Category Archives: $$ ($15-$50)

More than $15 per person, less than $50. Your definite mixed bag

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 1


Today starts off bright and early! 6:00 AM and the sun is just starting to rise. As asked – we gather at the reception area of the resort, are greeted by Abi, and load up our personal 4×4 Jeep.

The lovely driver will be with us for the next 3 days – so today is a ‘getting used to the tourists’ day for him and ‘getting comfy with our cameras’ for us.e

Our transport is an open air jeep with three rows of 2 seats each. First row is for the driver on the right side, and there is a passenger seat on the left.

Helmut opts for the middle seat – behind the driver on the right – Andrea wants to sit in the back next to Abi, and the passenger seat is reserved for the park employee who is tasked with keeping us safe.

He is carrying a rifle. I’d feel a lot safer if the rifle weren’t rusted, and looks like it dates back to the days of British control of India. But Abi explains that the guard is just there to fire the gun if an animal attacks – not to actually hit the animal. The noise will scare them off.

We’re talking tigers and leopards and Rhinosaurs here.. and Elephants. There is no roof to our 4×4 jeep – and as our driver says – it’s seen better days. Lots better. Maybe better years. Maybe 30 years…

But we are not here to worry about the luxury of our travel – we’re here to see animals.

As with Safari’s I’ve taken in Africa – you get up early, return for breakfast/brunch, rest for a few hours, then go out again in the evening – and that’s the plan here as well.

Our ‘retreat’ is just around the corner from the entrance to the Park, and at 6:00 there’s no traffic. So we zip out, and are quickly at the entrance.

Our fees have been pre-paid, so we are simply waved in – and Abi directs the driver as to which path to take. The roads in the park (and you aren’t allowed to drive off road like we did in Kenya) are poorly maintained and very rutted – so I have to brace my knee against the metal door frame. It’s actually not uncomfortable. But to take photos – I generally need to stand on the seat – which means taking off my shoes!

Today we spent quite some time taking pictures of monkeys – they aren’t spoiled brats like the ones in Bali who will attack you – these guys are simply adorable. Doing their things in a monkey way. I got some great shots.

We also passed a very touristy Elephant Ride activity – but in the morning haze – the pictures looks awesome.

Abi is a bird fiend – and we stop time and time again for him to identify and get us to see (trust me – the latter was the hard part) – bird after bird after bird.

We wind up actually in Butan. There is a National Park in Butan that shares a long border but only one entrance with the Manas National Park. We pose for pictures at the border, but can’t cross – there’s a lot of paper work involved for non- Indians.

Eventually it’s home for lunch and a break – then back on the road again. This time we score an Elephant family (Mom, Dad, Junior) who pose for pictures for at least an hour. We also take a photo of a lovely butterfly, some other birds, and then end up at sunset in a grassland area with a stunning sky and wonderful trees. I go snap happy!

Then we spot a guard tower (these are all over the park – and free to climb) – and see a herd of Guar headed our way. Yup – they have two kinds of buffalo here in the Manas Park. These giants have white socks on all 4 legs, and smaller horns then the true buffalo of India. Their horns curl out and up and they are generally found in herds.

They move closer and closer until they are just maybe 30 feet away. Our guard is not happy that they are this close – but clearly we have parked the Jeep where they think they should be walking. We take pictures – say good bye to the guard house and the Guar – and head home.

The rutted roads of the Park taken at speed feel like those exercise machines that jiggled you to take off wait – and it’s about 40 minutes in the dark to the park gate. My watch asks if I want to record my outdoor walk!

An early night. Can you believe it.

I’m so happy I can’t stand it.

For dinner I order Onion Pakora – and a Ginger Soup. Abi thinks I’m starving myself – so under pressure I add Butter Chicken and Rice.

We have WAY too much food. The Butter Chicken goes back to the kitchen to keep for dinner the next night – and I gleefully scarf down the best onion Pakoras I’ve ever eaten.

It’s bed time – I’m done. I transfer my pictures to my ipad, plug in my batteries to charge.. and drop.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Emirates First Class KICKS ASS!


I have clearly been double blessed – when I booked this trip – I knew I would need to have a lay flat bed in order to sleep. 36 hours of travel is no joke.

But I was clearly unaware of what Emirates First Class is really, really like.

I left you at the Emirates First Class Lounge – Sushi Bar, tons of pastry options – service upon service. I just glazed in wonder, enjoyed the feel of luxury (and those that know me know that I do enjoy the feel of over the top luxury.. ) and gathered my stuff to find my friends.

Helmut and Andrea were to meet me at Gate B12 – where the flight for Kolkata would be departing, and I knew they’d wonder if I was delayed. In hindsight – taking some ‘take-out’ for them would have been the best plan – but nope – I didn’t think about that. Next time, more smarter!

I got just a bit lost trying to get out of the lounge, past the insanely huge Business class Emirates lounge, and managed to end up in a dead end. This is a HUGE airport. Ok – no problem. I’ll backtrack – return to the First Class lounge and start again. This time I do better – and find the escalator down before walking the length of that HUGE Business Lounge. I finally get to Gate B12 and it’s packed – wall to wall, ceiling to floor – people. Every chair is taken – and the folks waiting are now flooding past the boundaries of the gate and flowing to both side gates.

Ok – I’ll just go slowly. I walk past the mobs – noting the huge group of folks – men and women, mostly older – dressed in white and wearing Name tags. Clearly a group of some kind.. I did ask – and they are pilgrims returning from Mecca. Right – this is the flight to India!

I round a corner – and there’s Helmut – engrossed in his cell phone – I cough gently in my absolutely horrid German – say – do you speak German? He looks up curiously – recognizes me and Smiles broadly! Since he is still recovering from breaking his hip and left leg in multiple places – I insist he stay down and give him a big hug.

