise will scare them off.

We’re talking tigers and leopards and Rhinosaurs here.. and Elephants. There is no roof to our 4×4 jeep – and as our driver says – it’s seen better days. Lots better. Maybe better years. Maybe 30 years…

But we are not here to worry about the luxury of our travel – we’re here to see animals.

As with Safari’s I’ve taken in Africa – you get up early, return for breakfast/brunch, rest for a few hours, then go out again in the evening – and that’s the plan here as well.

Our ‘retreat’ is just around the corner from the entrance to the Park, and at 6:00 there’s no traffic. So we zip out, and are quickly at the entrance.

Our fees have been pre-paid, so we are simply waved in – and Abi directs the driver as to which path to take. The roads in the park (and you aren’t allowed to drive off road like we did in Kenya) are poorly maintained and very rutted – so I have to brace my knee against the metal door frame. It’s actually not uncomfortable. But to take photos – I generally need to stand on the seat – which means taking off my shoes!

Today we spent quite some time taking pictures of monkeys – they aren’t spoiled brats like the ones in Bali who will attack you – these guys are simply adorable. Doing their things in a monkey way. I got some great shots.

We also passed a very touristy Elephant Ride activity – but in the morning haze – the pictures looks awesome.

Abi is a bird fiend – and we stop time and time again for him to identify and get us to see (trust me – the latter was the hard part) – bird after bird after bird.

We wind up actually in Butan. There is a National Park in Butan that shares a long border but only one entrance with the Manas National Park. We pose for pictures at the border, but can’t cross – there’s a lot of paper work involved for non- Indians.

Eventually it’s home for lunch and a break – then back on the road again. This time we score an Elephant family (Mom, Dad, Junior) who pose for pictures for at least an hour. We also take a photo of a lovely butterfly, some other birds, and then end up at sunset in a grassland area with a stunning sky and wonderful trees. I go snap happy!

Then we spot a guard tower (these are all over the park – and free to climb) – and see a herd of Guar headed our way. Yup – they have two kinds of buffalo here in the Manas Park. These giants have white socks on all 4 legs, and smaller horns then the true buffalo of India. Their horns curl out and up and they are generally found in herds.

They move closer and closer until they are just maybe 30 feet away. Our guard is not happy that they are this close – but clearly we have parked the Jeep where they think they should be walking. We take pictures – say good bye to the guard house and the Guar – and head home.

The rutted roads of the Park taken at speed feel like those exercise machines that jiggled you to take off wait – and it’s about 40 minutes in the dark to the park gate. My watch asks if I want to record my outdoor walk!

An early night. Can you believe it.

I’m so happy I can’t stand it.

For dinner I order Onion Pakora – and a Ginger Soup. Abi thinks I’m starving myself – so under pressure I add Butter Chicken and Rice.

We have WAY too much food. The Butter Chicken goes back to the kitchen to keep for dinner the next night – and I gleefully scarf down the best onion Pakoras I’ve ever eaten.

It’s bed time – I’m done. I transfer my pictures to my ipad, plug in my batteries to charge.. and drop.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Emirates First Class KICKS ASS!


I have clearly been double blessed – when I booked this trip – I knew I would need to have a lay flat bed in order to sleep. 36 hours of travel is no joke.

But I was clearly unaware of what Emirates First Class is really, really like.

I left you at the Emirates First Class Lounge – Sushi Bar, tons of pastry options – service upon service. I just glazed in wonder, enjoyed the feel of luxury (and those that know me know that I do enjoy the feel of over the top luxury.. ) and gathered my stuff to find my friends.

Helmut and Andrea were to meet me at Gate B12 – where the flight for Kolkata would be departing, and I knew they’d wonder if I was delayed. In hindsight – taking some ‘take-out’ for them would have been the best plan – but nope – I didn’t think about that. Next time, more smarter!

