Category Archives: √√√

Good bet – worth the money, worth the travel, worth the time.

Nov 14 – A Religious High and a Fabulous Hotel – Day 13


6 Years, 6 months, 6 weeks, 6 days, 6 hours, 6 minutes.

As per Rio – That’s how long a Tibetan Monk meditates to ascend to a higher rank. There’s also a 3 year, 3 month, 3 week, 3 day, 3 hour, 3 minute option to obtain a lower rank. In case you are interested.

We start today with a visit to the beautiful Tibetan Monastery that is about 1/4 of the way up that same winding road we’ve been taking – over and over again.

But this time after a hair-raising drive thru town, we pull into the unearthly quiet of a lovely Monastery perched on a flat piece of ground on the Nepal side of the road.

Rio – who is Tibetan – walks us thru the Monastery. We spin the prayer wheels waking slowly from wheel to wheel and concentrating on our thoughts and we see the ‘Monk’ only residence for Monk who are doing a mediation – 6 years, 6 months, 6 weeks, 6 days, 6 hours, 6 minutes – with only one acolyte in attendance to help as he needs it.

There is a yearly Retreat held here with hundreds of Tibetans seeking enlightenment held here in the Retreat Hall, and housing cascading down the hillside for the younger monks in training or I suppose the folks who come on Retreat. There is no question that this is a power point in the world. Even I can feel that this is a very special place.

It is the oldest Tibetan Monastery in the world. There are others that are much fancier – but this was the first. And it’s obvious why.

We take the required photos, and eventually leave. We still must drive to Darjeeling, check-into our next hotel, and eat lunch at the fancy restaurant I’ve been promised!

By Helmut’s mapping app – we should be about 1 hr from Darjeeling – and we can even see it across the valley. It looks close enough to touch, but nothing is as it seems in this part of the world!

I suppose it’s not a surprise to be told that while the crow flies, Darjeeling is very close, by car it’s a lot lot further. And when we finally reach the outskirts of Darjeeling we find out why.

One of the Major Political Figures is coming TODAY to open a new outdoor shopping experience, with many small booths dedicated to selling hand-made product from each province in India. There’s music, there are flags, there are dancers, drummers and singers, and there is no driving thru!

Our driver has to stop at each of the barricades to explain he’s got guests who are going to the Elgin. That name clearly holds power because each time he uses it – the Barriers go down, and we are waved or saluted thru! Hmmm – I’m wondering what the Elgin is?

Eventually (1.5 hrs – anyone surprised) we arrive at a lovely wrought iron gate manned by a gentleman in uniform. Our driver explains who we are – and we are saluted thru the gate and into a driveway that ends at one of the most beautiful hotels I’ve ever seen.

Originally built over 125 years ago (1887) – it’s been maintained in the traditional style except for the addition of modern plumbing – including a huge deep Bathtub, and Room heaters.

We’re greeted – offered a drink – and given a small gift to welcome us to the hotel. Photo’s dot the walls reflecting the glorious past of this hotel, and there is staff ready to escort us to our rooms.

My room is warm and huge. Actually about 3 or 4 times the size of my room at the HomeStay – and with the most beautiful thing I’ve seen in a week. A bathtub. I’m not alone about focusing on the bathtub – I no sooner get into my room than I get a photo from Andrea – it’s Helmut in the Bathtub!

We regroup – and head out to lunch. Rio knows the way (of course – I think he knows the way everywhere) and we find ourselves in the middle of the main shopping street and smack dab in the center of the crowd gathering to greet the arriving Politician Mamata Banerjee. I immediately get distracted by a group of dancers in lovely Saris – and Andrea gets sent to find me and drag me back to the group! (Sigh)

We walk thru the town to a restaurant called Glenary – it was originally a pastry shop – and has morphed into a 3 story Restaurant, Pastry Shop, Bar that is a popular favorite. And it serves Steak.

Rio basically tells us – you must order the steak, so we do. I also try to order something fried. I’ve discovered that the fried foods tend to agree better with my stomach, and after several attempts – waiter takes the order, returns to say – we’re out, takes another order – returns to say we’re out – until finally I ask – well what do you have – and it’s the Chinese style fried chicken that is available.

We relax, have drinks – they have a choice of beer – Helmut is so happy. This part of India isn’t alcohol free – but it’s been a challenge to source beer – and this time he gets to choose! First time since we arrived that there’s been not only beer, but a choice of beers.

Our Chinese fried chicken arrives – and it’s perfect. I’d have been perfectly happy with just that for lunch. The steaks are served – and my doubts are in fact set in front of me. This isn’t steak, although I’ll agree that it’s beef. It’s just a much larger serving of what I’d call pot roast than the one we got the other evening at the HomeStay.

We do our best, but no one can finish their potion – even with Helmut taking 1/2 of Andrea’s. So after some discussion – Rio takes the remainder back with him. I think his plan is to feed the ‘homeless’ dogs that live near his HomeStay – because he’s let the car go with his 2nd in command. They have to go pick up a new guest from Bagdogra Airport. Rio is going home by public transport.

He insists on walking us back to the hotel – I think they think we will get lost if we wander outside of their protective vision – and we say good-bye.

We opt to return to our rooms and give those bathtubs a good hard workout. I actually wash my hair TWICE. I’d been making do with a washcloth and a quick wipe because the room was so cold. But with a warm bathtub, a proper bathroom and – wow – a Bathrobe – well, I’m ready to get comfy.

We opt to meet at 7:30 for a drink in the bar of the hotel. And you can envision the Raj arriving to greet folks.

It reminds me of scenes from the movie – The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. At one point they go into a private club – and I promise you – this could have been where they filmed that section.

I’m so relaxed that I make the beginning traveler’s mistake of ordering a Pina Colada. Silly me – of course they can’t make one. What was I thinking! But I’m so happy and so warm and so clean I don’t really care. We chat, go over some of our adventures, and basically say good-bye.