We chat a bit longer, they had just arrived (whew – timing perfect) – and then Andrea shows up. I realize that the crowd is getting thinner – and we mossy over to Gate B12. As First Class – I have a private check-in counter – but then everyone regroups downstairs in a larger waiting area. I save seats for Helmut and Andrea, they arrive – we chat – and then they start boarding the flight. I say goodbye – see you in Kolkata!

There are two jet-ways – one for First and Business Class passengers – one for the great unwashed. As per the gal in the Exotic Marigold Hotel, I get to turn left.

I wait while the folks in front of me in line get seated, and present myself at the entrance to the plane – and hand my ticket to the host on duty. He smiles broadly at me – welcomes me – and then leaves his post to walk me to my Suite.

Suite? Are you kidding me? I have a Suite? With a double doors and everything!

OMG

I’m repeating that – OMG.

This is so over the top even I’m amazed. It’s like that scene in Crazy Rich Asians when they are brought to their suite on the plane – and the gal jokes – these PJs are better than the ones I own at home.

And dutifully Michael – my new best friend and the host – asks my size and presents me with PJ’s.

The seat is a leather wonder with buttons and gizmos aplenty – there is a pop=up personal bar with water selections, there is a vanity space with what is described to me as lavender spray to make sure I sleep well among other delights. There is a goodie basket with snacks including 75% Dark Chocolate bars. There are a selection of seasoned nuts in little glass jars, there is a pillow – a MATTRESS – and of course a duvet.

Michael presents me with the menu – takes my order for breakfast – and then we discuss my alcohol options. I’m going for the Sauterne. Then I explains that I’m beyond exhausted and really just want to sleep. Can I delay breakfast until we are close to arriving in Kolkata. Of course my wish is his command – but he insists on showing off his skill at pouring Arabic coffee – which I politely taste and then get ready for take-off.

Once off the ground – I ask to have the bed made – and am blown away – again! The bed is a narrow strip of non-soft material barely wide enough for my hips – it’s a full sized twin – with a cozy mattress – that lovely duvet, a soft pillow – and slippers! And an eye mask of course.

I nestle down for the best sleep I’ve ever had on an airplane – and am woken by a gentle nap on the door. My suite has a door! Right. I remember that!

They serve me a lovely breakfast – shower me with more gifts – will this never stop – and then tell me to prep for landing.

To leave the plane with all my gifts – they give me a shopping bag to put stuff in, explaining that it’s really great quality and worth keeping. Gifts include a full size bottle of Bvlgari Perfume, too numerous to spell out other signature gifts, a lovely gold tote to hold all of them, neatly sized to fit into my carry bag – plus gifts of more sweets in honor of Duvali – the Hindu Festival of lights. My shopping bag is so heavy – I’m worried about getting stopped when I board the next flight!

I have been seriously spoiled. It will be horrid to have to tolerate the garbage that Air Canada calls First Class.

Heading off to find Helmut and Andrea – our real adventure is just beginning!

Signing off – The over-the top, that’s amazing – incredibly spoiled – Soup Lady!

*** Stop the Presses ***


OMG – there’s an even MORE beautiful first class lounge!

The Dubai airport is divided into three interconnected buildings – reasonably called A, B, And C. Very creative, right?

Anyway – I was in C – stayed and ate in the first class lounge there. Then following the directions of the lovely host of the lounge – made my slow way to B concourse – and the B version of the first class Emirates Lounge.

It’s about 10 times the size of the one I was in – has a Pizza oven section, a SPA! (You have to be kidding me), Showers, and – this really stopped me – A Sushi Bar with Sushi Chefs. Plus a standard for the Emirates huge buffet with various dishes, and yet again another dessert selection.

All the folks cooking sport tall, tall, tall Toque Blanche – or white hats. And one section of the lounge actually lets you walk past the kitchens – all stainless, all spotless clean at almost midnight – and with the staff cheerfully saying good night to each other.

The lounge also has fountains at the entrance. Huge fountains. Check out my picture – clearly it’s the Soup Lady on the Prowl!

The Soup Lady after 30 hours of travel – in the First Class Lounge Dubai

And here’s something I didn’t mention earlier – there are at least 2 five star hotels IN the airport. I mean the front desks are right off Concourse C and B – and the hotel rooms overlook the Concourse. I’m reminded of those huge 5,000+ passenger cruise ships where some folks pick the rooms looking over the center part of the ship. Who wants to see water when on a cruise ship anyway?

The hotels are designed to look different from the concourse architecture – one featuring Moroccan influenced arches, the other a unique facade. Beautiful. And my walk from C to B was filled with more neon flashing. And another two Duty Free Shops.

You have GOT to be kidding me.

And the ladies bathroom have sections for folks to wash their feet before services. That is definitely not something I’ve ever seen in North America.

This time – I’m really signing off.

Next stop Kalkata, India – which if all goes to plan will consist of us being picked up at the airport and driven to another airport to fly to another city to drive to our first Safari Park!

Yes – I’m exhausted just typing all that.

The Soup Lady

Emirates First Class Lounge in Dubai


I have died and gone to heaven! This place is insanely beautiful – not just the lounge which puts many of the fancy restaurants I’ve enjoyed over the years to shame – but the airport here in Dubai itself is worth seeing to believe!

I’m reminded of the line from the Movie “Crazy Rich Aliens” when they arrive in Singapore and the heroine quips – all JFK has is Salmonella and Despair.

This airport definitely rivals the one in Bali for sheer beauty. There are huge – like 60’ high – Palm trees growing inside the atrium of the Airport Walkways.