I got just a bit lost trying to get out of the lounge, past the insanely huge Business class Emirates lounge, and managed to end up in a dead end. This is a HUGE airport. Ok – no problem. I’ll backtrack – return to the First Class lounge and start again. This time I do better – and find the escalator down before walking the length of that HUGE Business Lounge. I finally get to Gate B12 and it’s packed – wall to wall, ceiling to floor – people. Every chair is taken – and the folks waiting are now flooding past the boundaries of the gate and flowing to both side gates.

Ok – I’ll just go slowly. I walk past the mobs – noting the huge group of folks – men and women, mostly older – dressed in white and wearing Name tags. Clearly a group of some kind.. I did ask – and they are pilgrims returning from Mecca. Right – this is the flight to India!

I round a corner – and there’s Helmut – engrossed in his cell phone – I cough gently in my absolutely horrid German – say – do you speak German? He looks up curiously – recognizes me and Smiles broadly! Since he is still recovering from breaking his hip and left leg in multiple places – I insist he stay down and give him a big hug.

We chat a bit longer, they had just arrived (whew – timing perfect) – and then Andrea shows up. I realize that the crowd is getting thinner – and we mossy over to Gate B12. As First Class – I have a private check-in counter – but then everyone regroups downstairs in a larger waiting area. I save seats for Helmut and Andrea, they arrive – we chat – and then they start boarding the flight. I say goodbye – see you in Kolkata!

There are two jet-ways – one for First and Business Class passengers – one for the great unwashed. As per the gal in the Exotic Marigold Hotel, I get to turn left.

I wait while the folks in front of me in line get seated, and present myself at the entrance to the plane – and hand my ticket to the host on duty. He smiles broadly at me – welcomes me – and then leaves his post to walk me to my Suite.

Suite? Are you kidding me? I have a Suite? With a double doors and everything!

OMG

I’m repeating that – OMG.

This is so over the top even I’m amazed. It’s like that scene in Crazy Rich Asians when they are brought to their suite on the plane – and the gal jokes – these PJs are better than the ones I own at home.

And dutifully Michael – my new best friend and the host – asks my size and presents me with PJ’s.

The seat is a leather wonder with buttons and gizmos aplenty – there is a pop=up personal bar with water selections, there is a vanity space with what is described to me as lavender spray to make sure I sleep well among other delights. There is a goodie basket with snacks including 75% Dark Chocolate bars. There are a selection of seasoned nuts in little glass jars, there is a pillow – a MATTRESS – and of course a duvet.

Michael presents me with the menu – takes my order for breakfast – and then we discuss my alcohol options. I’m going for the Sauterne. Then I explains that I’m beyond exhausted and really just want to sleep. Can I delay breakfast until we are close to arriving in Kolkata. Of course my wish is his command – but he insists on showing off his skill at pouring Arabic coffee – which I politely taste and then get ready for take-off.

Once off the ground – I ask to have the bed made – and am blown away – again! The bed is a narrow strip of non-soft material barely wide enough for my hips – it’s a full sized twin – with a cozy mattress – that lovely duvet, a soft pillow – and slippers! And an eye mask of course.

I nestle down for the best sleep I’ve ever had on an airplane – and am woken by a gentle nap on the door. My suite has a door! Right. I remember that!

They serve me a lovely breakfast – shower me with more gifts – will this never stop – and then tell me to prep for landing.

To leave the plane with all my gifts – they give me a shopping bag to put stuff in, explaining that it’s really great quality and worth keeping. Gifts include a full size bottle of Bvlgari Perfume, too numerous to spell out other signature gifts, a lovely gold tote to hold all of them, neatly sized to fit into my carry bag – plus gifts of more sweets in honor of Duvali – the Hindu Festival of lights. My shopping bag is so heavy – I’m worried about getting stopped when I board the next flight!

I have been seriously spoiled. It will be horrid to have to tolerate the garbage that Air Canada calls First Class.

