Tigers, Rhinos, Elephants and Buffalo – Oh My!

Our day starts early – glorious sunrise, lovely weather, a quick cup of coffee and some homemade cake to get our engines going! Today is our first day at Kaziranga National Park.

We climb aboard Abi’s lovely and extremely comfortable car and head out to the Park. We starting with the East Entrance – and since the roads are still cut off from the recent flooding (happens every year) – each entrance is a one road Round Trip. That’s quite different from Manas – which did have one main road – but dozens of side roads allowed us to dodge crowds. This won’t happen at Kaziranga – so our only defence are early starts and late finishes..

Unlike Manas – which has a relaxed approach to leaving the Park on time – Kaziranga is so busy that it has strict rules. And guides and drivers found guilty of breaking the timing rules face huge fines – and a week’s banishment from the park! Given that we left Mangas after 5:00 every night – I’m concerned that we will run afoul of the rules here. The Park also closes from noon to 2 – to give the animals a chance to rest I think.

Ok – early start – we want to hit the gate at opening time – 7:30.

From our HomeStay to the Park East Entrance is a short 15 minute ride – but we wind our way thru several Tea People of Assme villages. The Tea People originally came to this part of India 150 years ago to work the tea fields – and they stayed. Just recently – they have actually been recognized as a unique community within Assme.

And they are unique. They have a unique way of dancing, several unique festivals – particularly ones that celebrate water – and their homes are also unique. They live on flood plains – every year they will be flooded.

This isn’t just a bad thing – the yearly floods leave slit that fertilizes their fields – and in addition to picking tea (mostly women) – they grow Rice – lots of Rice. And they are proud of their homes and their status as a unique community.

Our host is particularly concerned with introducing his guests to the villagers around him – his home is the hunting lodge of his grand-father, and most of the people he employs are members of the Tea People. He explained to us that this is on purpose – education isn’t a huge priority – and that means adults find it challenging to get jobs outside of low level agriculture. He is offering on the job training in Hospitality – not to mention living wage salaries.

I love our drive thru the waking up villages – women are sweeping the front drives, doing laundry the old fashioned way – as I can see from the clothes lines – and the men are working in the Rice Fields, setting up huge fishing nets that get filled as the tide goes in or working on their homes. It’s a busy place – but everyone is pleased to smile and wave as we drive by.

Soon enough we are at the East Entrance – and we switch from Abi’s car to a 4×4 jeep. Like the jeeps in Manas – there is a row for the driver and the armed security guard (these are wild animals), then two rows for guests. Abi and I share the middle road, Helmut and Andrea are in the back.

We are the only jeep we see! Perfect. We slowly bump our way into the park – immediately finding ourselves face to face with several Indian Buffalo – huge animals that sport horns that are at least 5 feet wide from tip to tip. Glorious photo opportunities abound and I’m very happy.

The animals are close enough to us that I have no issues with focus – and are calm enough to pose for picture after picture.

Abi stops the driver at a pile of brown – well – shit. It’s Rhino scat – recognizable by its ground up look and lighter color than Elephant dung. It turns out that Rhinos like to have bathroom spots – and they will return to that spot as often as they can.

Abi explains that this used to make it easier for the poachers – all they had to do was find a dung pile and hang around. Now the Indian Government and the Animal Agencies have drastically reduced the amount of poaching – so the Rhinos can go to the bathroom in peace. I definitely share that pain…

We also see Sus scrofa or Wild Pigs. These only faintly resemble pigs from North America. These pigs have long noses, oblong bodies, short legs – and no snout. We see at least one family – Mom, Dad, and a few younger ones – checking out the grasses right in front of a pair of grazing Buffalo. Lovely.

Carefully placed and well maintained towers afford higher view points over the marsh lands that border the park between India and Butan. We spot herds of deer grazing – and as expected – Abi is happy to point out bird after bird. My camera is only able to get out of focus shots of the birds – but it is fun to know you’ve seen them.

I do get a decent shot of a Roller – that’s a small but magnificent bird that has bright blue wings that shine when it flies!

The Rhinos of India have only one horn – hence the marketing slogan – One Horn Nation. And Kaziranga has over 1000 Rhinos. Here at the Eastern Entrance the Rhinos are relaxed, easy to spot and fun to photograph. I’m loving it.

We don’t manage a close up encounter like we had at Manas – but there are still lots of Rhino photos to take! Such fun.

There’s the ruins of a wooden bridge we must drive around – and I love my photo looking thru the remaining wooden structure to the water and wilderness beyond. The lighting is definitely with us this morning.

The Tiger and Jaguar Gods however – are not. We don’t spot a Tiger – or even hear birds and deer calling out their ‘Tiger Alarm’ calls. Oh well – we have 4 more Safari’s here – lots of chances.

Towards the end of our drive – I spot a Dragon in the water! It’s actually a log – but it really looks exactly like a dragon in the water – complete with fire coming out of its mouth. It makes for a Great photo!

We also run into a gal from Mumbai who is on her own, touring with just a driver. She’s clearly a birder judging by her camera, and her set-up. The middle seat of her jeep has been removed, and there’s a mattress and several bean bags arranged for long waits for just the right bird to appear. We exchange hellos – and continue on our ways.

It’s getting on to noon – and we must exit the park. So we drive out – back thru the villages and to our lovely HomeStay. The first of several Great meals and head off for our afternoon adventure.

This time we’re going to hit the Central Entrance to Kaziranga National Park – and we’ve been warned by other folks – as well as by our host and by Abi – that it is going to be a lot more crowded.

It’s about a 30 minute drive to the Central Entrance – thru the animal crossing zones – so the ride is bumpy! Not as bad as inside the park where I promise you – I feel like I’m on a 1970’s weight loss machine -but bad enough.

We arrive at the entrance to discover a huge line-up of jeeps filled with tourists – mostly Indian’s – not ‘foreigners’ like us – waiting for the gates to open.

I’m going to guess that there were probably about 100 jeeps waiting at 2:00 – and another couple hundred or so drove in later. Groups of giggling school kids on day trips to the National Park, family groups packed 5 and 6 into a jeep that comfortably sits just 4 with at least one screaming kid, and a much smaller sub-set of serious folks with serious drivers.

It’s a mad-house – and it’s not going to be better inside the park because there is just one main road with only two short spur roads. If you stop to catch a shot you can expect at least 4 jeeps to try to squeeze by. And if you don’t leave passing room – and they must wait behind you – they will leave their engines running. On the wooden bridges that abound this makes for enough vibration to be sure to ruin most shots.

But this is the best place to see Tigers. We are going to have to make the best of it.

But despite Abi’s best efforts – again we are Tiger disappointed. And with so much noise – the animals seem more timid – and tend to stay further away from the road.

Tomorrow is another day.

So it’s home (sleeping policeman yet again), a great dinner, lovely conversation with our host who takes us on a tour of ‘The Big House” – and then it’s bed time.

Signing off with hopes of tiger sightings tomorrow…

The Soup Lady