And there is the largest Duty-free shop I’ve ever seen. Plus more neon than in some areas of Tokyo. (Those of you who have been to Tokyo know what area I’m talking about…)

So how did a 76 year old traveling grannie – who admittedly tends to travel on the cheap side – end up sitting in this lovely lounge enjoying – get this – a Wagu Burger and fresh French fries?

Let’s start at the beginning – Many years ago we did a ‘cheap’ safari in Africa which emphasized camping outdoors in the game parks. I didn’t see nearly as many animals as I’d have liked – but we made good friends with a couple from Bavaria! And we’ve stayed friends over the years.

Our Bavarian Mates come from Munich – and over the years have teased us with their enthusiasm for wild and crazy travel. They are also very good friends!

So in May 2024 – when they told us they had planned a trip to India (a Safari to see Tigers, Red Pandas, and Rhinoceros) – I asked if I could tag along. Victor wasn’t the least bit interested – but I was totally determined to take on this unique challenge. Consider – at 76 – how many more times will I be willing/able to take on a 36 hr air flight – do homestays in a country that requires a lot of vaccines – and is often described as noisy and crowded and smelly.

And if your next thought is why would I want to – you are in the same mind as my husband! Even the Intrepid Traveler has no interest.

So here I am – part way thru my 36 hour flight to Kolkata. My Bavarian friends are also flying into Dubai from Munich – so we will meet at the gate to the Emirates flight to Kolkata.

Now you know why I’m sitting and waiting – but not why I’m doing it first class.

I have only flown first class once before in my life – and it was under similar circumstances. Neither Victor nor The Intrepid Traveler was coming along, I was joining friends in Bali – and the flight was in the 36 hr range. I figured the difference in price between economy and first class was just $20 an hour – and I was so WORTH it!

The same is true this time. The differential wasn’t that great – not when you thought of it per hour – and because I was going to have 2 long waits in airports (Toronto and Dubai) – Going first class sounded more than reasonable. It sounded like a deal!

The flight from Toronto to Dubai was on Air Canada – and while I enjoyed the service and the lay flat beds – I wouldn’t rate the experience as 5 star. The ‘Maple Leaf Lounge’ in the Toronto airport had mediocre food at best – my ‘dinner’ was Nachos with Pico de Gallo and shredded cold cheddar. It was food. And I ate it. The only desert options were cookies – chocolate chocolate chip and white chocolate with Macadamia nuts. They were my favorite part of the meal.

Food even in first class wasn’t that good either, I’m sorry to report. Waste of calories to be honest. I ate what I had to be sure my stomach wasn’t growling, but it was hardly memorable. Or maybe it was truly memorable in how deplorable it was.

Highlights – the fresh oranges in the fruit basket available near the service area. Those were indeed yummy. And the big TV to watch movies was quite a nice touch. But storage was non-existent, and because I’m so short – reaching the Touch Screen TV to change movies wasn’t easy. At least the headphones they gave us were noise cancelling. That was a nice touch.

On the other hand – the Emirates Lounges here in the Dubai Airport – and I visited two – were awesomely beautiful. The first one was the business class version – described by the hostess as smaller than the similar one in the B terminal. I think I need to check out that one – I thought the one I was in was huge. There was a vast display of food options – cold, hot, room temperature, an ice cream trolley with 8 different flavours and 4 types of cones, an entire desert display, and around a corner – another section with Indian specialities like Samosas.

A full pour it yourself Bar – plus bottles of several different wines were available.

I was just settled into the Business class Lounge when the hostess came up to tell me I was in the wrong place. I should be in the much much nicer First class lounge. And she helped me gather my things and walked me across the concourse.

Wow – This lounge is truly special – and I don’t blame her for saying – it was much nicer. It’s smaller, with a specific dining area – with get this – service! And the food is prepared to order! Wow. In an airport lounge. And the menu goes on and on for several pages. So many choices.

I opted for the Wagu Burger because I know I won’t seeing Beef for the next two weeks. Get it while I can I figure! And it was delicious. A huge portion I couldn’t finish – although I gave it my best effort. Easily the tastiest food I’ve had since leaving home!

Time for desert – there’s a lovely desert selection – and of course Ice cream. I’m having macaroons – and Pistachio Ice Cream.

Then it’s on to my gate, my friends (I hope), and my flight to Kolkata!

Signing off to gather and walk on – The Soup Lady

Days 8 and 9 – the journey Home


Sunday morning we must all say good-bye – take our last pictures of the Ranch – and start the drive back to Albuquerque and from there home.

All goes well. We return my rental car, (an incredible bargain of $107 US for 7 days rental) and jump into Carrie’s car and drive into Old Albuquerque- it’s a large area around a beautiful square that features restaurants and art shops and junk emporiums. Something for everyone.

We grab lunch at “The Old Time Cafe” – best bear claw ever – then wander from shop to shop. Eventually the heat gets to us and we decide to head back to the hotel for a nap before dinner.

Dinner at Applebee’s is as expected – but I enjoyed my rib steak (oh meat, how much I’ve missed you) and ate every dribble.

Back to the hotel – I say good night to my new friends and head off to bed.

My flight is at 6:00 AM and that means up at 3:00 AM to catch the 3:30 shuttle to the airport. I know – probably a bit of overkill – but I hate having to rush thru these things.

Needless to say – I don’t sleep.

Finally it’s 3:00 – I’m up, I’m dressed, I’m downstairs. The shuttle arrives – no issues – next stop the airport.

Check in, pass security – boring wait for the plane to Dallas to board – fly to Dallas, another long drag to the next gate. Just FYI – Dallas is a huge airport. Again nothing exciting to report – until I get a call from my husband.

