PART Two – aka continuing…

Why the security? We are actually driving right along the Napel/India border. As in – one side of the road is Napel and the other side is India. There are signs everywhere that explain that folks who are NOT citizens of India or Napel can not cross the border without an appropriate Visa.

This is a lot harder to avoid than it sounds by the way. All the homestays, all the tea shops, and the tiny tiny stores are on the left side of the road (Napel) because the right side (India) is basically a vertical drop!

The only flat portions on the right side have been ‘claimed’ by the India Military Border Patrol as secure military encampments. The MBP are mainly responsible for catching smugglers – but they also keep track of who comes into these mountains.

Rio stops at the first check-point, and since this is our first trip in – we must fill in forms and sign. Think registering for a hotel with armed security and you have the picture.

On tiny issue – I had sent our amazing Travel Agent – Cristina – both my US and Canadian Passport. But when I filled in the India Visa – it required me to use as my country my place of Residence. So I used my Canadian Passport. When I pointed this out to Rio – his comment – don’t worry – they don’t know that Canada and US aren’t the same place.

Ok then… In any case – I signed, and they seemed happy. At least they waved us thru.

We continue the bumpy curvy hilly drive up and up and up – there are 3 more check-points – again requiring a copy of my passport and Visa – again not worrying about the US/Canadian thing – and finally we reach the Singalila Park Entrance.

A quick comment on Jeeps. Wow. I never appreciated those adds where they show the Jeeps climbing up rocks – but I do now. We are taking almost vertical 170 degree turns every few seconds – What the jeeps lack in cushy comfort they more than make-up in their ability to get up this road.

Turns out that there are only 140 guys certified to drive this road.. No surprise there. Rio says he’s won’t do it – he had a crash. Only the jeep was hurt – but he lost his confidence. And trust me – you need nerves of steel and incredible reflexes to do this kind of driving – on the left, with a gear shift, on a one lane road with 170 degree turns and traffic in both directions.

Our driver explains that there are rules… You must honk before every blind corner (that’s like 90% of them), you must judge who of the passing jeeps has the better place to pull over enough to let the other squeeze past – and you have to be polite.

I’m basically gasping at every turn, and after trying the left hand seat for one drive – have stuck to the inside seats! The sheer drops terrify me.

We finally get to one of the two ‘major’ villages – Gairibus. On the India side is a large military encampment – on the Napel side are two ‘tea shops’, a few homes and up a rocky short road – a ‘Homestay’ that features proper seat-upon toilets! Heaven. Beyond that we’re told not to wonder as we’ve already strayed into Napel.

After our break – we continue on to the next ‘major’ village – Batasi – and from there we are going to walk to a frequent Red Panda Sighting location. I’m game, although I might be sorry later. The hike is almost 2 Km round trip – and we’re following an old Jeep track that has been long abandoned. There are muddy sections and while the path is relatively flat – it’s also headed down hill! We descend about 750 ft in vertical (which we’ll have to climb back up), and get to the ‘we see Panda’s’ here location. Nope.

The spotters check around – Nope. Panda are all curled up in trees – impossible to spot.

We hike back up – get back in our Jeeps, and head back to Gairibus.

We are going to have to try again another day – the clouds have rolled in, our view is gone, and it’s gotten cold.

Lunch is served at the HomeStay with that lovely toilet – it’s a typical Indian repas – so lots and lots of dishes served separately so you mix and match in your rice. There’s what we will discover is mystery Chicken with bones – lots of bones, several different sauces, lots of Rice – and Bottled water.

Helmut gleefully eats his share, and then finishes off what is left on my plate. This is going to be a repeating pattern. They simply won’t let me ‘help my self’ – so there’s always a lot more than I can consume. Helmut is very happy to help!

With no chance to see the Red Pandas – we head back down the Mountain.

It’s 1.5 hr up, and 1.5 hr down – that’s a 3 hour round trip.. which we will be repeating daily trying to find the elusive Red Pandas.

Once back at our HomeStay – we’re told that dinner is at 7:00 – and we can rest. I go back to my room, turn on my Mattress heat to max – and try to warm up. I didn’t bring the right gear – that’s obvious. But tomorrow I’m definitely putting on more layers.

Dinner is lovely – again traditional India – starting with a Ginger Soup, then the main course which is more Chicken with bones in a delicious sauce, vegetables, sliced cucumbers and onions (yum), Dal, and some pickles that Abi warns us are a bit spicy. Helmut loves them.

Dinner done – it’s early to bed. Tomorrow we’re getting an earlier start in hopes of getting up the Mountains early enough to spot those Red Pandas.

I sure hope we do!

Signing off – The Soup Lady

After yesterday’s harrowing journey – getting woken up to the sounds of a serious dog fight – apparently right outside my window – doesn’t surprise me.

We left an absolutely fabulous HomeStay in Kathoni, driven 8 hours the last 2 of which can best be described as nauseating – and I’m woken to a Dog fight. Just figures.