Tomorrow I’m leaving – starting my journey home while Helmut and Andrea will continue the adventure – several days in Darjeeling to explore, than visits to Gangtok, Pelling, the Rabdanste ruins, Ravangla, Kalimpong, Sunderbans National Park, Corbett National Park, and the Corbett Tiger Reserve. I know they will have a blast, but I’m ready to head back home.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 13 – Singalila National Park – Day 12


Last day – we NEED a Red Panda!

And we wake to the good news – the spotters have one and we need to go NOW!

This time I’m determined to brave the Bamboo Forest.. but first I must brave the ride up the Mountain. This just doesn’t get easier.

To comfort me – Rio promises that tomorrow – our travel day – will feature a visit to a Tibetan Monastery in Nepal – and the best Resturant in Darjeeling.

Deal!

Final the jeeps stop at the closest trail into the Red Panda’s location – and we all jump (well – I slowly slide) out of the jeep and start the climb. The spotters have been holding the Panda in his tree – it’s a juvenile- not the same one spotted two days ago – but in the same location.

I’m the tail of the line – Andrea is moving at full speed, with Helmut close behind her but I’m just trying not to hurt myself.

I have on my good Utah ‘boot’s’ with their deep rubber cut soles, and a hiking stick for my right hand. I need to be sure that my right knee doesn’t take any twisting.

Mingmar is sticking to me like glue. We hike past the point that I ‘quit’ last time – and follow the narrow track (about 6” wide – not a typo – 6 inches wide) into the bamboo forest.

As before – the bamboo is so dense here that you can’t see more than a few feet ahead – but I’ll be honest – my view is my FEET! I put each foot down carefully, making sure I’m steady on that foot before shifting to the next.

The path is up and down small but steep terrain. Maybe 5 steps down, two steps across a muddy patch, then 5 steps up. 2 steps across the top of the ridge, then 5 steps down. Repeat.

I don’t think I’m scared – but my heart rate would disagree with that. I’m going slowly – but super carefully – and my heart rate is going up and up. It’s mostly the adrenaline and the Altitude combined to fuel my increasing heart rate, not really the exercise.

We are suddenly very close to the Panda sighting – and we stop to decide where everyone else is standing. The team with me starts whistling – and we hear whistles coming back at us.

There’s one problem – At least for me. I can’t tell where the returning whistles are coming from!

Apparently Mingmar is also having trouble deciding – since he tells me NOT TO MOVE – and goes in first one direction, and then the other.

I am most definitely not moving.

If I got lost – I don’t know how to whistle!

Suddenly the team with Andrea and Helmut appears. The Panda has changed trees – he came down the tree, ran within inches of Helmut (there are BIG animals – so think a large large large dog with a really long tail) and then disappeared.

The decision is to re-group and wait to see if the trackers can spot the new location.

So we wait. I’m actually glad – I need to get my heart rate back down.. It’s at about 148 BPM – and I know if I just stop and do my Yoga breathing – I’ll be fine. But I have to stop.

We stand quietly in the forest – listening and occasionally whispering as Helmut and Andrea fill me in on what happened. Apparently they spotted the Red Panda and started taking pictures when it ran down the tree and within inches of Helmut to disappear into the forest.

Eventually my heart rate goes back to normal (under 100 BPM), and the trackers return. Bad news – they can’t find him. Imagine it – he’s huge, he’s red, and you can’t see him!

Rio explains that the Panda will curl into a ball in the fork of a tree hidden by the moss and ferns – and they are invisible.

Back to plan B

While Andrea and Helmut are disappointed – I’m so thrilled I made the climb I can’t stand it! And Rio comments on how well I did – he actually says – you must have done a lot of climbing in the past. You are a BadAss!

Hee, Hee – I’m definitely not sharing my heart rate with him… I’ll just say thank you – and get myself out of the forest.

I think Mingmar wanted me to need more help!

We get back to the jeeps – and the decision is to drive to the top of the Mountain – because it’s there – and because we’re going to eat Lunch on the top of the Mountain.

If I thought the road was curvy and rough before – I under estimated the effect weather has on these roads. The road to this point was smooth as a baby’s bottom in comparison to what we are now bouncing along on!

We are going from 8,000 feet to 10,000 feet. And the road is basically large unfinished stones that have been laid down and filled in with mud. Even walking on the road would be a challenge – driving it in 4×4 Jeeps is beyond exciting.

Since it’s getting towards noon – the mist has rolled in – and there is nothing to see on the left or the right. Sheer cliffs drop into the mist on both sides as we climb. There are trekking tracks crossing the path (I’m not calling this a road – and neither would you).

Serious Trekkers routinely make this climb – and we pass several small groups on our way up, and up, and up. There are at least three small clusters of buildings – HomeStays, mini-stores, and small square buildings labeled ‘Toilet’ along the route as well.

I peaked into one of the Toilets – they are squat toilets of ceramic- but I suspect that underneath is a Pit. I’ll bet they just move the ‘toilet’s’ each season.

Occasionally there are religious points – recognizable by the 5 color flags draped in banners everywhere – Red for Fire, Blue for Water, White for Purity, Yellow for Sun, Green for Earth. Rio explains that when a Tibetan (Hindu) wants a special favour they will buy a series of these banners and hang them in a spiritual spot. Some are very old, most are newer. But the locations are specific – points of power I’m willing to bet.

We continue up eventually stopping at the Mount Everest view point – but the mist is too thick to see the Mountain. We do however see Yaks.

At the top of the top there is another Military Encampment – and again we must check-in. Then we wander around and eventually go inside to eat Lunch. Guess what’s on the menu…

Did you guess Rice and Chicken! Good for you!

I get a Fanta – my stomach is roiling from the adrenaline of the climb, the twisting of the road, and the altitude. Never has ANYTHING tasted so good.

We are blessed with an occasional clearing moment – but basically the sky is white. In the photographs it looks as if we are standing in front of a Photographers Backdrop – it’s so evenly colored and smooth. Check out today’s photo.. taken at 10,000 feet and looking towards Mount Everest – notable in it’s NOT THERE!

It took 1.5 hours to make the climb. It will take us 3 hours to get down.