He’s got a cold and doesn’t feel great – should he meet me at the airport, or do I take a taxi home?

I ask – did you get a COVID test. He says – not yet – on it.

He has COVID. I’m Not going home. I can’t risk getting sick. He has maybe a tough day – I get a tough month! So NO WAY am I going home.

Bummer.

What to do, what to do. A hotel say is so pricy – but I do have friends. I call the Intrepid traveler – and she immediately invites me to stay with her until Victor tests Negative.

Thank goodness for FRIENDS!

So I arrive in Montreal, I take a taxi to our house, my husband wears a mask, we stay 10’ apart and chat a bit – then I grab the car and drive to my friends home.

Crazy ending to a crazy adventure right?

It’s now 3 days later – Victor is feeling fine and testing negative and I’m home. Finally.

I’m so glad I’m home – I could kiss the floors but I think I’m just going to hug my husband and my bed!

End of an exciting adventure.. I’m not ready today for any more travel. I need at least 2 days off!

Signing off until my next adventure (how does a safari in India sound?)

The Soup Lady

Day 7 at an Art Retreat – it’s Fiesta Time


It’s our last day on retreat – the plan is spend the day finishing our art work, then meet at 4:00 for an art show and tell featuring – US!

This evening we’ve been invited over to the barn for a Fiesta prepared by our hosts… sounds yummy for sure.

The other night we were trying to take pictures of a lovely Cresent Moon in the oh so starry sky – and Dee managed to capture a picture of an alien. This is New Mexico of course – so that shouldn’t be so surprising – but today Carrie and I wanted to explore the area to see if we can figure out what she actually photographed.

No dice… Maybe it was an Alien? We are quite close to Los Alamos.

After our frustrating search of the grounds, I finish my rocks – enough for everyone to take one home – plus 2 extra. But guess who I forgot? Myself! So I’ll have to make my own memory rock when I get back to Montreal. Fortunately I’ve written down all the names often enough that I’m sure to remember them!

Cat, Carrie, Char, Carol, Dee, Leslie, Tabetha, Xan – 8 BadAss ladies – 8 wannabe Artists for sure!

I start one more painting – a huge in your face Sunflower that should end up interesting but has no chance of getting done today. But I do get a decent start.

Tabetha invites each of us to a one on one chat about our experience here at the retreat. She videos us talking about our experience, and with our permission might use these in a presentation. She’s very passionate about what she does – and I’m very glad I had this time to get to know her. I feel better about my future as an artist – more capable of continuing the exploration.

And – Oh so quickly it’s time for the Art Show. We carefully set up our personal displays in the ‘common’ room – and then get changed in preparation for a party night.

It’s quite a surprise to see all the pieces gathered in one place. Some of us are more experienced than others – I hadn’t realized that both Carrie and Char have only been painting for 9 months. I always think of myself as the rawest beginner at just over a year – and clearly it’s not true!

8 minds see the same wall quite differently – and we even took a photo of all of our paintings of the Adobe wall with the blue bench lined up. My version didn’t even include the bench! And yes I’ve attached the picture of our pictures – but you can only see it by hoping over to the main page of the blog. Just open a browser and go to MontrealMadame.com. Let me know what you think!

Some folks certainly get more ‘done’ than others. Cat and Xan were the most prolific – but I didn’t do too badly – and the rocks were definitely a hit. That felt great.

After our show and tell – which included stories about our history and reasons for painting – we gather in the ‘barn’ for our party.

This is the first time I’ve seen where our hosts – Leslie and Mitch – live. And it is amazing. They have transformed the barn into a massive kitchen – with very few drawers. So unlike Georgia O’Keeffe who hid all her plates in the walls, our hosts have everything on display – including all the silverware!

We gather for ‘appetizers’ and a chat on very comfy sofas by a huge 3 story fireplace, then collect around a huge wooden table for a dinner of Arctic Char, New Mexican Veggies that are so farm fresh they still smell of growing, and a knock your socks off Panacotta for Dessert. We provide the adult beverages of course.

Xan and I agree that the Panacotta is easily amoung the best we’ve ever had. It is that good. Wine flows, conversation covers many topics – including what it’s been like for Leslie and Mitch to host 150 people at a wedding in this space (crowded and noisy apparently).

All too soon it’s time for our final walk on the ranch, our final star gazing moments – and then it’s bed.

Tomorrow we will pack and leave – heading out in various directions towards our homes.

Carrie, Dee, Char and I are driving back to Albuquerque for Sunday night. We do some art shop visiting there – then dinner and bed.

Monday morning I have a 6:00 AM flight to Dallas, then on the Montreal and home.

I loved my Art Retreat. I met my objectives – do some painting, and get faster. I’d definitely go again – just to do a better job at capturing the strong, strong shadows of Santa Fe.

But I’m ready to get home. I miss my house, my bed, my bathtub, my husband! (And no – not in that order).

Signing off

The Soup Lady

Day 4 at an Art Retreat – Ghost Ranch and Abiquiú


Getting to know a truly BadAss Woman!

Today we continue our insanely intense scrutiny of the work of Georgia O’Keeffe with a visit to her homes here in New Mexico.

But first it’s ’hello sunshine’, Yoga, Breakfast, and our lesson of the day – adding 3D to a flat shape. Texture, shading, shadows, highlights – all will make something flat appear round, spherical, diamond shape, detracted from the other surfaces.

After class we head out to Abiquiu – where Georgia O’Keeffe had her winter/spring home. Her summer/fall home is just a few miles away at Ghost Ranch – but the challenge for her was the isolation of Ghost Ranch. She feared being alone for the winter in such a deserted location – and I don’t blame her. When we did the drive from Abiquiu to Ghost Ranch – I was stunned by the drastic descent we made! Ghost Ranch is in bottom land. Towering around it on 3 sides are red stone cliffs reminiscent of Bryce Canyon. It’s Glorious – but not where you want to be isolated.