Heading off to find Helmut and Andrea – our real adventure is just beginning!

Signing off – The over-the top, that’s amazing – incredibly spoiled – Soup Lady!

*** Stop the Presses ***


OMG – there’s an even MORE beautiful first class lounge!

The Dubai airport is divided into three interconnected buildings – reasonably called A, B, And C. Very creative, right?

Anyway – I was in C – stayed and ate in the first class lounge there. Then following the directions of the lovely host of the lounge – made my slow way to B concourse – and the B version of the first class Emirates Lounge.

It’s about 10 times the size of the one I was in – has a Pizza oven section, a SPA! (You have to be kidding me), Showers, and – this really stopped me – A Sushi Bar with Sushi Chefs. Plus a standard for the Emirates huge buffet with various dishes, and yet again another dessert selection.

All the folks cooking sport tall, tall, tall Toque Blanche – or white hats. And one section of the lounge actually lets you walk past the kitchens – all stainless, all spotless clean at almost midnight – and with the staff cheerfully saying good night to each other.

The lounge also has fountains at the entrance. Huge fountains. Check out my picture – clearly it’s the Soup Lady on the Prowl!

The Soup Lady after 30 hours of travel – in the First Class Lounge Dubai

And here’s something I didn’t mention earlier – there are at least 2 five star hotels IN the airport. I mean the front desks are right off Concourse C and B – and the hotel rooms overlook the Concourse. I’m reminded of those huge 5,000+ passenger cruise ships where some folks pick the rooms looking over the center part of the ship. Who wants to see water when on a cruise ship anyway?

The hotels are designed to look different from the concourse architecture – one featuring Moroccan influenced arches, the other a unique facade. Beautiful. And my walk from C to B was filled with more neon flashing. And another two Duty Free Shops.

You have GOT to be kidding me.

And the ladies bathroom have sections for folks to wash their feet before services. That is definitely not something I’ve ever seen in North America.

This time – I’m really signing off.

Next stop Kalkata, India – which if all goes to plan will consist of us being picked up at the airport and driven to another airport to fly to another city to drive to our first Safari Park!

Yes – I’m exhausted just typing all that.

The Soup Lady

Emirates First Class Lounge in Dubai


I have died and gone to heaven! This place is insanely beautiful – not just the lounge which puts many of the fancy restaurants I’ve enjoyed over the years to shame – but the airport here in Dubai itself is worth seeing to believe!

I’m reminded of the line from the Movie “Crazy Rich Aliens” when they arrive in Singapore and the heroine quips – all JFK has is Salmonella and Despair.

This airport definitely rivals the one in Bali for sheer beauty. There are huge – like 60’ high – Palm trees growing inside the atrium of the Airport Walkways.

And there is the largest Duty-free shop I’ve ever seen. Plus more neon than in some areas of Tokyo. (Those of you who have been to Tokyo know what area I’m talking about…)

So how did a 76 year old traveling grannie – who admittedly tends to travel on the cheap side – end up sitting in this lovely lounge enjoying – get this – a Wagu Burger and fresh French fries?

Let’s start at the beginning – Many years ago we did a ‘cheap’ safari in Africa which emphasized camping outdoors in the game parks. I didn’t see nearly as many animals as I’d have liked – but we made good friends with a couple from Bavaria! And we’ve stayed friends over the years.

Our Bavarian Mates come from Munich – and over the years have teased us with their enthusiasm for wild and crazy travel. They are also very good friends!

So in May 2024 – when they told us they had planned a trip to India (a Safari to see Tigers, Red Pandas, and Rhinoceros) – I asked if I could tag along. Victor wasn’t the least bit interested – but I was totally determined to take on this unique challenge. Consider – at 76 – how many more times will I be willing/able to take on a 36 hr air flight – do homestays in a country that requires a lot of vaccines – and is often described as noisy and crowded and smelly.