I hug Helmut and Andrea – and tell them that words simply can’t describe how happy I am to have been able to do this.

I don’t care that I’m cold, I don’t care that I didn’t see a Red Panda, I don’t care (much) that I didn’t get to see Mount Everest – I have challenged myself and done what I wanted to do!

I am so so so happy.

I’m even willing to use the squat toilet before we start the ride back down!

Since this is our last trip into the Park – we need to stop at each of the Check-points to a) check out for today, and b) check-out completely. At one of the check-points – there’s no solider on duty. So Rio has to go to camp and actually call out. Eventually a solider appears – and apparently understands that we are foreigners checking out.

Back at the ‘low’ altitude of 8,000 feet – we drive thru town – and I spot a chicken butcher. He’s got a whole chicken on a chopping block – and he’s using a Machete to cut it up!

Well – that explains all the bones and random appearing pieces.

Tonight Andrea and Helmut go out and spot a Flying Squirrel. He’s huge – and he does FLY! Well – not fly exactly – kinda spread his legs and arms and coast downward – but it’s very cool.

I’m warming up on my heated mattress pad.. glad to be warm again.

For dinner – Abi makes Biryani for us – he’s the cook in his family – with Chicken of course. It’s delicious. And there’s lovely Sauces to go with it.

We chat, compare photos, and basically say good bye. Tomorrow Abi will leave early for the long drive to Bagdogra Airport, and we will head to Darjeeling. But before we part – we want to be sure to exchange contact information so that we can remain friends.

Eventually it’s not only past my bedtime – it’s past everyone else’s too – and we head downstairs to our beds.

Tomorrow will again be a long day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Part 2 – Nov 10 – Singalila National Park – Day 8


PART Two – aka continuing…

Why the security? We are actually driving right along the Napel/India border. As in – one side of the road is Napel and the other side is India. There are signs everywhere that explain that folks who are NOT citizens of India or Napel can not cross the border without an appropriate Visa.

This is a lot harder to avoid than it sounds by the way. All the homestays, all the tea shops, and the tiny tiny stores are on the left side of the road (Napel) because the right side (India) is basically a vertical drop!

The only flat portions on the right side have been ‘claimed’ by the India Military Border Patrol as secure military encampments. The MBP are mainly responsible for catching smugglers – but they also keep track of who comes into these mountains.

Rio stops at the first check-point, and since this is our first trip in – we must fill in forms and sign. Think registering for a hotel with armed security and you have the picture.

On tiny issue – I had sent our amazing Travel Agent – Cristina – both my US and Canadian Passport. But when I filled in the India Visa – it required me to use as my country my place of Residence. So I used my Canadian Passport. When I pointed this out to Rio – his comment – don’t worry – they don’t know that Canada and US aren’t the same place.

Ok then… In any case – I signed, and they seemed happy. At least they waved us thru.

We continue the bumpy curvy hilly drive up and up and up – there are 3 more check-points – again requiring a copy of my passport and Visa – again not worrying about the US/Canadian thing – and finally we reach the Singalila Park Entrance.

A quick comment on Jeeps. Wow. I never appreciated those adds where they show the Jeeps climbing up rocks – but I do now. We are taking almost vertical 170 degree turns every few seconds – What the jeeps lack in cushy comfort they more than make-up in their ability to get up this road.

Turns out that there are only 140 guys certified to drive this road.. No surprise there. Rio says he’s won’t do it – he had a crash. Only the jeep was hurt – but he lost his confidence. And trust me – you need nerves of steel and incredible reflexes to do this kind of driving – on the left, with a gear shift, on a one lane road with 170 degree turns and traffic in both directions.

Our driver explains that there are rules… You must honk before every blind corner (that’s like 90% of them), you must judge who of the passing jeeps has the better place to pull over enough to let the other squeeze past – and you have to be polite.

I’m basically gasping at every turn, and after trying the left hand seat for one drive – have stuck to the inside seats! The sheer drops terrify me.

We finally get to one of the two ‘major’ villages – Gairibus. On the India side is a large military encampment – on the Napel side are two ‘tea shops’, a few homes and up a rocky short road – a ‘Homestay’ that features proper seat-upon toilets! Heaven. Beyond that we’re told not to wonder as we’ve already strayed into Napel.

After our break – we continue on to the next ‘major’ village – Batasi – and from there we are going to walk to a frequent Red Panda Sighting location. I’m game, although I might be sorry later. The hike is almost 2 Km round trip – and we’re following an old Jeep track that has been long abandoned. There are muddy sections and while the path is relatively flat – it’s also headed down hill! We descend about 750 ft in vertical (which we’ll have to climb back up), and get to the ‘we see Panda’s’ here location. Nope.

The spotters check around – Nope. Panda are all curled up in trees – impossible to spot.

We hike back up – get back in our Jeeps, and head back to Gairibus.

We are going to have to try again another day – the clouds have rolled in, our view is gone, and it’s gotten cold.

Lunch is served at the HomeStay with that lovely toilet – it’s a typical Indian repas – so lots and lots of dishes served separately so you mix and match in your rice. There’s what we will discover is mystery Chicken with bones – lots of bones, several different sauces, lots of Rice – and Bottled water.

Helmut gleefully eats his share, and then finishes off what is left on my plate. This is going to be a repeating pattern. They simply won’t let me ‘help my self’ – so there’s always a lot more than I can consume. Helmut is very happy to help!

With no chance to see the Red Pandas – we head back down the Mountain.

It’s 1.5 hr up, and 1.5 hr down – that’s a 3 hour round trip.. which we will be repeating daily trying to find the elusive Red Pandas.

Once back at our HomeStay – we’re told that dinner is at 7:00 – and we can rest. I go back to my room, turn on my Mattress heat to max – and try to warm up. I didn’t bring the right gear – that’s obvious. But tomorrow I’m definitely putting on more layers.

Dinner is lovely – again traditional India – starting with a Ginger Soup, then the main course which is more Chicken with bones in a delicious sauce, vegetables, sliced cucumbers and onions (yum), Dal, and some pickles that Abi warns us are a bit spicy. Helmut loves them.