As per our brilliant guide – Frank – there was just a dirt road from Ghost Ranch back to Santa Fe in the 1940’s – and she had a driver. They went up a hill into the town of Abiquiu – and Georgia spotted a ruined adobe home on her left. Asking the driver to stop – she got out and explored – the view was astounding! Truly awe inspiring. She was determined to buy the ruins and to renovate them – but it took years of negotiation to get that to happen. Meanwhile she managed to buy a small plot of land inside of Ghost Ranch, and made that into her home – but her real love was to get that ruin in Abiquiu.

Eventually she managed the feat – and then her husband died. She returned to NYC to deal with the aftermath of that while her friend championed the renovation of the ruin into the home we visited.

Why was this particular site so special? Not only did it have an amazing view that could not be taken away – it had water rights. Dating from the 1700’s – it got water for two hours once a week.

Renovation done – she moved into her home in 1949.

It’s hard to imaging how critical that was in those days in this spot – but with water she could create a garden and a small orchard. Eventually she was able to grow and preserve enough food to feed herself year round – leaving only diary and meat to be purchased.

For a woman who left an estate of over $77 Million Dollars – she lived surprisingly frugally. But her taste was extradinordinary.

She only acquired things that spoke to her – and she loved modern furnishing – as our guide quipped – nope – these are not from IKEA!

Butterfly chairs, A dinning table of folded Plywood, Eames Chairs, Womb Chair, Womb Ottoman, Barcelona Table, clothes from Marimekko, and of course her paintings. Huge floor to ceiling windows – unique in an Adobe structure – graced every room. And there were skylights!

It was a home crafted to foster inspiration, contemplation, and artistic innovation.

She explained that moving her art around in the home at least seasonally helped her to see each painting anew.

The outside color palette dictated the inside palette – nowhere more evident than in the living room where she spent every evening enjoying music with only her dogs for company.

When Georgia decided in 1984 at age 96 that she needed to move to Santa Fe to be closer to medical help if needed – she intended to return. And everything was left exactly as it was on that day.

Walking thru the rooms felt like being part of her life, her energy, her determination, her artistic vision.

A humbling experience.

The home offers several ‘roofless’ courtyards – and across one of these is her studio and bedroom. The studio is of course the largest space in the home – most open, most airy, most windows, most view.

Our guide tells us that towards the end she had an aide living in this room so that she could get help as needed. She lost all vision out of the center of her eyes – and could only see out of the edges. So if she looked at you sideways – it was because she thought you were interesting, and worth really seeing!

Her bedroom was accessed thru the bathroom – maybe not my favorite layout – but clearly it worked for her. Her closet contains only a few of her favorite dresses – partly for display, partly for preservation. As per Frank, the trust rotates items in and out to keep them all well protected.

From the closet – you are in her bedroom – and the huge windows at the corner opposite the bed go a long way towards explaining why she picked this ruin to restore, with this view. Stunning.

She would start every day by getting up before dawn, making her coffee (in a ceremony worthy of green tea), and return to sit on the edge of the bed with her dogs, awaiting dawn.

I want that so bad!

Tour over, we returned to the welcome center, enjoyed a marvellous lunch – and recalled a few of her favorite sayings:

Painting is breaking up a flat surface in a beautiful way

Simplicity is the result of profound thought

Take Time to Look

Our next stop is Ghost Ranch – where Georgia spent her Summer/Fall months. This was a very popular for the period Ranch that hosted many famous folks (including Ansel Adams, Charles Lindbergh and John Wayne).

While the drive to and from was stunning – the visit was rather a disappointment after the glory of her home in Abiquiu. The home she lived in while at the ranch is off limits – even for a drive-by, and as a group we were so exhausted that walking in the heat didn’t seem logical. So we snapped a few shots – and checked out a log cabin that’s been used in City Slickers and the Ballad of Buster Scruggs.

Drive home, dinner, chat, and a bit more painting – I learned how to make greeting cards! Then bed.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Day 2 at an Art Retreat


A glorious sunrise is peaking thru the window – and I’m glad to see it. The sky here on the ranch near Santa Fe is a huge blue bowl hung upside down over a landscape that is clearly NOT Montreal.

Dead trees, scrub brush, and even the occasional succulent are visible out my window – nothing man-made in view if you don’t look at the first 10 yards. And right now (almost 7:00 AM) there is a decidedly pinkish hue to the sky.

Good Morning World!

I start the day with Yoga, then head into the ‘common’ room for breakfast. There are lots of options – but this is a farming ranch so there are farm fresh eggs. You can easily imagine that the chickens just finished contributing their part – and I opt for just simple fried eggs with a slice of a Simolina Bread the host made yesterday. Yummy.

We sit around the outdoor stone table and chat. Most of my fellow artists (that gives me goose bumps..) had a former life as Councillors – and the conversation turns to the Myers Briggs Evaluation scale.

Nope – I didn’t know what that was either – Dee had to explain. She also explained that she, Carrie and Char are trained Soul Councillors – and her last job before retiring was as a Professional Career Advisor. Carrie – the highest trained of the group – had been working with Trauma Patients who were considered suicide risks – but gave that up when it started effecting her personally.

Back to Myers Briggs – apparently there are 4 different characteristics that make up the scale. Introvert/Extrovert, Concrete/Intuitive, Thinker/Feeler, and Perceiver/Judger. Dee described each one in detail, and she has promised to let me know where I’m at on these scales – But after her explaining what they mean – I’m going to bet I’m an Extrovert/Concrete/Thinker/Perceiver. But we shall see – and I promise to report back!