And if your next thought is why would I want to – you are in the same mind as my husband! Even the Intrepid Traveler has no interest.

So here I am – part way thru my 36 hour flight to Kolkata. My Bavarian friends are also flying into Dubai from Munich – so we will meet at the gate to the Emirates flight to Kolkata.

Now you know why I’m sitting and waiting – but not why I’m doing it first class.

I have only flown first class once before in my life – and it was under similar circumstances. Neither Victor nor The Intrepid Traveler was coming along, I was joining friends in Bali – and the flight was in the 36 hr range. I figured the difference in price between economy and first class was just $20 an hour – and I was so WORTH it!

The same is true this time. The differential wasn’t that great – not when you thought of it per hour – and because I was going to have 2 long waits in airports (Toronto and Dubai) – Going first class sounded more than reasonable. It sounded like a deal!

The flight from Toronto to Dubai was on Air Canada – and while I enjoyed the service and the lay flat beds – I wouldn’t rate the experience as 5 star. The ‘Maple Leaf Lounge’ in the Toronto airport had mediocre food at best – my ‘dinner’ was Nachos with Pico de Gallo and shredded cold cheddar. It was food. And I ate it. The only desert options were cookies – chocolate chocolate chip and white chocolate with Macadamia nuts. They were my favorite part of the meal.

Food even in first class wasn’t that good either, I’m sorry to report. Waste of calories to be honest. I ate what I had to be sure my stomach wasn’t growling, but it was hardly memorable. Or maybe it was truly memorable in how deplorable it was.

Highlights – the fresh oranges in the fruit basket available near the service area. Those were indeed yummy. And the big TV to watch movies was quite a nice touch. But storage was non-existent, and because I’m so short – reaching the Touch Screen TV to change movies wasn’t easy. At least the headphones they gave us were noise cancelling. That was a nice touch.

On the other hand – the Emirates Lounges here in the Dubai Airport – and I visited two – were awesomely beautiful. The first one was the business class version – described by the hostess as smaller than the similar one in the B terminal. I think I need to check out that one – I thought the one I was in was huge. There was a vast display of food options – cold, hot, room temperature, an ice cream trolley with 8 different flavours and 4 types of cones, an entire desert display, and around a corner – another section with Indian specialities like Samosas.

A full pour it yourself Bar – plus bottles of several different wines were available.

I was just settled into the Business class Lounge when the hostess came up to tell me I was in the wrong place. I should be in the much much nicer First class lounge. And she helped me gather my things and walked me across the concourse.

Wow – This lounge is truly special – and I don’t blame her for saying – it was much nicer. It’s smaller, with a specific dining area – with get this – service! And the food is prepared to order! Wow. In an airport lounge. And the menu goes on and on for several pages. So many choices.

I opted for the Wagu Burger because I know I won’t seeing Beef for the next two weeks. Get it while I can I figure! And it was delicious. A huge portion I couldn’t finish – although I gave it my best effort. Easily the tastiest food I’ve had since leaving home!

Time for desert – there’s a lovely desert selection – and of course Ice cream. I’m having macaroons – and Pistachio Ice Cream.

Then it’s on to my gate, my friends (I hope), and my flight to Kolkata!

Signing off to gather and walk on – The Soup Lady

Days 8 and 9 – the journey Home


Sunday morning we must all say good-bye – take our last pictures of the Ranch – and start the drive back to Albuquerque and from there home.

All goes well. We return my rental car, (an incredible bargain of $107 US for 7 days rental) and jump into Carrie’s car and drive into Old Albuquerque- it’s a large area around a beautiful square that features restaurants and art shops and junk emporiums. Something for everyone.

We grab lunch at “The Old Time Cafe” – best bear claw ever – then wander from shop to shop. Eventually the heat gets to us and we decide to head back to the hotel for a nap before dinner.

Dinner at Applebee’s is as expected – but I enjoyed my rib steak (oh meat, how much I’ve missed you) and ate every dribble.