Dinner done – it’s early to bed. Tomorrow we’re getting an earlier start in hopes of getting up the Mountains early enough to spot those Red Pandas.

I sure hope we do!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 10 – Singalila National Park – Day 8


After yesterday’s harrowing journey – getting woken up to the sounds of a serious dog fight – apparently right outside my window – doesn’t surprise me.

We left an absolutely fabulous HomeStay in Kathoni, driven 8 hours the last 2 of which can best be described as nauseating – and I’m woken to a Dog fight. Just figures.

But not one to not give places a chance – I shiver my way out of bed and say a quick mental thank goodness to our host who has equipped every bed with an electric mattress warmer that works a treat!

First things first – I need a place to do my Yoga – and my room is way too small. I go up stairs to the kitchen/dining area and find our host – Roi. He says – use the prayer room.

Hmm – ok I guess. Yoga is very meditative – and our hosts are Tibetan – so it works.

The prayer room is just the right size with a nice rug on the floor. I put down my Yoga Mat and I’m facing a wall sized Tibetan Shrine. There are 3 large ‘goddess’ statues plus several smaller ones. 6 beautiful metal cups are carefully placed in front of the shrine, and there is an incense burner.

The room is calm and peaceful – perfect for Yoga!

When I’m done – I cross the hall to the dining area to join Helmut and Andrea for Breakfast. It’s a bit of learning experience – the 5 gals that work in the open kitchen are determined to please us – and start by throwing at us all the food they think we might want.

We’re talking Indian Breakfast options like puffed rice that is yesterdays rice – re-fried, cereals, breads the like of which I’ve never seen, two types of juice – Guava and Orange today – Porridge, eggs, jam, honey, coffee, tea, chicken sausages… They basically fill the table and watch what we eat.

Problem – I’m still feeling a bit like I spent too long on a very rough, very curvy road – and despite a decent sleep – eating just isn’t working right now.

But I need to take my Malaria Pills – and experience has shown that doing that on an empty stomach is a recipe for disaster – so I pick thru the bounty trying for bland as possible. I succeed and swallow the pills.

Now it’s time to start our first Safari into the Singalila National Park.

We are currently at about 4000 feet (up from sea level just yesterday), and the Park itself starts at about 7000 feet and extends up to over 9000 feet. This is pretty high Altitude – and I have had Altitude issues in the past – but I know now to take it easy on the first day for fear of Collapsing.

We are assigned our ‘jeeps’ for the 4 days we’ll be doing safari’s here. I’m the only guest in my jeep – there’s also the driver – Schwan – the owner and boss of the team – Roi, and my personal assistant – Mingwa

Apparently it’s been determined that I’m quite fragile – and will need a personal porter. Well, I’m not sending Mingwa home. He’s young (23) and sweet – and is willing to carry my camera. Since I figure I’ll need both hands free to hike into the Bamboo Forests to see the Red Panda – I’m fine with that.

Helmut and Andrea are in a 2nd jeep with a driver and the 2nd in command – Sergio. In a 3rd jeep are a British Couple (he 78 and in pretty decent shape – she’s a bit younger but quite ill. I think this is a bucket trip for them).

We head out – and immediately get stopped – the 100 K Himalayan Challenge Run is happening – and they are going thru our little village! There folks are insane – they are going to RUN (ok – not all run, some will end up stumbling) up 2000 Vertical feet on a road that makes a roller coaster look like a super highway. OMG.

When the police deem it safe, we pull out and head up following the same (and only) road that the runners are using. As we pass each group I cheer and wave – because I remember what if felt like when I did 5 Ks on flat ground… hearing someone cheer for you is deeply motivating and highly personal, even if you don’t know them.

Nothing in all the write-ups I read mentioned the road you must take to get to the area where the Red Panda’s are found.

If you go to MontrealMadame.com – you’ll see a map of this area – we’re driving from Manebhanjyang to the area between Gairibus and Batasi.

On the map it looks so so short – but it’s 1.5 hours of the narrowest, steepest, pot-holed filled road I’ve ever seen.

The drivers are specially trained – and there are only 108 jeeps in Manebhaniyang with about 130 drivers available. Naturally some are better than others – and they all know each other! Most grew up together – so it isn’t a surprise when more often than not our driver will roll down his window and say hi to the driver headed the other way.

The road actually looks pretty good for the first 100 yards maybe.. then you hit the first 170 degree turn – and you realize – wow – this road is really really curvy.

The ‘straight’ parts last about twice as long as the curves – and you literally corkscrew your way up one Mountain and then down and up another one even higher, then down.. repeat and repeat and repeat.

To add interest – along the way is a Tibetan Monastery, several small villages, and 4 military check-points. These are spaced fairly evenly along the road and maned by soldiers who take their job seriously.

We are blest with a clear clear sky – and the views are simply amazing! The sun is at the exactly right angle to allow the layers of Mountain Greenery to glow in different shades of Green and Blue – Culminating in a lovely view of the White Capped “Sleeping Buddha” – the tallest mountain in India. Wow.

Since this is our first trip up the road – our passports are verified and a copy kept for their records, our guide has to verify for us – and the soldiers peek into the jeep to be assured that the folks the guide has said are inside are in fact inside.

The first check-point is the most serious – and all the soldiers are armed and dressed in camouflage from head to toes. Once you’ve completed the check-in – they do smile and wave you on.

Why the security? We are actually driving right along the Napel/India border.

Want to know what happens next? Check out Part 2 of Nov 10.

Nov 7 – Kaziranga National Park – Day 6


Sunrise – Yoga – Quick Coffee and cake – and we’re off.

Today we are going to hit the Central Entrance twice – morning and afternoon. So Lunch is going to be in the major tourist area around the entrance.

True to plan – we arrive at the opening bell and enter the park as the 2nd jeep. Cool.

And immediately run into the daily Elephant Ride! There is a ride at 5:00 AM, and a second at 6:30 – and the 6:30 one ends at 8:00 – so as we enter the park – they are just leaving!

