After yesterday’s harrowing journey – getting woken up to the sounds of a serious dog fight – apparently right outside my window – doesn’t surprise me.

We left an absolutely fabulous HomeStay in Kathoni, driven 8 hours the last 2 of which can best be described as nauseating – and I’m woken to a Dog fight. Just figures.

But not one to not give places a chance – I shiver my way out of bed and say a quick mental thank goodness to our host who has equipped every bed with an electric mattress warmer that works a treat!

First things first – I need a place to do my Yoga – and my room is way too small. I go up stairs to the kitchen/dining area and find our host – Roi. He says – use the prayer room.

Hmm – ok I guess. Yoga is very meditative – and our hosts are Tibetan – so it works.

The prayer room is just the right size with a nice rug on the floor. I put down my Yoga Mat and I’m facing a wall sized Tibetan Shrine. There are 3 large ‘goddess’ statues plus several smaller ones. 6 beautiful metal cups are carefully placed in front of the shrine, and there is an incense burner.

The room is calm and peaceful – perfect for Yoga!

When I’m done – I cross the hall to the dining area to join Helmut and Andrea for Breakfast. It’s a bit of learning experience – the 5 gals that work in the open kitchen are determined to please us – and start by throwing at us all the food they think we might want.

We’re talking Indian Breakfast options like puffed rice that is yesterdays rice – re-fried, cereals, breads the like of which I’ve never seen, two types of juice – Guava and Orange today – Porridge, eggs, jam, honey, coffee, tea, chicken sausages… They basically fill the table and watch what we eat.

Problem – I’m still feeling a bit like I spent too long on a very rough, very curvy road – and despite a decent sleep – eating just isn’t working right now.

But I need to take my Malaria Pills – and experience has shown that doing that on an empty stomach is a recipe for disaster – so I pick thru the bounty trying for bland as possible. I succeed and swallow the pills.

Now it’s time to start our first Safari into the Singalila National Park.

We are currently at about 4000 feet (up from sea level just yesterday), and the Park itself starts at about 7000 feet and extends up to over 9000 feet. This is pretty high Altitude – and I have had Altitude issues in the past – but I know now to take it easy on the first day for fear of Collapsing.

We are assigned our ‘jeeps’ for the 4 days we’ll be doing safari’s here. I’m the only guest in my jeep – there’s also the driver – Schwan – the owner and boss of the team – Roi, and my personal assistant – Mingwa

Apparently it’s been determined that I’m quite fragile – and will need a personal porter. Well, I’m not sending Mingwa home. He’s young (23) and sweet – and is willing to carry my camera. Since I figure I’ll need both hands free to hike into the Bamboo Forests to see the Red Panda – I’m fine with that.

Helmut and Andrea are in a 2nd jeep with a driver and the 2nd in command – Sergio. In a 3rd jeep are a British Couple (he 78 and in pretty decent shape – she’s a bit younger but quite ill. I think this is a bucket trip for them).

We head out – and immediately get stopped – the 100 K Himalayan Challenge Run is happening – and they are going thru our little village! There folks are insane – they are going to RUN (ok – not all run, some will end up stumbling) up 2000 Vertical feet on a road that makes a roller coaster look like a super highway. OMG.

When the police deem it safe, we pull out and head up following the same (and only) road that the runners are using. As we pass each group I cheer and wave – because I remember what if felt like when I did 5 Ks on flat ground… hearing someone cheer for you is deeply motivating and highly personal, even if you don’t know them.

Nothing in all the write-ups I read mentioned the road you must take to get to the area where the Red Panda’s are found.

If you go to MontrealMadame.com – you’ll see a map of this area – we’re driving from Manebhanjyang to the area between Gairibus and Batasi.

On the map it looks so so short – but it’s 1.5 hours of the narrowest, steepest, pot-holed filled road I’ve ever seen.

The drivers are specially trained – and there are only 108 jeeps in Manebhaniyang with about 130 drivers available. Naturally some are better than others – and they all know each other! Most grew up together – so it isn’t a surprise when more often than not our driver will roll down his window and say hi to the driver headed the other way.

The road actually looks pretty good for the first 100 yards maybe.. then you hit the first 170 degree turn – and you realize – wow – this road is really really curvy.

The ‘straight’ parts last about twice as long as the curves – and you literally corkscrew your way up one Mountain and then down and up another one even higher, then down.. repeat and repeat and repeat.

To add interest – along the way is a Tibetan Monastery, several small villages, and 4 military check-points. These are spaced fairly evenly along the road and maned by soldiers who take their job seriously.

We are blest with a clear clear sky – and the views are simply amazing! The sun is at the exactly right angle to allow the layers of Mountain Greenery to glow in different shades of Green and Blue – Culminating in a lovely view of the White Capped “Sleeping Buddha” – the tallest mountain in India. Wow.

Since this is our first trip up the road – our passports are verified and a copy kept for their records, our guide has to verify for us – and the soldiers peek into the jeep to be assured that the folks the guide has said are inside are in fact inside.

The first check-point is the most serious – and all the soldiers are armed and dressed in camouflage from head to toes. Once you’ve completed the check-in – they do smile and wave you on.

Why the security? We are actually driving right along the Napel/India border.

Want to know what happens next? Check out Part 2 of Nov 10.