Back to the hotel – I say good night to my new friends and head off to bed.

My flight is at 6:00 AM and that means up at 3:00 AM to catch the 3:30 shuttle to the airport. I know – probably a bit of overkill – but I hate having to rush thru these things.

Needless to say – I don’t sleep.

Finally it’s 3:00 – I’m up, I’m dressed, I’m downstairs. The shuttle arrives – no issues – next stop the airport.

Check in, pass security – boring wait for the plane to Dallas to board – fly to Dallas, another long drag to the next gate. Just FYI – Dallas is a huge airport. Again nothing exciting to report – until I get a call from my husband.

He’s got a cold and doesn’t feel great – should he meet me at the airport, or do I take a taxi home?

I ask – did you get a COVID test. He says – not yet – on it.

He has COVID. I’m Not going home. I can’t risk getting sick. He has maybe a tough day – I get a tough month! So NO WAY am I going home.

Bummer.

What to do, what to do. A hotel say is so pricy – but I do have friends. I call the Intrepid traveler – and she immediately invites me to stay with her until Victor tests Negative.

Thank goodness for FRIENDS!

So I arrive in Montreal, I take a taxi to our house, my husband wears a mask, we stay 10’ apart and chat a bit – then I grab the car and drive to my friends home.

Crazy ending to a crazy adventure right?

It’s now 3 days later – Victor is feeling fine and testing negative and I’m home. Finally.

I’m so glad I’m home – I could kiss the floors but I think I’m just going to hug my husband and my bed!

End of an exciting adventure.. I’m not ready today for any more travel. I need at least 2 days off!

Signing off until my next adventure (how does a safari in India sound?)

The Soup Lady

Day 7 at an Art Retreat – it’s Fiesta Time


It’s our last day on retreat – the plan is spend the day finishing our art work, then meet at 4:00 for an art show and tell featuring – US!

This evening we’ve been invited over to the barn for a Fiesta prepared by our hosts… sounds yummy for sure.

The other night we were trying to take pictures of a lovely Cresent Moon in the oh so starry sky – and Dee managed to capture a picture of an alien. This is New Mexico of course – so that shouldn’t be so surprising – but today Carrie and I wanted to explore the area to see if we can figure out what she actually photographed.

No dice… Maybe it was an Alien? We are quite close to Los Alamos.

After our frustrating search of the grounds, I finish my rocks – enough for everyone to take one home – plus 2 extra. But guess who I forgot? Myself! So I’ll have to make my own memory rock when I get back to Montreal. Fortunately I’ve written down all the names often enough that I’m sure to remember them!

Cat, Carrie, Char, Carol, Dee, Leslie, Tabetha, Xan – 8 BadAss ladies – 8 wannabe Artists for sure!

I start one more painting – a huge in your face Sunflower that should end up interesting but has no chance of getting done today. But I do get a decent start.

Tabetha invites each of us to a one on one chat about our experience here at the retreat. She videos us talking about our experience, and with our permission might use these in a presentation. She’s very passionate about what she does – and I’m very glad I had this time to get to know her. I feel better about my future as an artist – more capable of continuing the exploration.

And – Oh so quickly it’s time for the Art Show. We carefully set up our personal displays in the ‘common’ room – and then get changed in preparation for a party night.

It’s quite a surprise to see all the pieces gathered in one place. Some of us are more experienced than others – I hadn’t realized that both Carrie and Char have only been painting for 9 months. I always think of myself as the rawest beginner at just over a year – and clearly it’s not true!

8 minds see the same wall quite differently – and we even took a photo of all of our paintings of the Adobe wall with the blue bench lined up. My version didn’t even include the bench! And yes I’ve attached the picture of our pictures – but you can only see it by hoping over to the main page of the blog. Just open a browser and go to MontrealMadame.com. Let me know what you think!