Of course these are domestic Elephants – with slightly pink ears. Each Elephant has a driver with a long stick to provide the Elephant with directions – and on their back is a platform that holds 4 people – 2 to a side. They have ‘seat belts’, and even so seem to be leaning downwards. I guess they know what they are doing.

All I can say is you couldn’t catch me on one of these! First – there are probably 60 Elephants walking past us – so for most the front and back view is the Butt of one Elephant and the Head of another. And if you are sitting on one side – that’s your view. No way to turn around in your seat. And here’s the worst part – the Elephant bumps and sways – no way you are getting a decent picture.

But hey – they got to see us!

We prowl the park trying to find a tiger. We do spot some monkeys, plenty of one-horned Rhinos and some deer – but tiger’s are on holiday! Abi even tries having the driver stop to car and just stand still at a known tiger crossing – but no matter how long we wait – there’s no tiger showing up.

We do see a large reptile in his home in a tree trunk, and watch an eagle take off, catch a snake on the ground and then gracefully fly back to his perch to spot another tasty morsel. This is rather cool.

But no dice on the Tiger.

For Lunch we go to one of the nicest hotels/restaurants near the Central Entrance – the Igore. Delicious.

Back to the Park Entrance – more tourists, more noise, more cars – and no Tigers.

Bummer. 4 Safari’s done – and no tiger.. Just one left to go.

We make it back to the Park Entrance right at 5:00 – and they nicely don’t give Abi a warning. Whew.

On the way back to our place – we again drive thru the villages of the tea people – and realize they are having a celebration.

They have set up a tent made of bamboo poles by the river – and women and girls have gathered by the river. The men are sitting in chairs in the tent – and there’s music and singing. I will always stop for festivals – particularly ones that seem religious and this one looks perfect.

Abi directs the driver to park the car, and we hop out. We admire from afar – but then one of the men chats a bit with Abi – and we’re invited down to see what is going on – and are welcome to take pictures.

Cool!

The festival is in celebration of the Water Goddess – and Sunrise. They celebrate by carrying baskets of food down to the river, spend the night singing and praying and fasting, and then at dawn – go for a swim in the river and break their fast.

We are invited to sit with them to sing along – and then someone works up the nerve to ask if we’ll pose for a picture with them. That opens the flood gates – soon everyone wants a picture – from little 3-5 year olds to grannies and grandpas. We are the hit of the day!

As we are leaving – a group of young teen boys – who have been holding back and trying to look too mature for this – approach me for a hand-shake. I shake each and every one of their hands – wishing them health and Happiness.

Oh was this fun!

When we get back to the HomeStay – our host reports that one of the villagers had figured out we were staying with him – and had called him to let him know we’d be late for dinner because we were at the festival. This is a very small world.

I’m so glad we stopped – I had so much fun!

Great dinner – early ish to bed – tomorrow is another early day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Nov 6 – Kaziranga National Park – Day 5


Tigers, Rhinos, Elephants and Buffalo – Oh My!

Our day starts early – glorious sunrise, lovely weather, a quick cup of coffee and some homemade cake to get our engines going! Today is our first day at Kaziranga National Park.

We climb aboard Abi’s lovely and extremely comfortable car and head out to the Park. We starting with the East Entrance – and since the roads are still cut off from the recent flooding (happens every year) – each entrance is a one road Round Trip. That’s quite different from Manas – which did have one main road – but dozens of side roads allowed us to dodge crowds. This won’t happen at Kaziranga – so our only defence are early starts and late finishes..

Unlike Manas – which has a relaxed approach to leaving the Park on time – Kaziranga is so busy that it has strict rules. And guides and drivers found guilty of breaking the timing rules face huge fines – and a week’s banishment from the park! Given that we left Mangas after 5:00 every night – I’m concerned that we will run afoul of the rules here. The Park also closes from noon to 2 – to give the animals a chance to rest I think.

Ok – early start – we want to hit the gate at opening time – 7:30.

From our HomeStay to the Park East Entrance is a short 15 minute ride – but we wind our way thru several Tea People of Assme villages. The Tea People originally came to this part of India 150 years ago to work the tea fields – and they stayed. Just recently – they have actually been recognized as a unique community within Assme.

And they are unique. They have a unique way of dancing, several unique festivals – particularly ones that celebrate water – and their homes are also unique. They live on flood plains – every year they will be flooded.

This isn’t just a bad thing – the yearly floods leave slit that fertilizes their fields – and in addition to picking tea (mostly women) – they grow Rice – lots of Rice. And they are proud of their homes and their status as a unique community.

Our host is particularly concerned with introducing his guests to the villagers around him – his home is the hunting lodge of his grand-father, and most of the people he employs are members of the Tea People. He explained to us that this is on purpose – education isn’t a huge priority – and that means adults find it challenging to get jobs outside of low level agriculture. He is offering on the job training in Hospitality – not to mention living wage salaries.

I love our drive thru the waking up villages – women are sweeping the front drives, doing laundry the old fashioned way – as I can see from the clothes lines – and the men are working in the Rice Fields, setting up huge fishing nets that get filled as the tide goes in or working on their homes. It’s a busy place – but everyone is pleased to smile and wave as we drive by.

Soon enough we are at the East Entrance – and we switch from Abi’s car to a 4×4 jeep. Like the jeeps in Manas – there is a row for the driver and the armed security guard (these are wild animals), then two rows for guests. Abi and I share the middle road, Helmut and Andrea are in the back.

We are the only jeep we see! Perfect. We slowly bump our way into the park – immediately finding ourselves face to face with several Indian Buffalo – huge animals that sport horns that are at least 5 feet wide from tip to tip. Glorious photo opportunities abound and I’m very happy.

The animals are close enough to us that I have no issues with focus – and are calm enough to pose for picture after picture.

Abi stops the driver at a pile of brown – well – shit. It’s Rhino scat – recognizable by its ground up look and lighter color than Elephant dung. It turns out that Rhinos like to have bathroom spots – and they will return to that spot as often as they can.