Finally Tabatha calls us to order for a review of the Retreat Rules! That’s cool – there are Rules in a Retreat. Sounds a bit like Rules in a Gun Fight for those with an interest in old movies.

And yes – I wrote them down.

  1. Relax, No Stress, Have Fun
  2. There’s a quiet zone. No talking to the folks there until they are ready to re-join the group. We choose a table with 4 chairs away from the common area. I wonder if I’ll opt to use it – or just excuse myself and hide in my room. I’m guessing – hide in my room.
  3. Respect – No Judgement. Don’t let your uninvited Critic rule your feelings – put him/her/they into the passenger seat – and let them know you are driving this car.
  4. You are responsible for your own experience. If you are feeling lonely, overwhelmed, whatever – TELL Someone. Don’t assume that the group is ignoring you, judging you, etc. That’s your inner critic talking.
  5. Honor the best in each other and in yourself.
  6. Honest critique is tough – leave it to Tabatha. Your job is to go – you Rock!
  7. Practice Positive Feedback – Ask “what do you like best about what you’ve done” – and then support their opinion!
  8. Be gentle with your own inner artist
  9. Look out for each other

Whew – those are interesting rules, eh? I love the idea of putting the inner critic in their own seat in the bus. I’m prone to letting my inner critic be a bit too loud. So I’m going to work hard on saying to my inner critic – thanks, but I’ll work this out on my own.

Next we have our first ‘class’ – where we discuss Marks and Lines. Art starts by making a mark. And you can get that process started by making lines – even doodles are art.

Tabatha explains that before we arrived here we were in the Gathering Phase – putting the pieces we’d need together. Now we are beginning the Creation Phase – where the world is full of options – and we start to narrow our focus.

To this end, we as a group decide what our first painting focus will be – and we choose an area around a lovely adobe wall with a very bright blue chair and very bright blue windows to paint from different positions. Set-up is slow. I’ve never used my easel before, and I have to set-out the paint colors I’m going to use. Just thinking about creating a color for Adobe is a challenge. I muddle thru – and suddenly – There’s a break for lunch – then back to work.

Painting – just FYI – is hard work. And I’m slow. I did get the first paint layer done by Lunch time – then went back to work until it gets too dark to see my canvas clearly. We will get more time tomorrow. Xan deems her work done – Dee says her work has only 2 colors – and I’m thinking – oh dear – there’s a lot of detail to that blue chair!

We change for dinner (you don’t paint in something you care about staying clean – even if you are a ‘clean’ painter) – and drive into Santa Fe proper. Tabatha has reserved a table for 8 at The Shed – yummy New Mexico Mexican – and I splurge and have 14 of the best shrimp ever. Oh Yum.

We return to the ranch after a quick stop at grocery store to do our evening activity – a group painting.

There are 9 Canvas board squares – and Tabatha has sketched limbs on the squares. The limbs extend from one square to the next – and our job is to paint our square, keeping the parts of the limbs that leave our square in position to match the limbs in the squares that will border ours. If you’ve ever done a model railroad layout = you’ll immediately get the idea.

We start to work. It’s a lot of fun, and a lot of sharing. The group at the top of the table take a more collaborative approach – but I decide to treat my canvas as a flat rock with limbs. It ends up covered in Butterflies hiding behind the limbs Tabatha drew. The Butterflies are drawn with Metallic paints – Gold, and Silver, and Blue, and Magenta – and yes – even Pink.

Hours later (time definitely flies when you are doing art), we regroup by putting our squares into their correct positions in the larger piece. The result is rather cool. 8 unique paintings that interlock! My inner critic suggests that maybe we should have all had more direction – but I tell it to shut up!

It’s definitely bedtime – so we clear up the mess we’ve caused – told ya that painting is NOT a clean sport, wish each other good-night and head off to bed.

Tomorrow we go to the Georgia O’Keefe Museum. I’m excited.

Signing off

The Soup Lady

Day 1 at an Artist Retreat


I’m at a ranch near Santa Fe, New Mexico with a group of 7 other women on an art retreat.

For me – That is one truly wierd sentence. For starters – I can’t remember ever being with a group of only women before in my life. I’ve been just 2 or 3 with just women – when my sisters and I travel together without our sig others – and when I travel with the Intrepid Traveler – but 8 women. Just Women. First time.

Point 2 – It’s a ‘Art Retreat’. I knew I wanted to do a yoga retreat, and I’ve definitely done Bridge regionals and nationals – which I suppose are rather ‘retreat like’ in that you focus on one activity – but Art. Really? Nothing but Art? I mean – I love doing Art – but just Art… maybe that’s why I’m blogging – a retreat from an Art Retreat.

Am I over thinking this?

Yesterday was my travel day. I woke at 3:00 AM in a hotel near the Toronto Airport having eaten a lovely dinner the night before with my husband. We said our good-byes before bed – knowing that I had to be at the airport so very early it wasn’t a good plan to wake him up.

So – I’m up, I didn’t do my Yoga – hard to do that without disturbing my husband, and got dressed in the dark. I had mostly prepared the night before – so it went quickly – and I’m pretty sure I didn’t forget anything.

The trip to the airport in the shuttle was painless – but surprisingly crowded. Lots of airline crew starting their days – and a few other travellers. My fellow voyagers are clearly Japanese heading home. Neatly dressed, with their suitcases carefully over-wrapped in flashy cover-ups to make them easy to spot on the carrousels. Organized travellers. In comparison I feel like a flake – a very senior hippy heading out to see the world.