Some folks certainly get more ‘done’ than others. Cat and Xan were the most prolific – but I didn’t do too badly – and the rocks were definitely a hit. That felt great.

After our show and tell – which included stories about our history and reasons for painting – we gather in the ‘barn’ for our party.

This is the first time I’ve seen where our hosts – Leslie and Mitch – live. And it is amazing. They have transformed the barn into a massive kitchen – with very few drawers. So unlike Georgia O’Keeffe who hid all her plates in the walls, our hosts have everything on display – including all the silverware!

We gather for ‘appetizers’ and a chat on very comfy sofas by a huge 3 story fireplace, then collect around a huge wooden table for a dinner of Arctic Char, New Mexican Veggies that are so farm fresh they still smell of growing, and a knock your socks off Panacotta for Dessert. We provide the adult beverages of course.

Xan and I agree that the Panacotta is easily amoung the best we’ve ever had. It is that good. Wine flows, conversation covers many topics – including what it’s been like for Leslie and Mitch to host 150 people at a wedding in this space (crowded and noisy apparently).

All too soon it’s time for our final walk on the ranch, our final star gazing moments – and then it’s bed.

Tomorrow we will pack and leave – heading out in various directions towards our homes.

Carrie, Dee, Char and I are driving back to Albuquerque for Sunday night. We do some art shop visiting there – then dinner and bed.

Monday morning I have a 6:00 AM flight to Dallas, then on the Montreal and home.

I loved my Art Retreat. I met my objectives – do some painting, and get faster. I’d definitely go again – just to do a better job at capturing the strong, strong shadows of Santa Fe.

But I’m ready to get home. I miss my house, my bed, my bathtub, my husband! (And no – not in that order).

Signing off

The Soup Lady

Day 6 at the Art Retreat – Meow Wolf and an evening Art walk


After the rain and wind of yesterday, today dawns bright and sunny and warm. The amount of rain yesterday goes a long way towards explaining why there are so many eroded sections of land. When it rains in Santa Fe – it pours HARD. Great lighting and thunder effects too.

It’s Friday and to be honest – I only know because I looked at the calendar on my iphone. The time here has been distorted – periods of extreme focus while painting or visiting serious museums or Georgia O’Keeffe’s home – or times of relaxing and chatting. It seems that every day I learn something new about the BadAss ladies who are here on Retreat with me. I’m reminding of peeling onions – layers and layers…

Today is a ‘free’ day – Cat has chosen to spend the day at 1000 Waves – a local Spa (she’s getting a body massage, a foot massage, and enjoying the pools and hot tubs), and Dee, Carrie, Char and I have opted to visit Meow Woof. I can’t for the life of me remember what Xan and Tabetha have planned (painting I’m assuming), and of course Carol is flying home.

Meow Woof – this is an art installation that was created 8 years ago here in Santa Fe, and has now grown into a multi-city adventure. The original is housed in an abandoned bowling alley – offers free parking – and self-describes as an immersive Art/Fantasy/Mystery Adventure.

I’m so excited to go that I opt to arrive at opening time in order to explore by myself and see everything. I know that the Intrepid Traveler is nodding her head madly at this sentence. Yup – I need time to do a museum/art installation at my snail pace. I read everything.

Passing thru the ‘entrance’ portal where you are warned that bad behaviour will get you removed. To be sure you understand the importance of behaving properly – there’s a list of sins that are considered bad. You are also warned that cameras are in fact watching you!

But unlike most art installations – Touching is strongly encouraged – and in fact if you don’t touch – you won’t figure out what is going on. This is definitely a place where the occasional hand wash is a good idea.

Bottom line – touch but don’t run, don’t damage stuff, and don’t make it hard for others to enjoy.

Ok – past the entrance you walk into the front yard of a two story home – complete with a lovely front porch with rocker, a mail box, and curtains in the windows. It’s evening, it’s peaceful – maybe too peaceful – and the stars are out. To the left is a shed/workshop that begs to be investigated, but I decide to explore the house first.