Abi explains that this used to make it easier for the poachers – all they had to do was find a dung pile and hang around. Now the Indian Government and the Animal Agencies have drastically reduced the amount of poaching – so the Rhinos can go to the bathroom in peace. I definitely share that pain…

We also see Sus scrofa or Wild Pigs. These only faintly resemble pigs from North America. These pigs have long noses, oblong bodies, short legs – and no snout. We see at least one family – Mom, Dad, and a few younger ones – checking out the grasses right in front of a pair of grazing Buffalo. Lovely.

Carefully placed and well maintained towers afford higher view points over the marsh lands that border the park between India and Butan. We spot herds of deer grazing – and as expected – Abi is happy to point out bird after bird. My camera is only able to get out of focus shots of the birds – but it is fun to know you’ve seen them.

I do get a decent shot of a Roller – that’s a small but magnificent bird that has bright blue wings that shine when it flies!

The Rhinos of India have only one horn – hence the marketing slogan – One Horn Nation. And Kaziranga has over 1000 Rhinos. Here at the Eastern Entrance the Rhinos are relaxed, easy to spot and fun to photograph. I’m loving it.

We don’t manage a close up encounter like we had at Manas – but there are still lots of Rhino photos to take! Such fun.

There’s the ruins of a wooden bridge we must drive around – and I love my photo looking thru the remaining wooden structure to the water and wilderness beyond. The lighting is definitely with us this morning.

The Tiger and Jaguar Gods however – are not. We don’t spot a Tiger – or even hear birds and deer calling out their ‘Tiger Alarm’ calls. Oh well – we have 4 more Safari’s here – lots of chances.

Towards the end of our drive – I spot a Dragon in the water! It’s actually a log – but it really looks exactly like a dragon in the water – complete with fire coming out of its mouth. It makes for a Great photo!

We also run into a gal from Mumbai who is on her own, touring with just a driver. She’s clearly a birder judging by her camera, and her set-up. The middle seat of her jeep has been removed, and there’s a mattress and several bean bags arranged for long waits for just the right bird to appear. We exchange hellos – and continue on our ways.

It’s getting on to noon – and we must exit the park. So we drive out – back thru the villages and to our lovely HomeStay. The first of several Great meals and head off for our afternoon adventure.

This time we’re going to hit the Central Entrance to Kaziranga National Park – and we’ve been warned by other folks – as well as by our host and by Abi – that it is going to be a lot more crowded.

It’s about a 30 minute drive to the Central Entrance – thru the animal crossing zones – so the ride is bumpy! Not as bad as inside the park where I promise you – I feel like I’m on a 1970’s weight loss machine -but bad enough.

We arrive at the entrance to discover a huge line-up of jeeps filled with tourists – mostly Indian’s – not ‘foreigners’ like us – waiting for the gates to open.

I’m going to guess that there were probably about 100 jeeps waiting at 2:00 – and another couple hundred or so drove in later. Groups of giggling school kids on day trips to the National Park, family groups packed 5 and 6 into a jeep that comfortably sits just 4 with at least one screaming kid, and a much smaller sub-set of serious folks with serious drivers.

It’s a mad-house – and it’s not going to be better inside the park because there is just one main road with only two short spur roads. If you stop to catch a shot you can expect at least 4 jeeps to try to squeeze by. And if you don’t leave passing room – and they must wait behind you – they will leave their engines running. On the wooden bridges that abound this makes for enough vibration to be sure to ruin most shots.

But this is the best place to see Tigers. We are going to have to make the best of it.

But despite Abi’s best efforts – again we are Tiger disappointed. And with so much noise – the animals seem more timid – and tend to stay further away from the road.

Tomorrow is another day.

So it’s home (sleeping policeman yet again), a great dinner, lovely conversation with our host who takes us on a tour of ‘The Big House” – and then it’s bed time.

Signing off with hopes of tiger sightings tomorrow…

The Soup Lady

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 3


I meet the Minister of Tourism for this part of India.

It’s another early morning – and when we arrive at reception – there’s a crowd. I spot a man carrying one of the those massive birding lens – and ask – Wow – 600 or 800? Answer – it’s 800.

Abi quickly joins us to introduce me to the Minister of Tourism and I take in the rest of the crowd. There the manager of the Retreat, several staff, lots of police looking ‘protective’, and us.

Oh – hi.

The Minister gets into his jeep, most of the rest get into their jeeps – and the three jeep parade takes off – heading for the entrance to the Park.

Abi says – ok – here’s the plan – we need to try some off the path trails to avoid getting stuck behind those guys – our goal – be in front!

So we quickly load up and leave. The Minister and his entourage haven’t gotten far – they found a bird in a tree right outside the retreat, so we scoot past and head for the park.

After yesterday – our decision is not to do that long drive again – not worth it. Instead we want to explore the paths less visited around the park.

And it’s a winning decision. Lots of great photo opps – although we sadly don’t see any monkeys. I’m getting a lot better at spotting the birds when Abi points them out – and also getting better at using my cameras.

I’m up to about 1000 photos to edit – but some of them are winners.

The highlight for me of our two safari’s today – besides dodging the Minister’s party – is our rest stop.

We are parked on a higher ridge line overlooking the river – just enjoying the view of Butan and enjoying a brief snack. In the distance in the river there is a solitary true Buffalo with his giant horns – and in the far distance two juvenile Rhino are playing in the water.

After a bit – Diplip says – excuse me – I need to use the little boys room. On one side of our admittedly tiny hill is a guard house – on the other side is a path down to the river. And there’s a bit of shade.

Diplip gets out of the jeep – walks along the ruts on the ridge line about 25 steps – and then quickly hassles back to the jeep! There are 2 Adult Rhinos just behind the guard house.

We slowly drive forward to take a look at- then Abi says – Back up Diplip – they are going to go around the back of the Guard House. We return to the shade of our tree – and are treated with 2 HUGE Rhinos just munching their way thru the back path of the Guard House, around to the ‘front’ yard right under our noses. One has a single horn – this is the older of the pair.

