I’m currently on Kefalonia – one of the larger Greek Islands – smaller than Crete, bigger than Rhodes – and having a blast.
We have German friends, their daughter is having Greek Destination Wedding – and we’re here to celebrate! There are just 20 of us total – a small intimate gathering – and a wonderful opportunity to discover an island I’d never even heard of until the wedding invite arrived!
Kefalonia – I looked it up – is 304 sq miles, with a population density of 55 people per sq mile and a total population (2023) of about 35,000.
In comparison – St. Croix is just 81 sq miles with a population density of 604 people per sq mile and a total population (2023) of about 50,000.
So for practical purposes – Kefalonia should feel a lot less crowded. But that’s not the case. The towns – and I’ve really only explored Argostoli – are small in footprint, but very crowded. Cars everywhere, lots of restaurants, lots of cafes, lots of stores, lots of hotels – the feeling is ‘mobbed’ – and not in a good way. I was just trying to back out of a parking spot – and no one would let me pull out. In fact, I was 1/2 way out and a taxi actually swerved around me to avoid having to stop.
And this is not yet high season. I can’t imagine what it must be like here when the tourists are here in significant numbers.
On St. Croix folk are amazingly polite. They will pause to let you turn right (on St. Croix, we drive on the left – so it’s the right turn that’s a challenge), and if you don’t immediately move when a light turns green – you might get a gentle beep, although most folks will just patiently wait until you notice the light has changed. Not so here in Kefalonia. You Pause – They lean on the horn! On St. Croix – a honk is a hello to a friend, a beep is a reminder to check the light, and waves are common.
Folks on St. Croix smile at you – even if just walking past. Here on Kefalonia – it’s a head down – I’m on a mission walk. That is a very different feeling let me tell you. But I can understand why the women tend to have that ‘I’m ignoring you, please ignore me’ attitude. I like to walk head up and smiling – and I have lost track of the number of men here in Kefalonia who have called out to me. “Looking Good”, “Nice”, “Hey Babe”. For a 75 year old Grand-mother – It’s kinda flattering – but not the general warmth of greetings on St. Croix where folks call out Morning, Morning to everyone that passes by! Here it’s clearly a form of marketing – not just a way to say hello.
I find myself reflecting the surroundings. Here on Kefalonia, I’m more ‘in a rush’, less likely to let folks in when they are stopped waiting, more likely to drive quickly, less likely to admire my surroundings. Interesting, eh?
Another big difference relates to Shade. On St. Croix – beaches have trees – mostly Palm trees, but also Mangroves and soft woods – and there’s shade a plenty. Here on the Beaches of Kefalonia – which I will admit have a lot more sand than the beaches of St. Croix – there is no shade. None. If you need shade, you are going to pay for it – Major Beaches here have ‘Beach Chair and Umbrella Stands’. On St. Croix – the norm is for folks to carry their own chairs – and put them under a Palm Tree for shade. On Kefalonia – Shade costs! 30 Euros for two Beach lounge chairs and a permanent wooden umbrella like structure.
Like St. Croix, Kefalonia has only short buildings – I don’t think there’s a law on building height here, but just as in St. Croix, I have yet to see anything that towers over the church steeples. That’s nice.
But Kefalonia is much much much hillier. In town the houses stack up upon each other, with narrow roads with no sidewalks dividing the living spaces. And you are either going up or down – I’ve seen very little level ground! And it’s steep. You aren’t casually strolling here – you are hiking up or down.
Strikingly, the one level section I’ve seen is the Harbor in Argostoli – and it has a concrete boardwalk – at least 30’ wide – that bend and turns following the contours of the shoreline for several Kilometres. And it has NO SHADE. Given the heat and humidity here – it’s a challenge to enjoy a stroll without getting sunstroke.
Beaches in Kefalonia seem to be surrounded by Rock Walls – conveniently pierced with stone staircases that you can use to access the beach. This creates very dramatic scenery. I have spotted some beaches with easier access points – but they are less dramatic. I admit to loving the towering boulders – but some of the staircases do feel very treacherous. I’ve been grasping hand rails – when they exist – with a feeling of relief and gratitude to the builders.
The weather in Kefalonia is quite different from that on the island of St. Croix. Currently we are getting Sand/Dust from the Sahara Desert, so there is a haze in the sky and the air feels heavy. In comparison, St. Croix has a fairly (8 months of the year) constant breeze from the East across the Atlantic Ocean. Lovely, fresh, and a Blue Blue Sky is the norm. Here in Kefalonia, the breeze is far less consistent. And right now – there’s no breeze to speak of at all. So there are a great deal more insects of the flying small variety (yes – Mosquitos – but also no-see-em and flys). I do long for my lazy meals outdoors on my balcony.. Here we can eat outside – no problem – but fly nets are ubiquitous.
And Kefalonia can be cold. It was quite cool here when we arrived, and I know Greece does experience winter. That’s a big difference from the 85 degrees year round in St. Croix.
Shopping – despite the lower population here on Kefalonia – there are a lot more shops – particularly for home goods, clothing, and ‘beach junk’. This is a tourist destination – so you’d expect shops to cater to tourists – and the number of blown up huge floaties I’ve spotted is considerable. On St. Croix – I have never seen a shop selling only huge floaties – although you can find them – and the gas stations have air pumps to blow them up. There is clearly a different mentality at play.
On the other hand – in Argostoli I spotted a yarn shop – on St. Croix there are places to get yarn – but no designated store. That actually sums up the differences in shopping on the two islands. Despite the smaller population, shops on Kefalonia can and do offer huge inventories often extremely focused. On St. Croix – there are shops with lots of inventory – but it’s all hidden. You need to know where to go – window displays are considered a waste of time and resources.
Because neither my husband nor I speak or read Greek, we’re sensitive to the language on signs. In St. Croix of course – it’s all English. Here it’s first Greek, then perhaps English. This makes navigation a bit challenging if you don’t know where you are going. I ended up having to make several loops to get onto the right road this morning because I didn’t have a co-pilot and our rental car doesn’t link up to my cell phone.
Other differences – generally the coffee is better here in Kefalonia, and I’ve had some very yummy cakes and great tasting bread. Both cakes and bread are hard to find on St. Croix – the lack of AC makes laminating dough a challenge, so shortbread pasty the go-to option. But I’ve also had great meals on St. Croix – so I’d rate the food as very similar. With the edge to Kefalonia for fruits… The fruit salads made fresh daily here have been outstanding.
Bottom line – I’m rather live on St. Croix with is slow, slow pace, relaxed locals, friendly smiles, and casual approach to living, then here on Kefalonia with it’s stifling humidity and more ‘driven’ approach to life. But Kefalonia is well worth a visit… so do drop in!
Signing off to go the wedding… The Soup Lady