Front entrance – check. Small office to the left, living room to the right, dining room straight ahead with the kitchen beyond. There’s also a lovely curving staircase leading up to the 2nd floor. The living room features a comfy sofa with an ipad showing videos released by one of the members of the family – a self styled life guru. There’s also a fireplace, a TV showing home videos of the family, and some marketing materials. There’s a diary, newspapers spread around, and other details that all create both an atmosphere and a very real physical presence.

Taking my time, I start reading all the available materials, watching the videos that show in time delay fashion the startling amazing success of the life style guru and then move sequentially thru his huge success, his rapid fall from grace, and his hope for the future that seems oddly focused on a young nephew. All of this sets up the mystery. Where has the family gone? Why is the house stuck in an old Bowling Alley? Why do other travelers pop in and out of odd places – angled doors hidden under the staircase, entrances thru the fireplace, normal looking closets that lead into other places? What is going on here?

And why is there a code for a safe I can’t see? Why are there videos of an old gentleman showing off his ‘Transducer’ and talking about a 500 year old Hamster?

I’m not going to ruin the story in this blog – that would be totally unfair – but trust me – if you aren’t dragging kids who just want to run thru touching things – this place has details upon details to explore! And the most detail – the slowest part – is inside the house.

Bathroom cabinets hide worm holes, Pictures on the walls swing open in odd ways, Clothes and jewelry fill baskets and drawers, floor creak and turn on videos. Even mirrors might suddenly come ‘alive’.

But the largest physical part is ‘beyond’ the house – in another dimension that has suddenly become linked with the house.

There are portals to those other dimension hidden everywhere – inside the fridge, inside the washing machine, beyond the workshop, past the clothes in the closet, behind a bookcase, inside a picture frame. Don’t take anything at face value…

My favorite spaces were the ones that encouraged me to dance – and there were three rooms that not everyone even found – let alone spent enough time in to understand what was going on.

The first was a laser harp set-up – floor to very high ceiling laser lights that when interrupted by moving your hands thru them (think plucking the strings) played music that made me dance around as the strings of light responded to my motions.

The second was a light show controlled by pressing on buttons scattered all around the room.

The third was a room with a desk. If you sat at the desk, a light/sound video began to play – explaining the story, why things were as they were and what had happened. I’m going to guess that I might have been one of the few folks that sat thru the entire explanation! At least I never saw anyone else sitting there in the 4-5 hours I was in the exhibit.

Other rooms feature a futuristic travel agent explaining the advantages of various vacation destinations… And you can even Visit those destinations! The workshop is also a place for exploration, as is the Cake and Candy rooms, the Black and White Room, and even just the walkways that connect the levels and the rooms.

Thank goodness there are places to sit and rest and watch. These tired legs needed those breaks from the action.

In the marketing they say – over 75 rooms – and I believe them. By about 2:00 I thought I’d visited everything, only to finally bump into Carrie, Char and Dee! And then together we found even more rooms.

I particularly liked sitting in the bus that has been thrust between dimensions – resulting in the front of the bus pointing towards the sky with the driver’s seat 25’ over your head- and the ‘passenger seat’ in the bus being on the ground floor sharply leaning backwards to complete the illusion – and the feeling of flying thru space.

Bottom line – I loved Meow Woof! What a smashing idea.

Around 5:00 we head out to rejoin the rest of our fellow ‘retreaters’. We first went to Canyon Road – very upscale art galleries to visit – some closed, some open – all very very expensive. Then we moved on to downtown Santa Fe where they were having a fiesta. It was fun walking around, but too noisy for most of us and very crowded. So we opted to try a New Mexico ‘Mexican’ Restaurant where we ate a lovely slow and pleasantly quiet dinner.

Back to the ranch – and you know who went gratefully to bed! I do love my room at the ranch – it’s my own personal space – and after all the intensity of the day – just the perfect place to relax. So ice cream and down time and bed.