We shoot and shoot and shoot.

They hear the noises of our cameras – but can’t quite figure out where it is coming from – so we get full face views!

Awesome.

After a bit the Rhinos decide that they would like to join us on the ridge – Diplip slowly and carefully moves out of their way – and with surprising speed for such massive beasts – they run up the jeep path – up and over the ridge – and head down the way towards the river.

Perfect.

Absolutely Perfect.

We head back to the Retreat for breakfast/lunch – a break – and then we head out again. Before we go – I’m tasked with ordering dinner. And I ask if they do Tandouri Chicken. Turns out they just got a Tandouri Oven – so the answer is yes! It’s Chicken tonight people!

After this morning’s adventures – the afternoon is quite relaxed. We spot up close a true Indian Buffalo (not a Guar) with it’s Magnificat horns spread about 5’ wide – have a face to face encounter with a Guar with only one horn who poses for pictures, and find more stunning sunset pictures.

Tomorrow we’re leaving Manas for another Park – and 8 hour drive away. So at least I’ll get to sleep in until 5:30… but then I must pack.

Dinner was predictably delicious – Helmut even gets a Cold Beer – not the easiest thing to find apparently – and we are all happy campers.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

Manas National Park – Manas, India – Day 1


Today starts off bright and early! 6:00 AM and the sun is just starting to rise. As asked – we gather at the reception area of the resort, are greeted by Abi, and load up our personal 4×4 Jeep.

The lovely driver will be with us for the next 3 days – so today is a ‘getting used to the tourists’ day for him and ‘getting comfy with our cameras’ for us.e

Our transport is an open air jeep with three rows of 2 seats each. First row is for the driver on the right side, and there is a passenger seat on the left.

Helmut opts for the middle seat – behind the driver on the right – Andrea wants to sit in the back next to Abi, and the passenger seat is reserved for the park employee who is tasked with keeping us safe.

He is carrying a rifle. I’d feel a lot safer if the rifle weren’t rusted, and looks like it dates back to the days of British control of India. But Abi explains that the guard is just there to fire the gun if an animal attacks – not to actually hit the animal. The noise will scare them off.

We’re talking tigers and leopards and Rhinosaurs here.. and Elephants. There is no roof to our 4×4 jeep – and as our driver says – it’s seen better days. Lots better. Maybe better years. Maybe 30 years…

But we are not here to worry about the luxury of our travel – we’re here to see animals.

As with Safari’s I’ve taken in Africa – you get up early, return for breakfast/brunch, rest for a few hours, then go out again in the evening – and that’s the plan here as well.

Our ‘retreat’ is just around the corner from the entrance to the Park, and at 6:00 there’s no traffic. So we zip out, and are quickly at the entrance.

Our fees have been pre-paid, so we are simply waved in – and Abi directs the driver as to which path to take. The roads in the park (and you aren’t allowed to drive off road like we did in Kenya) are poorly maintained and very rutted – so I have to brace my knee against the metal door frame. It’s actually not uncomfortable. But to take photos – I generally need to stand on the seat – which means taking off my shoes!

Today we spent quite some time taking pictures of monkeys – they aren’t spoiled brats like the ones in Bali who will attack you – these guys are simply adorable. Doing their things in a monkey way. I got some great shots.

We also passed a very touristy Elephant Ride activity – but in the morning haze – the pictures looks awesome.

Abi is a bird fiend – and we stop time and time again for him to identify and get us to see (trust me – the latter was the hard part) – bird after bird after bird.

We wind up actually in Butan. There is a National Park in Butan that shares a long border but only one entrance with the Manas National Park. We pose for pictures at the border, but can’t cross – there’s a lot of paper work involved for non- Indians.

Eventually it’s home for lunch and a break – then back on the road again. This time we score an Elephant family (Mom, Dad, Junior) who pose for pictures for at least an hour. We also take a photo of a lovely butterfly, some other birds, and then end up at sunset in a grassland area with a stunning sky and wonderful trees. I go snap happy!

Then we spot a guard tower (these are all over the park – and free to climb) – and see a herd of Guar headed our way. Yup – they have two kinds of buffalo here in the Manas Park. These giants have white socks on all 4 legs, and smaller horns then the true buffalo of India. Their horns curl out and up and they are generally found in herds.

They move closer and closer until they are just maybe 30 feet away. Our guard is not happy that they are this close – but clearly we have parked the Jeep where they think they should be walking. We take pictures – say good bye to the guard house and the Guar – and head home.

The rutted roads of the Park taken at speed feel like those exercise machines that jiggled you to take off wait – and it’s about 40 minutes in the dark to the park gate. My watch asks if I want to record my outdoor walk!

An early night. Can you believe it.

I’m so happy I can’t stand it.

For dinner I order Onion Pakora – and a Ginger Soup. Abi thinks I’m starving myself – so under pressure I add Butter Chicken and Rice.

We have WAY too much food. The Butter Chicken goes back to the kitchen to keep for dinner the next night – and I gleefully scarf down the best onion Pakoras I’ve ever eaten.

It’s bed time – I’m done. I transfer my pictures to my ipad, plug in my batteries to charge.. and drop.

Signing off – The Soup Lady

*** Stop the Presses ***


OMG – there’s an even MORE beautiful first class lounge!

The Dubai airport is divided into three interconnected buildings – reasonably called A, B, And C. Very creative, right?

Anyway – I was in C – stayed and ate in the first class lounge there. Then following the directions of the lovely host of the lounge – made my slow way to B concourse – and the B version of the first class Emirates Lounge.

It’s about 10 times the size of the one I was in – has a Pizza oven section, a SPA! (You have to be kidding me), Showers, and – this really stopped me – A Sushi Bar with Sushi Chefs. Plus a standard for the Emirates huge buffet with various dishes, and yet again another dessert selection.

All the folks cooking sport tall, tall, tall Toque Blanche – or white hats. And one section of the lounge actually lets you walk past the kitchens – all stainless, all spotless clean at almost midnight – and with the staff cheerfully saying good night to each other.

