Jarash – Amman’s hidden surprise!

I’ve already explained that we are amazed at how lovely Jordan is – there is little rubbish in Amman – a city of close to 5 million in a country of about 11.5 million (as of 2025). The city and capital of Jordan looks quite modern to my eyes, even though some sections are actually quite old.

In our bus rides around – we saw none of the disaster look and feel of sections of Cario – and in the most modern areas – it’s truly up to date. We even visited a grocery store in a mall – both of which would have impressed even the most spoiled of tourists.

Our first stop is a minor one – Heshemite Plaza – a 2000 year old Roman Theatre that seats 6000. On the sides they have added two tiny musums – not at the level of the GEM for sure – but what can best be described as ‘a good effort’. Rather stiff maniquins wearing traditional clothing – and sporting the red and white shemagh – so clearly associated today with Jordan and the Bedouin. The Theatre was rebuilt starting in 1947 (the earthquake around 700 AD did a number on all the Roman buildings). Mostly the orignal blocks were used. Unlike a lot of the Momuments in Egypt – the Roman carved stones were less likely to be reused to make a private house – too big, too heavy, and there are too many hills! This is just a short stop – the real Jewel is coming.

Jerash is truly incredible. Depending on how you translate from the Arabic – signs will say Jerash or Jarash – but it’s super cool either way.

In Roman Times (say 130 AD) – 30,000 people called Jerash home. In comparison – 1 million people called Rome home at the same time. But this city is in the middle of a desert!

It was so well known that the Roman Emperor Hadrian visited in 129-130 AD. This visit was such a big deal at the time that they built a 70 foot high three section Arch for him to use to enter the city. The ruts from the Chariots can still be seen in the stones. Is that cool or what?

But Hadrian was the only famous visitor. More modern visitors include Prince William (visited in 2018) and Catherine, Princess of Wales (who visited as a child in 1980). Even Andrea Bocelli performed here. It is a very special place.

We begin our tour by entering thru the Hadrian Gate, just one of the many entrances to the Ancient City almost all of which have been perserved for the future.

Osama explains that Jerash is the oldest and best perserved Roman City in the world. It is a gigantic momument to the building ability of the ancient Romans, and the fact that it is so well preserved, and that the restorations that have been done have been done so well combine to make it remarkable.

You can – with a bit of imagination – think you are walking in an ancient Roman City. There’s a hypodrome – where they staged horse races. You walk past the hypodrome, past dozen of shops, and thru another gate to the city. Futher in we are told that there is a theatre where they put on plays – and currently gets used for concerts and festiveles.

But first we must cross the Perfectly Oval grand forum – massive by any standards – a gathering place surrounded by Ionic Columns right at the foot of the stair case leading up to the giant Temple to Zeus. Suprisingly most of the columns surrounding the Oval are standing – and even the floor of the oval sports Roman Paving. Just close your eyes – You are in a 130 AD Roman City.

There is a paved Roman Road that leads from the Magnificant Temple of Zeus to the other end of the city with it’s Gate. Victor and I keep comparing this 2000 year old road with the roads in Quebec. Pretty similar condition actually.

The Romans knew how to build to last. I wish Quebec did.

Along the road – lined with massive Corinthium columns on both sides are church after church, and shop after shop. Periodically there are even stone manholes in the center of the road, created to deal with water run-off. Some shops are two floors high – with the supports for the 2nd floor easily seen. Most of the churches have been identified but not reconstruted yet. The columns on either side of the road were definitely connected because they have found and replaced some of those header stones.

Osama tells us that they are slowing down archological digs here to perserve some of the sites for future teams when technology has changed.

They know for sure that the Roman’s had running water – there are the very well preserved remains of a Nymphorum with spouting Dolphin heads. And they have also found a water mill that Osama says might have been used to grind grain.

In the center of the road – at the main part of town – the columns are significantly larger – letting folks know they have reached the Temple of Artemis. It sits right above the Nymphorum.

Rather than climb the steps to the entrance to the Temple – which go past a garden dug in the middle of the staircase – we opt to go on to see the Civic Complex – a huge Theatre with vomitoriums, wonderful cool sections of access points, and of course seating for thousands.

Osama says that’s how they know the number of people living here – by the number of seats! Everyone had to attend the important meetings apparently.

We continue exploring (Osama points out where the baths are – but says they are part of a future project), and then take the high road up past the Entrance to the Temple of Artemis. This is called the Archological Park – filled with stones all labeled as to where they were found – and awaiting someone to figure out how to put the pieces together.

Occasionally we think we hear bagpipe music – but Osama says – nah – that’s the wind.

Hmm – I know bagpipes when I hear them.

Eventually we enter an almost fully reconstructed theatre with excellent acoustics – and sure enough, there’s a Bedouin playing Bagpipes accompanied by a drummer. And he’s pretty good. We sit and enjoy the alfreso concert. At the end, Osama gets him to play the National Athem of Jordan. We all stand of course – and clap madly.

What a comletely magnificant way to end our Egypt and Jordan Adventure.

Quick visit to the ‘Museum’ – highlight is a video talking about the efforts made to reconstruct parts – and then lunch.

These late lunches are tough on me I have to say!

I mostly eat the Inside (pieces of roasted chicken) and the condiments.

Then it’s back to the hotel. Osama explains how we can get to proper grocery store – and we are in a cab heading there within minutes. The hotel staff explain that this driver is one of their regulars – and we should tell him when to pick us up to get us back to the hotel. Deal!

The mall is actually walking distance from the hotel – but there are two hills in the way. Amman is very very hilly!

But it is so modern – it takes our breathe away. If you told me I was in a major US city, I’d have believed. you.

The grocery store was perfect. We slowly cruised up and down every aisle – admiring the packaging, looking at the spices – and generally having a wonderful time. There is a lovely young gentleman manning a section that serves out portions of nuts and spices – we spend quite a bit of time there!

Eventually – it’s time for our ride back to the hotel, and then our Farewell Dinner.

Is anyone surprised that we have to get suitcases out at 1:00 AM. Sheesh.

Tomorrow (Feb 21) is going to be a very long day – turns out to be 28 hours before we are safely in Miami tucked into our bed.

What a wonderful adventure this has been.

Flash Forward – Feb 28 – It is very alarming to hear that Jordan has closed their airspace, and taken down two missles headed their way today. I just hope all our new friends in Jordan are ok – stuck as they are between Isreal and Iran. Not a safe place to be today or probably for quite some time. Not what Jordan needed at all.

Signing off to go back to reading the news about what the US and Iran are up to.

Thanks for reading my Blog. The Soup Lady