Signing off

Leslie

Day 5 at an Art Retreat – Everyone needs time to just PAINT!


Today is our rest day – aka – focus on painting!

And it’s a break day that is well deserved. Physically I’m fine, but emotionally – Georgia O’Keeffe is overwhelming. So much to process in this old brain.

So we voted to spend the day hanging out here. Given the weather report – that turns out to be the very best idea. Around 4:00 PM it is supposed to get very very windy and rainy. So despite the beautifully sunny weather outside – we are hanging here at the Ranch.

Carrie makes scrambled eggs for the group for breakfast, and Dee champions the coffee pot.

I finished one of my paintings – and then work on doing some more greeting cards. This is a fun activity – I love picking a saying for inside, and then trying to imagine art for the outside of the card that fits… It’s a challenge. But after an hour – I want to focus more on doing what I came here to do – larger paintings!

I had taken a photo of a ladder leaning up against the wall of Georgia O’Keeffe’s home in Abiquiu – and the shadow was simply stunning – so I decided to paint that.

Dee helped me with my colors – she had a paint called ‘Terra Cotta’ – which when you add a bit of white and yellow looks like sunlit Adobe – and without the white – represents the darkness of Adobe in Shadow.

My fastest painting ever – it just came together! So check it out. I love the drama of it – and I adore the fact that it was FAST!

I don’t know if I’ve improved that dramatically – or this photo just rang a bell – or if having Dee help me with the color choices made it so much easier – but it was fast. And I love it.

Today is Carol’s last day – she has to get home for a funeral – and in true Tabetha fashion – is going to be doing a presentation on her Artist voyage for us tonight. I’m rather keen to hear how that goes. But meanwhile – I want to give her something to take home.

So after finishing my ‘Ladder to the sky’, I pick up some rocks from around the Ranch – and start painting them. Most come from a trash heap I found, some came from underneath plants – and some just jumped into my hands. I like rocks that call out to be painted – and all of these were obviously keen to be part of my Artistic Adventure. Each rock gets a layer of white, then I paint Santa Fe Art Retreat ‘24 with all our names – Tabetha, Carol, Dee, Cat, Char, Carrie, Leslie, Xan. And yes – to some I added a butterfly.

I make enough to give one to everyone – plus one for Leslie and Mitch (our hosts), and one more to hide somewhere on the Ranch – like an Easter Egg for other guests to find.

Dinner is another one of the delicious vegetarian offerings (with a Gluten Free section for Carol and a Dairy free section for Dee). For desert – my favorite – Ice Cream of course.

Then Carol does her presentation. She has been painting for years – took a bit of a time off because that happens – and is back at it hard as things have started to settle down in other parts of her life. That is a common back-story for most of us – Husbands, Divorces, Sick Kids – Emotional upheaval for which coming back to the focus of Art helps us cope.

I do like what Carol has done – particularly her Exploding Metal Grids in the windows. She sees things so differently – and isn’t afraid to capture her unique vision in paint.

I truly wish her the very best – she is a wonderful person to have gotten to know. I wonder which (if any) of these ladies I will ever meet again.

After the Artist show and tell, we sit down to chat and discover a card game hidden in the pile under the table. It’s called A Horrid Card Game – and the idea is very similar to Apples to Apples with a sexual bent! Everyone gets 5 or 10 cards – and one person – the Card Czar – gets a black card. It’s a fill-in the blank question to which each of us submits one of our cards. Then the Card Czar reads the entire thing – and some of these get us howling with laughter! Since Funniest gets the point – laughing is in fact the point of the game. It is really hard to think negatively when you are laughing so hard it hurts.

We laugh and laugh – then despite Dee’s attempt to get us to change games to Apples to Apples – I say good night. I definitely need my beauty sleep.

Another Art Retreat Day done!

Signing off – The Soup Lady