My ‘Safari bag’ suitcase is a hold-over from our first trip to Africa. Soft sided, but with wheels, it’s easy to over fill, and has no structure. So I’ve put in all my paints and art supplies – including the 10 canvases I’m hoping will be filled with art on my way back home. Right now they are white and unprepared – Full of potential – but very empty.

The airports were airports – large, packed with people with very specific destinations – and busy. The trip itself, while long, was uneventful. Not Adventure travel, unless you count arriving at my connecting flight just as they called my group # to board! I think that’s just great timing. I will admit I wondered if my big suitcase packed with the art supplies would make the connection – just 50 minutes, and Dallas is a huge airport – but yup – it was safely riding around in Baggage Claim in Albuquerque.

Getting the rental car was super easy. There are clear signs to ‘Rental Cars’ near Baggage Claim – and they have just one bus that takes all folks picking up Rental Cars to an off the airport Rental Car Building. Go right for one group of agencies, go left for the other. Hard to get lost – easy to find your agency!

Got my car – a small SUV – that to my eyes looks like a huge truck. And drives like one too! The agent proudly explained that it was a 2024 model – one of the newest they had on the lot. Hmmm.

I’ll grant you it was huge – although when Char (76) and Carol (58) and I put all out luggage in – we had to use the 4th seat for extra storage. I think the issue is all the art supplies. We all were told to come prepare to paint not shop – and it’s hard to judge what you’ll need. Just picking the colors is a challenge – what works in Montreal might not be appealing to paint with in Santa Fe. The light is different, the air is different – and I think the colors will be very different. We shall see.

We meet up with Carrie (1/4 Cherokee and 79) and Dee (my age, 4’11” and super nice) – and agree to follow them as we head out to the Turquoise Road – a scenic bypass between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Painless trip – broken up by stopping for lunch at a decrepit looking old Coal Mining town that has been turned into a terribly cutesy Western themed Art community.

We all agree that the wide-open spaces around us are both lovely, and conducive to folks doing big sculpture. We pass several ‘art studios’ that feature old car frames that have been repurposed into ‘art’. Some painted, some left to continue rusting. There’s even an Origami Garden with the largest Metal Origami structures I’ve ever seen. They tower over the landscape looking like huge folding paper Birds and Horses. Unfortunately – it’s closed, and we can only peak in from the entrance.

We chat over lunch – I learn that Carol is Gluten Free – and suffers badly if she even eats the tiniest bit of Gluten, and Dee has a dairy free diet that it turns out to include all Cheese made with goat, sheep or cow milk. Well – I knew that – but the folks at the ranch did not – and they had carefully added cheese to both the salad and the ‘Gratin’ dish at dinner time. I know – dealing with ‘food issues’ isn’t fun – but hey, at least we are all getting better at saying ‘No’ – rather then eating and suffering, or not eating and just pushing the food around the plate to make it look like we ate.

The Ranch is a 10 acre field with a large low adobe building forming the main ranch house, and a heavily renovated ‘barn’ acting as the home of the hosts. We have the entire run of the place – all rooms are huge – all the furniture is huge and well worn – and there are tons of ‘spaces’ where folks can gather or be alone. I like it.

My room is a small suite. Huge bedroom with lots of storage spots but not much furniture and a mini-kitchen/desk area. Bathroom too. I have windows on 2 sides – one with a lovely view of the sunrise – that I admired greatly while writing this post, and one leading to a ‘private’ porch with a hammock I shall never use.

After getting our gear into our rooms – I help move the suitcases of several of the other guests – who thought that at 76 I’d be the strongest… (Thank you Mona) – then we gather for a quick chat and orientation.

We play a name game – which clearly didn’t help me because I’ve forgotten names already – but I’m going to write them down over breakfast so I get them right in the blog.

We spend time introducing our selves, and describing where we are ‘art’ wise. Outside of Tabatha (58) – our leader – Cat (68) and Xan (54 and the youngest) are the only ones actually making a living from doing ‘art’. Char explains that she is a newbie – but learning constantly, Xan is a friend of Tabatha – and has been doing art for a long time – although I don’t think she makes a living painting – it’s creating jewelry that she sells on line that provides some income.

Some of the women are married – although for all of us – while our husbands support our desire to do ‘art’ – they didn’t come on the retreat. Most of the women are single and unattached. Two never had kids, One has only one daughter who at 24 is still living at home and has health issues.

After dinner there is more chatting until I excuse myself. I’m way past my expiry date… I need to wind down, straighten my room and go to bed.

Signing off to do Yoga – eat Breakfast – record names – and start painting…

The Soup Lady

Kefalonia vs St. Croix – Which Island reigns Supreme?


I’m currently on Kefalonia – one of the larger Greek Islands – smaller than Crete, bigger than Rhodes – and having a blast.

We have German friends, their daughter is having Greek Destination Wedding – and we’re here to celebrate! There are just 20 of us total – a small intimate gathering – and a wonderful opportunity to discover an island I’d never even heard of until the wedding invite arrived!

Kefalonia – I looked it up – is 304 sq miles, with a population density of 55 people per sq mile and a total population (2023) of about 35,000.

In comparison – St. Croix is just 81 sq miles with a population density of 604 people per sq mile and a total population (2023) of about 50,000.

So for practical purposes – Kefalonia should feel a lot less crowded. But that’s not the case. The towns – and I’ve really only explored Argostoli – are small in footprint, but very crowded. Cars everywhere, lots of restaurants, lots of cafes, lots of stores, lots of hotels – the feeling is ‘mobbed’ – and not in a good way. I was just trying to back out of a parking spot – and no one would let me pull out. In fact, I was 1/2 way out and a taxi actually swerved around me to avoid having to stop.