The lounge also has fountains at the entrance. Huge fountains. Check out my picture – clearly it’s the Soup Lady on the Prowl!

The Soup Lady after 30 hours of travel – in the First Class Lounge Dubai

And here’s something I didn’t mention earlier – there are at least 2 five star hotels IN the airport. I mean the front desks are right off Concourse C and B – and the hotel rooms overlook the Concourse. I’m reminded of those huge 5,000+ passenger cruise ships where some folks pick the rooms looking over the center part of the ship. Who wants to see water when on a cruise ship anyway?

The hotels are designed to look different from the concourse architecture – one featuring Moroccan influenced arches, the other a unique facade. Beautiful. And my walk from C to B was filled with more neon flashing. And another two Duty Free Shops.

You have GOT to be kidding me.

And the ladies bathroom have sections for folks to wash their feet before services. That is definitely not something I’ve ever seen in North America.

This time – I’m really signing off.

Next stop Kalkata, India – which if all goes to plan will consist of us being picked up at the airport and driven to another airport to fly to another city to drive to our first Safari Park!

Yes – I’m exhausted just typing all that.

The Soup Lady

Emirates First Class Lounge in Dubai


I have died and gone to heaven! This place is insanely beautiful – not just the lounge which puts many of the fancy restaurants I’ve enjoyed over the years to shame – but the airport here in Dubai itself is worth seeing to believe!

I’m reminded of the line from the Movie “Crazy Rich Aliens” when they arrive in Singapore and the heroine quips – all JFK has is Salmonella and Despair.

This airport definitely rivals the one in Bali for sheer beauty. There are huge – like 60’ high – Palm trees growing inside the atrium of the Airport Walkways.

And there is the largest Duty-free shop I’ve ever seen. Plus more neon than in some areas of Tokyo. (Those of you who have been to Tokyo know what area I’m talking about…)

So how did a 76 year old traveling grannie – who admittedly tends to travel on the cheap side – end up sitting in this lovely lounge enjoying – get this – a Wagu Burger and fresh French fries?

Let’s start at the beginning – Many years ago we did a ‘cheap’ safari in Africa which emphasized camping outdoors in the game parks. I didn’t see nearly as many animals as I’d have liked – but we made good friends with a couple from Bavaria! And we’ve stayed friends over the years.

Our Bavarian Mates come from Munich – and over the years have teased us with their enthusiasm for wild and crazy travel. They are also very good friends!

So in May 2024 – when they told us they had planned a trip to India (a Safari to see Tigers, Red Pandas, and Rhinoceros) – I asked if I could tag along. Victor wasn’t the least bit interested – but I was totally determined to take on this unique challenge. Consider – at 76 – how many more times will I be willing/able to take on a 36 hr air flight – do homestays in a country that requires a lot of vaccines – and is often described as noisy and crowded and smelly.

And if your next thought is why would I want to – you are in the same mind as my husband! Even the Intrepid Traveler has no interest.

So here I am – part way thru my 36 hour flight to Kolkata. My Bavarian friends are also flying into Dubai from Munich – so we will meet at the gate to the Emirates flight to Kolkata.

Now you know why I’m sitting and waiting – but not why I’m doing it first class.

I have only flown first class once before in my life – and it was under similar circumstances. Neither Victor nor The Intrepid Traveler was coming along, I was joining friends in Bali – and the flight was in the 36 hr range. I figured the difference in price between economy and first class was just $20 an hour – and I was so WORTH it!

The same is true this time. The differential wasn’t that great – not when you thought of it per hour – and because I was going to have 2 long waits in airports (Toronto and Dubai) – Going first class sounded more than reasonable. It sounded like a deal!

The flight from Toronto to Dubai was on Air Canada – and while I enjoyed the service and the lay flat beds – I wouldn’t rate the experience as 5 star. The ‘Maple Leaf Lounge’ in the Toronto airport had mediocre food at best – my ‘dinner’ was Nachos with Pico de Gallo and shredded cold cheddar. It was food. And I ate it. The only desert options were cookies – chocolate chocolate chip and white chocolate with Macadamia nuts. They were my favorite part of the meal.

Food even in first class wasn’t that good either, I’m sorry to report. Waste of calories to be honest. I ate what I had to be sure my stomach wasn’t growling, but it was hardly memorable. Or maybe it was truly memorable in how deplorable it was.

Highlights – the fresh oranges in the fruit basket available near the service area. Those were indeed yummy. And the big TV to watch movies was quite a nice touch. But storage was non-existent, and because I’m so short – reaching the Touch Screen TV to change movies wasn’t easy. At least the headphones they gave us were noise cancelling. That was a nice touch.

On the other hand – the Emirates Lounges here in the Dubai Airport – and I visited two – were awesomely beautiful. The first one was the business class version – described by the hostess as smaller than the similar one in the B terminal. I think I need to check out that one – I thought the one I was in was huge. There was a vast display of food options – cold, hot, room temperature, an ice cream trolley with 8 different flavours and 4 types of cones, an entire desert display, and around a corner – another section with Indian specialities like Samosas.

A full pour it yourself Bar – plus bottles of several different wines were available.

I was just settled into the Business class Lounge when the hostess came up to tell me I was in the wrong place. I should be in the much much nicer First class lounge. And she helped me gather my things and walked me across the concourse.

Wow – This lounge is truly special – and I don’t blame her for saying – it was much nicer. It’s smaller, with a specific dining area – with get this – service! And the food is prepared to order! Wow. In an airport lounge. And the menu goes on and on for several pages. So many choices.

I opted for the Wagu Burger because I know I won’t seeing Beef for the next two weeks. Get it while I can I figure! And it was delicious. A huge portion I couldn’t finish – although I gave it my best effort. Easily the tastiest food I’ve had since leaving home!

Time for desert – there’s a lovely desert selection – and of course Ice cream. I’m having macaroons – and Pistachio Ice Cream.

Then it’s on to my gate, my friends (I hope), and my flight to Kolkata!

Signing off to gather and walk on – The Soup Lady