Nov 13 – Singalila National Park – Day 12

Last day – we NEED a Red Panda!

And we wake to the good news – the spotters have one and we need to go NOW!

This time I’m determined to brave the Bamboo Forest.. but first I must brave the ride up the Mountain. This just doesn’t get easier.

To comfort me – Rio promises that tomorrow – our travel day – will feature a visit to a Tibetan Monastery in Nepal – and the best Resturant in Darjeeling.

Deal!

Final the jeeps stop at the closest trail into the Red Panda’s location – and we all jump (well – I slowly slide) out of the jeep and start the climb. The spotters have been holding the Panda in his tree – it’s a juvenile- not the same one spotted two days ago – but in the same location.

I’m the tail of the line – Andrea is moving at full speed, with Helmut close behind her but I’m just trying not to hurt myself.

I have on my good Utah ‘boot’s’ with their deep rubber cut soles, and a hiking stick for my right hand. I need to be sure that my right knee doesn’t take any twisting.

Mingmar is sticking to me like glue. We hike past the point that I ‘quit’ last time – and follow the narrow track (about 6” wide – not a typo – 6 inches wide) into the bamboo forest.

As before – the bamboo is so dense here that you can’t see more than a few feet ahead – but I’ll be honest – my view is my FEET! I put each foot down carefully, making sure I’m steady on that foot before shifting to the next.

The path is up and down small but steep terrain. Maybe 5 steps down, two steps across a muddy patch, then 5 steps up. 2 steps across the top of the ridge, then 5 steps down. Repeat.

I don’t think I’m scared – but my heart rate would disagree with that. I’m going slowly – but super carefully – and my heart rate is going up and up. It’s mostly the adrenaline and the Altitude combined to fuel my increasing heart rate, not really the exercise.

We are suddenly very close to the Panda sighting – and we stop to decide where everyone else is standing. The team with me starts whistling – and we hear whistles coming back at us.

There’s one problem – At least for me. I can’t tell where the returning whistles are coming from!

Apparently Mingmar is also having trouble deciding – since he tells me NOT TO MOVE – and goes in first one direction, and then the other.

I am most definitely not moving.

If I got lost – I don’t know how to whistle!

Suddenly the team with Andrea and Helmut appears. The Panda has changed trees – he came down the tree, ran within inches of Helmut (there are BIG animals – so think a large large large dog with a really long tail) and then disappeared.

The decision is to re-group and wait to see if the trackers can spot the new location.

So we wait. I’m actually glad – I need to get my heart rate back down.. It’s at about 148 BPM – and I know if I just stop and do my Yoga breathing – I’ll be fine. But I have to stop.

We stand quietly in the forest – listening and occasionally whispering as Helmut and Andrea fill me in on what happened. Apparently they spotted the Red Panda and started taking pictures when it ran down the tree and within inches of Helmut to disappear into the forest.

Eventually my heart rate goes back to normal (under 100 BPM), and the trackers return. Bad news – they can’t find him. Imagine it – he’s huge, he’s red, and you can’t see him!

Rio explains that the Panda will curl into a ball in the fork of a tree hidden by the moss and ferns – and they are invisible.

Back to plan B

While Andrea and Helmut are disappointed – I’m so thrilled I made the climb I can’t stand it! And Rio comments on how well I did – he actually says – you must have done a lot of climbing in the past. You are a BadAss!

Hee, Hee – I’m definitely not sharing my heart rate with him… I’ll just say thank you – and get myself out of the forest.

I think Mingmar wanted me to need more help!

We get back to the jeeps – and the decision is to drive to the top of the Mountain – because it’s there – and because we’re going to eat Lunch on the top of the Mountain.

If I thought the road was curvy and rough before – I under estimated the effect weather has on these roads. The road to this point was smooth as a baby’s bottom in comparison to what we are now bouncing along on!

We are going from 8,000 feet to 10,000 feet. And the road is basically large unfinished stones that have been laid down and filled in with mud. Even walking on the road would be a challenge – driving it in 4×4 Jeeps is beyond exciting.

Since it’s getting towards noon – the mist has rolled in – and there is nothing to see on the left or the right. Sheer cliffs drop into the mist on both sides as we climb. There are trekking tracks crossing the path (I’m not calling this a road – and neither would you).

Serious Trekkers routinely make this climb – and we pass several small groups on our way up, and up, and up. There are at least three small clusters of buildings – HomeStays, mini-stores, and small square buildings labeled ‘Toilet’ along the route as well.

I peaked into one of the Toilets – they are squat toilets of ceramic- but I suspect that underneath is a Pit. I’ll bet they just move the ‘toilet’s’ each season.

Occasionally there are religious points – recognizable by the 5 color flags draped in banners everywhere – Red for Fire, Blue for Water, White for Purity, Yellow for Sun, Green for Earth. Rio explains that when a Tibetan (Hindu) wants a special favour they will buy a series of these banners and hang them in a spiritual spot. Some are very old, most are newer. But the locations are specific – points of power I’m willing to bet.

We continue up eventually stopping at the Mount Everest view point – but the mist is too thick to see the Mountain. We do however see Yaks.

At the top of the top there is another Military Encampment – and again we must check-in. Then we wander around and eventually go inside to eat Lunch. Guess what’s on the menu…

Did you guess Rice and Chicken! Good for you!

I get a Fanta – my stomach is roiling from the adrenaline of the climb, the twisting of the road, and the altitude. Never has ANYTHING tasted so good.

We are blessed with an occasional clearing moment – but basically the sky is white. In the photographs it looks as if we are standing in front of a Photographers Backdrop – it’s so evenly colored and smooth. Check out today’s photo.. taken at 10,000 feet and looking towards Mount Everest – notable in it’s NOT THERE!

It took 1.5 hours to make the climb. It will take us 3 hours to get down.

I hug Helmut and Andrea – and tell them that words simply can’t describe how happy I am to have been able to do this.

I don’t care that I’m cold, I don’t care that I didn’t see a Red Panda, I don’t care (much) that I didn’t get to see Mount Everest – I have challenged myself and done what I wanted to do!

I am so so so happy.

I’m even willing to use the squat toilet before we start the ride back down!

Since this is our last trip into the Park – we need to stop at each of the Check-points to a) check out for today, and b) check-out completely. At one of the check-points – there’s no solider on duty. So Rio has to go to camp and actually call out. Eventually a solider appears – and apparently understands that we are foreigners checking out.

Back at the ‘low’ altitude of 8,000 feet – we drive thru town – and I spot a chicken butcher. He’s got a whole chicken on a chopping block – and he’s using a Machete to cut it up!

Well – that explains all the bones and random appearing pieces.

Tonight Andrea and Helmut go out and spot a Flying Squirrel. He’s huge – and he does FLY! Well – not fly exactly – kinda spread his legs and arms and coast downward – but it’s very cool.

I’m warming up on my heated mattress pad.. glad to be warm again.

For dinner – Abi makes Biryani for us – he’s the cook in his family – with Chicken of course. It’s delicious. And there’s lovely Sauces to go with it.

We chat, compare photos, and basically say good bye. Tomorrow Abi will leave early for the long drive to Bagdogra Airport, and we will head to Darjeeling. But before we part – we want to be sure to exchange contact information so that we can remain friends.

Eventually it’s not only past my bedtime – it’s past everyone else’s too – and we head downstairs to our beds.

Tomorrow will again be a long day!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

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