And this is not yet high season. I can’t imagine what it must be like here when the tourists are here in significant numbers.

On St. Croix folk are amazingly polite. They will pause to let you turn right (on St. Croix, we drive on the left – so it’s the right turn that’s a challenge), and if you don’t immediately move when a light turns green – you might get a gentle beep, although most folks will just patiently wait until you notice the light has changed. Not so here in Kefalonia. You Pause – They lean on the horn! On St. Croix – a honk is a hello to a friend, a beep is a reminder to check the light, and waves are common.

Folks on St. Croix smile at you – even if just walking past. Here on Kefalonia – it’s a head down – I’m on a mission walk. That is a very different feeling let me tell you. But I can understand why the women tend to have that ‘I’m ignoring you, please ignore me’ attitude. I like to walk head up and smiling – and I have lost track of the number of men here in Kefalonia who have called out to me. “Looking Good”, “Nice”, “Hey Babe”. For a 75 year old Grand-mother – It’s kinda flattering – but not the general warmth of greetings on St. Croix where folks call out Morning, Morning to everyone that passes by! Here it’s clearly a form of marketing – not just a way to say hello.

I find myself reflecting the surroundings. Here on Kefalonia, I’m more ‘in a rush’, less likely to let folks in when they are stopped waiting, more likely to drive quickly, less likely to admire my surroundings. Interesting, eh?

Another big difference relates to Shade. On St. Croix – beaches have trees – mostly Palm trees, but also Mangroves and soft woods – and there’s shade a plenty. Here on the Beaches of Kefalonia – which I will admit have a lot more sand than the beaches of St. Croix – there is no shade. None. If you need shade, you are going to pay for it – Major Beaches here have ‘Beach Chair and Umbrella Stands’. On St. Croix – the norm is for folks to carry their own chairs – and put them under a Palm Tree for shade. On Kefalonia – Shade costs! 30 Euros for two Beach lounge chairs and a permanent wooden umbrella like structure.

Like St. Croix, Kefalonia has only short buildings – I don’t think there’s a law on building height here, but just as in St. Croix, I have yet to see anything that towers over the church steeples. That’s nice.

But Kefalonia is much much much hillier. In town the houses stack up upon each other, with narrow roads with no sidewalks dividing the living spaces. And you are either going up or down – I’ve seen very little level ground! And it’s steep. You aren’t casually strolling here – you are hiking up or down.

Strikingly, the one level section I’ve seen is the Harbor in Argostoli – and it has a concrete boardwalk – at least 30’ wide – that bend and turns following the contours of the shoreline for several Kilometres. And it has NO SHADE. Given the heat and humidity here – it’s a challenge to enjoy a stroll without getting sunstroke.

Beaches in Kefalonia seem to be surrounded by Rock Walls – conveniently pierced with stone staircases that you can use to access the beach. This creates very dramatic scenery. I have spotted some beaches with easier access points – but they are less dramatic. I admit to loving the towering boulders – but some of the staircases do feel very treacherous. I’ve been grasping hand rails – when they exist – with a feeling of relief and gratitude to the builders.

The weather in Kefalonia is quite different from that on the island of St. Croix. Currently we are getting Sand/Dust from the Sahara Desert, so there is a haze in the sky and the air feels heavy. In comparison, St. Croix has a fairly (8 months of the year) constant breeze from the East across the Atlantic Ocean. Lovely, fresh, and a Blue Blue Sky is the norm. Here in Kefalonia, the breeze is far less consistent. And right now – there’s no breeze to speak of at all. So there are a great deal more insects of the flying small variety (yes – Mosquitos – but also no-see-em and flys). I do long for my lazy meals outdoors on my balcony.. Here we can eat outside – no problem – but fly nets are ubiquitous.

And Kefalonia can be cold. It was quite cool here when we arrived, and I know Greece does experience winter. That’s a big difference from the 85 degrees year round in St. Croix.

Shopping – despite the lower population here on Kefalonia – there are a lot more shops – particularly for home goods, clothing, and ‘beach junk’. This is a tourist destination – so you’d expect shops to cater to tourists – and the number of blown up huge floaties I’ve spotted is considerable. On St. Croix – I have never seen a shop selling only huge floaties – although you can find them – and the gas stations have air pumps to blow them up. There is clearly a different mentality at play.

On the other hand – in Argostoli I spotted a yarn shop – on St. Croix there are places to get yarn – but no designated store. That actually sums up the differences in shopping on the two islands. Despite the smaller population, shops on Kefalonia can and do offer huge inventories often extremely focused. On St. Croix – there are shops with lots of inventory – but it’s all hidden. You need to know where to go – window displays are considered a waste of time and resources.

Because neither my husband nor I speak or read Greek, we’re sensitive to the language on signs. In St. Croix of course – it’s all English. Here it’s first Greek, then perhaps English. This makes navigation a bit challenging if you don’t know where you are going. I ended up having to make several loops to get onto the right road this morning because I didn’t have a co-pilot and our rental car doesn’t link up to my cell phone.

Other differences – generally the coffee is better here in Kefalonia, and I’ve had some very yummy cakes and great tasting bread. Both cakes and bread are hard to find on St. Croix – the lack of AC makes laminating dough a challenge, so shortbread pasty the go-to option. But I’ve also had great meals on St. Croix – so I’d rate the food as very similar. With the edge to Kefalonia for fruits… The fruit salads made fresh daily here have been outstanding.

Bottom line – I’m rather live on St. Croix with is slow, slow pace, relaxed locals, friendly smiles, and casual approach to living, then here on Kefalonia with it’s stifling humidity and more ‘driven’ approach to life. But Kefalonia is well worth a visit… so do drop in!

Signing off to go the wedding… The Soup Lady