But not one to not give places a chance – I shiver my way out of bed and say a quick mental thank goodness to our host who has equipped every bed with an electric mattress warmer that works a treat!

First things first – I need a place to do my Yoga – and my room is way too small. I go up stairs to the kitchen/dining area and find our host – Roi. He says – use the prayer room.

Hmm – ok I guess. Yoga is very meditative – and our hosts are Tibetan – so it works.

The prayer room is just the right size with a nice rug on the floor. I put down my Yoga Mat and I’m facing a wall sized Tibetan Shrine. There are 3 large ‘goddess’ statues plus several smaller ones. 6 beautiful metal cups are carefully placed in front of the shrine, and there is an incense burner.

The room is calm and peaceful – perfect for Yoga!

When I’m done – I cross the hall to the dining area to join Helmut and Andrea for Breakfast. It’s a bit of learning experience – the 5 gals that work in the open kitchen are determined to please us – and start by throwing at us all the food they think we might want.

We’re talking Indian Breakfast options like puffed rice that is yesterdays rice – re-fried, cereals, breads the like of which I’ve never seen, two types of juice – Guava and Orange today – Porridge, eggs, jam, honey, coffee, tea, chicken sausages… They basically fill the table and watch what we eat.

Problem – I’m still feeling a bit like I spent too long on a very rough, very curvy road – and despite a decent sleep – eating just isn’t working right now.

But I need to take my Malaria Pills – and experience has shown that doing that on an empty stomach is a recipe for disaster – so I pick thru the bounty trying for bland as possible. I succeed and swallow the pills.

Now it’s time to start our first Safari into the Singalila National Park.

We are currently at about 4000 feet (up from sea level just yesterday), and the Park itself starts at about 7000 feet and extends up to over 9000 feet. This is pretty high Altitude – and I have had Altitude issues in the past – but I know now to take it easy on the first day for fear of Collapsing.

We are assigned our ‘jeeps’ for the 4 days we’ll be doing safari’s here. I’m the only guest in my jeep – there’s also the driver – Schwan – the owner and boss of the team – Roi, and my personal assistant – Mingwa

Apparently it’s been determined that I’m quite fragile – and will need a personal porter. Well, I’m not sending Mingwa home. He’s young (23) and sweet – and is willing to carry my camera. Since I figure I’ll need both hands free to hike into the Bamboo Forests to see the Red Panda – I’m fine with that.

Helmut and Andrea are in a 2nd jeep with a driver and the 2nd in command – Sergio. In a 3rd jeep are a British Couple (he 78 and in pretty decent shape – she’s a bit younger but quite ill. I think this is a bucket trip for them).

We head out – and immediately get stopped – the 100 K Himalayan Challenge Run is happening – and they are going thru our little village! There folks are insane – they are going to RUN (ok – not all run, some will end up stumbling) up 2000 Vertical feet on a road that makes a roller coaster look like a super highway. OMG.

When the police deem it safe, we pull out and head up following the same (and only) road that the runners are using. As we pass each group I cheer and wave – because I remember what if felt like when I did 5 Ks on flat ground… hearing someone cheer for you is deeply motivating and highly personal, even if you don’t know them.

Nothing in all the write-ups I read mentioned the road you must take to get to the area where the Red Panda’s are found.

If you go to MontrealMadame.com – you’ll see a map of this area – we’re driving from Manebhanjyang to the area between Gairibus and Batasi.

On the map it looks so so short – but it’s 1.5 hours of the narrowest, steepest, pot-holed filled road I’ve ever seen.

The drivers are specially trained – and there are only 108 jeeps in Manebhaniyang with about 130 drivers available. Naturally some are better than others – and they all know each other! Most grew up together – so it isn’t a surprise when more often than not our driver will roll down his window and say hi to the driver headed the other way.

The road actually looks pretty good for the first 100 yards maybe.. then you hit the first 170 degree turn – and you realize – wow – this road is really really curvy.

The ‘straight’ parts last about twice as long as the curves – and you literally corkscrew your way up one Mountain and then down and up another one even higher, then down.. repeat and repeat and repeat.

To add interest – along the way is a Tibetan Monastery, several small villages, and 4 military check-points. These are spaced fairly evenly along the road and maned by soldiers who take their job seriously.

We are blest with a clear clear sky – and the views are simply amazing! The sun is at the exactly right angle to allow the layers of Mountain Greenery to glow in different shades of Green and Blue – Culminating in a lovely view of the White Capped “Sleeping Buddha” – the tallest mountain in India. Wow.

Since this is our first trip up the road – our passports are verified and a copy kept for their records, our guide has to verify for us – and the soldiers peek into the jeep to be assured that the folks the guide has said are inside are in fact inside.

The first check-point is the most serious – and all the soldiers are armed and dressed in camouflage from head to toes. Once you’ve completed the check-in – they do smile and wave you on.

Why the security? We are actually driving right along the Napel/India border.

Want to know what happens next? Check out Part 2 of Nov 10.